A selection of Toledo’s treasures

Exploring Toledo is a pleasant journey through history. Its Christian, Jewish, and Islamic temples embellish the city, each from its own religious tradition, while the maze-like streets are an invitation to roam carefree. The Tajo River at the foot of the town wall is a flowing reminder of life’s transient nature.

The Cathedral of Saint Mary, Dives Toletana

The Primatial Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo, also known as Dives Toletana (The Rich Toledan), is preeminent among Spanish cathedrals. This cathedral is the apex of the Spanish Gothic style. Its extraordinary artistic value includes various masterpieces of assorted styles spanning several historical periods.

The white stone from the Olihuelas quarry used in the cathedral’s construction has created a silver-toned filigree on the door reliefs and pinnacles. Each successive epoch has bestowed its finest art onto the cathedral, from its Renaissance grillwork to the Baroque altarpiece, El Transparente, and much more.

The old quarter, a labyrinth of history

The old city centre of Toledo, safeguarded by the town wall and the bend of the Tajo River, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. Its more than two-thousand-year-old history has bequeathed artistic treasures from diverse periods and cultures.

The narrow and twisting streets of old Toledo are an ingenious adaptation to the terrain and climate and, indeed, a defensive aid to possible attacks. Walking through these jaw-dropping scenes full of history and into one of the old city’s squares is to feel the beating public heart of centuries past.

The Alcázar, a majestic presence

The magnificent Alcázar of Toledo overwhelms the city’s landscape, but its solemn elegance soon wins over the newcomer’s heart. Located at the highest point of the city, this once mighty fortress is today a museum and library.

Prior to its current status, the Alcázar served many other functions, including Visogothic royal residence, Islamic citadel, and the imperial symbol of power for the Habsburg royal dynasty. It subsequently served as a prison and even a settlement house until its destruction in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. Today, it stands rebuilt as an unmistakable icon of Toledo.

Santa María la Blanca, the heart of Hebrew faith

Toledo’s name is synonymous with the history of Spain’s Sephardic community, whose principal temple, presently called the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca, is located in Toledo. After suffering damage from a fire, King Alfonso X, also known as the Wise, ordered its restoration so that it would remain ‘Spain’s largest and most beautiful synagogue.’

Surrounded by a garden isolated from the bustling city, the synagogue’s exquisite white columns are an open invitation to enter the hushed interior. Its adornments, considered masterpieces of Mudéjar art, are exquisite samples of the Castilian and Nazari traditions.

Mosque of Cristo de la Luz, treasure from Muslim Toledo

The Mosque of Cristo de la Luz was formerly the Bab al-Mardum Mosque, a construction from 999 that was inspired by the Mosque of Córdoba, and remains the oldest standing monument in Toledo today. Although it may be small, the building is a cultural gem and a symbol of peaceful co-existence among differing religions.

A Mudéjar-styled apse was added in the 12th century and converted into a church, and its original identity remained forgotten for centuries. The cupolas and horseshoe arches gracefully blend with the brick and Visigothic capitals of its columns in a building that is the synthesis and a crowning achievement of Toledo’s history.

Santo Tomé, El Greco’s church

Toledo is intrinsically linked to the legacy of the illustrious painter El Greco, who endowed the city with one of his greatest works, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz. Though this indelible painting is reason enough to visit Santo Tomé Church, there is much more to see.

Santo Tomé Church, or Saint Thomas the Apostle, was founded in the aftermath of the Castilian conquest of Toledo. The church’s site was once a stunning Mudéjar-styled edifice whose magnificent lobed blind arches and other details are still conserved. Gonzalo Ruiz of Toledo, the Count of Orgaz, was a generous nobleman benefactor of Santo Tomé Church, and upon his request, has rested in peace at this church since the 14th century.

Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, spellbinding Gothic

The Franciscan monastery of San Juan de los Reyes forms part of the extraordinary legacy of the Catholic Monarchs, who commissioned its work to Juan Guas in 1476. The church, with its starry cupola and the flaming tracery of the cloister, is a monument to one of the foremost examples of the Isabelline Gothic style.

Wandering the church cloister with its lush greenery and the stylised contours of the picture windows, arcades, and pinnacles is a heavenly experience. San Juan de los Reyes is one of the finest displays of Spanish art and a true wonder of Toledo.

El Tránsito Synagogue, Sephardic splendour

To better understand the exceptional cultural heritage of the Sephardic community, Toledo offers a renowned museum dedicated to its local Jewish culture. There the visitor can discover Sephardic history, starting with the Roman period until their expulsion in 1492 and the subsequent persecutions during the Catholic Inquisition.

However, the site that houses the museum, El Tránsito Synagogue, also known as Samuel ha-Levi Synagogue, is no ordinary building. Not only is it widely acclaimed to be the most beautiful medieval synagogue in the world, it is perhaps the best conserved one as well. Despite such grandeur in Hebrew temples being less common, this temple was designed to be a palatial oratory and the interior ornamentation is simply extraordinary.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

Letur

Letur is one of the most beautiful villages of Albacete, so its visit is a must. It is located in the Sierra de Segura and has just 1,000 inhabitants. However, it is a town with a lot to show.

Among its most outstanding monuments are the Church of Santa María de la Asunción, the town hall or Albayacín Street, where you can see clear examples of Islamic architecture. If you have more time, you can also see the Arco de Las Moreras, the Cuesta de Los Molinos and the Jardines del Maestro Fernando.

Yeste

Another of the most striking villages in the province of Albacete is Yeste. The Palacio de la Vicaría, in Renaissance style, and in which lived the vicars of the Order of Santiago, is one of the great attractions of the town.

On the other hand, it also highlights its castle, which is a medieval fortress of the eleventh century. It is of Arab origin and is located in the center of Yeste. In addition, inside you can see an ethnographic museum. Its visit is really worthwhile because it is one of the best castles in Albacete.

Jorquera

Jorquera is one of the most impressive villages of Albacete if seen from the heights, as it is located on a meander in the Júcar river, hanging over a cliff. . In addition to its privileged location, in this town you can enjoy several places of interest, such as its 12th century Almohad wall, from where there are wonderful views.

Another site to visit is the Church of La Asunción, which is Gothic in style and whose construction dates back to 1577. To finish the visit, you can see the Sanctuary of the Virgen de Cubas, patron saint of the town, which has the particularity that it is carved into the rock.

Alcaraz

Within the list of the most beautiful villages of Albacete could not miss Alcaraz. It is located in the Sierra de Albacete, specifically on the hill of San Cristobal, and its Plaza Mayor is the main protagonist, where most of the most important buildings of the town are located.

Among these monuments are the town hall, the Lonja del Corregidor and La Regatería, as well as the Church of the Holy Trinity. Next to it is the Torre del Tardón, of Gothic and Renaissance style, forming the most iconic postcard of Alcaraz.

Alcalá del Júcar

Alcalá del Júcar is one of those towns that seem to be taken out of a fairy tale. It was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1982 and since then it has been one of the most visited towns in Albacete. Its castle is one of the great tourist attractions of the place. It is of Arab origin and dates from the 12th century. It can also be visited inside and from there you can get views of the whole town.

Other interesting monuments in Alcalá del Júcar are the Church of San Andrés Apóstol, the Devil's Cave, the Roman bridge and the Cinema Museum. Finally, if you want to see the town from the outside, on the road you will find several places where you can park your car and enjoy the views of the town.

Nerpio

Located in the Sierra de Segura, Nerpio is another of the must-see villages in the province of Albacete. The more than 40 sites, such as the Torcal de las Bojadillas or La Solana de las Covachas, where there are cave paintings, which are declared World Heritage Sites, stand out.

In addition, to continue enjoying its natural environment, you can follow the Zarzalar Route or the Route of the Centennial Walnut Trees. The reservoir and the Taibilla castle are two other magical places that can complete the visit to Nerpio. Undoubtedly, it is an ideal place for active tourism in Albacete.

Almansa

The name of Almansa may sound familiar to more than one because of the famous battle of the same name. Visiting its castle, whose interiors it is possible to know, you can imagine how it would be a dispute of that style in the Muslim era. It is located on the Cerro del Aguila and dates from the 13th century.

Other sites of interest are the Hermitage of San Blas, the Museum of the Battle, the Palace of the Counts of Cirat or the Church of the Assumption, which is in the Plaza de Santa Maria. On the outskirts you can visit the Almansa Reservoir or the Sanctuary of Belén.

Riópar Viejo

Between the Sierra de Alcaraz and the Sierra de Segura, Riópar Viejo is known as the town of tombs. This is because in its castle there are a large number of tombs, in addition to those in its cemetery. It is currently an abandoned village, but you can visit its remains.

In addition to its castle, there are several viewpoints, a fountain and a cave that are interesting. However, what has best survived the passing of the decades has been the Church of the Holy Spirit.

Chinchilla de Montearagón

This town with such a curious name is a medieval town that has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site. Getting to Chinchilla de Montearagón is very easy, since it is only 13 kilometers from the city of Albacete. It is also known for its Festival de Teatro Clásico Ciudad de Chinchilla.

As for monuments, its castle has a lot of history behind it, as Iberians, Romans and Arabs passed through it. There are also many religious buildings such as the Church of Santa María del Salvador, the Convent of Santo Domingo, the Convent of Santa Ana and the Hermitage of San Antón.

Ayna

In the Sierra de Segura, next to the Mundo River, is Ayna, one of the most beautiful villages of Albacete. Other outstanding places in Ayna are the Arroyo de la Toba waterfall, the Castillo de la Yedra, the Balcón de Los Picarzos and the Niño cave. A few kilometers away is Alcadima, a semi-abandoned village that can be reached by a trail.

La Roda

Known throughout Spain for the famous miguelitos de La Roda, it is also a town with a lot to show. Strolling through its Manchegan-style streets is a pleasure while observing its emblazoned houses. Pedro Carrasco Street and the Esquina de Alcañabate are good examples of this.

To complete the visit you can see the Palace of Doctor de La Encina and the Palace of the Counts of Villaleal. The hermitage de San Sebastián and the Posada del Sol are other popular sites in La Roda.

In short, taking a route through the most beautiful villages of Albacete means soaking up its history, enjoying its streets and castles and marveling at its natural surroundings. For those who still do not know this area, you already have eleven good reasons to discover it.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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Charming towns of Toledo

Consuegra, a quixotic setting

The footsteps of Don Quixote can be traced throughout the province of Toledo. In fact, Consuegra is where some of those giants the errant knight may or may not have faced stand. The municipality has conserved 12 windmills aligned on a ridge known as the Cerro Calderico with the contours of the Muela Castle in the background. Consuegra contains other treasures including the Edificio de los Corredores, the parish church of Santa María la Mayor and a first-century Roman dam.

Anytime is ideal to visit this picturesque town, though two events transform its streets every year. One is Consuegra Medieval, a reenactment commemorating the battle that took place there on 15 August 1097, in which El Cid’s son was killed. The other is the Feast of the Saffron Rose held at the end of October.

Ocaña, gateway to Castilla-La Mancha

Ocaña is known for its splendid porticoed main square, a baroque-inspired design built during the reign of Charles III. However, one of the province’s most spectacular constructions can be found just outside the town. The Fuente Grande is an extraordinary feat of hydraulic engineering dating to the reign of Philip II.

The fountain consists of an enormous gallery with various water jets, two washing areas and troughs. Its Renaissance style, like that of the Escorial Monastery and the Royal Palace at Aranjuez, were all works carried out by Philip II’s preferred architect, Juan de Herrera.

Ocaña also deserves recognition for being one of the province’s marvels due to its devoutly celebrated Easter week ceremonies. Indeed, it has earned the designation of Fiesta of National Tourist Interest.

Tembleque and its porticoed square

Not only is Tembleque’s main square one of the largest in the province, it is also one of the most breathtaking. A colonnaded square with latticed woodwork and hollowed vaults with a captivating turret at one of its entrances. Built in the 17th century, the square has been the venue for all types of celebrations and spectacles ever since. Today, its appearance is a reminder of those famed comedy houses of that period.

Tembleque’s one-of-a-kind architecture is its other charm. A walk through the streets of the old quarter will lead to the gothic church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and the baroque Casa de las Torres. On a hill top outside the town stand two fully-restored windmills dominating a characteristic Manchegan landscape.

Tracing Toledo’s history

Toledo’s Roman past at the Carranque Archaeological Park

Barely 40 years have passed since the fortuitous discovery of the ruins of the Roman villa of Carranque along the banks of the Guadarrama River. Shortly afterwards, excavations brought to light an authentic treasure in the form of a stately home complete with all the amenities of its time, including heating and running water. It is thought to have once belonged to Maternus Cynegius, a high ranking official of the Roman Empire and close confidant of Emperor Theodosius.

The splendid lifestyle of its inhabitants was not limited to its daily comforts, but also included a magnificent collection of mosaics covering the floors of the mansion’s rooms. These beautifully composed mosaics depict scenes from mythology and undoubtedly cost a significant sum.

Visigoth and medieval Guadamur

The castle of Guadamur is one of the most stunning and best conserved in the province of Toledo. The walls of this palatial fortress have borne witness to six centuries of history and to such illustrious residents as Joanna the Mad, Philip the Handsome, Charles V and Cardinal Cisneros. It even served as the involuntary dwelling of the scheming Princess of Éboli, whom Philip II had once incarcerated there.

Not far away lie the remnants of the Visigothic kingdom in Toledo at the Guarrazar Archaeological Site. This excavation site has proven to be a treasure-trove, which includes a splendid collection of votive crowns, gold crosses and precious gems. Its most impressive discovery, the votive crown of King Recceswinth, is now located at the National Archaeological Museum. Although the original pieces are no longer at Guadamur, replicas can be found at Guarrazar’s museum, the Centro de Interpretación del Tesoro.

Toledo’s astounding natural wonders

Burujón Ravines, a landscape from another planet

A landscape of gullies and cliffs rising as high as 120 metres overlooking the Castrejón Reservoir make up the Burujón Ravines. A topography of auburn hues moulded by erosion inevitably compared with the Grand Canyon in the United States. Though more modest in scale, the canyons of Burujón are a uniquely beautiful landscape rich in biodiversity.

Every corner of this fanciful natural setting can be explored thanks to a narrow trail skirting its cliffs and the many lookout points found along the way. For a heightened effect, wait until sunset to appreciate the sunlight’s intensifying effect on the reddish, dream-like tones of the terrain.

The wildlife of Cabañeros National Park

Although belonging to both Toledo and Ciudad Real provinces, Cabañeros National Park is undoubtedly the great treasure of this region. Walking trails leading to the Chica Waterfall and Rocigalgo Peak allow one to discover the flora and fauna of this diverse ecosystem. A splendid example of a Mediterranean forest where the autumn season brings the fascinating spectacle of bellowing deers.

Age-old art and traditions in the lands of Toledo

The ceramics of Talavera de la Reina

The ceramics of Talavera de la Reina are listed by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. An art form reaching its zenith during the Spanish Golden Age, these ceramics adorn countless corners of not only Toledo, but indeed the world.

Seeing firsthand the place where these ceramics originated offers a better understanding and a deeper appreciation for this art form. The Ruiz de Luna Ceramic Museum houses a fabulous collection of ceramic pieces dating back to the 14th century and the Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Prado is known as the Sistine Chapel of Talavera’s ceramic art. Just two reasons among many others to visit and discover this city.

Lagartera’s Feast of Corpus Christi

The intricately stitched and colourful embroidery of Lagartera is a genuine work of art. This embroidery has given form to one of the most elaborate and best-known regional attires in all of Spain. The Feast of Corpus Christi is not only an opportunity to display these garments, but also to highlight elegant altarpieces which are decoratively placed at the front doors of local homes.

Members of the Vera Cruz Brotherhood dress in their best regalia to accompany the Holy Monstrance during their processions. A display of devotion, art and tradition dating from 1590. This uniquely multicoloured celebration is one of Toledo’s marvels. In fact, it is a designated Fiesta of Regional Tourist Interest and its exceptional embroidery enjoys Cultural Heritage status.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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300 sleeping volcanoes in an active zone

As already mentioned, the volcanoes of Campo de Calatrava extend over a great territory that extends to more than 5,000 square kilometers in the province of Ciudad Real. Its activity began to develop millions of years ago, specifically 8.5 million years ago, but the last eruption took place just 5,000 years ago. As it is considered a recent activity, the volcanic buildings can be observed with their original morphology.

The volcanism of Campo de Calatrava is related to the uplift of the Betic Cordilleras and the displacement of the Eurasian and African plates. It can be distinguished, on the one hand, the type of Strombolian volcanism, which originated small conical volcanoes, currently rounded hills whose diameters range from 100 meters to two kilometers. But the most frequent volcanism is hydromagmatic, which gives rise to volcanic depressions that are difficult to distinguish on the ground. They are called maars, wide and low volcanic craters that are usually filled with water. In the rainy season they gather a rich and varied biodiversity.

In addition, half of the volcanoes are considered extremely dangerous in the event of an eruption, since the magma would come into contact with the groundwater of the aquifers, which would release an immense amount of energy. This area is a dormant but active zone, having experienced eruptive episodes less than 10,000 years ago. In any case, it is not expected that any of the 300 volcanoes will wake up in the near future.

Getting to know Campo de Calatrava

What can be observed are phenomena linked to this volcanic feature. For example, the appearance of geysers, a special type of hydrothermal source that periodically emits a column of hot water and steam. In recent years, they have been seen in places near towns such as Bolaños de Calatrava or Almagro.

The main center of interest in Campo de Calatrava is the Cerro Gordo volcano, in Valenzuela de Calatrava. It is of Strombolian type and stands out for being the first museumized volcano in the Iberian Peninsula. It can, therefore, be visited, although it will surely surprise those who do, because it is not the volcano that one has in mind. It is a small mountain that allows, by opting for a guided tour, to understand the history and peculiarities of these phenomena.

It also highlights the volcano and lagoon of Peñarroya, whose summit can be climbed to observe the crater and the lagoon of Las Maestras or Alcolea. It is a place of great beauty. For the curious, the first volcano in the area was the Morrón de Villamayor de Calatrava, while the youngest is the Columba, between Calzada and Granátula, which is 5,000 years old. Most of these formations have been protected as Natural Monuments.

All in all, a route through this Campo de Calatrava, through this volcanic province of Ciudad Real, is most interesting. Because of its general lack of knowledge, it is also most surprising.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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The cosiest corners in Guadalajara

Atienza

The review of the most beautiful villages in the province of Guadalajara begins in the Serranía, to the north. There stands Atienza. Populated since ancient times, there are remains of Celtiberian origin nearby. However, its peak came in the Middle Ages. For example, the Fiesta de la Caballada recalls how its inhabitants saved a very young Alfonso VIII from the Leonese troops that were pursuing him. Luisa de Medrano, a pioneering Spanish intellectual of the 15th/16th century, was also a native of this village. The whole place is dominated by the medieval atmosphere thanks to various churches, several of them with museums, and the fortress of the time. With large walls, the central tower, perched on a cliff, stands out in the latter.

Molina de Aragón

This crossroads between the kingdoms of Aragon and Castile always had a certain independence that allowed it to prosper. As a result of this border situation, the character of Molina de Aragón was forged. Its walled enclosure and castle overlook the village. The Aragonese monarch, Alfonso I, gave it its current form despite its Arab origin. Other highlights include the monastery of San Francisco, the Romanesque bridge and the church of San Gil.

Jadraque

Once again the main attraction of the place is its spectacular medieval fortress. Known as Castillo del Cid, it was one of the last to be built during this historical period. Due to the great relationship between the province and the story of El Cid Campeador it is often believed that the fort was related to this legendary figure. However, the name is due to the county of Cid, to which it belonged. The first Count was a relative of Cardinal Mendoza, who was responsible for rehabilitating the Jadraque enclosure. As a curiosity, during the 18th century the explosive meeting between the Princess of Ursinos and Isabel de Farnesio took place in this village. The former ended up in exile immediately, before the new queen consummated her marriage to Philip V in Guadalajara capital.

Albendiego

This mountain village is embedded in a valley, in the most northern part of the province. The local stone is the main protagonist of its constructions. Like most small villages in the province, the recent past of this municipality is very humble. Despite this, it has a real gem: the hermitage of Santa Coloma. The head is Romanesque, from the 12th century, with Mudejar elements. The result is a set of more curved apse and of an enormous beauty. A great plus that Albendiego has is that Condemios and Somolinos are a stone's throw away. In this way you can totally experience the Serrania de Guadalajara.

Cifuentes

One of the most famous nobles in Guadalajara's history was the Princess of Eboli. She was born in Cifuentes, where many references to her can be found. Located in the Alcarria, her monuments justify her inclusion in this list. The castle of Don Juan Manuel is due to the well-known writer of El Conde Lucanor and was built in the 14th century. Meanwhile, the church of Cristo Salvador and the hermitage of Los Remedios are its most beautiful temples. On the other hand, both the Upper Tagus and its springs, responsible for the name of the place, make up a perfect natural environment for hiking.

Sigüenza

The great village of the bishops stands out among the rest of the most beautiful villages in Guadalajara. From its cathedral and castle, prelates as important as Cardinal Mendoza carried out their machinations. These two monuments are the biggest in the place, but not the only ones. Throughout Sigüenza, accessible from the A-2 and close to Soria territory, there are many churches and landmarks that make the place a medieval town of reference. On the other hand, its cuisine, with roasts at the head, is among the best in the Serrania and the province. The nearby Barranco del Río Dulce Natural Park is a must.

Valverde de los Arroyos

If there were to be a focus of tourism in all of Guadalajara, this would be the area of the black villages. Although it is not unique to the province and can be seen for example in neighbouring Madrid, for example in Patones de Arriba, it does shine more brightly in Guadalajara. The most outstanding of these villages is Valverde de los Arroyos. There you can see the constructions made with slate. The dark houses and churches contrast with the green surroundings of the Serranía. If you are a mountaineer, climbing the Ocejón is a one-day route that validates your status as an Alcarreño. To the north, the Tejera Negra beech forest, a World Heritage Site, and the most important beech forests in Spain await you.

Brihuega

A key war scenario in the Battle of Guadalajara during the Civil War, Brihuega is now a beautiful village. Its best known feature is the lavender fields. During the flowering period, they dye the surroundings of the village with a violet colour. Walking through them was a peaceful activity for the inhabitants of Brihuega. Today it is a focus of first level influencers with great fame at national level. In the old town, the gardens of the Real Fábrica de Paños stand out, the interior is private. At the same time, the fortress of Peña Bermeja is in a great state of conservation.

Peralejos de las Truchas

The Alto Tajo Natural Park is home to many charming villages in Guadalajara. One of them is Peralejos de las Truchas, although Peñalén or Zaorejas could have been on the list. The old town is characterised by its traditional, humble appearance, with large houses and the church of San Mateo. From the town itself you can see the vertical orography that characterises this high course of the longest river in Spain. Deep canyons and curious rock formations allow the existence of such colourful landmarks as the Taravilla lagoon and the Salto de la Poveda.

Pastrana

Its medieval character was noted by Camilo José Cela himself during his Journey to the Alcarria. This village is very attached to the aforementioned Princess of Eboli. If she was born in Cifuentes, she died in Pastrana. It was in the Ducal Palace designed by Covarrubias, where she remained locked up for almost ten years. In addition, there are two important convents: that of San José, which was founded by Santa Teresa de Jesús, and that of San Pedro, associated with San Juan de la Cruz. Other landmarks that make the village one of the most beautiful in Spain in 2019, an honour that it shares with Atienza, are its collegiate church of La Asunción or the magnificent fountain of Los Cuatro Caños.

El Olivar

Very close to the Entrepeñas reservoir, El Olivar is a beautiful example of a village in Alcarria. Thanks to a correct planning, the aspect of this village responds to the traditional architecture of the Alcarria. Ochre tones and wooden beams dominate the whole of this unknown place. The main square and the church of La Soledad stand out, with an interesting interior. One must pay attention to the local olive oil, a good example of the one produced in this area of Guadalajara and which defines the appearance of a good part of the surroundings.

Riba de Saelices

There are many options for a visit to the Alto Tajo Natural Park. One of them is from the charming village of Riba de Saelices. A quiet and typical place with interesting places to see. The most important is the cave of Los Casares, in the valley of Los Milagros. It has one of the most important prehistoric engravings in Spain. It dates back to 30,000 BC. Fortunately, it offers visits, although you should pay attention to its opening hours before planning your trip. Not far away is Zaorejas, where it is worth going to the San Pedro bridge.

Cogolludo

The association of the villa with the Dukes of Medinaceli resulted in Cogolludo hosting its beautiful ducal palace. One of the first Renaissance in Spain, is a great example of the adaptation that was made of such style in the country. The proximity of the black villages makes it a good point of departure to visit them. As in the case of Hita, there are beautiful views from the remains of its castle. The church of Santa Maria is also remarkable.

Campillo de Ranas

Not far from Valverde de los Arroyos, slightly to the south, is another black village that is among the most beautiful in Guadalajara. Campillo de Ranas has a beautiful church and typical houses, but its surroundings are especially noteworthy. Nearby is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country, the Aljibe. The path that leads to it is a perfect hiking route for beginners. Also, in the reservoir of El Vado, in times of drought, you can see the remains of the village of the same name, which was flooded to create the reservoir. On the other hand, you can easily reach the Montejo beech forest in Madrid. On the way, there are small villages ideal for quick stops.

Zorita de los Canes

Although most know the last of Guadalajara's most beautiful villages from the nearby nuclear power plant, Zorita de los Canes is a great destination for a getaway. Firstly, it has a remarkable 9th century Moorish citadel. Although it is in ruins, it is well worth a visit. Its history is associated with the mythical Álvar Fáñez de Minaya, the companion of El Cid, and the Knights of the Order of Calatrava. On the other hand, nearby is Recópolis, a lost city founded by the Visigoths. You can see it, but you have to pay close attention to its opening hours and days. Finally, there are the surroundings of the Tagus and the remains of the 16th century stone bridge.

Hita

The hill of Hita defines the layout of the village of the same name. It has a pronounced conical shape, although its tip seems to be horizontal. This is due to the fact that the local castle used to sit there, of which hardly any remains are left today. In any case, the views from these heights are frankly impressive. Better preserved is the so-called Puerta de Santa María, the largest in the village. The importance of the Hita Jews is reflected in places such as the Plaza del Arcipreste. Meanwhile, the atmosphere is completed by the ruins of the church of San Pedro or the temple dedicated to San Juan Bautista. Also the good local cuisine. In any case, the best time for a visit is during its well-known Medieval Festival.

Almagro

Only 30 kilometres away from the capital city we’ll find Almagro, one of the most beautiful villages in Ciudad Real. Almagro stands out among other villages mainly for two reasons: the aubergines and the Corral de Comedias. The latter is one of the last traditional Spanish theatres of the kind. Moreover, Almagro has a remarkably old historical centre. More than 70 years ago, its main square was established as Conjunto Histórico (Historic Grouping) by the Ministry of Culture.

Villanueva de los Infantes

Thanks to its rich historical heritage, Villanueva de los Infantes was declared Conjunto Histórico as well. What is more, Villanueva belongs to the Spanish organisation called “Los pueblos más bonitos de España” (Spain’s most beautiful villages).

Another memorable aspect of Villanueva is the fact, as many studies suggest, this might be the exact place Don Quixote first departed from. Indeed, we’ll find different sculptures scattered through the village that pay tribute to this literary figure. Lastly, Villanueva also displays historical buildings like the Clergy House or the church of San Andrés Apóstol.

Puerto Lápice

Puerto Lápice is best known for being a place of passage for traders between Andalusia and Madrid. Its roots take us back to the 18^th century, a time where some of the beautiful whitewashed houses that we can see today were built; this architecture style is the distinctive signature of La Mancha.

We can’t forget to visit the traditional windmills that look like coming straight out of the novel written by Cervantes. All these charming spots, altogether with the main square, which was built like a corral de comedia, make this place a must-see village in Ciudad Real.

Campo de Criptana

Nevertheless, if you really want to visit the windmills who dared to fight Don Quixote, the place to go is Campo de Criptana; there are still ten of the legendary mills the courageous gentleman raged against. It’s also imperative to walk through the area of Albaicín, full of white walls and Arabic tiles. The granary of Campo de Criptana, which served as the headquarters of an agricultural bank during the 16^th century, is one of the region’s main attractions —and it has a museum inside too.

San Carlos del Valle

In San Carlos del Valle we’ll find one of the most striking churches in the whole region: the church of Santísimo Cristo del Valle. This building dates back to 1729, and it was designed to exhibit the power of the Spanish Crown. Thanks to this place of pilgrimage, which was declared a Cultural Heritage site, this 1000-citizen village is considered some sort of Vatican from La Mancha. Other monuments in San Carlos del Valle, such as its main square and the Casa de la Hospedería, have been declared Conjunto Histórico.

Viso del Marqués

We have already talked about famous literary sceneries, so now we’re going to discuss a more film-related spot. The palace of the Marquis of Santa Cruz, officially named a historical monument 80 years ago, was one of the locations where they shot the film Alatriste, based on the Spanish novels The Adventures of Captain Alatriste. The palace, which currently holds the navy’s archive, is an important landmark of the Italian Renaissance. Similarly, in Viso del Marqués we may also visit the chapel of La Virgen de los Dolores or the church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.

Almadén

Almadén is a small village in La Mancha with some interesting mining spots. In fact, its most appealing site is probably the mine of Almadén, which shut down in 2011. This mine, with more than 2000 years' antiquity, was so relevant that it’s estimated that a third of the world’s mercury came from here. In the late 18^th century, Almadén also witnessed the birth of the first mining school in Spain: Escuela de Minas.

Pedro Muñoz

We’ll have many treasures to discover in Pedro Muñoz, such as the historicist clock in the Plaza de España. The church of San Pedro Apóstol should also be noted here, as well as its Renaissance and baroque elements. If we keep walking down its streets, we’ll come across noble houses like Casa de los Fernández Cuéllar, Casa de la Paca or Casa de los Granero.

Santa Cruz de Mudela

This village in Campo de Calatrava, with slightly more than 4000 inhabitants, stands out for being at least 800 years old. Its religious legacy is vastly rich, since the Order of Calatrava left a remarkable trace there. Some of the most relevant buildings in Santa Cruz de Mudela are the church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and the shrine of Nuestra Señora de las Virtudes. The latter was also declared Conjunto Histórico.

Fuencaliente

In the mountain range of Sierra Madrona we’ll find this lovely village with whitewashed houses and streets, spreading down the Valle de Alcudia Natural Park. An element worth mentioning here is Fuencaliente’s hot springs, coming straight out of the ground. There’s a remarkable number of natural sources here to visit, like the source of Compadre or Pilar de los Burros.

Argamasilla de Alba

Last on the list, we have Argamasilla de Alba. Just next to the Guadiana river stands the castle of Peñarroya, a unique place one can visit for free. We started talking about Quixote and Cervantes, and our trip will come full circle in this village, where Cervantes was allegedly held captive in Casa del Medrano. Therefore, it’s in this prison that the author began to write one of the most important narratives in the history of literature, regarded as the first modern novel, which still remains relevant nowadays and makes us fall in love with it every time.

The town-cave

Alcalá del Júcar, Albacete, is located in the Hoz del Río Júcar. It is located on a rocky slope between its castle and its river. It has streets that connect many houses drilled in the natural caves.What to see in Alcalá del Júcar is the panoramic view from the castle; the entire route through the fortified cave of Agradén, the historical centre and other attractions mentioned in the section "What to see in Alcalá del Júcar" can take us one morning.

History of Alcalá del Júcar

Due to its location, which allows easy defense and has abundant water and fertile fields, it has been a populated place since ancient times. Its name of Arab origin Al-ka-la (castle) denotes the military character of this town, located in a wild place. The shortage of fountains dates back to its conquest by Alfonso VIII of Castile in 1213.

What to see in Alcalá del Júcar

The visitor's attention is drawn to the unity of style of its urban centre, made up of white houses attached to a huge rock. The houses hide inside deep caves that cross the rock to the other side of the Júcar. Their peculiarity lies in their ability to maintain the same temperature naturally throughout the year.

The town full of caves

Within the old town, the El Diablo and Masagó Caves are a must see in Alcalá del Júcar. They allow us to understand what it means to live in such a natural environment. They are cavities that were drilled at the beginning of the 20th century for uses such as dovecots and warehouses.

The oldest and most interesting is the Agradén Cave, one of the few known examples of a fortified cave. According to tradition, its easy protection and the comfort of its environment motivated the Moorish king Agradén to inhabit it. The cave was mentioned in 1221 by King Alfonso VIII himself, who was so linked to this town in Albacete.

The visit to what to see in Alcalá del Júcar is done through its narrow and steep streets, which ascend to the Castle (very restored). From there you can enjoy magnificent views of the gorge. Its origin would be linked to the Muslims. However, it would pass into Christian hands after the successful expansion of Alfonso VIII (1155-1214) over the Almohad domains. Its pentagonal tower, the product of low-medieval reforms, and its spectacular location are particularly noteworthy.

In front of the Alcalá del Júcar Castle, on the other side of the river, we find a singular bullring (1902). It is unique in Spain because of its location on the side of the mountain, which gives it an irregular configuration. It also hosted theatrical performances.

Three kilometres away is the Hermitage of San Lorenzo, which has stood on a promontory at least since 1579. It was rebuilt in the 18th century after the collapse of its dome and tower, giving the whole complex a curious classicist appearance. It includes paintings dated in 1805.

Must see

Useful information

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

39° 11′ 34″ N, 1° 25′ 45″ W

Distances

Albacete 64 km, Madrid 289 km

Elevation

596 m

Inhabitants

1314 (2013)

FESTIVITIES

The visit to this pleasant town is based on exteriors. Thus, what to see in Brihuega requires half a day. Once seen, one option is to go to Cifuentes and the Upper Tagus Natural Park. Towards the north there is the alternative of the Castle of Jadraque and Cogolludo. Finally, you can go down to Hita and the city of Guadalajara, capital of La Alcarria.

History of Brihuega

The origin is Celtiberian and under Roman rule it was known as Castrum Brioca. An important hunting ground, the town is mentioned as a place of rest for the King of Toledo al-Mamun. In 1072 it hosted Alfonso VI of Leon after he was defeated by his brother Sancho II of Castile.

In 1085, when Alfonso was already King of Castile and Leon, he conquered the Tajuña Valley. The following year he ceded Brihuega to Archbishop Raimundo de Toledo, who built his castle there. Already dependent on the archbishopric of Toledo, at the beginning of the 13th century its walls were completed and it received a charter. Later, in 1574 it passed into the hands of Philip II, thus abolishing the archiepiscopal lordship.

On December 9, 1710, the rearguard of the army of the suitor Charles of Austria was surprised in this area. He would eventually succumb after several assaults by General Vêndome's French-Spanish army. The fighting affected both the town and the castle.

Already in January 1823, the troops of the constitutional government of General Odalí attacked in Brihuega the contingent favorable to the absolutism of Ferdinand VII, commanded by the French general Bessières. The latter won. In March 1937 it was the stage for of the battle of Guadalajara. During the conflict, the People's Army of the Republic inflicted a heavy defeat on the Italian Fascist troops. Such resistance was remembered for years in the town.

What to see in Brihuega

A very important factory

The most outstanding building to see in Brihuega is the Real Fábrica de Paños. Located at the beginning of this tour, it cannot be visited at present. Founded in 1750 by Ferdinand VI as a branch of the Guadalajara factory, its aim was to revive the local economy after the War of Succession. With a circular shape, its Baroque door and the Versailles gardens stand out. Its viewpoint offers a great panoramic view of the village, the Tajuña and the Church of San Miguel.

Relaxing among history

Crossing the Arco de la Guía, we reach the Castle of the Piedra Bermeja. It is an eclectic work with elements of Arab, Romanesque and transitional Gothic style. Already inside the parade ground is the Church of Santa María de la Peña, a superb transitional Gothic work.

Another example of what to see in Brihuega is the Prado de Santa María, a place of great beauty and tranquillity. Also, the Hermitage of La Veracruz is remarkable. The Arab wall, almost two kilometres long, completes the city's defensive architecture. The Arco de Cozagón and the Puerta de la Cadena stand out because of their good state of conservation.

The main square, known since the 16th century as the Plaza del Coso, is another of the most important places to see in Brihuega. Here you will find the town hall. The building was renovated in 1975, replacing the one built by Ventura Rodríguez in the 18th century. For its part, the Royal Prison of Charles III can be visited and houses the Tourist Office. Likewise, the Arab caves were used in the past as an escape route and food store.

Given the important and ancient tradition of bullfighting in Brihuega, the bullring occupies a prominent place in the town. Inaugurated in 1965, it is known as "La Muralla". This is because it was built next to it, with a very similar material so as not to break up the architectural ensemble aesthetically.

Meanwhile, the Church of San Felipe is a notorious late Romanesque temple with a beautiful façade. Closing what you see in Brihuega is the Casona de los Gómez, a Renaissance house, or the Fuente de los Doce Caños. The complex demonstrates the success of the historic centre being declared an Asset of Cultural Interest.

To finish, the best thing is to remember what Camilo José Cela, Nobel Prize for Literature, said about Brihuega on his Journey to the Alcarria:

“Brihuega is charming because of its location, its surroundings, its noble appearance from the past, its historical memories, its artistic gems and the extremely friendly character of its inhabitants. It is so true that whoever goes to see it for the first time will surely return”.

Brihuega and its lavender fields

Around the month of July, Brihuega becomes purple with a celebration that takes place every year: the Brihuega Festival de la Lavanda, a celebration (musical and gastronomic) of the flowering of the approximately 1,000 hectares of extensive lavender fields. For the last few decades, they have encouraged the cultivation of lavender in the hills located a few kilometres from the city; and it is in July when they reach their maximum splendour.

The Festival

There is a dress code: wearing white clothes. It is advisable to wear comfortable shoes and something warm for the evening. In the festival, you will listen to music outdoors in the middle of the flowery fields on the road that leads from Brihuega to Olmeda del Extremo. After the concert, you will be able to enjoy a gastronomic offer based on buffet dinners or gourmet meals under the stars with the best dishes from La Alcarria.

Coordinates

40° 45′ 38″ N, 2° 52′ 9″ W

Distances

Guadalajara 33 km, Toledo 195 km, Madrid 90 km.

Parking

It is easy to park in the streets of the town as well as in the Plaza del Coso.

Elevation

894 m.

Inhabitants

2673 (2013).

FESTIVITIES

OTHER EVENTS

Besides, they will learn that this province has a wide variety of tourist and cultural attractions, like carpets filling the streets with colours, spectacular paths blending sculptures in the landscape, ancient monuments with many an interesting story to tell… Hence, on this journey we will look at the eyes of Albacete, a land we have yet to discover.

The best plans to explore Albacete

Visiting a winery with Denominación de Origen

If there is something those who know Albacete tend to highlight, it is probably the fact that it is a land of contrasts. The plains of La Mancha blend in with both mountains and rivers, or even deep, steep valleys and salt water lakes. We could not miss another colour in this province’s palette: the purple shades of the vineyards. Indeed, in the mid-20^th century, vineyards occupied almost three quarters of Albacete. It is no surprise that enotourism is still a big attraction of the province.

Albacete keeps five wines with Denominación de Origen (DO): D. O. de la Manchuela, D. O. Jumilla, D. O. Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, D. O. Almansa and D. O. La Mancha. Denominación de Origen de la Manchuela, to the north-east of the province, lies between the Júcar and the Caribel rivers, and it was recognised as such in 2000. They all offer different activities for wine lovers, like visiting wineries, wine bars, wine museums, etc.

Visiting the cave of Montesinos, straight from the Quixote

The mancomunidad of Sierra de Alcaraz and Campo de Montiel, altogether with the municipality of Ossa de Montiel, keeps a small hole on the ground. Dark, mysterious and narrow, this cave is famous for having staged the magnum opus of Cervantes: Don Quixote. Montesinos is a karst cave with a depth of 18 metres, and home to a remarkable colony of bats. The cave of Montesinos lies next to the lagoons of Ruidera, which renders it a good first stop for visiting the natural park later.

The sawdust carpets of Elche de la Sierra

Year after year, every Feast of Corpus Christi, Elche de la Sierra wakes up dressed in bright colours. 30 sawdust carpets dominate the streets: 30 artworks with religious or geometrical themes that turn Elche into a giant open-air canvas for a few hours. However, short after their creation, the Corpus Christi procession will walk over them, sweeping away the illusion.

This event is called Fiesta de las Alfombras de Serrín de Elche de la Sierra (“Feast of the Sawdust Carpets of Elche de la Sierra”), and it first started in 1963, when a citizen of Elche learnt about the flower carpets they created in Barcelona for another festivity called La Octava del Señor. The carpets are created on Saturday night and they step on them the next morning, even though they actually start working on them months prior to the event. It is a National Tourist Festivity that gets more original every year, and one of the best plans to enjoy in Albacete.

The taste of Albacete and its haute cuisine restaurants

As we said before, Albacete used to be a land of vineyards in the past. Therefore, wine is doubtlessly its star product. Another history-related activity in the province would be the one of the wool cattle, which has derived in some of the most typical dishes of Albacete: Manchego cheese and lamb. The migas ruleras, the famous miguelitos of La Roda, pisto manchego and the atascaburras are also typical dishes in the area.

With such a rich and varied gastronomy, there is a good number of haute cuisine restaurants in the province, some of which are after a Michelin Star. One of them received not long ago, in 2021, the record of the best ham croquette in the world. One can see and walk through Albacete, but tasting it is also an interesting way of experiencing the province.

Ornithological tourism in the lagoon of Pétrola

Even though this plan might not be as popular as the previous ones, visiting the lagoon of Pétrola is also an interesting thing to do in Albacete. Now we are talking about one of the most important salt lakes in the country, which stands out for its rich bird population. It belongs to the drainage basin of the Segura, in the comarca of Monte Ibérico-Corredor de Almansa.

The lagoon becomes a transit point for migratory birds in autumn and winter, whereas it is the perfect place for spotting Anatidae in spring. Besides, the lagoon of Pétrola is one of the few places in Spain where flamingos are born. For all these reasons, it is not allowed to sail there.

To “dar la turra” in the Carnival of Tarazona de la Mancha

Cardoard boxes on the head, cloths masks in the face, and in one’s hand, weird… fly swatters? A group of people walks wearing this costume through the streets of Tarazona de la Mancha. They get close to different people, and what they do is “dar la turra”: that is, they annoy everyone. This tradition has prevailed in the Carnival of Tarazona de la Mancha since the Middle Ages. These strange costumes known as “mascarutas” are the traditional costume of the celebration, although everyone can really dress as they please.

A journey to the past in Tolmo de Minateda

We have already mentioned the cave of Montesinos, but actually, the most important archaeological site in Albacete is the Tolmo de Minateda Archaeological Park, which keeps the precious cave paintings of Minateda and Tolmo de Minateda. Experts believe that the paintings date back to 5000 BC, whereas the archaeological site of Tolmo de Minateda was inhabited since the Bronze Age until the 10^th century. This ancient building complex rests on top of a spectacular rock from which one can observe the roads connecting Albacete, Murcia and Alicante.

In addition, visiting Tolmo de Minateda provides an excellent chance to explore the municipality of Hellín, the second most populated one after its capital. Here, the visitor will find an old town from the reign of Al-Andalus that emerged surrounding the hill of the castle. Nearby we will find the volcanic plug of Cancarix, a natural monument that is considered the best example of a volcanic pipe in Spain.

The route of the sculptures in Bogarra

Once a year, the municipality of Bogarra in the mountain range of Segura holds an interesting sculpture event that attracts artists from many different places. Those days, the sculptors leave their traces on a path that spreads along the Madera river. Apart from said sculptures, the traveller will be able to admire Charco del Cojo, a natural pool that is perfect for swimming on hot summer days.

The route is smooth, without slopes, and it is only 1,5 kilometres long; hence, it can easily be enjoyed by kids and families. Nevertheless, the route of the sculptures can also be longer: we can go on for eight and a half kilometres until we reach the waterfall of Batán de Bogarra. All this itinerary belongs to the trail of GR67, which connects the towns of Hellín and Riópar.

Active tourism in Albacete

We could not possibly end this list without discussing all the different ways one can enjoy active tourism in Albacete. They are just infinite. As we already said before, Albacete is a land of contrasts; consequently, its land adapts to a different activity in every area, because active tourism is inevitably linked to the setting. This way, the quiet water of the lagoons of Ruidera provide the perfect scenery for kayaking, whereas the wild streams of the Júcar and the Segura invite us to go rafting or canyoning.

The mountain range of Yeste, in the Calares del Mundo y de la Sima Natural Park, makes up the perfect landscape for biking or caving. The swamp of Fuensanta also stands out in this area. In fact, its turquoise waters are constantly crossed by sailboats and kayaks. As for climbing, this activity is particularly popular in places like Aýna. Of course, we also have plenty of routes for hiking. All in all, active tourism in Albacete is a rich as all the other kinds of activities one can enjoy there.

This article was written in collaboration with APEHT.

Albacete is a transit point, but it is also a place to stay in, to see cave paintings like the ones in the cave of Minateda, to walk through natural landscapes like the source of the Mundo River or to visit such old buildings as the aqueduct of Albatana, of Roman origin. In these lines, we will take you through a three-day route where we will explore the most beautiful corners of the most underrated provinces of Spain. First stop: the valley of the Júcar River.

Three-day route through Albacete, day 1: the valley of the Júcar River

With a length of more than 500 kilometres, the Júcar River is born on the hill of San Felipe, in the province of Cuenca, and it flows into the Mediterranean Sea in the province of Cullera. There is a section near the comarca of La Manchuela where the river follows a 90º curve and changes direction eastwards. This is where the stream creates its deepest meanders, between Jorquera and Alcalá de Júcar. There we can find the stunning valley of the Júcar River. 

Alcalá de Júcar, one of the most beautiful villages in Spain

An undeniable star of this lovely landscape is the village of Alcalá de Júcar, considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Albacete, or even in Spain. On one side of a slope, watching over from the heights stands the castle of Alcalá de Júcar, a fortress of Muslim architecture. On the other side, there is the river. And in the middle, the white houses with red tiles, which blend in with the landscape just as if someone had willingly placed them there. We cannot forget about the access point: the Roman bridge that is not actually of Roman origin. There is no better welcome. 

The streets of Alcalá de Júcar cross an old town that is full of interesting spots to visit: the shrine of San Lorenzo, the church of San Andrés, the square of the bulls… These streets take us to a cluster of houses carved in natural caves. Nowadays, many of them have been turned into leisure establishments. 

Hiking to gaze at the valley of the Júcar River

If we really want to enjoy the valley of the Júcar River, our visit should go beyond the village itself. We should go for a hike, either by bike or by foot. The options here are endless. The shortest alternative is known as the trail of El Corciolico, a circular path spreading for only five kilometres which is still quite impressive. This path starts and ends at the same spot, and it goes up the mountain slope until it reaches Casas del Cerro, where we can walk down crossing deep ravines. 

The path of Batán is longer, but also simpler. It goes on for 14,5 kilometres, crossing fields, pine forests, valleys and ravines. This route has perhaps the best the best views of the valley. Another path that will let us get to know the area is the route of Morrón, a path connecting the municipalities of Alcalá de Júcar and Tolosa along the river. 

Three-day route through Albacete, day 2: visiting the unique corners of the capital

Obviously, a route through Albacete had to involve a stop in its capital city, located midway between the valley of the Júcar River and the “Switzerland of La Mancha”—the third stop in our journey. One of the things that will surprise the traveller more is probably the wide range of cultural activities one can find in Albacete’s streets. 

Even though the cultural activities concentrate on the very famous Fair of Albacete, one of the oldest fairs in Spain, which takes place between the 7 and 17 of September in honour of the patron saint of the city: Virgen de los Llanos. During these days, the place known as La Sartén (“The Frying Pan”) is full of activities and stands celebrating the culture of Albacete. When the fair ends, the festivity is not over yet: the building is still there. La Sartén is, in fact, the only permanent fairground in the world. 

Nonetheless, La Sartén is not the only interesting place in Albacete. The traveller cannot leave without visiting the cathedral of San Juan Bautista. Its exterior looks might not be as impressive as other buildings of the kind, but its interior will not disappoint you. Moreover, the square of Altozano, the heart of the city, hosts a good deal of Albacete’s cultural elements: places such as the gardens of Altozano, a museum, the courthouse or the film archive. 

Likewise, another main attraction of Albacete is the Passage of Lodares, a commercial gallery of modernist architecture that was declared one of the most beautiful streets in Europe. A skylight with an iron structure and glass plates covers lines of thick Renaissance columns. Another modernist building that is worth mentioning would be Casa del Hortelano, which currently holds the Cutlery Museum. As we can see, modernism filled in with colours the streets of the city during the 20th century—another aspect of Albacete many seem to ignore. 

Three-day route through Albacete, day 3: the Switzerland of La Mancha

It has already been two days of exploring the landscapes of Albacete. Two days which have been quite different. By now, we have probably seen this place in Castile-La Mancha from a different perspective.  However, said perspective can change even more, since today’s schedule will take us to Aýna: the Switzerland of La Mancha. Comparisons might be odious, but this one has given Aýna a positive kind of fame. The film Amanece, que no es poco also contributed to its popularity. 

This film, directed by José Luis Cuerda in 1988, shot many of its scenes in Aýna: up to 14 of them took place in its streets. Some were recorded in other villages in La Mancha, such as Liétor, Los Molinicos, or the city of Albacete. Hence, one of the things to see in Aýna is a sculpture built in memory of this film. 

If the traveller should only have one day to spend in Aýna, perhaps they are only able to walk through the streets of the municipality, passing by great spots like the balcony of Las Mayas, the ruins of the castle of La Yedra or the church of Santa María de lo Alto, among others. Nevertheless, the Switzerland of La Mancha has many other corners to explore.

Located in the mountain range of Segura, deep in the gorge of the Mundo River, Aýna stands near places like the cave of El Niño, the greatest landmark of cave painting in Albacete, or the canyon of the Mundo River. Logically, the surroundings provide endless hiking adventures. Climbing and biking are other examples of the sports one can enjoy there. 

A change of perspective

The sun will rise in the morning like any other day. At night, when the golden star is already concealed, the stars will shine over Aýna like nowhere else; indeed, we will be admiring one of the clearest skies in Spain, according to Starlight. After this three-day route through Albacete, the traveller might see the province through a different lens now. Perhaps they have even come to the conclusion that it is a place worth staying in.

This article was written in collaboration with APEHT.

They were built six centuries ago. And, of course, they have so much history that on October 25, 2016 they were finally declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. They have a unique architecture thanks to their balconies that stand out from the rocky outcrop. Creating that feeling of floating, flying or hanging in the air.

The origin of the hanging houses

In his painting Cuenca from the East, the artist Anton van den Wyndaerde portrayed the Hanging Houses of Cuenca for the first time. It was 1565, and the three hanging houses that we can see today, are the only buildings that are still standing. They were built between the 15th and 16th centuries, although nobody knows for sure their origin. In fact, there is some disagreement among experts about this fact. Some say that the hanging houses in Cuenca are of Muslim origin and others, medieval.

Eight of the hanging houses lasted until the 1920s. There are even photos from the 19th century which show the constructions practically the same as in the painting mentioned above. But due to the destruction of the heritage, it was the town council that decided to buy the only three remaining ones in the 1960s to avoid their total loss.

To get to them if we are sightseeing, the most interesting route we can take is by crossing the also mythical San Pablo Bridge. Also built in the 16th century, it is another of the city's landmarks. Although it was eventually demolished after 200 years, it was rebuilt in 1903 in the way we can see it.

Its Gothic architecture

Its architecture is very similar to that of other buildings in the city. But even so, there is none that resembles it in spectacularity. The Hanging Houses of Cuenca have a Gothic style, with pine beams, masonry and plaster mainly. If we look at the façade, we can see the ashlar decorations, apart from the characteristic grilles on the balconies. However, the curious thing is that the hanging balconies were built much later than the house itself. It was in 1927 when they were installed and became a reference point.

Although the Hanging Houses in Cuenca are perhaps the most famous in this type of architecture; the truth is that there are more similar examples in Spain. The most significant are perhaps those in the Tajo de Ronda. Although we can also find similar ones in Albarracín, Girona, Frías or Cantavieja. And, of course, if we travel to Italy, we can enjoy the houses hanging from the Puente Vecchio.

Curiosities about the Hanging Houses

One of the most famous curiosities tells that they are called the Houses of the Monarchs because it was where the monarchs stayed on their visits. And although they were known to house kings, they were a place of refuge for poor people for many years. Such was their fame that even the Mint used the Hanging Houses. It did so to print them on a coin of the old pesetas, even today there is a collector's edition. As for the House of the Mermaid, there is a legend that has been told since the 16th century.

The protagonist is Catalina, a beautiful lady from Cuenca, who became pregnant by Infante Don Enrique. The latter would later become King Henry II of Castile. He imprisoned Catalina and her son so that no one would know, until he had his son killed. Legend has it that Catalina cried out for her son until one day she threw herself down the gorge unable to bear the pain. The inhabitants of Cuenca said that even after she threw herself, she was still heard. And that those cries resembled the cry of a mermaid.

Although this is not the only legend that exists around these dwellings. In another, it is said that a nobleman met his lover in one of the Hanging Houses. When they were in bed they were surprised by his wife who started to scream. Not knowing what to do, he hit her on the head with a cauldron, ending her life. Having made the situation worse, it only occurred to him to throw her out of one of the windows. And even today, it is said that her ghost wanders around those houses.

The Hanging Houses today

It was at the beginning of the 20th century when the town council bought the three Hanging Houses that were still standing. These were The Mermaid's House and the two Monarchs’ Houses. They wanted to avoid their destruction as had already happened with the previous ones. For some time now, the Mermaid's House has even housed a restaurant in the annexed part of its interior. This happened in the 90's and later reforms were planned to improve it. In 2017 an extension was planned to open a new inn, but it has not yet been completed.

In 1966 what is still the biggest attraction apart from its own structure was inaugurated. This is the Museum of Abstract Art, the idea and execution of the artist Fernando Zóbel. Who, curiously enough, is also the painter after whom Cuenca's station is named. Reforms were made in 1976, 1994 and 2016 to improve the facilities with the aim of increasing the number of exhibitions. It currently has more than 1,500 works that are included in paintings, sculptures and printed graphic works.

An average of 40,000 people visit the museum every year. At the moment the site offers both permanent artists and temporary works of art. It is open to the public and is completely free. In addition, special exhibitions and conferences with artists are usually held. A place to keep and admire abstract art, within a classic work of art.

More than a decade ago, Castilla-La Mancha paid tribute to this legendary novel by creating the Don Quixote Route, which goes through all the different places where Don Quixote and Sancho landed on their adventures. Even though there are many different ways of approaching this route, and many days to spend walking through its paths, we will sum it up to you as if it were a weekend getaway. Thanks to this trip, we will be able to actually see the most emblematic spots in the founding work of Western literature, such as the windmills or the village of his beloved Dulcinea.

The history of the Don Quixote Route

Anyone who has ever read Don Quixote has probably asked themselves how would all those sceneries actually look like, since reality and fantasy blend together in Cervantes’ fiction. Just like the psychology of his endearing knight errant, Cervantes was able to describe La Mancha in a unique, fascinating way, devising an anecdote for every village, and this way entering the international cultural landscape.

That’s probably the main reason why the government of Castilla-La Mancha created this itinerary. The Don Quixote Route spreads through 2500 kilometres, and it threads 148 different municipalities. It’s estimated to take 10 days or sessions, and it’s also perfect for a road trip, although there are other alternatives due to its great demand.

The route passes by well-known villas, livestock trails, paths drenched in history and nature reserves. Doubtlessly, this is a dream experience for those that love rural tourism and might want to explore La Mancha in a different way.

Must-sees in the Don Quixote Route

As we already mentioned before, the original itinerary was meant to spread for 2500 kilometres and it’s expected to take a week or so to finish it. Nonetheless, the fact that it was declared a Cultural Route of the Council of Europe made it possible for the route to adapt to the needs of all kinds of tourists. Hence, one can visit the most relevant and emblematic spots in regards to Cervantes’ epic novel in only two days.

Toledo is one of the starting points they suggest for undertaking the Don Quixote Route. This historical city, apart from encompassing the three main cultures in the Middle Ages, is also a key point in the lore of Don Quixote. For instance, we can visit a small window that is connected to the Spanish writer. To the north of the city, in Esquivias, we may also find a historic house museum dedicated to Cervantes. All these little references make up the perfect place for starting our journey.

Only an hour away from the capital city of Castilla-La Mancha, we will reach Consuegra. Considering they are still the main attraction of the place, most people go there to see the emblematic windmills that Don Quixote mistook for giants before the puzzled eyes of Sancho. Nowadays, one of them, called “el Bolero”, can be visited all year round.

After spending the day in Toledo and its surroundings, and watching the sun set on the famous windmills, on the second day we will travel 30 kilometres to stop in El Toboso. This village is full of little details and references to the love of Quixote’s life: Dulcinea del Toboso. We can even find there the Dulcinea Museum, and there are statues in the main square depicting the literary couple.

To end this journey with a good feeling, our last stop will be Argamasilla de Alba. This village is more or less 50 kilometres away from El Toboso, and definitely a must-see place in the route. In fact, many believe this is the place that inspired Cervantes to write his magnum opus. Most likely, the sentence “Somewhere in la Mancha, in a place whose name I do not care to remember” refers to this village. But why would that be? Well, the truth is, that here lies the cave of Medrano, the actual cave where Cervantes was held prisoner for months.

A slice of gastronomy in the Don Quixote Route

The fascinating Don Quixote Route is a great occasion for getting to know Castilla-La Mancha. Even better, we can use it to taste the region’s most emblematic dishes. Cervantes’ novel makes multiple references to some of those dishes which can be found throughout the route. Besides, it’s nice to appreciate the traditional dishes of the area, where agriculture and farming blend into a unique gastronomy.

One of the dishes that stands out in this novelesque gastronomy is “duelos y quebrantos”, whose main ingredients are eggs, chorizo, and bacon. We can’t forget to mention “migas manchegas” either. However, the ultimate stars here in La Mancha are cheese and wine, and both of them can be found in dairies and wineries all over the route.

The Pasaje de Lodares was designed in 1926 by the Valencian architect Buenaventura Ferrando Castell and built by Gabriel Lodares. The intention of this politician and landowner from La Mancha was to create a luxury commercial and residential gallery like those in Milan or Naples. Today, it is one of the only three Modernist galleries in Spain, together with those in Valladolid and Zaragoza.

It became a genuine temple of commerce that exuded ostentation and elegance. Today it is still the most unique building in Albacete and one of the most photographed places by its visitors. The passing of time has meant that the Pasaje de Lodares has adapted to new forms of business while the craft workshops that occupied the gallery from its beginnings have disappeared. They now house clothes shops, cafeterias and even a lottery office, as well as residential housing.

Elegance and exuberance at the same time

Pasaje de Lodares is a landmark for its architecture and concept. It is built in the form of a large gallery; configured by forty-four Ionic columns and twelve pilasters on which a three-storey façade and attic sit. Its harmony and distinguished character make this passageway one of the most elegant and stately streets in all of Albacete.

But there is no more extraordinary feeling for the visitor than the exuberant decoration provided by the glass skylight that covers the building. An image that leaves anyone speechless. One of the factors that contributes most to its photogenic nature.

Pasaje de Lodares continues to be an icon for Albacete today, as well as being the great protagonist of the modernisation of the city during the 20th century. This monument thus reflects the European trend of the Belle Époque and the typology of Italian commercial galleries.

The historicist modernism of Pasaje de Lodares

The building is described as modernist because it has some decorative elements of this artistic trend that emerged at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Modernism attempts to create a new art form that breaks with the dominant styles of the time: the academicians, impressionism and realism. It is predominantly inspired by nature while at the same time incorporating innovations derived from the industrial revolution, such as steel and glass.

In any case, defining the architectural style of the Pasaje de Lodares is a little more complicated than it seems. In addition to the characteristic elements of Modernism, a number of other different styles mixed together complement this base. At the end of the 19th century, it was a widespread custom to accumulate decorative elements from other earlier styles in new buildings. It could therefore be defined as a historicist building of a post-modernist nature.

In fact, in Albacete there was a great construction boom in the first three decades of the 20th century with buildings of a modernist, postmodernist and eclectic nature. Until then, the city lacked a clear architectural tradition. It was the bourgeoisie, as a group of power, who promoted and marked all the architectural guidelines that were implemented. Albacete was enveloped in a wealth of influences from Madrid and Valencia that can be clearly seen today.

The facade that challenges the symmetry of the building

Symmetry acquires a special dimension when talking about Pasaje de Lodares. The whole work has a measured sense of rhythm thanks to the Renaissance columns and balustrades; as well as its sculptures. However, there is something that stands out in its exterior façade and that does not go unnoticed by anyone.

The building overlooking the Calle Mayor is much smaller than the one on Calle Tinte. While the latter offers a majestic symmetrical façade composed of four axes, the Calle Mayor has only two axes. The difference is particularly striking and it slightly disrupts the balance enjoyed by the rest of the building.

The reason for this difference is hidden behind a little anecdote. It seems that the owner of the house in the Calle Mayor, where today there is a pharmacy, refused to sell his plot to Lodares; so the project was conditioned from the beginning. This not only affected the exterior facade, but also the interior premises which had to be made to fit into a much smaller space than the other. However, the Valencian architect never abandoned the symmetry of the building and managed to ensure that the smallest wall also enjoyed elegant harmony.

What the caryatids of Pasaje de Lodares hide

When you enter the interior of the site it is easy to be amazed and at the same time overwhelmed by its decoration; as there are many details to be seen in order to acquire a complete view of the work. But if there is one thing that cannot go unnoticed, it is the four Greek figures sculpted as columns; known artistically as Caryatids and Atlanteans. These contemplate the true meaning or, rather, the intention that Gabriel Lodares had when he built this magnificent gallery.

The two Atlanteans that appear at the end of the site are male figures and represent the goods of the countryside and industry, in terms of Lodares' status as a landowner and its intention to market its agricultural products. While the caryatids, the female figures, represent the arts. The major and minor arts correspond to his ambition to build a huge and majestic building full of elegance. Under each of these four sculptures is the face of Mercury, the god of commerce.

All this iconography keeps the history of Gabriel Lodares and the passage that bears his name. And the fact is that its purpose was clear from the beginning; the Passage was meant to become the "cathedral" of trade in Albacete under the orders of the god Mercury.

Gabriel Lodares

Gabriel Lodares was a conservative agrarian businessman and politician, belonging to the agrarian bourgeoisie. He was one of the great fortunes of Albacete at the beginning of the 20th century. As a man faithfully dedicated to politics, he worked to improve the urban development of the city; first as mayor between 1900 and 1906. Then, he was a member of the Cortes in 1914 and as a senator of the kingdom in 1918.

He was the driving force behind emblematic works in the city such as the Pasaje that bears his name or the Gran Hotel de Albacete; another similar modernist construction. During his time as Mayor of the city, he completed the service of drinking water for the population; which led to his recognition as Adopted Son of Albacete in 1917. King Alfonso XIII also wanted to reward him by awarding him the Great Cross of Isabella the Catholic during her visit to the capital of La Mancha when the water service was inaugurated.

For many years, nobody accessed to the basement, and every king who ruled the different reigns of the city put a padlock on the door. However, Don Rodrigo was the first one who broke the locks in order to get the treasures. Inside the basement, he found a parchment with a drawing of strange men with crescent swords and turbans on their heads. This spot was the cave of Hercules and those drawings were the prophecy of the Muslim conquest. So, due to this, Don Rodrigo caused the end of ‘Toletum.’

A bit of history of the caves of Hercules of Toledo

This legend, above-mentioned, is based on the caves of Hercules, which are really significant among the inhabitants of Toledo. Besides, it is said that Hercules, the supposed founder of the city of Toledo, practised magical arts and necromancy here, but these are just legends.

In terms of history, what is known with certainty about the caves of Hercules is that they used to be under the church of San Ginés, until 1841 when the building was demolished. Previously, it is believed that there was a mosque here and, even earlier in time, it is said that there was a Visigothic temple. The entrance wall of San Ginés is preserved, where several Visigothic reliefs are embedded.

Furthermore, since the beginning of the 20^th century, the place was already considered to have Roman origins, although its function was still unknown. But, in 2004 the ‘Consorcio de Toledo’ promoted an archaeological investigation of the site of San Ginés and the caves of Hercules. Then, it was concluded that the caves were built in the 1^st century and were used as a water supply cistern in the Roman city.

Key facts of the caves

These caves are located in an alley called San Ginés, as well as this church of the same name. They are significant attractive spots for tourism and they were declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. Its scheduled is from Tuesday to Saturday, from 12.00 a.m. to 02.00 p.m. and 05.00 p.m. to 07.00 p.m. and you can visit for free. In its first room, there are many temporary exhibitions promoted by ‘Consorcio de Toledo’ and it is possible to access to the water supply by a spiral staircase.

This room was altered considerably at an undetermined time. The original construction was covered with large granite ashlars and the interior was divided in two by three arches, also made of granite. Over the two resulting naves, two vaults were built with blocks of white limestone, only one of which belongs to the ‘Consorcio de Toledo.’

The most interesting aspect of these caves are the mystery that surrounds them. Not only it is known the legend and history of Hercules, but also, it is said that they are connected to some subterranean galleries that reach to the outskirts of Toledo and widen to create large vaulted halls. In fact, there were some expeditionsm, which went into the caves of Hercules in order to find out how far the passages reached.

In 1564, Cardinal Silíceo ordered the cave to be explored. However, they came across a waterfall and decided to give up. Almost three centuries later, in 1839, a second expedition descended the waterfall and reached an ossuary. In 1851, some sappers discovered a subterranean room that we now know to be the water deposit. However, the question will always remain if there is something else behind the walls of the cave...

Special spots near the caves

The caves of Toledo are located in the centre of Toledo, really close to the cathedral, an amazing gothic temple. This is another fascinating monument that everyone should visit. However, there are a huge variety of monuments in this city, also known as the city of the three cultures, Muslim, Christian and Jewish. There are many other monuments that are a must, such as the ‘Alcázar’, the monastery of ‘San Juan de los Reyes’ and the synagogue of ‘Santa María La Blanca.’

Toledo is also well known due to its link with ‘El Greco’, specially thanks to a museum based on this artist. Nevertheless, its most popular work is located in the parish of Santo Tomé, which is ‘El entierro del señor Orgaz’, in English ‘The Burial of the Lord of Orgaz.’

It is important not to forget to mention the subterranean Toledo because under the capital of Castilla-La Mancha there is another hidden city full of labyrinths, galleries and legends. Some of these places are the Roman baths, the Cenizal baths, the Arab baths of the Angel or the dungeons of the Inn of the Brotherhood. Numerous tours organise visits to these hidden spots.

The history of this hermitage

An agreement was reached that has remained in place to this day because of the Virgin's insistence on staying at the hermitage. Therefore, the Virgen spends eight months in the hermitage, between September and May, and four months in the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Every time the statue is moved, a religious procession accompanied her.

It is known that the hermitage of Los Desamparados was built between the 16th and 17th centuries on a small hermitage, in other words, a very solitary place previously inhabited by a hermit. In the past, this hermitage housed the image of the ‘Cristo del Amparo’ (Christ of the Forsaken). Later, it was extended with the intention of giving shelter to ‘la Virgen de los Desamparados’ after those mysterious apparitions.

The keys of the hermitage

As previously mentioned, this spot is special not only because of its leyend, but also because of its location. The hermitage of Los Desamparados is located next to the river Guadiela, a few kilometres from the village of Buendía in Cuenca. There are two options for getting there. Firstly, you can leave your car next to a terrace and you have to walk a bit more than a kilometre to get there. The second option is a hiking route of a total of 12 kilometres, which starts at the Buendía reservoir and runs through the Enmedio and Santa Cruz Mountain ranges.

Both paths end at the same point: the hermitage of Los Desamparados. It is surrounded by a welcoming wide promenade next to the river. Before entering, the visitor is welcome by a wide promenade along the river. Benches, picnic areas and even toilets are part of this leisure area.

The church, set in a ravine, has an ashlar and semicircular doorway with a barrel vault nave. On the altar is the image of the Virgin, whose previous image was burned down in 1936. Its replacement image is not of great artistic interest. On the outskirts of the hermitage, you can reach the Colmenar de Morisco viewpoint, from where you can enjoy marvellous views of the surrounding area.

Spots near the hermitage

The village of Buendía, halfway between Madrid, Cuenca and Guadalajara, has a wide range of activities. Firstly, you can spend the day, before or after visiting the hermitage, having a walk around the village, which is considered one of the most beautiful in Cuenca. In its urban area, the Church of ‘Nuestra Señora de la Asunción’ and the ‘Plaza Mayor’ square stand out. Moreover, you can still see some fragments of the wall that surrounded it along its streets, which was built during the 15th century. Just at the southern entry to the town, you will find the caves of Buendía. Ancient caverns-cellars that nowadays are used as a meeting place for the ‘peñas’.

Another of the main attractions is the reservoir. It was built in 1958 and is located on the course of the river Guadiela, a tributary of the Tagus. Although its main function is obviously to supply water, the reservoir is also used as a leisure space. Fishing, bathing and kayaking or paddle surfing are its main attractions for visitors.

Finally, we could not forget mentioning 'la ruta de las Caras' (the route of the Faces), perhaps the activity that has given the town its greatest popularity. This is a route of barely two kilometres, which is accessible to everyone, located on the outskirts of Buendía, next to the reservoir. During this walk, you can find 18 sculptures and bas-reliefs carved in 1992 by the artists Jorge Maldadonado and Eulogio Reguillo.

A perfect place to spend the weekend

The hermitage of Los Desamparados is one of those places free of mass tourism that is a perfect destination to spend the day. Its location and its famous route are a plan yet to be discovered by many. Furthermore, it is close to several large population cities and there are many activities in the surrounding area. For all these reasons, we believe that this hermitage and its surroundings can be the ideal place to enjoy a good weekend.

Toledo at nightfall

Because of its characteristics, Toledo offers endless possibilities during the day that do not disappear when night falls, they only change. Then there is an opportunity to discover it under the light of the street lamps, with the buildings shining in a different way and the most hidden side of the city reveals itself.

That is what the night guided tours are designed for. These offer three possibilities to the visitor: a magic tour, a sinister tour and an underground tour through the city. The aim they have is to discover that mysterious Toledo, the one that stars myths, legends and ancient traditions that somehow are still present in the streets of Toledo. Witches, haunted houses, the meemory of the Templars and the mysteries that have made the inhabitants of Toledo hold their breath are told here in an entertaining and natural way, while touring a city where everything seems possible. Because of its medieval appearance and the aura that surrounds it, even the most incredulous will be seduced by the unsolved enigmas.

It is also great to discover the caves, galleries and basements hidden under the streets of Toledo, which show that the most incredible stories have taken place in this city. This route means to dive into the heart of Toledo's history.

Another fantastic place to discover when the moon shows up in the sky is on the other side of the river: the hermitage of the Virgen del Valle, where pilgrims make its journey every May 1st. The road is cut and thousands of people spend the night there. It can be visited at any time, but the ideal time is at night.

A beautiful panoramic view at night

From the city of Toledo itself you can enjoy viewpoints that allow you to watch imposing buildings such as the Alcazar or the cathedral shining with the perfect intensity to highlight but keep the mystery that characterizes them. Of course, the best image of the city is obtained from a distance.

To do this you have to cross the bridges that lead to the other side of the Tagus. From the Alcántara Bridge, the first picture already conquers, since Toledo is above the visitor's sight, and the Alcazar can be easily seen. It is already impressive from here, as it stars practically in every postcard taken from the wall.

But the most beautiful image, the most wanted and acclaimed, is taken leaving the city behind and following the road. You have to climb up to the viewpoint of the Valley, where, there, Toledo attracts all eyes. The play of light and darkness offers a unique view of the city, with its centuries-old buildings and the river define the place. Both the Alcazar and the cathedral tower stand out, whose 93 meters high have been crowning the sky since the 15th century. A postcard for lovers of night scenery.

Whether for its amazing nature, with jaw-dropping landscapes, or the fantastic rural atmosphere, at any time of the year it is fantastic to visit the most beautiful villages of Cuenca.

Belmonte

Located in the southwest of the province, Belmonte is a small town that stands out for a very well preserved medieval castle. It has been a fortress used for many films, so it is likely to be easily recognized.

It also highlights the Collegiate Church of San Bartolomé, a construction of Gothic style and great beauty. If the spectacular view offered by the castle is added to the tapestry of white houses with brown tiles that populate this town, Belmonte will transport you directly to another century in the history of Spain.

El Provencio

Strolling through the streets of El Provencio is very special. You don't have to be very attentive to see the large murals decorated with comic book characters. It is right in this town where the International Comic Fair is held, being a great opportunity to explore all these works of urban art.

Apart from that, El Provencio also preserves with history, such as the King's Bridge, one of the oldest in Cuenca, and the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, where you can sense the first traces of the Renaissance style.

Uclés

With barely 200 inhabitants, Uclés is one of the most beautiful villages of Cuenca thanks to its ninth century castle. Jews, Arabs and Christians have passed through it, absorbing from each of these religions some detail that can be appreciated.

Together with the monastery, dating from the 16th century, are two must-sees for lovers of architecture. In the latter, different styles are intermingled, so it can be even fun to know which element belongs to each of them.

Castillo de Garcimuñoz

First came the castle, then the town. Hence the origin of the name Castillo de Garcimuñoz, a beautiful and very well preserved citadel. Garcimuñoz was a knight who accompanied King Alfonso VIII during the 12th century, being the first owner of this fortified enclave of Cuenca.

You can learn all the history of this medieval fortress by entering its rooms, where you can also find the Church of San Juan Bautista. Nearby is the Cross of Jorge Manrique and what little remains of the Convent of San Agustin.

Alarcón

The castle of Alarcón has a very important strategic location, surrounded by the gorges of the Júcar river. This town, and its fortress, is a Parador Nacional, with one of the most wonderful views if you are looking for the perfect harmony between the medieval theme and nature.

It is also ideal for adventure sports, as the surroundings have ideal spaces for activities such as kayaking, canyoning and climbing. It has some very interesting hiking trails suitable for the whole family.

Priego

To the north of the province of Cuenca, and almost touching that of Guadalajara, is Priego. At a good altitude and surrounded by green mountains, it has a very interesting historical and cultural heritage. There are monuments of Arabic, Gothic and Renaissance style.

In Priego you can go from the beautiful Palace of the Counts to the House of the Inquisition, a space where macabre elements and stories related to this, so to speak, curious religious stage that was lived in Spain are exposed.

Buendía

Buendía's fame is due to the Ruta de las Caras, a tour of its surroundings where you can find a handful of faces carved in stone. As artistic as they are curious, it is possible to enjoy this visit while you have the Buendía reservoir in the background.

Besides being one of the reasons why Buendía is one of the most beautiful villages of Cuenca, all the natural scenery it offers invites hikers to enjoy a day as pleasant as quiet in the nearby forests.

San Clemente

For those who enjoy visiting the heart of the villages, the urban center of San Clemente is full of monuments. Walking through its streets you can contemplate Renaissance palaces, convents, the well-known Torre Vieja (Old Tower) and even a Roman Arch.

Apart from being one of the towns where the Renaissance of La Mancha is best represented, San Clemente also offers a magnificent opportunity to enjoy the gastronomy of Castile La Mancha.

Mota del Cuervo

Mota del Cuervo is known for being one of the towns in Cuenca through which the Route of Don Quixote passes. At the top of a hill there are several windmills, iconic elements offered by Cervantes' wonderful novel.

Thanks to some wetlands, Mota del Cuervo offers a very beautiful natural landscape. Some of them, such as the Navalengua wetland or the Manjavacas Lagoon, are fed by the Saona and Záncara rivers.

Enguídanos

With one of the most spectacular natural environments, Enguídanos is the perfect village to get lost in its green forest. Exploring it you can discover natural springs and pools, even beaches where you can bathe.

Walking a hiking route for a couple of hours and finding one of these to refresh yourself is a great reward for the effort. Thanks to this, it is one of the most interesting places in Cuenca for active tourism activities.

Ruinas de Moya

Moya is an abandoned village with a singular attraction. Without any inhabitant, you can enjoy a peaceful visit to the old town until the end of the last century and all the walled enclosure. Despite the abandonment, its castle fortress is very well preserved. Other buildings of interest are the church of La Trinidad and the town hall.

Toledo, the city of the three cultures

History of Toledo

Before discovering what to see in Toldeo, it is convenient to go over its history. The Celtiberian town of the Carpetany was installed in a hill that dominated the most predictable ford in all of the zone. The settlement created would become the capital in the year 192 B.C. the procouncil Marco Fulvio Nobilior defeated this town close to the city, that  was conquered the following year. Centuries later, it would become an important Roman municipality and a Episcopal headquarter.

A cause of the pressure from the francos, in the second half of the 5th century the Visigoths occupied the Iberian Peninsula. From the year 507, they moved their capital from Toulouse, south of France, to Toledo.Here they established the organs of the Government: the Oficio Palatino and the Aula Regia. During the year 589, in the III Council of Toledo, the reign changed Arian Christianism to Catholicism. Later, in 610, it converted its bishop into archbishop. This meant that he possesed authority over the rest, as to why he denominated as Primate of Spain. In these metropolitan headquarters, they would celebrate 12 councils. Also, a religious tradition began that continues to this day. The bishop of Toledo gains the title of Prime Cardinal.

Upon the 712 the Arabs took the capital of the Visigodan Kingdom, naming it madinat al-muluk. It would be the head of the so-called Marca Media, a great territorial constintuency in which the Caliphate of Cordoba integrated various cores or provinces. In the year 1023 an independent Taifa Kingdom was founded that would have three dinasty kings, These would fight in continuous wars withother Taifas and with the Christians, which they would end up paying fees in exchange for protection.

Later, in the year 1079, the King of Al Qadir made a decision that would mark the future of Toledo. Upon suffering stong internal fights and the severe harrasment from the Taifa Kingdom Badajoz, he ran away. His strategy consisted in asking for help to the king he was tributary to, Alfonso VI de León. During 1085, the Christian Monarchy conquered Toledo. Deciding to keep the core in exchange of Valencia. Like in other cities, one of the first jobs was to open the temples, and begin to build a cathedral over the Mosque.

From 1126, the archbishop Raimundo de Sauvetat organized a school in Toledo. In it, studious Castillians and stragers of the Christian, Jewish, and Muslim religion dedicated to translate Castillian, and then latin. Thanks to their work, important Arab texts of medicine, astronomy, and philosophy passed to form part of the occidental culture. This is why Toledo is known as the "city of the three religions".

It lost such condition when in June 1211 thousands of French crusader knights arrived. Their leade was the archbishop of Narbona. Outraged by the coexistence of Christians with the infidels, the Gauls assaulted the Jewishry, murdering the occupants. This was motive of a fight with King Alfonso VIII, who ordered the exit of the army. However, after handing over the forts, the French cruzaders insisted in murdering all Muslims. Finally, the King sent them back to France. This is the reason why only Castillians, Navarros, and Argans confronted each other the following year. This was the Battle of de Tolosa.

In June of the year 1520, the Toledo militia commanded by Juan de Padilla, assaulted the Alcázar and made the Mayor flee. With him, the common revolt that began in Segovia. Defeated by the movement and with Padilla executed, in April of the following year in Villalar, his widow María de Pacheco was leader of the city until February 1522, when she had to flee to Portugal.

In Spring 1577, the painter Domenikos Theotokopoulos arrived to Toledo. There he would love and work for 37 years, until his death. Due to the difficulty of his name, he was nicknamed El Greco. The genious left a large part of his work in the province and converted into one of the most influential artists of the Spain galleries.

What to see in Toledo

The visit of what to see in Toledo city begins with the monumental Puerta de Bisagra. This is the main entrance to the city, built by Covarrubias on the Arab walls. It can be identified by its imposing imperial coat of arms. An alternative access can be found in the roundabout of the Reconquest. There is a large car park from where you can take the escalator to La Granja. A simple way to overcome the slope of the hill.

The Mudejar-style Puerta del Sol takes its name from one of the drawings on its arches. The small and exquisite Cristo de la Luz Mosque also stands out. Together with the Mosque of Cordoba, it is one of the oldest in Spain and is one of the best things to see in Toledo. It dates back to 999 and, despite being reformed by the Christians, it maintains the Muslim style, its apse shining above the rest.

Towards the southwest you can reach the Church of San Ildefonso or of the Jesuits, whose main attraction is to climb the bell tower. From there you can access the roof and magnificent aerial views of the city from its very heart. Next to this baroque church is the Visigothic Museum, located in the old Church of San Román. It is one of the oldest buildings to be seen in the city of Toledo. Also of Visigothic origin, it suffered many later Muslim and Christian interventions. These include one of Covarrubias in the apse, from the 16th century. Its interior houses numerous objects, archaeological remains and Visigothic codices, including a reproduction of the Guarrazar treasure, found in Guadamur.

Jewish Quarter

Continuing towards the west, we cross the Jewish quarter. The destination is the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes. Commissioned to be built in commemoration of the Battle of Toro, it is one of the peaks of the Flamboyant Gothic or Elizabethan style. It was commissioned to the architect Juan Guas, being the largest building built by the Catholic Kings. In its rich decoration you can appreciate the influence of the Arab architecture. Meanwhile, on the cover, made by Juan Bautista Monegros on a Plateresque project by Covarrubias, you can see the chains of the Christian prisoners freed after the conquest of Granada.

Very close by, at the western end of the city, is the San Martín Bridge. It is one of the two historical bridges that gave access to the city. The other is the Puente de Alcántara, which is located at the other end of the city. In the same Jewish quarter there is another temple to be seen in Toledo: the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca (12th century). After many historical vicissitudes it shows its beautiful horseshoe arches and plasterwork. Not far from it is the Synagogue of El Tránsito, built around 1357 by Samuel Leví, the protagonist of a gruesome story. Inside, the impressive decoration and the Sephardic Museum are worth mentioning.

Continuing along the Calle de los Reyes Católicos you will reach the Casa Museo de Victorio Macho. It is the headquarters of the Royal Foundation of Toledo and houses the works of this contemporary sculptor. Almost next door is the House Museum of El Greco. Although he never lived there, it houses great works by the artist such as San Bernardino and Vista de Toledo. To complete the visit you can enter the neighbouring Church of Santo Tomé. This gives the opportunity to contemplate the extraordinary painting The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, about the miracle that occurred at the burial of the nobleman who paid for the construction of the church.

The next landmark to be seen in Toledo city is the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. In addition to, surprise, the City Hall designed by Juan de Herrera, there is the Archbishop's Palace and the Primate Cathedral. This extraordinary temple, a great monument to see in Toledo, has its own website. From here you can access the Calle del Comercio, where numerous establishments offer typical products such as Toledo's swords. Following this road you will reach Plaza de Zocodover. Its curious name comes from the cattle market that was held there, as in Arabic it means "Souk of the Beasts".

Next, it is time to enjoy the Santa Cruz Hospital, a building made mostly by Alonso de Covarrubias in the 16th century. This Renaissance construction has two cloisters and a Plateresque façade. It currently houses the Santa Cruz Museum. This space includes sections of Archaeology, Fine Arts and Decorative Arts, and several paintings by El Greco can be seen here.

Returning to the Plaza de Zocodover, and going up the slope of Carlos V, the magnificent Alcazar of Toledo appears. The colossal building is something to see in Toledo always, with due care. However, this can take about three hours. The fortification was built over previous ones to be the residence of Charles V. However, works were so slow that it never fulfilled such a function. Alonso de Covarrubias and Juan de Herrera participated in the project. After successive fires and its siege during the Civil War it had to be practically rebuilt. Today it houses the Army Museum, which reviews the military history of Spain. On the top floor is the Castilla-La Mancha Library, the second most important in the country, from whose cafeteria you can enjoy beautiful views of the city.

In this review of what to see in Toledo, the perimeter of the historic centre cannot be forgotten. This makes it possible to admire the remains of the medieval walls and gates such as the Puerta del Cambrón. The viewpoints of Los Cigarrales or the Parador de Turismo are, without doubt, ideal places from which to contemplate sunsets.

Outside the walled perimeter and opposite the Puerta de la Bisagra, right next to the road to Madrid, is the impressive Hospital de Tavera. It is the first large classical-style building, dating from the mid-sixteenth century, in Spain. Its beautiful rooms, the historical archive and the art collection of the Medinaceli Foundation make it one of the best places to see in the city of Toledo.

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Practical Data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

39° 52′ 0″ N, 4° 2′ 0″ W

Distances

Ciudad Real 117 km, Ávila 133 km, Cuenca 182 km, Madrid 71 km

Altitude

583 m

Inhabitants

83.459 (2016)

A small detail in a sea of monuments

In Toledo it is possible to visit a many monuments. In fact, the concentration of these is immense. In just a few square meters there are dozens. The cathedral, the monastery of San Juan de los Reyes or the Alcázar of Toledo, further away, are among the best known and also the largest. But Toledo is also a city inhabited by legends and curiosities. One of them is this window that does not have its own name, but which is undoubtedly famous.

The opening could easily go unnoticed to the eyes of tourists. Its dimensions are little larger than those of a cigarette box and many might walk by it without even thinking that it is a window. But it is and, in fact, it is even crossed by a bar that crosses it vertically and another that crosses it horizontally. Its function is a mystery, because right next to it there is a real window.

Who would choose to look out of this small square? Would anyone prefer to open this window rather than the other if it were too hot? These things are unknown, but what is certain is that the Guinness Book of Records, the highest authority on what nonsense to be the first or the most, granted this window a recognition that no other holds.

A resting place for Cervantes

In addition to its curious dimensions, the tiny skylight has one more peculiarity. On its lower part you can see an inscription in Arabic. The Toledo School of Translators believes that the meaning of this epigraph is Tulaytula, the Islamic name by which the capital of La Mancha was called in the past, although it is not something they are totally sure of.

The smallest window in the world is located, as already mentioned, on the facade of the Casón López, a building located in the historic center of Toledo, just a few meters from the Plaza de Zocodover. This restaurant was restored in 1973 and incorporated several newly created decorative elements. The most famous writer in the history of Spain, Miguel de Cervantes, ate and stayed in these walls on numerous occasions. He frequently traveled to Castile La Mancha as part of the route between Madrid and Andalusia. Right now the premises remain closed and in 2020 the installation of a hotel in the establishment was approved.

A mysterious origin for a surprising place

What makes Civica special is that it is a small vertical village excavated in rock. It is a surprising and unexpected place. It may remind us of the inhabited caves of Guadix, although the whole is very different. However, its functionality is still a mystery today, as it is not known with what intention it was built. That is why Civica can be considered one of the most interesting places in Guadalajara.

Its origin is tied to Don Aurelio, the priest of Valderrebollo, a town near Civica. It is said that this man inherited a piece of land in the place, a district of Brihuega. From 1950 to 1970, after mass, he went every day without fail, together with neighbors from other towns, to carve the rock. This is how they made passageways, pointed arches, doors, windows, columns and all the shapes that can be seen today.

It is also a mystery how a village priest managed to pay out of his own pocket and for so many years the wages of a team of workers to do such a big work. In addition, it is said that Don Aurelio always carried a black notebook in which he wrote down, as a diary, all the things he discovered inside his Civica caves. Many of them have not yet come to light.

Also, this spectacular place is surrounded by vegetation and several streams. It also has natural springs and waterfalls, which make Civica a corner with an extraordinary aura. Undoubtedly, this is a work in perfect combination between the action of nature and man.

The history of Civica

If we go back in time, it is believed that before Don Aurelio decided to carry out his work, the natural caves where his work is located may have been inhabited at different times. Among the population groups that may have lived in these hollows were hermits during the Middle Ages, Sephardic Jewish refugees, Sufis from Brihuega, Hieronymite monks or Templars after the dissolution of the Order of the Temple.

There are many legends about Civica, but one of the most repeated is that a young Moorish girl whose father punished her for falling in love with a Christian died locked up there. It is even said that her ghost appears from time to time waiting for her beloved knight to arrive to rescue her.

The surprise follows when one discovers that, after Don Aurelio's death, Civica became a roadhouse. It turns out that the priest passed away without any heir, so the work that had cost him so many years passed into the hands of his housekeeper. So his nephews decided to create a bar-restaurant in his rooms. Of course, all this are only assumptions, since the real story of what happened is not quite known.

This is what Civica looks like today

Its corridors are narrow, with low ceilings and full of steps. Through them you can access different rooms, also of low height. It is not known if they served as a residence, although it was almost certainly the temporary home of travelers. Stairs, doors, windows, columns and terraces, sometimes with Gaudí touches, are some of the elements of this large cave house that can be seen from the outside. All of this forms part of an architectural ensemble that seems to be from another time, or even from another planet.

This architectural jewel is seen when you reach a bend in the road that passes through Civica, so it surprises all those travelers who pass through the hamlet. It is important to note that its inside cannot be visited, as it is at risk of collapse and it is a private property. In addition, although there are some more houses in the village, they are practically abandoned. In fact, the INE (the Spanish National Institute of Statistics) reflects that there are nine inhabitants in this small hamlet.

Finally, at the top is the Fountain of the Seven Spouts, catalogued by Felipe II. It emanates a crystalline and fresh water that, according to the locals, cured stomach ailments. Curiously, it has an inscription with its date of construction, 1797, and a Victor, a symbol of victory from the Lower Roman Empire. In short, a must-see for lovers of adventure and mystery, as well as for fans of the most original architecture.