The Middle Ages left a profound impression on Spain, whose visible reminders still persist centuries later. Retaining a sense of the past, there are some medieval villages that narrate bygone days to those who walk their time-worn streets.

The travel community’s verdict

This online vote raises the simple yet burning question of which medieval village may be considered Spain’s fairest. A number of participants share the memories and insights associated with those medieval places where time seems to stand still.

The results speak not only to aesthetics and conservation, but to shared history, cultural pride and townsfolk’s affinity for welcoming visitors.

Spain’s foremost medieval villages

Although there can be but one winner, here is a worthwhile look at the other contenders for Spain’s most breathtaking medieval village. In fifth place is the picturesque village of La Alberca. Located in the province of Salamanca, La Alberca appeals for its tangible splendour, enduring ancient traditions and extraordinary natural surroundings.

Fourth place leads to Aínsa, high in the mountains of Huesca, whose main square boasts an eleventh-century castle. As a backdrop to the legendary atmosphere of Aínsa stand the captivating might of the Pyrenees. 

The bronze-medal winner belongs to the gorgeous village of Pedraza, in the province of Segovia. With pristinely conserved medieval streets and a castle nestled on a hilltop, Pedraza truly kindles the imagination.

The runner-up in the ranking results in an interesting draw. Albarracín, previously voted Spain’s most beautiful village, shares the title with Besalú, in the province of Girona. The reddish hues of Albarracín’s stone walls elicit a rich history, while the magical panorama surrounding Besalú’s famed bridge conjures tales of medieval romances.

Spain’s most beautiful medieval village

The most oft-repeated name in the ranking evokes cobblestoned lanes and robust stone homes whose wooden balconies display heraldic coats of arms. Santillana del Mar in the province of Cantabria is a stunning medieval village offering endless picture-perfect opportunities.

Santillana del Mar’s remarkable beauty includes the Collegiate Church and Cloister of Santa Juliana. However, the town is also famously associated with the unique World Heritage Site at the Cave of Altamira. The cave has prehistoric cave paintings and it's located a mere two kilometres from Santillana del Mar. Some even call this place the "Sistine Chapel of cave art".

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However, the aggregate of opinions received from Fascinating Spain’s Facebook survey inquiring into Spain’s best mountain village offers an insight into the general consensus. And the result is likely to surprise some people.

Plenty of candidates reaching the summit

The mountains and valleys of Galicia, Cantabria, Andalusia and the Pyrenees are all nominated by many of those who travel Spain extensively.  

While the villages of Aínsa or Albarracín, both in Aragón, usually occupy the top spots of most rankings, on this occasion, other veritable hamlets set in singular landscapes are in the spotlight.

Dead heat for third place

One village in Cantabria and another in Galicia, both in northwestern Spain, share the honour of the bronze medal in the ranking. The silver award, meanwhile, goes to a beautiful Pyrenean village in the province of Huesca.

Shrouded among the peaks and valleys of the eastern massif of the Picos de Europa in Cantabria, Tanarrio is known for its cork tree forest where a monastery and hermitage dedicated to Saint Facundo once stood.

The village of O Cebreiro, in Galicia, marks the gateway into the province along the French Way of the Camino de Santiago. Its distinctive prehistoric traditional dwellings, called pallozas, and the silhouette of the Church of Santa María la Real mixed with tales of Galician folklore are the customary welcome for pilgrims passing along the Camino de Santiago. 

Silver medal custodian of the Pyrenees

Second place goes to Torla-Ordesa, sitting on the threshold of the Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park, in the Pyrenees of the province of Huesca. Its cobblestoned streets and slate-roofed dwellings, together with the babbling Ara River and mountain peak panoramas, captivate the traveller. The sixteenth-century Church of San Salvador, the ruins of its ancient castle and the main square comprise an extraordinary historic and architectonic setting.

Spain’s best mountain village?

Cantabria seems to be a clear regional winner, appearing not only in third place, but also earning the title of Spain’s best-rated mountain village.

Nestled at the confluence of four valleys in the region of Liébana, the choice of Potes is no fluke. Its old medieval town centre, crossed by the Deva and Quiviesa Rivers, is a labyrinth of bridges, stone homes and narrow streets, where the Infantado Tower and the Church of San Vicente stand out among cozy café terraces.

Potes is also the starting point for various trekking routes into the Picos de Europa mountain range, including the cable car of Fuente Dé and the must-see Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana. The spectacular village of Potes is the clear winner among Fascinating Spain’s community of travelling connoisseurs.

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This waterfall is popularly known as Cailagua and creates an image known as "bridal veil". It is possible to reach it through a simple route from the municipality of Soba where it is located, and obtain beautiful panoramic views from various viewpoints set up around the source of the Asón River. According to a popular legend, it is actually the silver hair of an anjana, a character from Cantabrian mythology. 

Route to the source of the River Asón

The journey to the source of the Asón River is almost straightforward and takes seven and a half kilometres, or about three and a half hours. The route is flat at almost all times, so there is no need to worry about the slopes. However, during the last stretch the terrain becomes steeper, having to overcome the rocks and small streams. Even so, it is a fairly simple route, where you only have to follow the white and yellow signs placed on the ground along the way. 

The best thing about this route is that it is a good option at any time of the year. For example, in spring and summer the colours will be brighter but in autumn and winter the fog runs along the paths creating a romantic landscape. However, spring is the best time to visit the waterfall, as it is the time when most of the snow melts in the mountains.

To do this walk you have to go to the first spot, the village of Asón, located as we mentioned at the beginning in the Soba valley. Here the route begins, specifically on the right side of the road at the end of the village, taking the detour towards the Casucas de Asón.

On the route to the source of the Asón River, the flora and fauna are very important. Thus, you will pass through different meadows, although animals can also be seen in some of the fenced spaces for the cattle that have to be crossed. In this way, some parts of the path pass between cows and other animals. 

Along the route you can also see small and large stone houses among the green pastures. The signs will take the hiker to the end of the waterfall. The view of the fall from its base is one of the most impressive. In summer it is a perfect option to cool down a bit with the cold river water. 

Viewpoints from which to contemplate the Cailagua waterfall

To complete the route to the source of the Asón River or as an independent option, it is worth noting that there is the possibility of contemplating the waterfall from the same road. This is possible thanks to several viewpoints established for this purpose. The viewpoint of the Collados del Asón offers panoramic views of the whole mountain area. Very close by is the viewpoint of the Nacimiento del Río Asón; situated on a sharp bend, so extreme care must be taken. This last one has the best views of the waterfall. 

Ramales de la Victoria: Cullalvera Cave and Covalanas Cave

The village of Ramales de la Victoria is half an hour away by car. If you have some extra time, here you can find the cave of La Cullalvera and the cave of Covalanas. The first one comprises a karstic complex of 12 kilometres where the geological forms are most fascinating. The second cave is smaller and is located in the lower section of the Asón river valley. One of its galleries has Palaeolithic cave paintings.

Visitor Centre of the Collados del Asón Natural Park

Those who are still strong enough can put the icing on the cake by visiting the Visitor Centre of the Collados del Asón Natural Park; which is located in the village of La Gándara, also in the Soba Valley. The centre is perfect for expanding your knowledge thanks to its permanent exhibition on the ethnographic and natural values that helped the Collados del Asón to be declared a natural park. The exhibition also highlights the river ecosystems that exist in the valley; as well as the stocks of Atlantic salmon.

But this is not all. The Gándara is another of the gems that Cantabria hides, as the source of the river that gives its name to the village is nearby. The water emerges from the ground in an unexpected way, forming streams of the most spectacular kind. However, the most striking feature is the viewpoint located over the void near the visitor centre. From here you can follow a path that runs through extensive meadows and ends at the Mirador de la Reina. From the viewpoint the waterfalls of the river Gándara are worthy of a postcard; although it is certainly not a viewpoint suitable for those who suffer from vertigo.

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9 mountain villages in Cantabria to find peace

Carmona

Carmona is one of the most beautiful villages in Cantabria for several reasons. First, it has a privileged location, as it is in the middle of the Cabuérniga Valley and very close to the river Nansa. Thus, it allows you to see landscapes of different shades of green that are truly incredible from any point in the town.

On the other hand, its architectural heritage, with its mountain-style mansions and wooden balconies, is so well preserved that it has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site. As for its people, they are dedicated to livestock farming and wood craftsmanship, especially in the manufacture of footwear called albarcas. It is, in general, one of the most beautiful mountain villages in Spain.

Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar is one of the most famous villages in the region. Some of the most outstanding monuments in this town are the Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana, the Palace of Mijares and the Palace of Viceda. It is always a good idea to take advantage of your visit to taste the local gastronomy.

However, there is one place on the outskirts of the village, a couple of kilometers away, which stands out above the rest: the Altamira Caves. In this cave, whose Sala de los Polícromos has been declared a World Heritage Site, you will find cave paintings that are between 14,000 and 16,500 years old. Although the original cave is not open to visitors, the Neocave in the Altamira Museum is open to the public.

Cabezón de la Sal

As you can imagine from the name of the village, Cabezón de la Sal is a town that has historically been dedicated to the extraction of salt. As for its heritage, its most outstanding buildings are the Casa-Palacio de Carrejo and the Church of San Lorenzo.

Also, it is important to mention the prehistoric site of Cabrojo, with sandstone engravings dating from the Bronze Age. Regarding nature, it has a very interesting location for hiking enthusiasts. It is right in the heart of the Saja-Besaya Nature Reserve and just three minutes from the National Monument of the Sequoias.

Potes

Potes is known for being the place where the medieval fights between the Mendoza and Manrique families took place. Moreover, it is located right at the point where the rivers Quiviesa, Deva and Bullón meet and in the middle of the four valleys of the region.

It is a village full of medieval buildings, such as the Torre del Infantado, the Torre de la Lama, the Puente de San Cayetano and the Puente de la Cárcel. In recent years it has grown economically due to the great amount of tourists who visit it to lose themselves in its cobbled streets.

Cahecho

With a population of just 49 inhabitants, Cahecho is not one of the most famous villages in Cantabria, but it is a place well worth a visit. Its views are so incredible that it is known for being the viewpoint of the Picos de Europa, making it an ideal place to take pictures.

As for its heritage, it is a very picturesque town full of stone and wooden houses. Its most outstanding monument is the 16th-century Gothic church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Cahecho is undoubtedly one of the great destinations for a rural tourism getaway in northern Spain.

Mogrovejo

Mogrovejo has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest and Historic Site. This is due to its ashlar and masonry houses with wrought iron balconies, which make this one of the most picturesque mountain villages in Cantabria. Monuments worth a visit include the Tower of Mogrovejo and the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.

Such is the charm of this mountain village that the film Heidi was filmed here. For this reason, since the year of the filming, 2016, Mogrovejo has been known as Heidi's village. It also was part of The Most Beautiful Villages of Spain in 2020.

Bárcena Mayor

Located within the Saja-Besaya Natural Park, Bárcena Mayor not only stands out for the nature of its surroundings, but also the village itself has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site. Cobbled streets, rustic and traditional architecture and an old farmhouse are some of the elements that can be seen on a stroll through this pretty town.

Since 2015 it has been part of the select club of The Most Beautiful Villages of Spain, and it is no wonder given the excellent preservation of its houses and its balconies full of flowers. It is also a good place to try its  famous mountain stew.

San Vicente de la Barquera

San Vicente de la Barquera is one of the few towns in Cantabria where you can take a picture of the sea and the mountains at the same time. The perfect combo for the undecided or for families who can't agree about where to go. Furthermore, it is located in the Oyambre Natural Park, with landscapes that will remain in the traveller's memory forever.

It is a coastal town with a great popular tradition and an old town, in which the Gothic church of Santa María de los Ángeles and the Puente de Maza stand out. As for beaches, Barnejo-Berrellín is the best known, only ten minutes away by car.

Fuente Dé

Last but not least, we must mention Fuente Dé, a village with only 7 inhabitants. And what is so interesting about such a small village? Well, it is in the middle of the Picos de Europa and from there a cable car takes you up to a height of 753 metres.

The journey takes about three and a half minutes. The views from the top of the cable car are breathtaking. Once there, it is up to you to decide whether you want to stay and contemplate the scenery or take one of the many hiking routes available. It is one of those mountain villages in Cantabria that is well worth a visit.

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Three-day route through the Valles Pasiegos

Starting in the Miera valley, the most authentic Cantabria

The Miera Valley is the narrowest of the three, located a short distance from Santander. It stands out for its karst and limestone landscapes with a glacial origin, together with its picturesque typical houses. Travelling through this beautiful spot is to discover a classic morphology of glaciers, and it is possible to clearly contemplate the cirques and moraines.

It stands out for its rich cultural heritage, which is divided into the Pasiego culture, with numerous huts, river mills and trails that run through the nature of the valley, as well as the typical architecture, especially the Historic-Artistic Site of Liérganes. The first stop in the valley begins in Pámanes, to discover the beautiful 18th century Elsedo Palace, one of the most impressive Baroque constructions in the region. Some of its rooms are open to the public and it houses exhibitions of modern art works by prestigious artists such as Chillida, María Blanchard and Pablo Serrano.

Lérganes is 6 kilometres away, one of the most important tourist attractions in the Valles Pasiegos. It is considered one of the most beautiful medieval villages in Cantabria, located in a unique natural environment and known for its charming houses with balconies full of flowers. One of the best experiences here is to wander through the narrow cobbled streets of the old town, known as the Mercadillo district. Nestled here are several mansions of classicist architecture, such as the Langre house, the Setíen mansion or the house of the Cañones.

One of its most outstanding monuments is the Mayor bridge, known as the Roman bridge, located over the river Miera and connecting the El Calgar neighbourhood with the old town. In addition to its impressive architecture, it offers one of the best panoramic views with the Marimón and Cotillamón peaks in the background. One of the most spectacular spots of the valleys.

Under the bridge is the statue of the Fish Man, a legendary being from the mythology of Cantabria. The best place to learn more about this legend is the Fish Man Interpretation Centre, located in an old flour mill dating from 1667. To end the day, visit the Gothic church of San Pantaleón, which still preserves Romanesque features and two Baroque altarpieces. Next to the church is a swing with the best views of the village. The ideal place to watch the sunset.

Pisueña Valley, home to Cabárceno Park

The Pisueña Valley is home to the popular Cabárceno Nature Park, a place where you can see animals in semi-freedom. It is noted for housing animals from all five continents, including elephants, giraffes, cheetahs and bears. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Cantabria. This park can be visited in a full day, but also in the morning or afternoon. The most suitable option if you want to enjoy the rest of the day visiting other places in the Pisueña Valley in the Valles Pasiegos is to choose the half-day ticket.

After visiting the Cabárceno park, you can take a simple hiking route to the source of the Pisueña river, which starts in a village of the same name. Just 30 minutes by car from the park, a signposted trail suitable for all ages, which allows you to discover the landscapes of the area and some of the typical constructions of the valleys.

During the walk it is possible to contemplate the unique balance between the Pasiego huts for the use of the livestock farmers in the area and the oak and beech trees that give shape to the peculiar landscape. To end the day, it is worth visiting the village of Villacarriedo, known for its majestic historic-artistic site. From the Baroque palace of Soñanes, the school of the Padres Escolapios, the charming mountain houses and its small churches that have stood the test of time.

Villages with a unique charm in the Pas Valley

The village of Vega de Pas is one of the 'three Pasiego villages', together with San Pedro del Romeral and San Roque de Riomiera. It is a charming village built in medieval times. Its square stands out, where you can see the typical houses of the area, with wooden balconies and stone façades that give the place a picture postcard image. Among its most significant monuments are the parish church and the Doctor Madrazo sanatorium.

On the way to Puente Viesgo it is worth making a stop to visit the Hombre y Campo museum in San Vicente de Toranzo. It has a large exhibition of objects related to peasant life and traditional activities in the area.

A 30-minute drive away is Viesgo bridge, one of the obligatory stops on any route through the Valles Pasiegos. Here you will find one of the most important prehistoric cave complexes showing Palaeolithic art. The caves it houses are known as: El Castillo, Las Chimeneas, Las Monedas and La Pasiega. The village is also known for its famous spa that takes advantage of the medicinal waters of the spring.

The Valles Pasiegos are a real treasure in the province of Cantabria. Located just a few metres from Santander, you can enjoy a unique natural setting and discover the peculiar Pasiego culture.

Beaches, a popular promenade and a skatepark

With an area of just over 5,300 square kilometers, Somo keeps its greatest treasure in the sand of its beaches. The one located to the west and closest to Santander is the Puntal beach. Next to it stand the Puntal dunes and the Miera estuary, a protected area where the sandy formations merge with the mouth of the Miera River. This large sandy tongue that penetrates the bay is perhaps the most suitable for both family and walking.

On the other hand, the beaches of Somo and Loredo, the latter located further east, are preferred by surfers. In both beaches the bottom is sandy and the sea is open, which facilitates sports maneuvers. Also, surfers are those who, in recent decades, have taken control of the lifestyle of the people. In Somo stores, bars and surf schools are everywhere, as if they were shells in the sand.

In this sense, two curious elements of the town are also noteworthy. One is the skatepark located on the promenade, a few meters from the sea and decorated with a multitude of graffiti. When dusk falls on summer days and darkness keeps the surfers away from the water or when winter arrives, athletes come to the park to continue surfing, in this case, the asphalt. In this skatepark, inaugurated in 2011, several championships have also been held that have made it a place of reference of the skateboarding scene in Spain.

Another characteristic element of Somo, also located on the promenade, is the Paseo de las Estrellas del Surf. There, as in the Hollywood Walk of Fame, a series of black tiles with red stars that are intended to serve as recognition for surfing figures both nationally and internationally.

Somo beyond surfing

Leaving aside beaches and surfing enclaves, Somo also has other elements to visit. First of all, its church stands out, built in the 80's and with works of great interest in its interior. The famous Somo bridge, which connects this town with Pedreña, should not be overlooked either. The construction saves the 320 kilometers that for centuries separated both localities across the Cubas estuary. The bridge was inaugurated in 1978 and undoubtedly contributed significantly to the tourist development of the area.

'People think that tourism arrived with surfing, but when I was a child this beach [Somo] was already mythical,' said Sergio Maza, one of the town's longtime residents, in an article in El Diario Montañés. Maza's aunt, Almudena Esteban pointed out in the same article that 'the area below that is now full of apartments was all beach and fields, there were only a couple of businesses, a beach bar and two houses of very wealthy families'.

The cradle of surfing since the 70s

However, when surfing arrived, it was here to stay. It all started in the 60's with the then swimmer Jesús Fiochi, the first to bring a surfboard and catch a wave in Spain. He did it on the Santander beach of El Sardinero. The methods at the time were rudimentary: wooden boards, coffin makers who devised some ruse for their crazy friends, underwater fishing suits that became wetsuits with which to swim against the current... The fact is that more and more people wanted to join this new sport in which humans rode waves.

Shortly after Fiochi caught his first wave in 1963, three young men set up what would become the first Spanish surfboard manufacturing workshop: Casa Lola. They did it in Loredo. From that moment on, the workshop became the epicenter of the surfing community of the time. Thus, more and more people visited Somo with a board under their arms until 1970, when the first surfing championship in Spain took place on the beach of Somo. Since then, this town has remained one of the key places for this sport both in the Cantabrian Sea and in the rest of the country.

A bit of history of the fish cathedral

What is known today as the fish cathedral is actually the tower of the church of Villanueva, part of the municipality of Las Rozas de Valdearroyo. It was built at the end of the 19th century and, as a temple, it would not have a very long history. The whole area was a crossroads between Santander, Bilbao and Burgos, between mountains and moors. Livestock was the main livelihood, as well as mining. This, although today it has disappeared in practice, meant that industry arrived relatively early.

But for the tower of the church of Villanueva to end up separated from its temple would have to wait until the middle of the century. For decades the creation of the Ebro reservoir was planned. This would accumulate the waters of the largest river in Spain in its highest course, flooding meadows and villages. Among the infamous stories associated with reservoirs, such as that of Riaño or Lanuza, the one of this place occupies a prominent place.

At the end of the 40's the works were finished and it was inaugurated by Franco in 1952. During the whole process, the victims were promised compensation that never arrived. Some of the villages, such as Villanueva, had to move. Thanks to the proximity of its temple to the shore, its tower could be saved. During the last few years it has been gaining fame and thanks to this it has been restored.

The keys of the fish cathedral

Although it is next to a small village, the fish cathedral seems to be very isolated. It is worth mentioning that you should be attentive to the sign indicating the access to the monument. You can go down by car and, after crossing a stone arch, park it next to some wooden guards and an information sign. Once here, to get to the tower you only have to walk along a short path with vegetation on the sides. This leads to the bell tower next to the shore of the Ebro reservoir.

A footbridge allows you to reach its base by entering the waters. At this point the views are already very attractive. However, the highlight is that you can climb to the top of the tower. Several interventions make the building look perfect on the outside and its interior is accessible. From the top the views are breathtaking, encompassing the reservoir and the peninsula of La Lastra. An amplitude that can not be perceived from anywhere else.

Corners near the fish cathedral

The mountain between Burgos and Cantabria is a natural spectacle. Both the region of Campoo-Los Valles and the northwestern end of the Merindades have almost innumerable attractions, very varied. In the foreground is the Ebro reservoir, with landmarks such as the spa of Corconte, several examples of Romanesque architecture, the Roman domus of Retortillo or the peninsula of La Lastra. Reinosa serves as a reference point on the west side, a great base and with all the services to get to know the area.

Moving on to Cantabria, the best option is to visit the Saja-Besaya Natural Park. On the way from Reinosa you can see the source of the Ebro, with its famous Virgin of Pilar. Already in the place there are many routes to make and viewpoints to enjoy, such as the Cardosa. Bárcena Mayor is the only town within the natural area. It is a stone village, very well preserved and where you can taste some of the best mountain 'cocidos' of Cantabria.

Meanwhile, in Burgos, the entire course of the Ebro offers first class views. Among its gorges there are beech and oak forests, as well as beautiful villages such as Orbaneja del Castillo. Along the river course there are other very varied options. The natural monument of Ojo Guareña for example, a set of caves and an amazing cave chapel. Puentedey, a village around a monumental stone arch, is another nearby option. Another magnificent alternative are the ruins of the monastery of Santa María de Rioseco, Cistercian and next to the roaring Ebro.

A place with a lot of history and beauty

The cathedral of the fish is an easily accessible place in an area that has a lot to see. A vantage point from which to contemplate a reservoir with a dramatic past and the mountains that form its backdrop. As if out of nowhere, this weekend getaway is a perfect excuse to go up to this strip between Burgos and Cantabria, little crowded and very authentic. In short, there are plenty of reasons to visit this ancient tower.

The natural environment and popular architecture that surround Mogrovejo has made it become the perfect setting to emulate the Swiss Alps in a movie about Heidi. But the charms of this village do not end there, its old town with a stately tower of the thirteenth century and the church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción are more than worthy of mention. So it is not surprising that one of the most important Jacobean routes passes through it.

History of the village

Almost no information is known about the origin of the town or its first settlers. The only thing that is known is that it was previously called Luarca, taking its present name in the 13th century. Precisely in this century the construction of the tower of Mogrovejo was carried out by the lords of this mountain village. To this lineage belonged the bishop of Lima, Toribio Alfonso de Mogrovejo, canonized by the Catholic Church.

The story goes that the lord of these lands was the standard bearer of Don Pelayo's army in the battle of Covadonga. The flagpole was preserved for a long time in the now disappeared hermitage of San Martín. The lords of Mogrovejo also received the royal privilege of naming the mayors of the municipality of Camaleño, then known as Valle de Baró.

Tower of Mogrovejo

The tower of Mogrovejo was built at the end of the 13th century by the lords of Mogrovejo, distinguished in 1248 by King Sancho with the concession of the monastery of San Martín de Mogrovejo. At the end of the 14th century, this lineage became related to the León family Álvarez de Miranda, who are the current owners of the monument. It is protected by the royal decree of April 22, 1949 and was declared a historic site in 1985.

The construction is on a farm surrounded by a high perimeter wall. It has a square floor plan, is crenellated and is 21 meters high. It has a series of twin windows, of which the original shutters are still preserved. Today, the tower is empty, without floor divisions, and is undergoing a restoration process. The wall also contains several buildings in ruins, including the mansion built at the same time, as well as the chapel built between the 17th and 18th centuries.

The church and popular architecture

The church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is located in the epicenter of the old town. It is a 17th century building with a single rectangular nave. In its interior the main altarpiece of baroque style stands out, with the coats of arms of the Mogrovejo family. It also keeps an image of Santo Toribio and another Flemish image of the Virgin of the XV century, known as La Milagrosa. The interior of this temple can only be accessed during mass hours.

Another of the great attractions of the town are the traditional houses of the Liébana region. For its part, the upper floor remains open to the outside. You can also see other baroque style mansions dating from the 16th to 18th centuries, many of which retain the stately coats of arms on their covers. The mansion of Vicente de Celis stands out, with a monumental Estrada coat of arms.

Routes from Mogrovejo

The historic center is one of the main attractions of this town, but it is not the only one. Many of the visitors who come annually to Mogrovejo are pilgrims who follow the Vadiniense Way. This Jacobean route that links the Northern Way with the French Way.

Its natural environment causes great interest among hikers and therefore, from the town begin several hiking trails that allow to know closely the flora and fauna of the area, both the valley and the high Cantabrian mountains. For example, the route of Bajo los Picos is a circular route of about four hours. For its part, the route to Peña Oviedo consists of a trail of about 7 kilometers that can be extended up to 14.5 if you reach El Cable.

A film village

Mogrovejo has recently made it to the big screen. In 2016 it was chosen as the setting for filming the movie Heidi: the queen of the mountain. This is the first part of a trilogy that follows the adventures of Heidi and her friends. Specifically, Mogrovejo was the location selected to place Pedro's house. For a few weeks, the whole environment was turned into a small village in the Swiss Alps. The grandfather's hut was built in Cillorigo de Liébana, specifically in the village of Pendes and the surroundings of the Hermida Gorge.

How the polar auroras arrive in Spain

Polar auroras, called boreal if they occur in the northern hemisphere and austral if they occur in the southern hemisphere, are formed when a stream of particles emitted by the sun reaches the Earth in the form of solar wind. When they come into contact with the planet, they collide with the magnetosphere, the outermost and most extended layer of the Earth's atmosphere. This protects the Earth from the energetic particles contained in the solar wind and deflects them towards the poles thanks to electromagnetic fields.

Once these solar particles reach the northern and southern hemispheres, they hit the terrestrial ones in these places. It is this last collision that emits a light visible to humans, which permeates the sky with vibrant shades of green, purple or yellow.

When the sun emits more particles than usual, a geomagnetic storm is produced that makes it possible to see the northern lights in other parts of the planet closer to the equator. Therefore, although the most frequent places to see them are in the north of Scandinavia, Finland and Canada, polar auroras have been seen throughout history in unusual places such as Spain, Latin America or North Africa.

The color red and the Carrington phenomenon

The different colors of the northern lights also have an explanation. When solar particles interact with oxygen between 100 and 200 km altitude, the lights turn green. However, in geomagnetic storms, the blue and violet colors break through when the solar wind comes into contact with lower layers of the ionosphere and interacts with nitrogen. While when these particles interact with oxygen in the higher layers of the atmosphere, at an altitude of more than 200 kilometers, the auroras appear red. It is the latter color that will paint the sky at latitudes closer to the equator.

This phenomenon, which occurs frequently at the poles, is rare to see elsewhere. In addition to the eventuality with which the auroras can be seen in southern latitudes, the skies must be clear, there cannot be much light pollution and the sky must be dark. When all these factors take place at the same time, the miracle happens.

The most relevant milestone in the world in this sense took place in 1859, when a very intense geomagnetic storm made it possible to see polar auroras in cities such as Madrid, Rome or Havana. The 19th century phenomenon is known as "the Carrington event", and it is said to be the most powerful storm ever recorded in history.

Polar Auroras in Spain: Where is the fire?

The 1938 episode is perhaps the most remarkable in terms of polar aurora sightings in Spain. Although, as has been pointed out, at first it was panic that germinated in the minds of those disbelievers who saw the sky turn red with the cry of "where is the fire?", calm and amazement eventually prevailed. Astronomers reassured the population, while others said that such a phenomenon could not be caused by man.

50 years later, the sky was once again tinged with red in Spain and other countries. In this case, in 1989, the northern lights were seen mainly in Galicia. 1706, 1870 or 2000 are also some of the dates that have recorded the presence of polar auroras in southern latitudes. For now, in the 21st century, the phenomenon that could be observed in the country on the night of November 20, 2003, stands out. On that day, a geothermal storm made it possible for the sky to turn colorful again in the vicinity of the Cantabrian Sea and even much further south, in Valencia.

This miracle will probably happen more than once in the rest of the century. Therefore, we will have to be attentive to the forecasts of astronomers and, hopefully, more than one will be the lucky spectator of the spectacle of lights reflected in the sky, the result of the flashes of the armor of the Valkyries who are on their way to Valhalla.

A well longer than the Eiffel Tower

The well, also known as Torca del Porrón, is undoubtedly the deepest in Spain. It surpasses by almost 100 meters the previous holder of this position, its neighboring well Los Pasiegos. With 435 meters of vertical drop, its length is much greater than that of the Eiffel Tower, which makes it the second deepest well in the world, only behind the one located in the Velebita grotto in Croatia. All this in terms of those discovered by humans and speaking of a totally vertical drop. That is, without any ledges or stepped descents. In this second case, the Gran Pozo MTDE would hold the not inconsiderable position number 11.

To access the Torca del Porrón, it is first necessary to negotiate another small shaft of about seven meters. Once in front of the cave, it takes at least an hour and a half to descend its walls and about three hours to climb back up. This is a feat suitable only for experienced cavers in good physical condition. The subway drilling ends when you reach the so-called Sala Maldita, which in turn belongs to the Torca del Tejón.

New species in the Gran Pozo MTDE?

In the aforementioned interview, Sergio Ruiz indicated that the underground areas "are environments that have evolved in a totally different way to the outside, so this evolution creates microfauna that develop parallel to those outside and it is easy to discover new species". Five years after that discovery, the Cantabrian Club of Underground Explorations tells Fascinating Spain that "we have obtained a good scientific article on a relict invertebrate endemic to the Asón area: the Cantabrodesmus lorioli", a species of millipede.

Is it possible to visit the Gran Pozo MTDE?

Now, the Torca del Porrón cannot be visited by the general public, as it is economically impossible. It would also be a huge alteration of the landscape. "In addition to dangerous in every way" indicate from the exploration club. "If it is true that for the purposes of the speleological world is right now free of permits to visit by specialized groups who want to meet this challenge," they add. They also warn that "it is necessary more than just desire to do it, since it requires a preparation equivalent to facing high peaks with adequate means".

An area under exploration

Exploration of the Gran Pozo MTDE has already been completed, but the area in which it is located is a cavity mine. This is due to its location in the Porracolina karst massif, made up of limestone strata, combined with strips of sandstone and impermeable materials. The Porracolina belongs, in turn, to the eastern Cantabrian mountain range, which covers the massifs of Castro Valnera, Alto Asón and Sierra de Hornijo, as well as the Collados del Asón Natural Park.

As already mentioned, in the vicinity of this impressive cave there is also the Los Pasiegos well, 345 meters deep. According to the Cantabrian Club of Underground Explorations, it is also important to point out the existence in the vicinity of other wells such as the Juhue, 302 meters deep, the Negro, 340 meters deep, or the Buldo well, with a drop of 314 meters. A paradise for speleologists in Cantabria and who knows what is yet to be discovered.

The lighthouse of the 700 steps

Located at the foot of Mount Buciero, in a particularly rocky area, is the Caballo lighthouse (horse lighthouse). This lighthouse began operating on August 31, 1863. It originally consisted of a building divided into two blocks. One of them was the lighthouse keeper's house, with a rectangular floor plan and two floors, but it has not survived to the present day since it was demolished. The second block would be the lighthouse tower, which still exists and is preserved, although in 1993, after 130 years of service, it stopped giving light to the entrance to Santoña Bay.

There are two ways to access the lighthouse, walking and by sea. To access from below, that is to say, from the sea, you have to approach a stairway that leads directly to the water. To do this you have to wait for the right weather conditions. That is, no waves and high tide.

There are boats and organized kayak routes to visit the lighthouse by sea. The most common is to go down the more than 700 steps of its staircase. This staircase was built by the inmates of a nearby prison, specifically those of the Santoña prison in the nineteenth century. Curiously, more than a century later, in 2013, another group of prisoners conditioned the area for a visit as part of the Nácar (Nature and Prison) program.

A hiking route to access the lighthouse

The Caballo lighthouse route of Santoña is very popular with nature lovers. It starts from the promenade of Santoña, which is 5 kilometers from the lighthouse. The route is signposted and passes through laurel and hawthorn forests. It then passes by the Fort of San Martín, built in the 17th century and declared an Asset of Cultural Interest with the category of monument. It is currently the Cultural Center and headquarters of the Heritage Rehabilitation Workshop School.

Both the building and four permanent exhibitions on the history of Santoña can be visited. Afterwards, you can follow the coastline along Mount Buciero, passing by viewpoints that allow you to contemplate the impressive view of the cliffs. To finally arrive at the stairway that gives access to the lighthouse. Once there, if you wish, you can continue downwards, descending some 100 steps that give access to the sea. To return to Santoña you only have to take the same route as on the way out.

The spectacular Mount Buceiro

Mount Buceiro surrounds the Caballo lighthouse. It forms part of the Natural Park of the Marshes of Santoña Victoria and Joyel, which is considered a SPA (Special Protection Area for Birds) and a SCI (Site of Community Importance).

Protected by the Natura 2000 Network. With more than 600 hectares and a peninsula shape, it enjoys both Mediterranean and Atlantic flora. With forests of laurel, strawberry trees, oaks, hazelnut trees and wild cherry trees. It stands out for being one of the most important Cantabrian oak forests in the country, with a maximum height of 376 meters above sea level. It is home to two endangered animal species. The shag and the Egyptian vulture, which can be seen with a bit of luck. Mount Buceiro protects Santoña from the inclemency of the sea, turning the location of this fishing village into a natural harbor.

Natural Park of the Marshes of Santoña, Victoria and Joyel, a unique jewel

To get to know this Natural Park it is highly advisable to first visit the Visitor Center of the Natural Park of the Marshes of Santoña, Victoria and Joyel, mainly for two reasons. The first and most important is that it offers more than 700 square meters in which to learn about the history, fauna and flora of this Cantabrian coastal natural park, as well as information on the different routes and activities that can be carried out in its more than 6,600 hectares.

And the second reason is that the interpretation center itself is a magnificent viewpoint, with a very unique architecture that simulates an ocean liner. A spectacular site for photography lovers. It is worth noting that admission is free, as are the various workshops for the whole family.

Santoña, the world capital of anchovies

If anything characterizes the gastronomy and way of life of Santoña, it is the sea. Its orographic shape as a natural port and its fishing boats are the hallmark of this region. It is a town known for its canned tuna and anchovies in vinegar, but the queen of Santoña is undoubtedly the anchovy.

We can find from the traditional anchovy preserved in oil, to the anchovy preserved in butter. The preserved in butter was one of the ways of canning, in the Italian salted fish canneries at the end of the 19th century. This is a tribute to the Italians who went to the Bay of Biscay in search of goods for their factories.

The best time to get to know the local gastronomy is during the Anchovy and Cantabrian Canned Food Fair. It is a traditional event organized by the Cantabrian Anchovy Guild, to choose, through a blind tasting, which is the best anchovy of the year. In addition to tasting the best canned Cantabrian anchovies, you can participate in the various activities related to these products. The Fair is usually held in spring.

Day 1: Berria flows

Berria, Cantabria. In this beach belonging to the municipality of Santoña, the sea currents run wild as if they wanted to drag its bathers to the very horizon line. The yellow flag flies quite often. The lifeguards keep watch over the more than two kilometers of a beach that requires constant attention. Two red flags mark the point where a current is moving. Still, locals and tourists will enter the water, but the rushing air and cold waters discourage the brave from doing so. Instead, many people take walks along the banks or try to catch the rays of sunshine that occasionally peek through the clouds. The classical northern summer. Only the rain is missing.

Despite the conditions, the sea is not empty. Quite the contrary: a lost of people paddle on huge boards inland. If they get swept away by the current, they can hold on to their lifejackets. These are the surfers. Amateurs, professionals and beginners face the sea with the illusion of, perhaps, riding a wave to go with them to the shore as if they were also water. The journey begins in Berria. This is the first day of five of a route that will help to discover Cantabria in a different way.

Day 2: looking for waves, discovering Liencres

The sun shines like few days in Cantabria. The wave forecast is good at Ris beach, Noja. But, upon arrival, the sea sleeps as still as a rock. Wave forecasts sometimes fail and this time they have been completely wrong. Here, in this little piece of the Natural Reserve of the Marshes of Santoña, you cannot surf today. But, looking again, the beach of Canallave, in Liencres, presents itself as a good option for the sport.

After driving a little more than 40 minutes, the municipality of Liencres appears and, behind the dunes, the beaches of Canallave and Valdearenas stretch out, connected to each other at low tide. This area, beaches included, is part of the Natural Park of the Dunes of Liencres, a protected area of Cantabria of great beauty. As the tide is high, the beaches of Canallaves and Valdearenas appear separated by water as if they had never been communicated.

In Canallaves, of surfing tradition, the waves rise on the sandy bottom. But to look for them, you have to go to the right of the beach. The water bathes the rocks and many surfers do not dare to enter. But those who do will enjoy a good day: alone, in front of the dunes and under the sunset. If it had not been for the failure in the forecast, Liencres would still be an unknown place, and how sad it would have been...

Day 3: San Vicente de la Barquera, surfing and sightseeing in Cantabria

Moving to San Vicente de la Barquera is not only a good option for surfing, but it is also a great option to visit. Located on the western Cantabrian coast, the municipality is located in the beautiful Oyambre Natural Park. In addition, San Vicente has an outstanding monumental heritage, which was declared a Historic-Artistic Site. The King's Castle, the church of Santa María de los Ángeles or the convent of San Luis are some of the monuments to visit. It also highlights the wall that fortifies what was once a medieval village.

Apart from its architectural and natural wealth, San Vicente de la Barquera is a well-known surfing area in Cantabria. Thus, it has stores and schools where you can learn from professionals, get equipped or rent the material. The beach par excellence for its practice, as well as the busiest for bathers and tourists, is that of Merón. With four kilometers, the coastline is divided into five parts: El Puntal, El Rosal, Bederna, Peñas Negras and, of course, Merón. In the open sea, this beach receives a constant swell throughout the year and the blue flag, a sign of quality, flies on its sand.

On this third day, San Vicente de la Barquera surprised by the large number of athletes in its waters, as in few in Cantabria. Luckily, the area is wide. Surfers wait seated on their boards for the water to rise. Meanwhile, they breathe the salt air and enjoy the view of the Picos de Europa to their right. Suddenly, a wave appears on the horizon. The surfers lie down on their boards and prepare to fight for it.

Day 4: The Sardinero leads to Langre

In 1965, Jesus Fiochi ordered a surfboard from a factory in the French town of Bayonne. The next morning, with no idea about the sport, but with extensive knowledge of swimming, Fiochi showed up at El Sardinero with the intention of doing what the instructions on the contraption indicated: stand up on the board after catching a wave. Wearing a wetsuit, the swimmer managed to catch his first of many waves that day. Today the beach of El Sardinero is the epicenter of surfing in the city of Santander.

Arriving there, the afternoon of the fourth day of this route through the beaches of Cantabria, parking near El Sardinero is complicated. The beach is full and people concentrated in its accesses. To catch a wave will have to fight tooth and nail with the rest of surfers and be very careful not to take a swimmer ahead. Today is not the best day to surf here. We will have to change. There is a good forecast at Langre beach. We will have to try there.

40 minutes later by car, the beach of Langre, in the municipality of the same name, is guarded by an impressive cliff about 25 meters high. Its currents and the orientation of the beach make Langre a good choice for surfers. Here, its visitors will not find neither stores nor schools, although it is a good place to practice snorkeling on its westernmost side. Its waves can reach a considerable height, although the ride is not too long.

Day 5: Somo, surfing mecca in Cantabria

Although it was on the beach of El Sardinero where Fiochi caught his first wave, it was soon after at Somo beach. Here, the surfing culture took root right away. The first surf school and the first surf store in Spain opened their doors in this enclave of Ribamontán al Mar. Somo also became the first natural surfing reserve in the country and is a reference point for the sport throughout Spain.

About 20 minutes from the Cantabrian capital and with the possibility of arriving here by plane, thanks to the Santander-Seve Ballesteros airport, the beach of Somo connects with the beach of Loredo along six kilometers in length. It is an ideal place to learn, especially in summer when the waves are smaller, or to improve your technique. Its long waves allow all kinds of maneuvers for those who know how to do them.

When they get there, a group of kids gather around a boy on the sand. The students look on attentively, with their boards pushed to one side and their tight-fitting wetsuits already buckled. Some of the teenagers have colorful stripes painted on their cheeks and foreheads as if they're about to get into a war. And, indeed, they are. It's sunscreen on a stick and it's common to see it on surfers. The teacher, standing in the middle of the circle, lies down on his board and swings his arms until he suddenly stands up. He is teaching his students how to surf. With the bay of Santander in sight, on the other side of the sea, the boys and girls take their boards, tie their invention, a leash that joins athlete and board, and run to the sea. The battle of surf begins.

In the early 1930s, the French researcher Edouard Le Denois informed the scientific community of the existence of the Cachucho. Its official name is actually a tribute to its discoverer: Le Denois. However, the Asturians baptized the mountain range as Cachuho, a popular name for the red pigeon, a very abundant fish in the area.

One of the areas of the planet with the most accidental catches of giant squid

The Cachucho has an east-west disposition of 57 kilometers long and 17 kilometers wide. Its depth descends to more than 4,000 meters and rises to 450 meters below sea level, so it does not even show its face to the surface. It is home to more than 500 marine species, some of which are very difficult to find and whose rare presence is usually found only in abyssal or polar waters. Thus, according to the Convention for the Protection of the Marine Environment of the Northeast Atlantic (OSPAR), 'the Internal Basin of El Cachucho Bank is one of the areas of the planet where the most accidental captures of giant squid have occurred'.

This creature can reach up to 20 meters in length and 1,000 kilos in weight, has three hearts and a vision a hundred times more powerful than that of a human being, with a highly developed brain. It lives in the deep sea, between 400 and 1,500 meters, and feeds on fish, crustaceans and cephalopods.

Mount Cachucho, a marine protected area

In 2011 the Council of Ministers approved a Royal Decree by which the Cachucho became the first Marine Protected Area in Spain. The area was also banned as a fishing area, since the trawling technique destroyed the seabed and carried away all kinds of species. However, other types of fishing, with their corresponding permits, can be carried out.

Ribadesella

Back on the surface, the closest town to the seamount is Ribadesella, a council founded by Alfonso X the Wise. Surrounded by blue and green, Ribadesella has a wide promenade parallel to the beach of Santa Marina, flanked by beautiful buildings of the 20th century. In addition, the place is known for hosting the Cave of Tito Bustillo, declared a World Heritage Site. The cave houses at least 12 sets of rock art. Nearby, it is also possible to practice active tourism: surfing, climbing, caving or canoeing. On the first Saturday of August after the 2nd, the famous descent of the Sella is celebrated.

Tresviso is located on the western border of the province of Cantabria, bordering Asturias. In fact, the only way to reach it, by road, is from the Asturian town of Sotres. It is a route that commands the respect of those who feel they are invading the mountain. For those who want to cross it on foot, this Cantabrian village can be crowned starting from the Urdón river, a route that is worth doing at least once in a lifetime.

What the visitor looks for and finds in Tresviso

Visitors who mark Tresviso with a thumbtack on their maps are probably looking for two things. First, disconnection. Given its geographical location, Tresviso exists outside the rush of the world. Of course, this concept, which can be taken to a romantic-bucolic level, has its enormous shortcomings. Not only the depopulation that is found in places like this, but also the conditions to which, on many occasions, its inhabitants are subjected. The absence or lack of basic services or weather conditions, such as snowfall, which can isolate Tresviso for weeks.

With around 60 inhabitants, this small village is, in any case, a place of peace, for the traveler, of those rushes and that noise. It is also, as a result of all this, a place of connection with nature. This is another of the great reasons why there are those pins on the maps. Tresviso is a balcony to the Picos de Europa.

It belongs to the region of Liébana, its stone houses typical of the mountains and the atmosphere is not far from all this. At 900 meters above sea level, it is the highest town in Cantabria. Here, one can enjoy its church, dating from the early 20th century, its local establishments and stress-free walks. Sooner or later, one should be encouraged to take some of the many hiking trails that pulsate around the village.

Understanding the Picos de Europa

The views that Tresviso offers help the traveler to understand the greatness of the Picos de Europa, one of the most impressive natural sites in the country and the continent. This national park is an immersion in the immensity of the mountains in particular, of nature in general, a feeling that can be experienced starting from this spot of Cantabria.

The Urdón valley extends below Tresviso. It is part of the basin of the aforementioned river, which flows through a gorge populated by a forest of oaks and other species. The route that joins the river and the village is one of the favorite routes for hikers, because although it may involve a certain difficulty, both the journey and the destination, up or down, is worth it. Another of the routes that start from the village is the one that leads to the summit of Horcadura del Cantu, which reaches an altitude of 1,200 meters. From here you can contemplate, on the best days, the great Central massif of the park.

Visiting Tresviso in Cantabria means visiting a unique village. Because one understands better the terrible consequences of depopulation and isolation, but also because one feels closer than ever to nature and what the world offers and people have tended to forget. It is important to know and understand both.

The keys of the Covachos beach

This nudist beach of golden sand covers a length of 50 meters long by 10 meters wide and is surrounded by a cliff. It reveals itself practically all year round as a place of low occupancy. But here's the catch: access is not easy, as it is necessary to go down some stairs that disappear at the end of the section, leaving the explorer at the mercy of a rope to descend. Be careful!

However, the place will more than reward the adventure. Not only is it an isolated and wild beach, but it has some unique elements. First of all, a freshwater waterfall, of mysterious origins, falls from the cliff onto the sand. Among the limestone rocks surrounding Covachos, there are also some caves, the reason for the origin of the beach's name. But the most characteristic of Covachos is undoubtedly the Castro Island. When the tide is low, a sandy path makes its way through the water and connects the beach and the island. The visitor can thus walk towards Castro, almost as if walking on water.

It is this factor, the high tide and low tide, of great importance to go to Covachos. At low tide it is possible to see some of its best kept wonders, the road to the island, the waterfall and the caves. However, when the tide rises, the way back to the stairs becomes more difficult, to the point of having to swim. For this reason, it is important to pay attention to the oscillations of the sea before this visit.

Spots near the Covachos beach

For those who do not dare to make the trip to Covachos there is a quieter and equally paradisiacal option. This is the beach of Arnía, which can be accessed, once climbed the stairs, walking from the beach of Covachos. You only have to walk about 10 minutes and better if it is next to the path that runs along the cliff to enjoy stunning views. From Arnía it is possible to glimpse one of the icons of this beach, the rocky islets of the Urros de Liencres.

Both beaches are located within Soto de la Marina, in the municipality of Santa Cruz de Bezana. Here, in Soto de la Marina, was born in 1700 the colonizer José Escandón, viceroy of Mexico and conqueror of Nueva Santander. The churches of Mompía and Prezanes, the seminary of Corbán, the site of Rostrío or the ancestral home of La Canal are some of the most significant monuments in the area. The beach of San Juan de la Canal, with a blue flag -a quality distinction-, is also part of Soto de la Marina.

These beaches are also part of Costa Quebrada, a coastal stretch of great geological importance. Costa Quebrada extends from the Magdalena Peninsula in Santander to Cuchía beach in Miengo. The coastal forms of this coastline reveal a set of features that allow us to witness geology in action and discover the origin and evolution of this land. Thus, cliffs, arches, islets, islets, dunes, beaches... A beautiful route that passes through these beaches, as well as others such as Cerrias, Somocuevas or Portio, can be appreciated for about 20 kilometers

But, in addition, Covachos beach is very close from the Natural Park of the Dunes of Liencres. Declared a natural park in 1986, this enclave is located at the mouth of the Pas river in the estuary of Mogro in the municipality of Piélagos. Its 195 hectares include the beaches of Valdearenas and Canallave -also beaches of Costa Quebrada- and the dunes of Liencres. These have an important geomorphological interest and are home to a multitude of fauna and flora.

A refreshing adventure

Covachos beach allows its visitors to cool off, and also because it does so in a very special environment. Where have you ever seen a freshwater waterfall falling on the sand of a beach? And an island that is accessed through a secret sand road? Covachos offers these unique features that are difficult to find in other beaches. An adventure in Cantabria in which the effort will be worthy.

Although northern Spain has countless legends and tales, in this case reality far outweighs fiction. The Puente del Diablo of Santander is not linked to any legend, although it has been the scene of many folktales in the area. And it is, within this wide range of evil bridges to choose from, one of the most curious. Actually, it should be said that it was one of the most curious, as it ceased to exist a decade ago. Work of the Devil?

The collapse that followed the abandonment

A work of, in fact, nature itself. This Puente del Diablo was a natural formation located on the cliffs of Cueto. It could be seen before entering the bay of Santander. It was the effect of the waves on the limestone rock that caused this place to take the improvised form of a real bridge that, in fact, was used as such.

And it was also the nature that shaped it that ended its existence. The force of the wind and the waves caused it to collapse in the winter of a decade ago. The rocks that formed it can still be seen under the space left by its formation.

It was also caused by human negligence. For some time, many years ago, the neighbors had denounced its abandonment and proclaimed the need to preserve it. Nothing was done, so the bridge collapsed. It remains in the collective memory as one of the most beautiful natural forms in the history of Cantabria.

The road to reach it is the N-621 today. Its almost vertical walls are usually occupied by climbers, as well as its long paths frequented by travelers and hunters. However, it stands out for being an area of special protection for birds. Among them are eagles, vultures, chamois and capercaillies, the latter in danger of extinction. Regarding the vegetation that populates the place, cork oaks are mixed with oaks and beeches, typical of the Atlantic forest. You can also enjoy the holm oaks found on both the Cantabrian and Asturian sides.

History of an impressive route

Desfiladero de la Hermida, is 21 kilometers long, making it the longest in the country. The new pass began to be built in the 19^th century, mainly to transport the wood produced by the forestry industry in the Picos de Europa. Specifically, the first road through which it was possible to travel dates from 1863. Among the hills and gorges that overlook the gorge you can find prehistoric paintings more than 20,000 years old. There is no shortage of towers built by the Cantabrian peoples to protect the territory from a possible invasion by the Castilian population, and later by the Romans.

When that first route was built in 1863, it also opened up a world of new possibilities. Liébana and the gorge were regions with mining and industrial wealth. This union in trade had already been tried before, but at that time and thanks to Belgian and French money, it was possible to establish an access route to transport minerals. By the end of the 18 ^th century, the road was already being used for this purpose. Today, the route has exactly 174 rather narrow bends that look as if not even a car could fit through them. In fact, some of them are less than 25 meters in radius.

The nooks and crannies of the Desfiladero de la Hermida

There are countless corners within the Desfiladero de la Hermida that are worth visiting. One of these places is its Via Ferrata, one of the first in Cantabria. There you will find Tibetan bridges that are not suitable for those who are afraid of heights. These wooden structures are perfect for people with a passion for adventure. Next to them are stairs that lead directly into the Deva River. Another of the key points are its viewpoints. Castro de Verdeja is in Linares, although the most famous is Santa Catalina.

Of course, its 60-degree thermal water pools are also remarkable. Although the first spa that was built closed its doors in the 1940s, it was renovated and reopened in 2006. The site is still the same building built in the 19 ^th century, which is almost a museum in itself. Not to be forgotten either are the villages along the way. Panes, Unquera, Caldas, Linares, Potes, Lebeña and La Hermida, which gives its name to the gorge itself. All of them have stories to discover, as in Lebeña, with its pre-Romanesque church of Santa Maria, which also has a virgin carved in the fifteenth century. In Potes you can visit the Torre del Infantado, a fortification where Iñigo López de Mendoza lived.

It should also pay attention to La Hermida and its hermitage of San Pelayo, which is eight centuries old. To finish and get the best views of the Picos de Europa, it remains to go to Fuente Dé. There you will find the cable car that connects directly to the Mirador del Cable. Arriving at the top you can have a perfect panoramic view of both the Picos de Europa and the valley of Liébana. Its height of over 1800 meters, is perfect to reflect the place in all its splendor.

Legends through the gorge

There is no doubt that a place with as much history as the desfiladero de la Hermida, hides in itself some legend that has transcended time. And, in fact, hides several, like the one that says that in the viewpoint of Santa Catalina Muslims played bowling with gold balls. And that is why this area is also known as the Moorish bowling alley. Likewise, the gorges are associated with traditions such as those of the Ojáncanu, an ancestral Cantabrian cyclops. Another of the stories that populate the place is that of the Tears of Don Pelayo. As mentioned above, one of the visits on this route passes through the Deva River. In it there are seven salmon reserves, one of them called "Las lágrimas" (the tears). It is named after two large rocks at the foot of the river that legend says are the result of the weeping of the medieval lord.

At that time Don Pelayo lived in Bres and Al Qama, general in command of the Arab army by order of Munuza, was going to attack his troops. Don Pelayo and his army went to the Auseva mountain and hid in the Covadonga cave to surprise his enemies. They were victorious and the enemy general had to flee because of his defeat. But the consequences were also negative in the short term for Don Pelayo, since, due to the fight against the Muslims, there were landslides in the gorge, leaving many men buried. Devastated by that loss, he wept and legend has it that those tears became the rocks that can be found today on the banks of the Deva River.

Maritime show at Cabo Mayor, Santander

As it could not be otherwise, we start the journey through Santander in the lighthouse of Cabo Mayor. This place, where the sea and the land meet, offers views that are hard to forget. The immensity of the Cantabrian Sea and the ferocity of its waves, together with the green meadows that you leave behind, make it a magical place. In addition, the lighthouse (which has watched over the bay since 1839), has become a museum. Inside, which we recommend you visit, there are more than 200 paintings and nearly a thousand drawings, watercolours and graffiti by the artist from Santander, Eduardo Sanz, in honour of the different lighthouses in Spain.

From Cabo Mayor you will see how the impressive 30-metre circular stone tower (91 if measured from the sea), is covered by more than one wave that crashes hard. At the foot of the lighthouse there is a restaurant where you can taste the excellent fish and seafood of the area. Or simply have a drink and let yourself be captivated by the views that this journey through Santander offers you.

Along the extensive Sardinero beach, Santander

1,700 metres of fine golden sand that everyone calls El Sardinero to shorten it, as if it were just one beach, when there are five: El Camello, La Concha, Primera y Segunda del Sardinero (the largest) and Molinucos. El Sardinero has a curious fact. It was one of the first beaches in Spain to offer wave baths back in the 19th century; when people only got wet by medical prescription or by accident. At that time, spa towns were becoming very popular throughout Europe, and Santander was joined by San Sebastián and Biarritz. Today the city council revives this period for a few days in July by celebrating the "baños de ola" (wave bath) festival. It can be a good opportunity to do the journey around Santander.

Before reaching the Sardinero beach from Cabo Mayor, which can be reached by a path that runs along the whole coast, we pass by the Mataleñas beach, where there is a golf course of the same name. The curious thing is that it is on the edge of the sea and the player has to be right-handed if he does not want all the balls to end up in the Cantabrian Sea. At the other end of the Sardinero there are the most representative buildings of the area; the Gran Casino Sardinero and the Gran Hotel Sardinero. Both are impressive constructions.

Following in the footsteps of Queen Victoria

To continue this journey through Santander, from the Sardinero beach we take the Avenida Reina Victoria. We arrive at the peninsula of La Magdalena, the generous gift that the city gave in 1908 to Alfonso XIII. They wanted him to spend the summer in a beautiful palace with an English style and thus please Queen Victoria Eugenie, who was British. The Magdalena Palace is the work of the architects Riancho and Bringas and was built with all kinds of luxury. It has ten bathrooms, an extraordinary figure for the time. After the civil war, the building was ceded by the Royal Family to be used as the summer headquarters of the Menéndez Pelayo International University and finally sold to the City Council for a symbolic amount. The Palace is a mandatory stop on any journey around Santander you can imagine.

Everything in Santander invites you to take a walk and it is not unusual to see walkers, alone or in groups, strolling at a relaxed pace either on the beaches (even in winter) or on the different routes by the sea or by the bay. We continue along Avenida Reina Victoria and walk along the bay on the promenade. There is no hurry: the walk is long but you are on holiday.

One of the first sights we find is the Museo Marítimo del Cantábrico (Cantabrian Maritime Museum). If we continue a few more minutes, the Real Club Marítimo de Santander appears, raised in the water simulating a ship's bridge. Next to the club is the sculpture Los Raqueros, by the Santander sculptor J. Cobo Calderón. This sculpture, so representative of the city, although it does not seem so, reminds us of a cruel act. Los Raqueros were children of humble origin who threw themselves into the sea to get the coins that the rich, for their amusement, threw at them.

A lot of art in Centro Botín

As the end of this journey through Santander and after a twenty minute walk from the Club Marítimo, we will approach the Centro Botín. Since it opened in 2017 it has become one of the main attractions of the city. A very modern building, designed by the internationally prestigious architect Renzo Piano. This art centre has two exhibition halls, an auditorium and a restaurant run by the chef Jesús Sánchez. The contrast between the modernity of the Centro Botín and the nearby old machine known as the stone crane; which has been on the seafront since 1900, is striking.

Centro Botín is made up of two volumes of different sizes supported by columns and partially suspended over the sea. It blends in perfectly with its surroundings and demonstrates the love of the people of Santander for their Cantabrian Sea. In addition, in front of it are the Pereda Gardens, a more than pleasant walk.

Very close by is the Rábago/El Soplao paleontological site, where dinosaur enthusiasts can see insect fossils, arachnids and other arthropods trapped in amber. Towns such as San Vicente de la Barquera, Santillana del Mar with the Altamira Cave, Potes or Comillas serve as a base for visiting the hollow. A very peculiar enclave that also offers spectacular views of the Picos de Europa.

Mining origin of El Soplao

The cave was discovered by chance in 1908 by members of the Grupo Minero de La Florida when they excavated the La Isidra tunnel, which would start the underground progress of the exploitation. The network of natural galleries was quickly used as a means of communication between the different work areas, transporting people and ore. It also helped to provide oxygen to the mining galleries. Fortunately, the cave and its formations were largely respected. The cave owes its name to the mining term that alludes to the air that can be perceived when a new gallery is cut, the cavities that created strong air currents.

Once the exploitation period was over and after years of abandonment, the cave was rediscovered by the Speleo Club Cántabro in 1975. The origin of the cave must be in the Mesozoic, some 240 million years ago. In 2005, it was opened to the public and fully equipped for visitors. Later, in 2019, an underground via ferrata was completed, allowing visitors to discover its mining heritage.

The exceptional formations of El Soplao

The initial access is through a mining train that, after 400 meters, leads to the first gallery where it is possible to enjoy roofs full of limestone helictites. In the middle of a large network of caves arranged on different levels, various spaces can be found. The gallery of the ghosts, for example, is more than 300 meters long. There it is possible to observe large white stalagmites that look like ghosts.

Beyond that, aragonites, stalactites and elliptical or eccentric stalagmites generate a wide variety of sensory games, from light to smell. We must not forget the pisolites or pearls of the caves; which appear in group formations as if they were nests. Thus, it is one of the most spectacular in the country next to the Cave of Wonders, the cave of Sant Josep or the cave of Nerja.

Special mention should be made of the false floor, an area considered as the Sistine Chapel of the underground world. An impressive view, more with the accompanying sound and light setting. Finally, it is worth mentioning the discoveries of amber and blue amber speleothems from the Cretaceous Era that are still preserved. A sort of small biological treasure chests with insects and other vermin.

The different ways to discover the cave of El Soplao

The Soplao offers different routes so that it is accessible to everyone. These range from a conventional visit to an extreme experience. It is more than 20 kilometres long, with four of them open to the public. For this reason there are an infinite number of galleries that allow for three types of visit.

The guided tour is accessible to everyone. You are always accompanied by a guide who will explain the history and importance of the environment. Meanwhile, there is also an alternative of geological and speleological adventure. This offers a tour of about three kilometers in two and a half hours. It is necessary to wear boots, overalls, a helmet, lights and warm clothes. Thanks to this, the cave is known both through simple sections combined with others that will require the help of railings or stairs.

Finally, there is the mining tour. It includes an underground via ferrata of two kilometers in length and different levels of difficulty. Although it does not require previous knowledge of caving; it is not recommended for minors and requires a relative physical form.

A risky engineering work

When the idea of building a cable car in the area was considered during the early 1960s, it seemed anything but appropriate. The area around Fuente Dé had traditionally been a place of both mining and livestock. José Antonio Odriozola, a Cantabrian engineer who was very attached to the area, was the one who suggested the creation of El Cable. With this he wanted to give alternatives to a territory that could fall into depopulation. To do so, he was inspired by a route used to bring down mining assets that already existed.

It took from 1961 to 1964 for it to materialize and another two years for it to be approved. During the whole process there were many technical problems that were solved. The neighbours were not sure what the Fuente Dé cable car was for or if it would be of any use. José Calavera Ruiz and Ángel Hernández Morales were the ones who tackled the difficult challenge. The alternative chosen was a two-way cable. That is, between the stations there would be two parallel lines with a cabin each that could move in both directions.

Up there, the problems came from the isolation. With Espinama as a reference point, practical solutions had to be found to make the whole thing safe. Reinforced concrete and complicated excavations in the glacial terrain were carried out. At the same time, a priority was that the whole thing should not disrupt the landscape. Creating a hulk that would glow in the middle of the Picos de Europa was dismissed from the outset.

It was in 1966 when the works were successfully completed, both the cable car and the cafeteria buildings as well as the Parador that was built in Fuente Dé itself. The event was worthy of the limelight and on September 12th the dictator Francisco Franco came in person to open the cable car. With the hype that surrounded any action around such a character, a great media impact was achieved. It soon became clear that the humble cabins that were thought to be empty at first were going to become the opposite.

The ascent to El Cable Viewpoint

The cable car has been renovated several times and achieved its goal of making the area more dynamic. In summer, 2,500 people take it and the authorities estimate that the number of visitors to the site could reach 5,000. However, it is technically impossible. In total, 753 metres are saved in a 1,450-metre route. The journey takes less than four minutes and leaves behind some of the best possible views of Liébana. Each cage holds 20 passengers and at peak times it is advisable to reserve seats as they are quickly sold out.

Its impressive figures make the Fuente Dé cable car one of the biggest in Europe with just one shot. The viewpoint of El Cable is waiting at the top. With nothing to envy of Pyrenean corners, the glacial character of the valley is clear. The very stone walls saved by El Cable show the effects of the great ice masses that shaped the place.

You can also see the source of the Deva, a river that starts at the humble Fuente Dé. This important waterway supplies Potes and the monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana. Once in Asturias, it takes in the flow of the Cares, famous for the route to which it gives its name. After that, it continues to trace the Asturian-Cantabrian border as far as Unquera and Colombres, where the Northern Way and the A-8 pass through. It is precisely from there that it is usual to access El Cable, crossing the impressive Hermida Gorge on the way.

The route between the cable car stations in Fuente Dé

Although taking El Cable is almost mandatory, choosing to go down on foot is an experience. A hiking route of just over 14 kilometers that takes full advantage of this spot in the Picos de Europa. From the 1,823 metres of the upper station you will follow a path that is mostly downhill. It is only a matter of gaining metres at the beginning and end, but the difficulty is simple. It is also quite popular and well indicated. The distance it saves puts the duration of the walk at about four or five hours.

The start is defined by a small ascent and a crossing between mountains that appear in a gray nude. Peña Olvidada or Torres de los Horcados Rojos are some of the peaks that make up this particular and beautiful landscape. This is how you get to the first big stop, the Chalet Real. Built to house a king, Alfonso XIII, as its name indicates, it overlooks an open and imposing site. Of English style, it was financed by the Royal Asturian Mining Company.

As you go down to Espinama you pass by the mountain refuge of Áliva; near the hermitage of the Virgen de las Nieves and a complex called Invernales de Igüedri. These are a direct reflection of the area's livestock past, as they were shelters for the local shepherds. Going down allows you to go from the living rock to the woods. Beeches and oaks, among others, give a change of third in which the populations make an act of presence. Espinama or Pido go up the course of the Deva to the same Fuente Dé.