Public squares can range from humble settings accompanied by a church to vast esplanades surrounded by eye-catching architecture. Each, however, possesses a distinctive allure that welcomes any visitor.

The travel community’s verdict

In order to discover Spain’s most appealing town square, we consult those inquiring minds who routinely explore every corner of Spain and are willing to share their preferences.

Voters’ responses showcase Spain’s greatest public squares, those urban spaces steeped in history and whose unparalleled robustness continue to dazzle. Whilst it may be impossible to enumerate all of Spain’s beautiful town squares, it is worthwhile taking a look at our readers’ top choices.

Spain’s most prominent town squares

The candidates for Spain’s most stunning town square all share a sense of monumental grandeur, according to our community. Likewise, the top five ranking kicks off with the exceptional Plaza Mayor of Madrid, a metropolitan expanse imparting timeless elegance in the heart of Spain’s capital.

The fourth-highest ranked public square is the striking Obradoiro Square in Santiago de Compostela. The presence of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the countless pilgrims roaming its expanse, many of whom walk hundreds of kilometres to reach, make this legendary square an awe-inspiring sight.

Third place in the ranking belongs to the magnificent Plaza del Pilar in Zaragoza. Not only is it western Europe’s largest pedestrian town square, it also boasts the Aragonese capital’s two cathedrals, the formidable Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Pilar and the Cathedral of the Savior.

The runner-up in the ranking possesses a little piece from every part of Spain, as one reader commented. This can only be Seville’s aptly named Plaza de España, located next to María Luisa Park. The square is one of Seville’s signature landmarks, a place to marvel at the interplay of light, water and architecture.

The undisputed winner for Spain’s most breathtaking town square

España Fascinante’s readers clearly mark out Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor as Spain’s most beautiful town square. Readers commented on the square’s extraordinary golden-coloured stonework, especially at sunset, as well as the majestic harmony of its architecture.

Beyond its spectacular Baroque allure, this porticoed town square is the heart of a bustling city where traditional musicians, known as Tunos, perform for wandering crowds made up of local residents, international university students, and astonished tourists. Undoubtedly one of Salamanca’s wonders, this Plaza Mayor is indeed one of Spain’s iconic landmarks. 

You can also read this article in Spanish.

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Spain harbours a priceless Roman heritage that continues to astonish today for its sheer magnitude and excellent state of conservation. The monuments handed down by Rome lay bare Spain’s essential role for the empire while reflecting Rome’s architectural mastery and sophisticated sense of civic planning.

Spain’s current topography integrates remnants of Roman roads, bridges, walls, theatres and temples, divulging the deep footprint bestowed by Rome on the peninsula. Rome’s civic works narrate the trade and civic development the empire established and whose remains permit a peek into the daily life of these ancient cities.

The travelling community’s verdict

The vestiges of the Roman Empire appeal not only to scholars and history enthusiasts, but also to those seeking affinity with the past and wishing to understand the culture that shaped the identity of a country. In order to discover Spain’s most preeminent Roman monument, we asked these very enthusiasts for their insights.

The results clearly demonstrate that Spain is home to a magnificent Roman heritage that unites the present day to one of antiquity’s most influential civilisations. So let’s discover which Roman monuments conquer the most hearts and minds.

Some Roman monuments that continue to dazzle

Spain’s exceptional Roman legacy is immediately apparent with the fifth-place winner, the Tower of Hercules. This 59 metre-tall structure on the Galician coast is the oldest still-working Roman lighthouse in the world and continues today to be an astounding landmark.

Fourth place is another recordholder located in Galicia. The Roman Wall of Lugo not only enthrals for its sheer size, but for it being the best conserved of its kind, with its entire perimeter perfectly visible.

Leaving Galicia, we travel to Extremadura Province, where the bronze and silver medal winners of this ranking are located. The third-place winner is the breathtaking bridge at Alcántara, noted for being the tallest Roman bridge in the world. Second place belongs to the indelible Roman Theatre of Mérida, whose stage is still used for performances to this day.

Spain’s most striking Roman monument

The Aqueduct of Segovia is nothing short of extraordinary according to the voters. Admiration and awe for this colossal civil work are understandable, considering the aqueduct was erected without a drop of mortar and continues to stand nearly two millennia later.

The aqueduct long gracing Segovia’s centre is the paragon of Rome’s aspirations for its grand civil engineering works. An ideal that includes practicality, longevity, harmony, and no less importantly, a majestic character manifesting the grandeur of the Roman Empire.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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The wonders of Burgos to experience at least once in life

Clunia, Burgos’ Roman city

We all have heard of Mérida’s imposing and majestic Roman Theatre. A Roman city that was even more important than the popular Emerita Augusta sits only 90 kilometres from Burgos’ capital: Cunia. This Roman settlement, once inhabited by the Celtic tribe Arevaci, is one of the most important in Spain. Remains of civil buildings, such as public baths, the forum, and the theatre, have been recovered, but so has domestic architecture, composed of mosaics and furniture of great value. To visit Clunia is to travel back in time to explore it and learn from it. Both adults and children will enjoy the museumisation of this archaeological settlement of great historical value.

Lerma, a Site of Cultural Interest

40 kilometres from the city of Burgos sits Lerma, a municipality that is a Bien de Interés Cultural (Site of Cultural Interest) and a Conjunto histórico (Historical Complex). Its majestic collegiate church of San Pedro can be seen from the road and reminds of a cathedral. There are diverse convents in Lerma thanks to the place’s importance for monastic orders during the Middle Ages. This place near Burgos is perfect to discover one of the most beautiful villages in Spain with family or a single partner.

Salas de los Infantes, perfect for the whole family

Everybody knows that Burgos is the province with one of the most important archaeological sites in the country: Atapuerca. However, Salas de los Infantes, a municipality that sits only 56 kilometres from the capital, also has great historical value. This village sits in a very important paleontological area, so it has a Museo de los Dinosaurios (Dinosaur Museum). This institution organises plenty of activities for children to discover the history of dinosaurs in the Peninsula, so this plan in Burgos is perfect for the whole family. There are many other examples of historical and architectural heritage that deserve a visit, such as the churches of Santa María and Santa Cecilia.

Routes and nature in the province of Burgos

The legendary Camino del Cid

This long path begins or ends in Burgos. It is based on the figure of Rodrigo Díaz, El Cid, as the famous literary work El Cantar de mio Cid tells. Although it is more than 2000 km, hiking and nature lovers will enjoy discovering the places where this famous Castilian hero is believed to have been. It can be completed by bicycle or motorcycle too and passes by emblematic places such as Vivar del Cid and Covarrubias, 10 and 40 kilometres from the capital, respectively. Other of the best ways to appreciate Burgos and explore its smaller surrounding villages and natural areas is by booking private transfers. You can easily create your itinerary, including destinations such as Lerma and the Mena Valley, without being tied to public transport schedules.

The Mena Valley, an oasis of calm and greenery

Those looking for calm and disconnection will find it in the Mena Valley. This area is composed of numerous municipalities and sits 100 kilometres away from the capital as an oasis in the province of Burgos. It is perfect for staying in a country hotel with family, a partner, or solo. Besides, it offers possibilities for every taste: hiking routes, outdoor sports, natural and architectural monuments…

In conclusion, many wonders to cater to every taste await in the province of Burgos. Each corner of this region is unique, and no matter where you look, you will find its three main pillars: its heritage, its nature, and the kindness of its people. Even if you are just passing by Burgos, you should stop and enjoy everything it has to offer.

The gastronomy of Burgos, a must to enjoy the province

Burgos is well known for its comforting food, and there is a reason why it is so popular. Its hot dishes are the core element of its cuisine, composed of humble but nutritious ingredients. Olla podrida is the best example, a simple (but full of flavour) stew of beans, meats, and the popular morcilla, a sausage of blood, onion, rice and lard.

Meats and game meats are also an important part of Burgos’ gastronomy, with roasted lechazo (suckling lamb) and cochinillo (suckling pig) being probably the most popular choices. But its cheeses are also worth a mention, particularly its most recognised cheese: queso de Burgos, usually prepared with a mixture of sheep and cow milk, characterised by its soft texture. 

But Burgos gastronomy goes beyond main dishes, and the province offers white, red and rosé wines that have earned a denominación de origen: the Ribera del Duero. 60 municipalities in Burgos belong to this D.O. But there are two other drinks with D.O. in this province: Ribera de Arlanza wines and cava.

Every good meal deserves a good dessert, and Burgos’ gastronomy has many of them. Chevaliers, perrunillas, canelitos del cid… There is a sweet in Burgos to cater to every taste.

More recommendations to enjoy Burgos

Where to sleep in the province of Burgos

• Sleep in Burgos
• Sleep in Salas de los Infantes
• Sleep in Covarrubias
• Sleep in Atapuerca
• Sleep in Frías
• Sleep in Santo Domingo de Silos
• Sleep in Lerma
• Sleep in Oña

Where to eat in the province of Burgos

• Eating in Burgos
• Eating in Briviesca
• Eating in Atapuerca
• Eating in Santo Domingo de Silos
• Eating in Lerma
• Eating in Villafranca Montes de Oca
• Eating in Peñaranda de Duero
• Eating in Covarrubias
• Eating in San Juan de Ortega
• Eating in Belorado
• Eating in Medina de Pomar
• Eating in Aranda de Duero​

Nature and active tourism in Burgos

• Cañón del Río Lobos Natural Park
• Natural Space of La Yecla y los Sabinares del Arlanza
• Ojo Guareña cave, more than 100 kilometers of long caves and galleries
• Alto Ebro and Rudrón gorges

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Lakes and lagoons have the power to captivate onlookers, either for their extraordinary surroundings or their remarkable dimensions. Accordingly, Fascinating Spain embarks on a quest for Spain’s most outstanding lake. 

The verdict from those who know Spain best

Fascinating Spain’s community of travellers certainly knows every inch of Spain’s geography and is likewise best equipped to help us find the country’s most extraordinary lakes. Moreover, their responses shed light on the allure of Spain’s lakes.

Among the results appear bodies of water great and small, both fresh and saltwater, and those of greater and lesser renown. Nevertheless, all the lakes and lagoons on this shortlist share an eye-catching attraction.

The shortlist for Spain’s most magnificent lakes

The sheer number of names appearing on the list is a testament to the broad diversity of lakes found in Spain. Accordingly, fifth place was highly disputed, with two legendary names: the Enol Lake at Covadonga, in the highlands of Asturias, and the lesser known though equally splendid Tobar Lagoon, in Cuenca.

Fourth place was a clearer choice with the Gallocanta Lagoon, the principal lacustrine treasure of Aragón. The Gallocanta Lagoon stands out for its incredible abundance of water fowl that makes for an invigorating spectacle.

Third place goes to the Mar Menor, another natural wonder of Spain. Being Europe’s largest salt lagoon is an asset in itself, not to mention the gentle buoyant nature of the Murcian Coast.

The silver medal winner is found in Spain’s inland province of Soria. The Urbión Black Lagoon (Laguna Negra de Urbión in Spanish), with its otherworldly deep blue waters, is an icon for enthusiasts of spectacular panoramas as confirmed by the voters.

Spain’s most fascinating lake (and its largest)

The winner of Spain’s most fascinating lake is also the country’s largest. It is none other than the Sanabria Lake, an enormous glacial lake located 1000 metres above sea level in the province of Zamora.

The Sanabria Lake’s incredible beauty and history are intertwined with legend. Indeed, its well-garnered fame is confirmed by the travelling community, choosing it as Spain’s most fascinating lake.

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Midway between Santo Domingo de Silos, famous for its monastery, and the village of Contreras, lies an enclave more similar to Arizona than Castile, where one of the most emblematic movie scenes of the 'Spaghetti Western' genre was filmed.

A cinematic cemetery

5,000 wooden crosses aligned in concentric circles jut out of the rocky terrain. This is the place known as Sad Hill, the scene where Clint Eastwood, Lee Van Cleef and Eli Wallach fought their final duel in the 1966 film The Good, the Bad and the Ugly.

Whilst most people might associate the Spaghetti Westerns filmed in Spain with the region of Almería, the genius of Sergio Leone has left behind its indelible mark here among the oak trees and mountains of Burgos.

A legendary film set 

The Italian architect and cinema set designer, Carlo Simi, was charged with designing the film’s iconic final duel scene. The placing of the wooden crosses and the creation of desert-like vegetation was actually carried out by Spanish soldiers. The result was an on-screen atmosphere blending both tension and solemnity.

Magical hallowed ground without the departed

The oddest thing about Sad Hill Cemetery is that none of the tombs contain human remains, as far as we know. Despite being a fictional landscape of wood and stone, the empty graves only heighten the mysterious aura.

After the film’s production, the graveyard remained abandoned for nearly 50 years until the Cultural Association of Sad Hill started a crowdfunding campaign in 2015 to mark it as an official movie site of Spain.

The now permanently placed crosses form a peculiar circular labyrinth providing captivating views. Standing on the same central stone where Clint Eastwood and Van Cleef stood staring each other down, it is hard not to hear Ennio Morricone’s memorable melody from the film score. In fact, quite a few visitors often listen to the film’s music on their electronic devices.

An emotive and free visit

A visit to Sad Hill Cemetery is free of charge and no reservation is required. The most striking moments are either at dawn or dusk, when the crosses are bathed in golden light casting long shadows onto the terrain.  

To reach Sad Hill, take the forest walking trail from the village of Santo Domingo de Silos, crossing the Arlanza River to the trail leading to the cemetery. The route is marked with signs and easily found. 

You can also read this article in Spanish.

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Segovia’s glorious heritage and alluring ambience

The Roman aqueduct, a bridge to antiquity

Not only is Segovia’s aqueduct a masterpiece of Roman engineering, it is the emblematic soul of the city. Its 167 arches rise gracefully through the heart of the city, and not a speck of cement is to be seen. It has devilishly weathered the centuries and the elements. Starting from the Fuenfría spring, the aqueduct’s most renowned section lies at the extraordinary arcade above Azoguejo Square.

Observing these timeworn stones, one can almost hear the whisperings of millennia ago and feel an intimate connection with a civilisation that understood grandeur as an act of permanence. It might surprise some to know that until recently, cars freely travelled under its arches or that the aqueduct continued to supply water to the city until 1973.

The Alcázar of Segovia, a dreamy castle

Imagine a fairy tale castle with pointed turrets stretching skyward and a mighty silhouette looming over the land. Indeed, this is the Alcázar of Segovia, a fortress that has witnessed coronations, conspiracies and illusions of conquest. The panoramic views of the unfolding countryside from the castle’s lofty tower are simply breathtaking.

The castle’s intricately decorated salons evoke the splendour of the monarchs who once resided here. Royal residence of Castilian kings dating back to the 12th century, the castle’s old tower also served as the crown’s treasury. Indeed, the fortress was also the site of one of the first royal archives and a royal armoury. The Alcázar of Segovia is undoubtedly a place to immerse oneself in Segovia’s storied history.

The Cathedral of Segovia, our lady caressing the sky

Commonly known as the Lady of Cathedrals, Segovia’s Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and of Saint Fructus is a masterpiece of the late flamboyant Gothic style due to its sheer size and elegance, attested to by its exquisite soaring tower and the otherworldliness of its stained glass interiors bathed in daylight. From the chapels to the choir, everything about this cathedral summons awe for those who constructed it.

After the destruction of the old Santa María Cathedral in 1521 during the Revolt of the Comuneros, King Carlos I of Castile commissioned the reconstruction of what would become one of the most beautiful examples of this late Gothic style. Some original treasures were conserved from the old temple, such as the flamboyant Gothic cloister and the pipe organ, which was subsequently replaced in the 18th century for the current one.

San Antonio el Real, a quiet retreat

King Enrique IV originally commissioned the construction of a pleasure palace in 1455 on the site that subsequently became an enclosed sanctuary. The San Antonio el Real Monastery is another exceptional example of Gothic architecture and one of Segovia’s true wonders. Its artistic legacy has been conserved and bestowed to posterity, making the monastery an extraordinary museum in its own right.

Beyond the artistic opulence found inside the monastery, the building itself is a magnum opus, exemplified by the vivid Mudéjar coffered ceilings of the Main Chapel, the Isabelline Gothic-styled façade, and the stunning white and red hues of the cloister. What started as a kingly retreat came to be one of the most sacred architectural jewels of Segovia.

The historic embrace of Segovia’s town wall

Once an impenetrable stone barrier, today the extraordinary old city wall of Segovia appears more as a warm embrace, one that both protects the city and tells a story. Construction of the wall had been under way by the 11th century when King Alfonso VI of León conquered the town from the Moors. This colossal structure served during times when Segovia served as a strategic stronghold. The pure granite of its wall, with its 80 towers and five gates, extends up to three kilometres.

Of the three gates still conserved today, Saint James’ Gate and its four wickets present a splendid illustration of the Mudéjar style. Passing through the old town gates is like stepping into a past world of merchant caravans and the bustle of diverse cultures crowding the town’s streets. Tombstones from Segovia’s ancient Roman necropolis are known to have been reused in the construction of the town wall, thus preserving even the oldest elements from Segovia.

The indelible memory of the Jewish Quarter

Although Segovia’s entire old town is a treasure trove and deservedly a World Heritage Site, the old Jewish Quarter’s rich and illustrious cultural legacy is truly remarkable. The tightly packed homes in the Jewish Quarter formed small enclosures where the community’s daily life took place, while the rougher façades of its buildings reveal evidence of defensive measures having been taken. What survives today is a labyrinth of narrow, cobblestoned streets imbued with an aura of mystery.

Among the city’s five synagogues, the Main Synagogue, subsequently converted into a Christian church, stands out. The Sephardic community’s cultural and commercial splendour contrasted sharply with the ill treatment they suffered under Christian control. Beginning in the 15th century, repression against Jews led to their restricted movement within ghettos and their eventual expulsion or forced conversion. Some notable figures like Abraham Senior, Rabbi of Castile and notable banker, chose the latter.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

The legend of the aqueduct and its connection with the Devil

Once upon a time there was a city that lied at the foot of the mountains. Once upon a time there lived a girl who had to walk more than 16 kilometres everyday to get water from the nearest spring. It was a hard task, especially due to the city’s disposition. There always have been plenty of slopes in Segovia. The girl was tired of carrying her flagon throughout the steep streets, and one day she screamed into the void that she would sell her soul to the Devil in order to have water right by her house.

It didn’t take long for the Devil to appear in front of her eyes. He always takes every opportunity. They had a deal, he said. He would build the aqueduct she desired for and she would give him her soul in return as long as he built it in a single night. An aqueduct of more than 16 kilometres long, which would bring water to the whole city of Segovia, had to be ready for the next morning.

So the Devil began to work. Thousands of tiny demons worked by his side, placing the enormous rocks without rest. A terrible storm took place and the demons were able to get every rock they needed. The tempest left a gift behind, the Siete Picos, a mountain formation of a very characteristic silhouette.

Having every rock they needed, they worked the whole night. Meanwhile, the girl kept praying. She had made a mistake and felt guilty - she didn’t want to give her soul to the Devil. She had been lazy, misled by laziness, she thought. So she prayed and prayed and made promises to Virgin Mary, who seems to have pitied her, since she made the sun shine before it was supposed to.

So the night ended ahead of time. Sunlight covered the streets and roosters sang their song, but the Devil wasn’t finished yet. A single rock prevented him from fulfilling his purpose, a single rock took the soul of the girl away from him. In the morning, the girl was still alive and Segovia had a new aqueduct. And the Devil run away, leaving his footprints behind.

What do people in Segovia say nowadays?

The legend remains untouched in the collective memory of Segovia, passed through generations, leaving aside the true story, the one regarding Romans. The story of a great empire that built this impressive monument of 30 metres high and 167 arches on its top with their bare hands. It extends throughout 16 kilometres from the mountains, carrying the water of the Fuenfría spring, the place where the water that Segovia has always drank is born. Built with layers and layers of granite ashlars and without any type of joint, this aqueduct sure is Devil’s work.

People in Segovia appreciate this Devil’s work and pay tribute to it. A sculpture of this mischievous character lies on top of one of the many steep streets, the San Juan street. Here you can enjoy the majesty of the most popular monument in the capital of Segovia. The Devil is taking a picture with its great work, and you can take one too, with both him and his aqueduct.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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The Spanish village of two faces

This place is actually two municipalities joined together by a beautiful Roman bridge: Rihonor de Castilla in Spain and Río de Onor in Portugal. The first one is its official name because its administration sits in Zamora’s Sanabria comarca.

In order to distinguish these areas, people refer to them as the povo de cima and the povo de abaixo, which literally mean the ‘upper village’ and the ‘lower village’. It used to be a Spanish village involved in the Portuguese Restoration War, but nowadays there isn’t any difference between them for the people.

Rihonor de Castilla, a bilingual village

The border between Spain and Portugal is popularly known as ‘La Raya’. Every day, it is crossed by many people who travel to the neighbouring country to work or study. This relationship between cultures leads to linguistic interchange. For this reason, two languages are spoken in Rihonor de Castilla. Both Spanish and Portuguese are spoken indifferently.

It should be noted that another language was spoken here in the past: the Rihonorés. Influenced by Leonese and the two languages above mentioned, it is basically extinct now. The only traces of Rihonorés are found in the oral tradition and popular culture of the oldest residents.

Why are two time zones used in this village?

Portugal uses a different time zone than Spain. This means that whoever visits the neighbouring country should set their clock back one hour, as should those who visit Rihonor de Castilla because of its location. Its inhabitants are used to the time zone changes, so it doesn’t affect them at all. They usually prefer the Spanish time zone since the local administration belongs to Spain.

What to do in Rihonor de Castilla and its surroundings

Rihonor de Castilla has so much more to offer than these two peculiarities. This is why it should be included on every route between Spain and Portugal. Since this area isn’t very well known or touristic, this place allows you to enjoy the tranquilly that can only be found in nature.

Exploring Rihonor de Castilla

Rihonor de Castilla might not be the richest Spanish village regarding architectural heritage, but taking your time to explore it is a good idea. You should visit its Santa Marina Church, a Christian temple that resembles those of Puebla de Sanabria and its outskirts. It is made of the traditional local quarried stone, a building material that was also used to build the village’s houses.

Wolf sightings

The Iberian wolf is an indigenous species of the Iberian peninsula. These animals are extremely evasive, but they can be found almost every day in areas away from people, such as this spot in the heart of the Sierra de la Culebra. Rihonor de Castilla is one of those villages near Portugal that allows us to connect with nature in its purest form.

Guided excursions and jeep tours are offered by a few local companies if you’re interested in looking for these graceful animals. For this reason, Rihonor is one of the best destinations for travelling with kids and teenagers. It is an enjoyable experience for the whole family that brings the opportunity to teach important values to the younger members of the family, such as respecting and taking care of the local flora and fauna.

Active tourism in Zamora

This is a perfect area for those who want to rest while trying new things. Zamora’s active tourism offer is wide due to the diverse natural parks and hidden treasures that can be found in the province. Some of them sit a couple of kilometres away from Rihonor de Castilla, so you can stay in the village and travel by car to these spots.

Hiking routes and a boat ride at the Arribes del Duero Natural Park are some of the options this place offers. It attracts many tourists, both Spanish and international. The local administrations of the two countries work together to create different and attractive activities. The Iron Road, or Camino de Hierro, is one of them, a recently inaugurated route that runs through Spain and Portugal.

Besides being a bilingual village and using two time zones, Rihonor de Castilla and its surroundings are full of options. To wander through its streets is, without a doubt, to walk through the histories of both countries, to hear the beginnings of Spanish and Portuguese, and to remember those words that get lost with time. It reminds us of the importance of keeping alive our intangible heritages so future generations will be able to enjoy them like us.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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A brief history of the Alcázar de Segovia

The Alcázar de Segovia was constructed at the beginning of the 12th century and the castle is one of Spain’s most visited monuments. It should be noted that the first documents in which the words "castillo de Segovia" and "Alcaçar" appear date from the period between 1124 and 1139. Additionally, the granite stones used in its construction are similar to ones from the aqueduct, which indicate that there may have already existed a structure during the Roman period. 

A total of 22 monarchs have passed through this fortification and it has been the site of royal weddings, battles and other events. The Alcázar de Segovia has served as a Roman fort, a military fortress, a royal palace, a state prison, the guardian of the royal treasury and the Real Colegio de Artillería. Furthermore, on the first floor of this castle, the Archivo General Militar was installed in 1898, where it has remained ever since.

Although the name Alcázar comes from Arabic, it has no other known link to this civilisation. In fact, the castle’s true history began during the Spanish Reconquista and it has subsequently undergone various refurbishments.

What to see at the Alcázar de Segovia

If the visitor is wondering what to see at the Alcázar de Segovia, the list is long. Indeed, just the sight of the castle from afar is marvellous in itself, but it is worth exploring both its inside as well as its outside.

What to see outside the fortification

Located in the exterior area of the castle, the Patio de Armas is where numerous events have taken place throughout its long history. The patio was designed in the Herreran style, an architectonic style prominent in late Spanish Renaissance architecture. Though constructed by Francisco de Mora under orders of king Felipe II in 1587, the patio’s design was clearly influenced by Juan Herrera.

Also found outside the castle is the Torre del Homenaje or Torre de Juan II, constructed between 1440 and 1465. Placed upon an older, thirteenth-century tower, the current one rises 80 metres in height and has a lookout point at its summit. To reach the top, one must climb precisely 152 steps, but it is well-worth the effort. Once atop, the panoramic views of Segovia on offer are captivating. 

There is a 26 metre-deep defensive trench located in this part of the Alcázar, which can also be visited. Excavated over centuries, the stones removed from this area were subsequently used in the fortification’s construction. It should be added that years ago a drawbridge once spanned this trench, though nowadays it is a permanent stone bridge.

What to see inside the castle

The interior of the Alcázar de Segovia contains a chapel that the monarchs once used to attend mass. Additionally, there are several noble halls including the Sala de Ajimeces, which served as the castle’s main hall for years.

The fortification’s interior also includes the Sala de la Chimenea and the Sala de la Galera. In the first of these rooms, among other things, there is a depiction of how the fortress appeared before the refurbishment of the roofs. In the Sala de la Galera, it should be noted that, due to a fire that occurred in 1862, everything has been reconstructed with the exception of the original lower frieze.

Also in this area of the castle, one may visit the Sala de las Piñas, whose stained glass depicts Alfonso VII together with his daughter Berenguela. The Sala del Trono contains decoration credited to king Enrique IV, while the body armour on display there came from Urones de Castroponce. Although the original was destroyed in the fire, it has since been replaced by an identical one from the same maker.

In the Sala de Armas, located on the ground floor of the Torre del Homenaje, one may find suits of armour, medieval mortars, swords and old banners. For its part, the Cámara del Tesoro once stored the kingdom’s property deeds.

Of course, the previously mentioned Real Colegio de Artillería museum, which is located next to the Patio de Armas, and the Archivo General de Segovia should not be missed either.

How to visit the Alcázar de Segovia

The Alcázar de Segovia opens its doors to the public everyday of the week. From April to October, visiting hours are between 10a.m. and 8p.m. while from November to March, doors open between 10a.m. and 6p.m. On the 24th and 31st of December, visiting hours are from 10a.m. to 2p.m. The palace and the museum can be visited in approximately 45 minutes and it should be noted that visits to the Torre de Juan II are limited to no more than 25 minutes.

It is recommended to purchase tickets online in order to avoid long queues. Nevertheless, guided tours of the fortress can only be purchased on site at the ticket window. Tickets for guided tours can be bought up to five minutes before any tour, which lasts approximately three quarters of an hour. The last guided tour during the summer season begins at 6:30p.m., whilst the last tour during the winter season begins at 4:00p.m.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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Origins of the largest sculpture in the world

Territorio Artlanza sits in Quintanilla del Agua, in the heart of Burgos. Its name refers to its raison d'être and the Comarca del Arlanza, whose capital is Lerma. It is a singular fusion between art and Castilian essence, between creativity and the intention to preserve old traditions. It is said that this place is the biggest sculpture in the world. And it well could be, considering that it was sculpted by a single artist who has devoted the last 15 years of his life to doing so. His work stretches over 30,000 square metres.

The idea came up unexpectedly. It stemmed from one of those sudden, life-changing events that make us reinvent ourselves. We are talking about a clay artist who was born in Quintanilla del Agua. He lived on his claywork for a few years, selling his pieces in flea markets. But a financial crisis began in 2008, and art wasn’t as profitable as it used to be. An idea was born in the mind of the adventuresome Félix Yáñez: he would shape a true Castilian village with his own hands.

There was a reason behind that thought. He had recreated a building in his workshop. It reminded people of the traditional architecture of the area and they were interested in it. So he began a journey that continues today. What once was a sort of life-size model turned into a true village full of details that only lacks villagers.

Meet Territorio Artlanza

To wander around this particular work of art is to travel back in time. Its houses, made of adobe and timber framing, have the traditional soportales of the old houses that were lost in many villages in Castilla y León. Here you can find every possible traditional element, such as an old calvary in the heart of one of its squares and the stone bridge that crosses a tiny stream.

Although most of these buildings are mere façades, you can enter some of them and discover exhibition spaces that display life as it used to be. This sort of ode to nostalgia is shaped like wooden school desks, a tahona where you can almost smell fresh baked bread, or one of those typical taverns where never-ending mus games took place.

For some visitors, a walk through Territorio Artlanza brings some memories back. But it can be a whole new world for youngsters. The ethnographic museums in these narrow streets and squares portray the daily life of every village when time was so much slower than now. There was not any machinery in this era. It was the blacksmiths who forged diverse metal objects with their own hands. And shopping didn’t involve any shopping centres or the Internet.

In Territorio Artlanza, you will find a hostel, shops, and even an old botica or drugstore, but there is still a place for culture. The templete in one of its squares proves it. But the greatest sample are the two lively corrales de comedias, which are destined for cultural activities and festivals of diverse types.

A sustainable sculpture

You will discover one thousand and one surprises by wandering around Territorio Artlanza, but you should take your time if you want to learn its secrets. This village is more than a recreation, it is real because those wooden windows and doors of its houses belonged to others before this place existed. And so did the wood beams, the roof tiles, the stones, and the bars of the balconies.

Most of the pieces, details, and elements of Territorio Artlanza have found a second life here. The whole village has been built with materials gathered from landfills and spoilt tips. Other materials have been donated by people who look forward to doing their part in this work of art that keeps growing. Actually, the inspiration for this unfinished work and its development rely partially on the materials that are either found by the creator or donated to the project.

Stone by stone, beam by beam, the largest sculpture in the world keeps growing and evolving, just as time does. The last creation is a children's area, composed of miniature buildings and colourful tiles that add a special touch.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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Day 1: the aqueduct and the old town

The first must stop is visiting the aqueduct of Segovia. This impressive piece of civil engineering is one of the best preserved Roman constructions in the peninsula. It is estimated that it was built in the early 2nd century and is formed of 167 granite stone arches. One of the elements that make this monument more incredible, in addition to the 28 meters high, is that it does not have a single gram of mortar or cement.

But Segovia, declared a World Heritage City by UNESCO in 1985, has many other things to discover. And while looking at the aqueduct one is at the same time between the Plaza de Azoguejo and the Plaza de Artillería. The curious will notice that in one of the double arches is the sculpture of a virgin, which for some is the Fuencisla and for others the Cabeza.

Once you have seen this essential piece of Spanish architecture, you can contemplate the landscape from the steps parallel to the aqueduct or set off in the direction of the Casa de los Picos. This curious building was built in the 15th century and its peculiar facade was designed to avoid the Jewish style of the time. It has 360 granite peaks and legend has it that a treasure can be found under one of them. Inside, there is a Renaissance-style courtyard decorated with Talavera tiles.

Following the route through the old town of the Castilian city you can find interesting places such as the Plaza de las Sirenas. But it will be in the Plaza Mayor, with the impressive views of the cathedral, where the visitor can stop longer. Not only for the views, but also because it is one of the most full of life places in the city with so many terraces to enjoy.

As for the cathedral, it was completed in 1577 and its style is framed in the late Gothic. On the main facade is the Puerta del Perdón, where you can see a virgin designed by Juan Guas. To complete the day, visitors can walk through the Jewish quarter, where the Main Synagogue and the Gate of San Andrés are located. Before the expulsion by the Catholic Monarchs, the Hebrew community of Segovia was one of the richest and wealthiest Jewish communities in all of Castile and León.

Day 2: the Wall and its gates

The second day of your stay in Segovia can be started by visiting the few spots that still remain to be seen. One of those places is the Church of San Martín, a temple of Mozarabic origin and Romanesque style is located in the heart of the city. In the same square, you can visit the Torreón de Lozoya. It currently serves as a venue for art exhibitions and cultural activities. In the past it was used as a fortress, despite being within the city walls.

Because, as a good medieval city, the Castilian city has an important wall. Even so, its origin dates back to Roman times. Specifically, it is estimated that it was built in the 3rd century. But it was in the 11th century when it began to be reinforced, after the Christian conquest of the city. The purpose was to protect the city from Muslim attacks and other risks.

The perimeter of the wall is 3 kilometers long. Its origin and end is in the Alcázar. It is one of the few defensive constructions that are preserved complete in Spain, since, next to this one, only those of Lugo and Ávila remain. With an average height of 7.5 meters and a thickness of 2.5, walking around its perimeter or contemplating it is one of the must activities in Segovia. In recent years, a dirt path has been provided around the outside of the wall, offering a different view of it. It also offers an incredible view of the impressive Alcázar.

Despite its good condition, currently only three of the five gates that originally composed it are preserved. The gates of San Andrés, Santiago and San Cebrián. The Gate of San Andrés is the most popular, recognizable by the towers that compose it, one square and the other polygonal. It is also known as Puerta del Socorro, due to the small virgin of Socorro that can be seen on the opposite side.

Before finishing the day, visitors can also enjoy Segovia's diverse cultural offerings. Next to the Esteban Vicente Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Segovia or the Zuloaga Museum, there is also the Antonio Machado House Museum. The Sevillian poet lived here between 1919 and 1932. Its interior is full of furniture and objects that belonged to Machado himself, as well as photos and old newspaper clippings.

Day 3: the Alcázar of Segovia and La Granja de San Ildefonso

To finish this three-day getaway to Segovia, there are still two of the most interesting places to see, and one of them is only a few minutes away from the city. First of all, the Alcázar, built in the 12th century, is a must-see in Segovia. This site was a royal residence in the 13th century. The Alcazar is an fortification from which you can enjoy amazing views of the Castilian landscape. To reach the top of the tower you have to climb 152 steps, a worthy effort that will allow you to contemplate the whole city. In the insides of the tower is the patio de Armas, where cultural events such as chamber concerts are held.

The last stop of this three-day trip to Segovia capital will be the Royal Palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso, located about 20 minutes drive from the city. This buildings began its identification in 1721 and were intended to be recreational for the monarchy. The Versailles-style fountains and gardens that make up the outside are one of the reasons to visit them. But its luxurious interior, where you can find the statue gallery, the Marble Hall or the Tapestry Museum, also invite you to know this palace and visit it with time. Here is our proposed plan for what to do in Segovia in three days.

The Pozo de los Humos Cascade can be found 90 kilometres away from the city of Salamanca, near the border with Portugal, specifically in Arribes del Duero Natural Park. This place is shared with the neighbouring country and the province of Zamora.

The 50-metre-tall waterfall feeds from the Uces River’s water that heads to the Duero River and sets a limit to the municipalities of Mansueco and Pereña de la Ribera.

The natural phenomenon that names it

Uces River’s water disappears into the abyss after jumping over significant, uneven terrain. The fall and the strength of the falling water provoke a unique phenomenon that gives its name to the cascade. When the water falls into the pond, a thick, atomised water curtain or cloud of steam is created. It stays floating and generates a singular atmosphere, some type of fume and haze it is characterised by.

However, this phenomenon can only be observed when the river’s flow is high, which usually happens in periods of intense rain and snowmelt. For this reason, the best time to visit this breathtaking waterfall is in the rainy season that begins in November and ends in May, when the Uces River grows more than ever and the waterfall is at its peak.

But not only does it have a name with a deep meaning. Actually, there are two waterfalls here. A rock ledge on the highest point splits the river into two flows.

Although Pozo de los Humos is the most important of these waterfalls, Pozo de las Vacas is right by it. This cascade is born from the bifurcation of the Uces River and runs squeezed within two rock walls. The name is said to have its origins in a cow chariot that fell down this cascade and never made it to the mill it was going to.

How to visit the ‘Spanish Niagara Falls’ 

Visiting this lovely corner offers the possibility of walking through pure nature, thanks to the hiking routes you will find here. And although you should always be careful, they are suitable for all hikers. There are two main routes. If you want to take one of them, you’ll need to go to the villages where they begin and follow the signs that point to the leading path to Pozo de los Humos.

Route from Mansueco to Pozo de los Humos

The most popular route starts at Mansueco and is known as Senda de Roblea. This route is 2 and a half kilometres long and leads to some wooden walkways fixed on the rocks that allow you to see the waterfall from above. There are viewpoints as well where you can see Pozo de los Humos from an idyllic perspective.

This path is also known as Senda de Unamuno, and we must note that the popular author wrote down how astonished he felt by this place. A text that dates back to 1898, published in the magazine Ecos Literarios and signed by Miguel de Unamuno, reads: “¡Enorme fuerza la que, sin aparato alguno, con la sencillez del coloso, despliega! … Es una de las más hermosas caídas de agua que pueden verse entre aquellos tajos adustos.”

Route from Pereña de la Ribera to Pozo de los Humos

The route that begins in Pereña de la Ribera is another great option to observe this natural wonder, a short route that leads to the opposite point. Pereña is the starting point, and it leads to a parking lot located a couple of kilometres from the waterfall. You can complete it by foot, but people usually reach this point by car.

On your way, you will find a few viewpoints that offer a panoramic view of the waterfall and its surrounding area. Although the cascade is further away on this route, the view is more complete.

What to visit around Pozo de los Humos

Besides visiting the villages of Mansueco and Pereña de la Ribera, we recommend wandering around Fermoselle, a village in Zamora that charms with its lovely streets. Its various viewpoints are mandatory stops, since you can enjoy fascinating views of the scenery from them.

Fermoselle is also known as ‘the town of the 1000 wine cellars.’ This is actually one of the main reasons for its popularity. Fermoselle shelters plenty of subterranean wine cellars built thousands of years ago to protect the wine from the inclement weather. Nowadays, it is possible to visit them, and every wine lover should do it.

The story of the tallest Jesus Christ statue in Spain

On the 15th of June of 1930, the first stone of this sculptural work was placed. On February of the following year, after less than eight months of work, the Cristo del Otero (which literally translates to "Christ of the Hillock") was finished. It weighed 392 tonnes at birth. And here is a curious fact: 1931 was precisely the year when Christ the Redeemer of Rio de Janeiro was inaugurated. The comparisons are inevitable.

Cristo del Otero, one of the tallest Jesus statues in the world and one of the most impressive sculptures in Spain, was created by a local sculptor, Victorio Macho (1887-1966), a precursor to contemporary sculpture in Spain. When this monument was built, the latest artistic trends were extremely linked to art deco, but they also found inspiration in avant-garde movements such as Cubism. This translates into the preference for geometric shapes that you can find in Christ’s clothes and the rotundity of the volumes. This rigid Christ actually shows a vivid facial expression and reminds of antique artworks, for example, works of Egyptian art.

The commission for this work was made during the administration of General Primo de Rivera. The main idea was to cover the sculpture with tiles and bronze and use ivory and blue marble for the eyes. It was impossible to get the 187,000 pesetas (the former Spanish currency), a true fortune, and the budget was too modest. On the other hand, the initial project included keeping his arms open. The technical difficulties of this task couldn’t be ignored, even when the exact consequences were not known. For these reasons, a more stark appearance was chosen. It might be made out of concrete coated with granite and artificial stone, but it is still charmingly elegant.

Professor Segundo Fernández, born in Palencia, wrote the book that explores the initial opposition of the people in Palencia to this sculpture. They rejected its modern and strange shapes. Even the Town Council criticised Macho openly, more for his political ideology than for his work. And to top it all off, a bomb was placed in the entry to the statue in 1933. Luckily, it never exploded. It is believed it was supposed to attack the romería of this statue. Finally, Jesus’ hair was damaged when someone tried to remove the lightning rod that crowned the statue.

Cristo del Otero and its festivities

A visit to this Jesus Christ offers even more attractions than the statue itself. We should highlight the viewpoint from which you can enjoy the great extension of Tierra de Campos. It is worth paying a visit to the hermitage of unmistakable whitewash that rests on top of numerous columns. You will also find the sepulchre of Victorio Macho here. A tiny museum was dedicated to the artist, where pictures of his projects, busts, and smaller statues are exhibited. The following text can be read in his tomb:

“My last journey:

Here, this Christ's feet,

His creator came to rest.

His sculptor

Victorio Macho.

13-07-1966.”

This statue is especially important to Palencia on two very significant dates. It becomes the epicentre of a procession and a romería. In the evening of Palm Sunday, a confraternity guards the representations of Santísimo Cristo de la Vera-Cruz and Nuestra Señora del Dolor, or Our Lady of Sorrows, on their way to Cristo del Otero. They can be seen in different spots of this place praying the Rosary in a picture that perfectly portrays the essence of the Holy Week in Palencia.

The romería de Santo Toribio takes place in the spring, in April. Legend has it that Toribio went to Palencia so its people would abandon the heresy of Priscillianism. He was kicked out and looked for a shelter in the Santa María del Otero hermitage, and the Carrión River overflowed its banks and flooded the place terribly. Only after that moment did the people go to the hill in search of Toribio, who forgave them. Nowadays, the local authorities stone the people of Palencia symbolically, and they use bags filled with the typical bread and cheese to do so in a popular festivity declared of regional tourist interest in 2007.

The photogenic Cathedral of Segovia

Santa María was the original cathedral of the city of Segovia, built in the 12th century in the dominant Romanesque style of the time. It was located in the vicinity of the Alcazar, next to the archbishop's palace and a hospital. The temple, however, was destroyed during the revolt of the comuneros, a rebellion that took place between 1520 and 1522. Shortly thereafter, in 1525, King Charles I of Spain and V of the Holy Roman Empire decreed its destruction and decided to build a new one.

Thus was born the Church-Cathedral of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción y de San Frutos, which began to be built in 1525. It would not be consecrated, however, until 1768, a curiosity that will be discussed later. It was built following the guidelines of the Castilian late Gothic style, thus resembling the new cathedral of Salamanca. One of the best examples of this style of Spanish architecture and one of the last in Europe.

It was Emilio Castelar, president of the First Republic, who referred to this monument as the lady of the cathedrals of the Spanish geography. This is the title it has held since the 19th century, in capital letters: the Lady of the Cathedrals.

A construction out of the ordinary

Charles I of Spain and V of the Holy Roman Empire himself was in charge of promoting the new cathedral, taking the decision to take it away from the Alcazar. One of the highest points of the city, once known as the Plaza Grande, was chosen for this purpose. The works were installed on land that belonged to the Jewish quarter, over the old convent of Santa Clara, which was demolished. This area of the city underwent a tremendous transformation as a result of the project. As such a large space was needed for its construction, a hundred houses had to be demolished to go ahead.

The truth is that it was a project that developed in an unusual way from the beginning. Among other things, because this type of temples usually begin their construction at the head of the church, in order to be able to officiate mass as soon as possible. The one in Segovia, on the other hand, began to be built at the foot. It was fortunate to have the chapel of the aforementioned convent, located at the chancel, for this purpose.

Several elements of the old cathedral were rescued to reduce costs, many of them financed by the Segovians themselves. The cloister of the cathedral of Santa María, for example, was transported stone by stone. Others took several attempts before they finally settled. This is the case of the old wooden spire which, at 25 meters high, was struck by lightning in a great storm at the beginning of the 17th century. Before perishing in the fire, it was the tallest in Spain.

It is also worth mentioning the 243 years that elapsed since the first stone of the temple was laid until it was finally consecrated on July 16, 1768. The dome of the transept, for which a suitable project had not been found, was partly to blame. During these centuries there had been all kinds of collapses throughout Spain, a fact that Segovia did not want to repeat. It took several master builders, many consultants and more than fifty years of delays and stoppages before this dome was finally completed. It was completed in 1685.

Three secrets of great value of the Cathedral of Segovia

First of all, a historical fact. In the Cathedral Archive is preserved the famous and appreciated Sinodal de Aguilafuente, the first printed incunabula book in the history of Spain. It was promoted by Juan Arias Dávila, bishop of Segovia, who developed what is considered the first printing press in the country. This manuscript dates from 1472 and contains the minutes of the diocesan synod that took place in Aguilafuente, a town in Segovia, in June of that year.

Another of the remarkable details has to do with the tower, which can be observed in an excellent way from the space known as the Puerta del Perdón. It is so named, by the way, for the pardon granted by the bishop to those who destroyed the old cathedral. This tower measures 88 meters and in it lived, in the past, the bell ringer. Since climbing the steps of these almost ninety meters was not an appetizing practice, a method was devised to be able to communicate with him without the need to go up. A hole was built in the granite base of this tower. When it was hit, due to the echo effect, the noise reached the top of the construction. End of the problem.

Finally, a very small secret. Inside the temple, in a place that will not be revealed to invite active search, is the smallest stone of the whole construction. They say that those who find it will have the opportunity to walk around it three times. If you get it and make a wish, it will be granted.

A spectacular journey between Burgos and Santander

As its name suggests, this road linking the city of Burgos and the Cantabrian capital is a dream route. It has become one of the main attractions for people who enjoy traveling, those known as slow travel. The dream road is made to be enjoyed and to be able to get lost in its fantastic landscapes.

Traveling along the end of the Iberian plateau and entering the entrance to the Cantabrian Sea is a spectacle worth seeing. The natural parks and spectacular landscapes show what, in another time, was the bottom of the sea in a prehistoric planet. Texas-style canyons, parks and nature reserves full of lush forests, architectural sites and countless villages throughout the years.

The dream road is an ideal scenery to travel, by car or motorcycle, in autumn, when the leaves on the trees and the landscapes have that romantic air. In addition, the fact that the recent main roads have made it easier to travel between Burgos and Santander has meant that this magnificent road is not too busy to be enjoyed in all its splendour.

The views through the window of the dream road

The dream road route starts in Burgos and, already from the first kilometers, you can enjoy some unique landscapes. One of the moments not to be missed to look out the window is the arrival at the Natural Park of Alto Ebro and Rudrón gorges. This dreamlike scenery is formed by large cliffs and meanders. It gives the sensation of visiting the Colorado Canyon in the middle of Burgos. The road, as if it were a river, is winding and making visitors can get into a maze of mountains and cliffs.

Further on, entering Cantabrian territory, we reach one of the greenest and most unique valleys in northern Spain: the valley of Valdebezana. This place serves as an access point to the entire region of Cantabria. It hides in its interior dozens of natural places of interest, as well as charming villages in the middle of nature.

After passing the valley and once the Escudo pass is climbed, the landscape becomes more northern, reaching the Luena and Toranzo Valleys. Then, to the Pasiegos Valleys. These landscapes are announcing the arrival of the sea due to its large green landscapes, its stone houses and its abundant forests and wetlands. It is worth mentioning the typical Pasiego houses adorning the spectacular scenery. The arrival, after a few kilometers, to the bay of Santander, going through the area of Piélagos and Camargo.

The arrival in Santander, after several hours driving between stops and detours becomes a real discovery. In a short time the landscape changes from a stony and inhospitable one, in Castile and León, to the Pasiego fields of the deep Cantabria, crowned with the reward of the Cantabrian Sea.

Key stops on the dream road

However, despite the fact that the dream road is worth the trip by car, the truth is that it has several mandatory stops that will make the trip unforgettable. Some of them are natural areas where you can enjoy the scenery and practice mountain sports. Others are true architectural gems that even preserve remains from prehistoric times.

One of the first stops that should be made is arriving at the Natural Park of Alto Ebro and Rudrón gorges. There you will find one of the most amazing natural pools in Castile and León. The Pozo Azul (blue well), as they call it, is a pool in the middle of the park, surrounded by vegetation and with waters that invite you to swim. In the same area you can also find the Orbajena's fountain, a large waterfall 25 meters high. Embedded between canyons and rocks, it leaves the buildings nestled in that landscape. It is one of the most famous photographs of the road.

If you continue the journey by road, on arrival at the Valdebezana Valley, you can make a stop to discover several buildings that are relics of the Romanesque period. In particular, the Porras Castle and the church of San Vicente de Villamezán. At this point you will be in Cantabrian territory and it is also interesting to stop and take a close look at the typical Pasiega huts that dot the landscape. Some of the most attractive are in San Pedro del Romeral, Vega de Pas and San Roque de Riomiera.

Last but not least, for lovers of archeology and history, there is a mandatory stop on this dream road, already arriving at the destination. The regions of Piélagos and Camargo have interesting prehistoric remains such as the caves of Santián, Pendos, Cobalejos and El Mato. As well as the impressive Paleolithic paintings in the area. All this will make that this romantic autumn route has the best ending.

In the water, boat rides, canoeing, even paddle surfing. On land, hiking, climbing. Pure nature, you might think. But 40 years ago Riaño was not this. Riaño has always been green, yes, but the blue tinge of the water came from the blood drained from the hands of an unwanted reservoir. A reservoir that flooded seven villages and part of two others under its waters. Villages that are no more. Villages to which it will never be possible to return. Riaño is this beautiful landscape and the wound that still oozes pain today.

'The murder of the village where I was born'

'Riaño is a new town born from an accident of life. Well, rather from a murder, the murder of the town where I was born'. With these words Alfonso González, neighbour of Riaño and present in the demolition of the preceding landscape, referred to what was his home for 22 years in an interview published by RTVE in 2010. Known as Fonso in the village, he has just published, by the way, a novel titled Tocan las campanas a Concejo, a book that tells the neighbourhood struggle that took place in Riaño. But, what was so serious that even after 30 years it cannot be forgotten?

Riaño is a municipality and a village located at the crossroads between Asturias, Cantabria and Palencia. It rises 1,133 meters above sea level in a León integrated in the Cantabrian Mountain Range, of which it is part. It is also the youngest village in the province, since it was built in 1987 as a cruel substitute for the old Riaño, which was buried by the reservoir along with six other villages and part of two others. Thus, the rubble of Anciles, Salió, Huelde, Éscaro, La Puerta, Pedrosa del Rey, Riaño and part of Burón and Vegacerneja slide under the surface of this beautiful wasteland.

The old Riaño

Before being flooded by the waters, Riaño was a valley inhabited by those nine villages. One in which livestock was the main source of wealth. In fact, since the mid-nineteenth century, it was a livestock reference for the entire province of León. The countryside was also a means of subsistence for those countrymen, together with a tourist sector that proliferated quickly. Two neighbours remembered in the RTVE interview that 'in the Riaño of before you had everything'. 'There were two pharmacies, there were four bakeries, a national camp, a tourist parador, a court of first instance, a couple of hardware stores and at least half a dozen food stores...', they said.

A shadow over Riaño, the Leonese fjords

However, already at the beginning of the 20th century a black-winged shadow began to hover over that natural paradise. The name of Riaño was included for the first time in a plan of hydraulic works that foresaw a new future for this Leonese municipality. Fortunately, that project remained paralyzed in limbo for decades. Meanwhile, time did not pass in vain for Spain. The country went through the end of a monarchy, the beginning and end of a republic and a civil war. It was already in 1963, with Franco's regime already mature and established, when the threat once again showed its fearsome claws.

That year the National Hydrological Plan, in the midst of a reservoir construction, once again set its sights on Riaño, also known as "the Leonese fjords." In 1965 the works began and the shadow took on its own form with the construction of a huge concrete wall 110 meters high, which was completed in 1971. But the works were again paralyzed for more than 10 years. Why?

'The expropriation process was all nonsense because the property was not evaluated and then compensated, but sometimes many years passed, nobody claimed new appraisals, nobody advised the neighbours...', said the former mayor of Riaño in the 80's, Guillermo Hernández. In 1975 the company that had contracted the works had its contract terminated. Franco died and the whole country remained pending an uncertain future. The construction of the reservoir would have to wait. With the arrival of democracy, the people of Riaño began to believe that the project would not go ahead.

The construction of the reservoir, a symbol of powerlessness

Then came the year 1983, when the first elections for the Board of Castile and León were held. Jaime González, who was elected as Minister of Agriculture, proposed to the central government to resume the infamous works on the reservoir. The government of Felipe González agreed. The sentence of those nine towns was signed with the excuse that tens of thousands of hectares of land in the south of León could be irrigated. To flood some lands and irrigate others. To give life to some and kill others. And so it was.

In 1986 the works were retaken. That year part of the municipality was demolished to build the viaduct. In 1987 machines and police returned to finish the work. In the midst of this, there were police charges, neighbours clinging to the roofs of their houses and people who were left with nothing, without their livestock, without their houses, without their roots. The photograph taken by Mauricio Peña went around the world showing the impotence and pain. In it, the neighbour Vicente Alonso wielded a club in a fit of rage, a club against the agents. His sister Paz stood in his way. The neighbours would not leave their homes without fighting. Worst of all was the suicide of Simón Pardo, a tenant who could not stand the situation.

Vicente Alonso sees the civil guard charging against a group of young people from Riaña who oppose the construction of the reservoir, and goes to them, his sister Paz tries to stop him.

Even so, the demolition machines demolished the municipality. In total, 60 houses were demolished and forcibly evicted. At least 33 families were forced into exile. After the debacle, many left Riaño, especially young people. Others faced a new home that looked barren and strange. A Riaño without Riaño. At the beginning they had to settle in second homes, in hotels, in relatives' houses, in tents... Since, at that time, in the New Riaño only the town hall and some private houses were built.

The new Riaño

'Now our life is gone, because we live with this, with the plain, and this is covered with water. I used to pick 16, 18, 20 kilos of basil and now I have nowhere to pick anything. And the cattle had to be sold because, if not, we were exposed to losing them,' said one of the former residents of Riaño. The population decreased drastically: in the 1970s there were more than 1,500 people and in the 1990s there were barely 500.

Fortunately, the residents of Riaño have been able to reinvent themselves and, although with great regret, many moved from livestock farming to the hotel business or the brick industry, betting everything on a new lifestyle: tourism. Although there have been difficult years, it seems that the town is now experiencing a good moment. The reservoir, which has not fulfilled nearly the function for which it was conceived, is now used as a recreational space. A bench rests next to the hermitage of Nuestra Señora del Rosario, baptized with the name of 'the most beautiful bench in León'. The largest swing in Spain was also installed here not long ago, an eight-meter high swing that swings over a dreamlike landscape.

Of the enclave that perished under the waters of the reservoir some vestiges remain. The church of San Martín was moved stone by stone from the buried Pedrosa del Rey. The square of Cimadevilla has more remnants of another time. A granary, a horseshoe rack or a shepherd's hut are some of the elements that crowd the esplanade. Even older are the pieces on display in the Ethnographic Museum, which exhibit other lifestyles from very remote times. In addition to the active tourism in the reservoir, the routes offered by the mountains.

Riaño is part of one of those reborn villages that has fought tooth and nail to get back on its feet. It is a perfect town for rest or, on the contrary, for activities. But, in any case, a perfect village to disconnect. Meanwhile, the neighbours make sure that the memory is not lost because as a song says 'although my land does not exist, I carry it here with me'.

However, what makes this hermitage special is its exact location. It is on the edge of a cliff, in the very heart of the Hoces del río Duratón park. The views of the canyon formed by the Duratón River are truly fascinating. The reservoir created by the Burgomillodo dam, a short distance away, helps to complete the picture. Thus, from the hermitage you can enjoy one of the best views in the whole park.

A journey through the complex

Of the remains still standing of the monastic complex, the hermitage of San Frutos stands out, a Romanesque construction dating from the 12th century and erected on top of another Visigothic temple from the 7th century. The foundation of the hermitage of San Frutos is attributed to the figure of San Frutos and his two brothers, San Valentín and Santa Engracia. The three of them chose the Gorges of the River Duratón to devote themselves to a life of contemplation. Later, the complex was completed with a cemetery and a monastery.

Access to the religious complex is via a curious stone bridge built in 1757, over the crack known as La Cuchillada. In the middle of the crevice and the hermitage of San Frutos are the remains of a Benedictine monastery. Nearby is the hermitage, with the characteristic early medieval tombs at the foot of its apse. The cemetery is located between the edge of the cliff and the religious complex. Next to it are the tombs which, according to tradition, belong to San Frutos and his two brothers, although they are currently empty.

Welcoming visitors to the complex is an iron cross on a stone pedestal with seven engraved keys representing the seven gates of Sepúlveda. The origin of the cross dates back to 1900, when it was erected to commemorate the pilgrimage made that year under the patronage of the bishop of Segovia Quesada. Thus, in the area the number seven acquires special notoriety and corresponds to different events such as the seven miracles of San Frutos, the cave of the Seven Altars or the seven gates of Sepúlveda, among others.

Built more than 900 years ago

Construction of the church began in 1093, and it was consecrated in 1100 thanks to the archbishop of Toledo, Bernardo de Sedirac. Built on the remains of Roman buildings, the construction of the hermitage of San Frutos is attributed to a monk.

In terms of its architecture, the hermitage has a single nave with double arches and small columns. Covered with a barrel vault, access to the interior is through two doors. Of these, only the main one, located on the north side, is functional, as the other one is walled up. It is built in ashlar masonry.

This temple has 14 capitals decorated with mythological scenes and plant ornamentation. The history of the ashlar stone under the altar of the San Frutos hermitage is curious. Known as the "saint's stone", tradition has it that if you turn the ashlar three times the hernia is cured, while with fewer turns the pain disappears.

The hermitage of San Frutos has undergone several alterations over the years; such as the one that took place in the 12th century when three apses were added. However, it was not until the 18th century that major works were carried out on the interior. For example, a new altarpiece was made to go on the altar of San Frutos, transporting his relics there. Years later, the new chapel for the saint was added.

History of its era as a monastery

In June 1126, King Alfonso VII of León granted the hermitage the charter to populate the monastery of San Frutos, at the same time confirming its annexation to the monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos. In this way, the Benedictine monks remained in the complex located in Hoces del Duratón until they had no choice but to abandon it as a result of Mendizábal's confiscation in 1834. Thus, the complex was abandoned, to which must be added the fire that occurred in the 19th century. However, in order to preserve it, it was listed as a National Monument in 1931. Decades later, in 1992, the Brotherhood of San Frutos del Duratón was founded, whose mission is to preserve this place. San Frutos is the patron saint of the province of Segovia, to whom a pilgrimage is held on 25 October.

The miracle of "La Cuchillada"

"La Cuchillada" is the name given to the crack that must be crossed over the stone bridge to reach the hermitage of San Frutos. According to legend, the crack was opened by San Frutos himself with his walking stick, stopping the Saracens and saving the inhabitants of Sepúlveda who were crying for help. The crack marked the sacred ground through which the infidels could not pass. 

The walled complex of Rello at the top of the mountain is worthy of a fairy tale, where the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape stands out. But there is no more incredible sensation than to walk through its narrow, cobbled streets, which, together with the castle and its towers, take all visitors back to an ancient era from the moment they pass through the only and main entrance to the village.

However, very few people have the privilege of knowing about the existence of this extraordinary and peaceful place, today practically forgotten, where only 15 inhabitants remain.

The majestic wall of Rello

If Rello still preserves the medieval essence hundreds of years later, it is precisely because of its imposing wall. The entire area where the settlement is located is completely fortified. The wall is flanked by various towers and topped with battlements, which are perfectly preserved. In fact, of all the villages and towns in Soria established on a rock, such as Medinaceli, Calatañazor or Peñalcázar, Rello is the one that has best preserved its entire walled enclosure.

Although there is little documentation about the origin of Rello, it contains a very important historical legacy under the vestiges of its stone walls. The settlement of the wall is said to date back to the 12th century, at a time characterised by continuous Christian and Muslim invasions. This being so, it is not surprising that it was decided to create a fortified perimeter to protect the inhabitants of the municipality. Later, in the 15th century, the fortress was reformed, when Rello had already reached the lordship of the Count of Coruña.

 Rello Castle

At one end of the wall is the Rello Castle. It is believed that it could have been built in the 15th century; although some historians point out its existence already in the 11th century. Today you can still see the remains of the keep, which was half destroyed by a lightning, a cistern and the wall that separated the castle from the rest of the old town.

It can be accessed through two fortified doors. Both contain a heraldic coat of arms with an eagle, from the former Count of the village, Lorenzo Suárez de Mendoza; the 4th Count of La Coruña. He was a nobleman who was a direct descendant of Iñigo López de Mendoza, Marquis of Santillana. In 1580 he was appointed by Philip II as the fifth Viceroy of New Spain.

"El Rollo de Rello es de yerro"

It is strange to walk through its streets and not hear: "el rollo de Rello es de yerro". This tongue twister refers to the iron bombard in the village's main square, a 15th century piece of artillery before the cannon. It constitutes an identity element for the municipality.

The Rollo represented the administrative category of the village of Rello. Also, according to its inhabitants, this iron bar was a place of atonement for the faults committed by prisoners; serving as an example and lesson for the people of that time. In fact, the word "yerro" means a fault or crime committed out of ignorance or malice; against divine and human laws.

The Muslim Watchtower of Tiñón

Legend has it that the caudillo Almanzor went there to die on his return to Medinaceli from Calatañazor; where he had been defeated. The watchtower of Tiñón is another of the things to see in Rello; as it represents one of the most significant elements of the municipality. Indeed, it may be the most appreciated of them all because of the historical value it acquires.

To understand the meaning of the watchtowers, one must go back to the Muslim era in the Iberian Peninsula, during the 10th century. Almost two hundred years after the conquest of the territory, Islam retreated to the Duero Valley; following the advance of the Christian kingdoms to the south. Faced with this problem, the Caliphate decided to reform its defensive systems by building a new system of surveillance and military observation through fortified towers, known as atalayas. The main objective of their construction was to provide a high and secure site; from which to control the territory in case of enemy invasion.

At present, there are more than twenty Muslim watchtowers in the province of Soria, strategically located in the Duero Valley. These towers thus formed an integral part of the fortified route of the Islamic cities. In the case of the Watchtower of Tiñón, it is dated between the 9th and 10th centuries.

Torre del Agua (Water Tower)

On the southern side of the wall there is a circular tower that controls access to the Escalote River; which was used to collect water. Hence its name, the Torre del Agua (Water Tower). In 2012 it was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest with the category of Monument. Its location, subordinate to the wall in the direction of the river, makes some authors doubt its Islamic chronology and whether it was really another watchtower. However, the characteristics of its construction link it to the Muslim period, due to its circular plan and cylindrical elevation.

The beauty of the scenery of Los Altos de Barahona

The privilege of a village like Rello is that it not only possesses the artistic and historical beauty of its streets, but also receives the rich scenery of Altos de Barahona, where its wall is located. Its views are impressive both from the top of its walls and from the road that leads to the region.

Despite being a great unknown to many, the Altos de Barahona are considered the most important moorlands in Spain; with great ornithological value. Thus, the place is designated as a Special Protection Area for Birds; as well as being declared a Site of Community Interest (SCI). It also forms part of the Natura 2000 Network. In this area you can also visit other towns such as Torrevicente, Barcones, Marazovel, Alpanseque and Pinilla del Olmo.

Villalpando

This medieval village is well-preserved and is notable for the remains of its walled enclosure. It is essential to mention , which was built in the 16^th century, as well as its amazing churches and main square which is highly representative of the local architecture.

Granja de Moreruela

This little village has just around 300 inhabitants and is located in the centre of the province of Zamora. Monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, of the Cistercian Order, built in the 12^th century has a strong influence in this town since its precious remains are still preserved as a reminder of its original beauty. Besides, it is necessary to mention the shelter of ‘El Portalón’ with prehistoric paintings. It should also be highlighted that at this point of the Way to Santiago on the Silver Route is divided into two options, the classic route to Astorga and the Sanabresa route.

Benavente

Another beautiful village is Benavente, crossed by the river Órbigo and with very wealth heritage. It is also a place of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, in where a stroll through its Jewish quarter is a must.  It is advisable to discover places like the gardens of the Rose Garden and the Meadow Park, as well as a tour of its religious building. For lovers of Holy Week, there is a specific museum of this festivity.

Toro

Maybe, Toro is the most popular village due to its wines’ certificate of origin, however, this town offer other attractions. The breath-taking remains of the past which preserves its original colours. Besides, the fortress and the monastery of ‘Sancti Spíritus el Real’ are also great places to visit. And for those who enjoy hiking, the area around the town has an impressive natural heritage.

Alcañices

This village is popular because of the Treaty of Alcañices, since it established the borders between Portugal and Castile and León in the 13^th century. However, Alcañices has more beautiful spots, such as la Torre del Reloj (the Tower of the Clock) in Romanesque style, as well as its incredible natural surroundings.

Mombuey

This is one of the most beautiful villages of Zamora, founded after the Reconquest. A perfect destination for those who love hiking since it is located near to Sanabria region and to  Valparaíso reservoir. It is part of the Camino Sanabrés, so it is also common to see pilgrims enjoying the town. Besides, there is a fortifies tower, which is associated to the Order of the Temple, as well as its charming stone-houses.

Puebla de Sanabria

This village is really closed to Sanabria lake with spectacular landscapes. It is highly recommended to explore its natural surroundings and its historical and artistic heritage, which includes the castle of ‘Los Condes de Benavente’ and the church of ‘Santa María de Azogue’. Obviously, Puebla de Sanabria is a must of Zamora.

Santa Cruz de los Cuérragos

There are just 11 permanent inhabitants, who could enjoy its historical and architectural heritage. It is considered an ethnological site and you can visit such curious places as the bridge of ‘Los Infiernos’ or the old mill of the village. Besides, its natural landscape is part of the Natural Area of ‘Sierra de la Culebra’ mountain range, which combines stone, woods and slate houses.

Fermoselle

This village is also known as the Balcony of the Duero and stands out for its natural surroundings. It is located within the Arribes del Duero Natural Park, a magnificent destination for those visitors who enjoy hiking and nature. The House of the Arribes de Duero Natural Park is the perfect point to get more information about this town, where it is possible to make a tour of Baroque, Romanesque and Gothic buildings, including the remains of the castle of Doña Urraca.

Tábara

Tábara is located in a spectacular valley surrounded by the mountains of the Sierra de la Culebra, the Sierra de las Cavernas and the Sierra de las Carvas, with just 800 inhabitants. Its historical heritage is made up of several churches and sanctuaries, the most important is the church of Santa María. This village was founded in a Mozarabic monastery where the enigmatic woman Ende worked. Besides, it is possible to visit some architectural remains which includes cave paintings.

Salto de Castro

Salto de Castro has no inhabitants; is for sale! However, it is a fascinating village. It is located in the Natural Park of Arribes, which makes it as an interesting legacy for the industrial heritage of the 20^th century. Besides, this abandoned village was used by engineers of the construction of the Duero and Brandilanes.

That is what we suggest here. To prepare a getaway and then enjoy it fully aware, forgetting that there is a world outside the one experienced in that present moment. The experience we are betting on here is located on the Segovian side of the Sierra de Guadarrama. Specifically, in the mountains of Valsaín, declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. These mountains await the newcomer without titles or airs of grandeur, only with the promises that the mountain always offers. Silence, immensity, trails, water, stories. Mobile in airplane mode and the senses awake.

Valsaín, tasting a Segovian village

The road that leads to the village of Valsaín is already an experience in itself, especially when approached in the winter months. The trees that guard the road are dyed white, the cold surrounds everything and the curves, once those tall trees are exhausted, give way to the beautiful meadow of Navalhorno.

In the heart of the Guadarrama National Park, in the lands of Segovia, Valsaín forms, together with La Pradera, Riofrío and La Granja de San Ildefonso, the Real Sitio de San Ildefonso. It is a historic place, once frequented by royalty, today devoted to a quiet life at the foot of the mountain. That serene character floods the first sensations, still on the road, while the wooden houses follow one after another. Valsaín is intimately linked to this, as it is linked to its mountains.

Establishing this enclave as a starting point for all the excursions to be made means going to meet a Segovian village. It means savoring its old streets, its typical mansions, the Castilian gastronomy and the feeling of being close to nature, in the middle of the valley, with the mountains guarding the routine. It has barely 200 inhabitants, so it will be surprising, at least at first contact, to discover the richness of its history and with it the ruins of the royal palace.

It is known that the mountains of Valsaín were the object of desire of royalty since the 12th century, when they joined an aristocracy that had soon understood the wealth of the area. At the beginning of the 14th century, this place was a hunting lodge that the Trastámara house used to refer to as Casa del Bosque (House of the Forest). Already in the time of Philip II and with the dynasty of the Habsburgs, it became a palace. From 1552 to 1556 the works of remodeling of the complex were carried out, promoted by Philip II and in the hands of the architect Gaspar de Vega. He designed a building around a large courtyard, flanked by corner towers and with accessory structures that were added in later years. In its period of splendor, the Flemish influences that the architect picked up on his travels through Europe were clearly visible.

Today only ruins remain, partly because of a great fire that broke out in the late seventeenth century, under the reign of Charles II. Decadent and abandoned, there is not much left of the palace in which the crown occupied its time. But the views of the valley from its location are still what they were and this palace is still the great artistic and historical legacy that royalty left in Valsaín.

Where the eye cannot see

The connection we propose with the environment, in any case, is more about abandoning yourself to nature. To the mountains of Valsaín, crossed by the Eresma River, where it seems that the view is not enough to contemplate all the elements of interest that are hidden among pines, oaks, oaks and ferns. The various hiking trails lead the traveler between streams, waterfalls and rock formations, discovering viewpoints as you go.

The ascent to the mountain is not always easy, but it is worth it every time. Only thanks to the effort one can contemplate the water falling down the Chorranca waterfall, undoubtedly one of the most spectacular corners of the Segovian mountain range. Up there there is no signal, that's what this route is about, but the walker does not need it. Nature envelops and isolates, the water thunders in its fall and the eyes are lost, with pleasure, among the rocks and the nooks and crannies of the trees. There are blackberries, mushrooms, the chirping of birds. Lots of life.

In this huge mountain you also have the opportunity to approach a beautiful meadow that in the summer months surprises for its green and in the winter months for its white, almost always covered with snow. Legends dwell in its rock formations. Especially well known is the one that concerns the so-called Monk's Cave. It tells of a remote time when the search for eternal youth and the philosopher's stone was the desire of many. A young man named Segura, according to legend, was willing to sell his soul to the devil to achieve it. The devil, tied to the province of Segovia in many ways, agreed, but the young man eventually repented and went to live, as a hermit, in the mountains.

When Satan came to claim his part of the bargain, the young man entrusted himself to the Virgin, who appeared to scare the creature away. Along the way, the devil lost his teeth, which were transformed into the stones that can be seen today in this meadow. The walk to it, from Valsaín, is most pleasant. The eyes are hopelessly lost again.

As they must have lost those of the king consort Francisco de Asís de Borbón, who at the beginning of the XIX century ordered to carve in a stone, in the hill of the Moño de la Tía Andrea, a privileged seat. At an altitude of 1,600 meters, he watched from this place, then, La Granja de San Ildefonso. Today the pines have invaded the views, although they still leave spaces for the eyes to dare to go further.

In the opposite direction, but without leaving the mountain, awaits a special corner: the highest waterfall in the sierra. The Chorro Grande waterfall, which slides for about 80 meters through granite rock, creating a spectacular picture. The climb up to it does not involve great difficulty. However, in the winter months, with certain frozen sections, it is advisable to be cautious and take each step carefully. Perhaps the perfect time to pursue this sound of water is spring, when the thaw allows the flow to become immense.

Much of the way to the waterfall is sheltered under the pines of Segovia, which rise between streams and creeks. The one of Peña Berrueco first, the one of the Fuente del Infante later, the one of arroyo Grande to conclude. The last stretch includes a steep slope, but the final views compensate for any breaths shaken by the effort. There planted, a large granite mass says a lot about the strength of the mountain, as well as the water that slides relentlessly. Even with all this, the consequences of the great fire that ravaged this area of the Sierra in the summer of 2019 are still being felt and mourned.

But the water is still flowing. There was a time when that of the Sierra de Guadarrama was considered almost a sacred water, highlighting within this fascination corners like the Fuente de la Reina, in the Pradera de la Fuenfría. From this place the Siete Picos, one of the most admired mountain formations, can be appreciated. Legends arise again, also related to the search for eternal youth, in this case by a dragon that found here, after traveling the world, perpetual rest. The Seven Peaks that can be seen today are, according to this myth, the shapes of the crest of this dragon that remained frozen here, preserving its appearance, just as he wished.

Segovian pine forests: a unique smell

You should also stop to take a breath and capture the smell of the pine forests of Segovia. It is a characteristic smell, which fills the nostrils pleasantly and soaks the body with intense, but never overwhelming, sensations. The constantly flowing water also seeps into the lungs and has an effect, it generates a humidity with which you breathe better. A walk through the pine forest is refreshing.

The journey goes on through the Boca del Asno recreation area. Whoever wants to listen to another legend, will find the explanation for this curious name in a story for which we must go back to the nineteenth century. It was celebrated, then, in this exceptional environment, the election of a new mayor. Not much given to words, he seemed to be unable to start his speech with such bad luck that, as he was about to do so, a donkey brayed. Everyone present, including the mayor, burst out laughing. Another explanation, perhaps more plausible, looks at another large granite mass that bears some relation to a donkey's head. This formation awaits the walker on the left bank of the Eresma River.

This riverbed conditions a beautiful spot, with magnificent flora and fauna, which even offers the possibility of bathing in a couple of natural pools. The hiking trails are almost endless, as the paths cross, the forest widens in certain sections and the river leads to other places of equal beauty, such as Valsaín itself. This path that leads to the village runs along the fishing grounds that Carlos III ordered to be restored. These Royal Fisheries were part of the recreational areas where royalty and nobility enjoyed the incomparable freshness that, in summer, provides the Segovian pine forest.

Attention: we are in a historical place

The Royal Site of San Ildefonso is not only about nature baths. In fact, one of the most stimulating walks arises under the shelter of the greatest opulence: the one that Felipe V built in the Royal Site of La Granja de San Ildefonso. The first of the Bourbons to rule Spain fell in love, like his predecessors on the throne, with this natural spot at the foot of Guadarrama. The monarch had lived a good part of his childhood in the palace of Marly, where his grandfather, the French sovereign Louis XIV, spent his days of rest. The Sun King built the impressive Versailles, but it was Marly the place that made a place in Philip's heart.

From these memories, and the desires they would generate, the Bourbon bought the farm of San Ildefonso from the Hieronymites and built his Royal Site. Theodore Ardemans was responsible for the palace, René Carlier, pupil of the architect of Louis XIV, for the gardens. The style of one and the other, Spanish and French respectively, was noticeable. Some rooms of the palace can still be visited today, and the grandeur of the construction can still be felt.

But if anything impresses are the gardens, with its 26 monumental fountains, most of them dedicated to classical mythology. Several of the most important French sculptors of the time worked on them, who took advantage of what was said that the waters of this mountain were the best. The colors of the garden, the reflection in the ponds, the contrast with the palace... everything changes with the seasons, making this visit pleasant and different at every time of the year.

Touching the sky

This disconnecting getaway to reconnect with what is important can conclude by touching the sky of the Sierra de Guadarrama. Discovering the Mujer Muerta and the legend that surrounds this beautiful mountain range, which speaks of the sacrifice of a mother out of love for her two children. From this side of Segovia and in the distance, its forms resemble the shapes of a woman resting. It is a symbol for the Segovians. It is coming home. In this legendary mountain range there are mountains that exceed 2,000 meters in altitude. This is the case of La Pinareja, with its 2,197 meters, or Montón de Trigo, whose 2,161 meters also have their own legend. This is what happens with what feels unattainable: it is imagined and reinvented.

But this Segovian Sierra de Guadarrama, despite that first feeling of isolation between lush forests, large mountains and hidden spots, is close, friendly and very beautiful. A place where the five senses are more alive than ever.