The Cantabrian Sea and the countless mountain contours forge an unparallelled sight, where villages are intimately woven into extraordinary natural surroundings. Choosing the region’s most beautiful towns will inevitably omit plenty of outstanding candidates, but here is a look at the top spots that explain why the north of Spain is so beloved.

The travel community’s picks

When searching for the most beautiful towns and villages of northern Spain, España Fascinante relies on the expertise of our readers, who know the region well and are generous enough to share their insights with us. 

And according to our readers, the north of Spain is indeed a marvel. Likewise, some placenames appear more than once, so let’s discover which places received the most votes from the travel community

The chosen few of northern Spain’s most stunning villages

Travellers’ preferences provide an extraordinary shortlist. Elantxobe, in the province of Bizkaia, is one name that immediately stands out. This charming fishing village, perched on the sloping hillsides of Cape Ogoño, lies along the Biscay Coast within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve.

The third-most voted village is Potes, a timeless classic lying in the heart of the Liébana region in Cantabria.  This enchanting town fuses the grandeur of nearby mountains with one-of-a-kind municipal charm. In fact, Potes is known as the Burgh of Bridges and Towers.

The runner-up in the ranking needs no introduction. Perhaps Asturias’ most photogenic town, Cudillero sits along a rugged stretch of coast where the town’s colourfully-painted homes cascade from steep mountainside, forming a natural amphitheatre embracing the harbour.

The king of the North: another Asturian seaside treasure

The village voted northern Spain’s prettiest is Lastres. Much like Cudillero, it too is nestled along the Asturian Coast with tiered homes clinging to cliffsides. The village’s cobblestone streets lead down to the port, where greenish-blue hues dominate a panorama of striking beauty.

Long acclaimed as one of Spain’s most beautiful towns, Lastres has often appeared as the setting for films and television series. The palaces and stately homes of Lastres’ old quarter harmonise with majestic terrain, while the local cuisine promises delights that are bound to make any visit a memorable one.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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Past and present of the biggest building in Spain

The building of this huge work began in the mid-1940s, during the Franco regime, when mining was one of the most important activities in the Spanish economy. In fact, its origin was to become an orphanage for children who had lost their parents in accidents in the mines.

As a result, the works were carried out between 1948 and 1957. Until José Antonio Girón, its main promoter, the Minister of Labour, was removed from his position. By then, that initial intention of being an orphanage had been forgotten, and it had turned towards its function as an educational centre. Thus, at a time when this type of institution was developing all over the country, it became the "Universidad Laboral de Gijón".

As it is above mentioned, it is now known as the City of Culture and consists of several schools, the Vocational Training Centre, the Professional Conservatory of Music and Dance and the Higher School of Dramatic Arts. Besides, there are also a museum of contemporary art and a great theatre, which are the most attractive places for tourists.

The keys to visiting the Laboral University of Gijón

Luis Moya was the architect of this amazing building. As a first point of interest, it should be noted that the building does not face Gijón, so it does not follow the logical layout proposed by the city. As with other iconic sites such as the Parthenon in Athens, this original Laboral University was designed in such a way that, when approaching it from Gijón, visitors had to walk around the building to appreciate its magnitude.

Its 129-metre-high tower is the first thing that stands out when you approach the building. Of course, one notices the tower long before arriving at the place. For its construction, the architect was inspired by the Giralda of Seville Cathedral or the Tower of Hercules, the Roman lighthouse that survives in A Coruña.

These buildings are breathtaking, especially the church. It is located in the courtyard and has an elliptical floor plan of 807 square metres, so it is the largest of these features in the world. The building had to be designed in this way, as it was built with the idea of accommodating a thousand students and teachers. Taking a few minutes to appreciate its small details of its external decoration is totally necessary.

Not forgetting its central courtyard, whose measurements are like the ones of the San Marcos’ Square in Venice. As it is mentioned before, this building was designed to be as a city, for that reason, the courtyard is 150 metres long and 50 metres wide. For these reasons and many others, the old University of Gijón is a must when visiting Asturias.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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The Arnao Mine, a  journey through time into the earth

Along the central Asturian coast in the district of Castrillón, the escarpment melds with the ocean spray and the salpetre-scented winds of the Cantabrian Sea. The Arnao Mine is a jewel in the crown of this region’s industrial heritage, where the story of human progress meets our planet’s geological past.

As a geological reserve, the beach at Arnao is a treasure trove of fossils dating from as far back as 400 million years ago. A walk around this area is an insight into the earth’s early years, when the abundance of life then would become today’s significant coal reserves. The visionary spirit of friar Agustín Montero of Naveces would turn this place into Asturias’ first coal mine.

Centuries of struggle against the might of the sea

In addition to Arnao Mine’s pioneering spirit, it is also commendable for being the only underwater mine in all of Europe. Courageous miners of that time, wearing no more protection than a simple beret, soon had to contend with the unrelenting power of the sea. Entrusting themselves to their faith and traditions, they forged the distinctive Asturian traditions of mining and industry.

A turning point for the mine was its purchase in 1833 by the Belgian company named the Real Compañía Asturiana de Minas. The headframe at the heart of the mining complex, listed as a Bien de Interés Cultural (a protected cultural heritage site), dates from this era. The complex expanded to include a mining village, factories, and all the necessary amenities for the workers, such as a company store and a school.

Closure and comeback of Europe’s only subaquatic mine

Alas, the struggle against the sea could not prevail. In 1915, after years of leaks, immense risk and a reverential dread of catastrophe, the mine shafts excavated below the sea were finally shuttered. A century would pass before the mining complex returned to life, renovated and reopened to the public as a prized jewel of Asturian heritage.

The unique underwater mine at Arnao, a tribute to many courageous generations, is presently a restored site dedicated to teaching about the bowels of the earth along with local history. Additionally, the solemnly framed beach of rock walls at Arnao is an invitation to contemplate and admire mother nature and the ideal complement to a visit in this area.

You can also read this article in Spanish.

A journey to the centre of the Earth

One need not travel to Tibet in order to appreciate towering cliffs reaching nearly five thousand metres in height. The planet’s deepest underwater canyon, the Avilés Canyon, is much closer, though immeasurably less accessible.

This dark and mysterious subaquatic universe runs obliquely to the coast for 75 kilometres, though its depth, not its length, is the point of interest. On its journey toward the earth’s core, this trench plunges more than 4,700 metres, the result of millions of years of geological activity.

Mythological creatures in the Avilés Canyon

The Avilés Canyon is an immense aquarium cloaking extraordinary biodiversity. The valley walls provide a vital passing zone for marine giants like whales and cachalots while also being home to dolphins, sharks, eels, hake and lobster.

Up to 1,300 different species have been identified in its waters, though one in particular merits special mention, a legendary creature of harrowing appearance that has fueled fantastical tales. That creature is none other than the Kraken, the marine monster that attacks the Nautilus submarine in Jules Verne’s book Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Seas.

This gigantic squid, the Architeuthis dux or Peludín, as it is called in Asturias, actually exists. Measuring up to 18 metres in length and weighing 500 kilograms, this creature is actually much less belligerent than it appears. Its home is in the depths of the abyss from where little can be observed. On rare occasions has such a creature fallen into fishing nets or beached itself, much to the surprise of anyone who happened to come across such a curious cephalopod.

An underwater paradise

The extraordinary biodiversity of the Avilés Canyon has another star attraction. Spain’s first cold water corral reef was documented in this trench a few decades ago. At more than 700 metres below the water’s surface, the canyon´s slopes transform into a type of orchard where, instead of aquatic plants, there exist diverse species of corral, sponge and anemone.

The Avilés Canyon is a captivating submarine world yet to be explored. Shaped over aeons, it still may take some time to unlock its deepest secrets. Until then, it will continue to feed the popular imagination and the zeal of those seeking adventure and knowledge.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

Cudillero’s largest and wildest beach

Vallina Beach, part of Oviñana parish and stretching for over a kilometre, is a strip of dark sand and pebbled stones shielded by imposing cliffs. But these cliffs fail to protect the beach from the fiercely crashing waves of the Cantabrian Sea. These waves dictate extreme caution when swimming, but they are also what make this such an extraordinary surfing spot.

Indeed, this is one of Asturias’ most photogenic beaches. If you peer over the edge of the cliffs that skirt the area, you will be able to appreciate this pristine natural space. In fact, not only is it a protected natural landscape, but also a Special Protection Area for Birds and a Regional Site of Interest. In any case, to discover the secret of Vallina Beach, a descending walk from the heights down to its thick sands is in order.

Vallina Beach’s waterfalls

The waters that make up these cascades come from various streams in search of a riverbed. During the final leg, the water ends up dropping directly onto the sand in the form of small waterfalls. A spectacle of nature offering one of the most beautiful picture-postcards to be found anywhere along the Cantabrian coast.

Although Vallina Beach may not be the only beach in Asturias with such amazing views, the extraordinary thing here is the way in which the water falls both in cascades and in streams. There are at least five cascades to be found here. While some currents fall stepwise, almost sliding from the rock onto the sand, others forcefully fall from small heights. This water then continues moving onward, creating fanciful paths on its way to a relentlessly gulping Cantabrian Sea.

Watermills

A few steps from the beach next to one of those waterfalls, one will see an old stonewalled watermill facing the menacing Cantabrian waters. Moving upstream along the Vivigo, there is yet another watermill still in good condition. They are reminders of a seemingly distant, though not so remote, past.

For centuries, the Oviñana parish church cultivated extensive grain crops, which were then ground thanks to these mills and to the force of the streams crossing these lands. There were six watermills by the mid-18th century in this parish. The passing times and new sources of wealth triggered the extinction of most of the mills, while those still remaining allow its history to be remembered. They also make useful guide markers for reaching the natural treasure that is Vallina Beach.

How to reach Vallina or del Gallo Beach

One might think Vallina Beach is less popular due to its inaccessibility, but this is really not the case. Cars can be parked in the village of Oviñana and from there, an almost two kilometre-long trail leads to the beach. A pleasant walk in the surroundings of vegetation where the sounds of the Vivigo stream mark the final leg leading to the old watermills and then finally, on to Vallina Beach.

A privileged vantage point

From the sands of Vallina Beach, the setting is one of the most picturesque to be found in this Asturian Protected Area of the Eastern Coast. And the views from the ridge of the surrounding cliffs at the Mirador del Sablón lookout point are spectacular. Towering one hundred metres above the Cantabrian Sea, this is a panorama not easily forgotten.

A nearby park bench invites a resting spot to forget about daily life and relish the moment, especially so if it happens to be twilight. Anyone lucky enough to reach this spot on a clear day will witness one of Spain’s most stunning sunsets. Reason enough to stray from the trail and make it to this lookout point.

What to see near Vallina Beach

Mirador del Sablón is one of the must-sees in the vicinity of Vallina Beach. It should be remembered though that this territory is also home to one of Asturias’ most beautiful villages. It is well-worth taking the time to stroll around Cudillero and discover the unique beauty of its colourfully tiered homes.

Cudillero is all about idly strolling its steep, labyrinthine streets or sipping a drink at a terraza in Plaza de la Marina. This square opens onto a small port, where the best fish and seafood arrive. And, of course, a seafood you should taste. After having a bite and regaining some strength, a walk along the trail leading to the lookout points offers a range of perspectives of Cudillero.

Time permitting, there are always other beaches to discover in Cudillero. Silencio Beach is one of the most well-known. As charming as Vallina Beach and owing to its growing popularity, Silencio Beach has become a bit less quiet than the name might suggest.

Reaching Sotres means being very close to fulfilling the fantasy of touching the sky with the tips of your fingers. Sometimes, opening imaginary grooves, splashing a bluish vault with droplets. Others, taking a moment to pick out a cotton candy among fluffy clouds. Always under the watchful eye of Pico Urriellu on the horizon, touching the stars. It means living the dream that nature has made a reality in Asturian lands: traveling through a Biosphere Reserve. Getting to know sister towns, riverbeds, rocky gorges, funiculars, legends and kilometers of routes that open up in the rock, like cartographies eroded over millennia.

Reaching Sotres

Sotres can seem far from everything. A remote feeling that is hard to ignore, despite the fact that it is only 19 kilometers away from Carreña, capital of the Cabrales region to which it belongs. It seems almost like a mirage, dressed in its best clothes every season of the year. Perhaps the wind disorients and misleads, howling between gorges and cliffs. Or maybe the altitude is to blame for changing the point of balance of those who visit this area of Asturias.

Whatever the reason, the truth is that in Sotres, the perspective changes. The perception of the small and the big, the high and the low, the noise and the silence is transformed. Being in the highest village of Asturias implies a before and an after. Something that can already be sensed when you travel the different roads that lead to it.

Starting from Carreña, it is advisable to stop and visit its hermitage. One of the most beautiful of the region, of the Asturian side of the Picos de Europa and, many say, of Asturias itself. A place where the legend survives attached as lichen to the facade of the temple. According to the story, the Virgin who rests there came from Seville, brought by a neighbor, in exchange for recovering her sight. But the reality that surrounds this mountainous area is even more incredible than the history that surrounds it.

It is impressive to reach Sotres by road, taking Arenas de Cabrales as a starting point. A population center that holds the title of Villa since 1910 and that, today, hosts the contest of its famous cheese. But Arenas de Cabrales is much more. Above all, it is a strategic point, as it is considered the gateway to the Picos de Europa. Besides feeling the silent presence of the Naranjo de Bulnes, shouting to the four winds its greatness.

The Urriellu Peak and the surrounding routes attract the constant presence of mountaineers and lovers of active tourism. But also of people who long for the peace of the mountain, breathe fresh air and live closely the traditions preserved in the area. It is possible to walk among granaries enjoying the views until you reach the Church of Santa Maria de Llas. Discover its medieval paintings, trying to guess the coat of arms of Cabrales, or imagine the ancient uses of the magical Yew planted outside.

A natural cave awaits anyone who wishes to feel the tradition of the traditional cheese factory from its very origins. Later, with the table ready, the only thing left to do is to get ready to enjoy. Visiting Sotres and its surroundings is also an appointment with a delicious cuisine, from the legendary gastronomy of the area to its most current interpretation.

Legend and nature fly together, wrapped in the wind, over an incredible landscape. The air howls through the branches of the trees telling the traveler that, even without realizing it, the road continues. The end of the route is almost here. Or maybe this is just the beginning.

Sotres and its surroundings

There is Sotres, already visible in the distance from the road that winds its way up an unforgettable ascent from Poncebos. In winter the image looks like something out of a postcard. The chimneys of the rustic houses that offer shelter to the visitor smoke. Accompanying the path is the dull sound of eagles flapping their wings. Meanwhile, from some vague point, comes the aroma of a hot dish cooked on the warm fire of a house.

In any season Sotres looks like a village stolen from the pages of a story. An imagination that becomes solid and real, imbued by the strength of the mountains that surround it. The Picos de Europa fill the landscape with their mysticism. Ascending about a kilometer we find the Invernales del Texu, bordering the Invernales del Cabao. Walking through them and breathing them serves to relive, at least for a few moments, the life of the shepherds. There, the stone buildings that served as shelter for them and their flocks still keep the warmth of their lives. Long days of ice and snow nestled in the middle of the Reconquest route, 915 meters before the clouds.

In Sotres there is also space to live adventures and fulfill dreams. It is the beginning and end of many routes. It is next to the famous Cares route, 12 impressive kilometers between Poncebos, still in Asturias, and Cain, already in León. A path that, once you start, it is easy to understand the reason for its nickname: Garganta Divina (divine throat). A seemingly endless depth, carved into the rock, with the greenish sound of the Cares River in the background.

The Bolín Bridge and the Rebecos Bridge serve to circumvent the beautiful obstacle of the river and stop for a few moments to digest the breathtaking scenery. The Naranjo de Bulnes, towering over the village that gives it its name, watches over the beginning of the road, in Poncebos. Approaching it, looking at it from the front or from the side, it doesn't matter, is an unforgettable experience.

Also nearby, the small village of Tielve offers the dream of a mountainous and solitary isolation. The church of San Cristobal presides over a main square where a typical wash house is preserved. Although the real protagonist here is the river Duje that advances, emboldened by the descent, from the heart of the Picos de Europa. In this area it rests, forming natural pools, perfect for cooling off in the summer, which, in the end, always comes. Then, after the calm, the tempest of its course returns, until it flows into the Cares River.

Sotres runs in a network of peaks and valleys, riverbeds, and gorges nested by vultures. Kilometers of mountains and slopes, forests that are gateway and natural border between villages and communities. On the other side of one of these borders, at the end of a dizzying road, awaits, for those who dare to get there, Tresviso. The most isolated village of Cantabria is twinned with Sotres through a challenging road or at the end of the Cares Gorge Route. There it is, disconnected from everything, but indissolubly united with a nature that places it, like its name, 'behind the abyss'. This town in the Liébana region, overlooking the Urdón Valley, is the missing piece to complete the puzzle.

Ascending to Sotres is a gift for all the senses. It is the desire for a star in a clear and clean firmament. It is the reality of a wild nature seen up close, the flavor of an ancestral region. Finally, to arrive means to steal moments from the present to keep them eternally in memory.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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Pure rural charm

The peaks of the Sierra del Aramo break the horizon of the traveler who immerses into this spiritual retreat known as Bermiego. Located in the Asturian council of Quirós, this village rests on the foothills of the sierra, guarded by the Valdemurio reservoir, which has supplied the valley for decades. Here, visitors can enjoy the activities that this place offers, such as canoeing excursions for the whole family. The famous Bear Path crosses this reservoir and also reaches Bermiego.

Many come to this village in search of the famous ancient yew or texu. But what is their surprise to find legends, granaries, fountains and a chapel with views that move. The narrow streets of Bermiego transport the traveler to medieval times. A journey through time. The wooden balconies rise under the tiles, which still retain the reddish color despite the passage of time. The houses, meanwhile, look their best painted in colors that blend with the green of the mountains. Others, paved with cobblestones, give the feeling of walking through a movie set.

The residents of Bermiego await, curious, the arrival of a visitor who comes looking for that peace or who, perhaps, has stumbled upon the village by chance but has been captivated by its charms. Despite the arrival of tourists, the inhabitants of this Asturian village have not opened souvenir stores. In fact, there are only two holiday homes in the whole village, which are enjoyed by a lucky few. Here, traditional, rural life makes sense.

A tree as mystical as dangerous

To contemplate this wonder, the visitor walks, quietly, between hórreos and fountains. The hórreos, made of wood, traced with geometric figures, preserve their essence. The sound of the water dripping in the fountains calls the arrival to the most desired spot of this small town: the millenary yew tree or texu, as it is known in Asturias. Yew trees, long-lived and imposing, can live a millennium. Around them, mythology and folklore dance together.

The yew or texu millennial Bermiego is one of the most important Natural Monuments of Asturias and, linked to Celtic mythology, is shown before the eyes of the most curious. With its more than 6 meters high and the poisonous berries that decorate its leaves, the yew tree invites to contemplate, from the heights, the village of Bermiego in the distance. Its presence alone is imposing. But the stories related to Asturian mysticism, even more so.

It is usually associated with life or death and there are theories that its sap was used for rituals in which eternity was evoked. However, it means quite the opposite, as this tree has great lethal power. One legend tells that Asturian warriors used this poison to commit suicide and not fall into slavery before their rivals. Another, that in their arrows, made with the wood of the same yew tree, they introduced this toxic liquid to inflict greater damage on their enemies during battles.

The ancient chapel of Santa María de Bermiego rests next to the yew tree in the Asturian landscape. A balm of peace where to get away from it all and let nature caress the soul. All around, the deepest northern forest lurks. Bermiego is one of those places where the traveler gets lost. Where the green, the smell of humidity and the singing of birds echoes in every corner. Where time stands still.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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But apart from the popularity and the constant sharing of the places visited, beyond the already worldwide renown, this Gulpiyuri beach is worth a visit. For its peculiar characteristics and also for its beauty. And for swimming surrounded by a unique landscape, of course.

The keys of Gulpiyuri beach

Gulpiyuri is a spot full of peculiarities. First of all, as already mentioned, it is the smallest beach in the world. With its 40 meters long, this is how it is considered all over the planet. In addition, it has no direct access to the sea. It is an inland beach where the Bay of Biscay can be seen behind the rocks. Its strength, its thrust and its waves. But its waters cannot be observed from any of its sides, which causes a strange and pleasant feeling in those who stare at it.

It is formed by white sand, but at high tide it can hardly be seen. At low tide the opposite happens. Then it registers a phenomenon called drainage, by which the water escapes by the same place by which it entered, leaving the sand to dominate the environment. Another reason why this beach will conquer the traveler.

As you can imagine, it is difficult to find a place to settle down in the summer months, as there are many visitors who, in recent years, have come to know it. The space, of course, is limited. It does not have any kind of service and access must be made on foot, following a path that crosses the green meadows of Asturias. So when you finally step on that sand you have the countryside behind you and the rocks in front of you, with the sea filtering under the cliff. It is quite a spectacle of nature.

The beach of Gulpiyuri was born by the force of the sea, which chiseled the rock to create nooks and crannies under the ground while the roof sank to form the doline that is enjoyed today. This is the name given to this phenomenon that causes the sea to end up seeping through unimaginable places and thus was born this beach, which was equally unimaginable.

Spots near the beach of Gulpiyuri

There are many places in Asturias that can be visited to complete a trip to the beach of Gulpiyuri. The most obvious, because of its proximity, is the village of Naves, a quiet village that belongs to the council of Llanes and has about 200 inhabitants. In addition to the beautiful environment in which it is located, the church of San Antolín de Bedón, a Benedictine temple that was built in the thirteenth century, stands out.

If you have the opportunity and want to get lost in the wonders of this coast, heading west you can find Ribadesella, just 20 minutes away by car. This is one of the most popular fishing villages in Asturias, for its perfect symbiosis with the sea, for its impressive old town, for its promenade and for the cave paintings of Tito Bustillo. Following the coastline still to the west, Lastres, another fishing village, smaller but just as beautiful, awaits. If the visitor still wants more, it is not the visitor should take a look to this week along the Asturian coast that can conquer anyone.

On the other hand, a must on any visit to the Asturian Cantabrian: the buffoons. These water siphons can be seen when the sea is rough. Its effect, especially in the first contact with this natural form, impresses. Not surprisingly, the sea water is ejected by the natural chimneys of the earth, reaching a considerable height. Near this beach of Gulpiyuri, just 20 minutes by car, are those of Pría, perhaps the most popular of Asturias.

Gulpiyuri should be visited at least once in a lifetime

Especially lovers of nature and its amazing phenomena, should visit this unique place at least once in a lifetime. Admire its shapes and enjoy the Cantabrian Sea in a different way: while it sneaks between the openings that the waters themselves have formed by eroding the rock. That peculiar cliff, the Asturian green meadows and the calm waters that reach the white sandy shore are worth a visit. Also a swim, of course.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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And it is no wonder. Asturias is a place that has it all. Green landscapes seemingly from a fairy tale, villages full of charm, picturesque cities, and savoury cuisine. Dining in Asturias is an unparalleled experience along with such outdoor activities as trekking, rock climbing and kayaking.

Additionally, due to its cooler temperatures, Asturias is one of Spain’s ideal autonomous communities to visit during the summer months. Being a region located in the north of Spain, its climate is warm between the months of April and October, without reaching the higher temperatures of other parts of the country.

A recent study, conducted by the website Electomanía, confirmed this notion of “Asturias, beloved homeland”. According to its survey, Asturias is Spain’s most cherished region, followed by Galicia and the Basque Country.

“Asturias has it all - except British tourists”

The Telegraph states that Asturias has it all – except British tourists. Although this may be surprising at first glance, it is a fact that many Britons travel to Spain to bask in the sun and heat on its beaches. Taking into account that Britons are used to a cold and rainy climate, it is only natural that they would choose places like the Balearic Islands, Barcelona, Valencia and the Canary Islands for their holiday destinations. Although Asturias’ climate is not the same as the United Kingdom, it does, nonetheless, share some aspects such as cooler temperatures and rainy days.

Asturias has wonderful places. Ranging from Oviedo, its colourful capital, to the cultural city of Gijón, to the scenic Cangas de Onís, to the popular village of Ribadesella, from where the famous canoeing down the river Sella is organised. The British daily The Telegraph featured in its article some of its favourite spots. Here are the reasons for Asturias’ acclaim.

The Oviedo – Gijón – Avilés triangle

Oviedo: getting to know the capital

Oviedo, the region’s capital, is a pearl set upon a beautiful natural landscape. Visiting Oviedo is synonymous with marvelling at its quaint city centre streets. Its adorned cobblestone streets contrast with its fountains and stone buildings. The striking Plaza de la Catedral, the town hall, and the beautiful San Francisco Park are some of the must-see sites. In this lastly mentioned place, the current date is displayed with flowers on the grass.

One obligatory place to visit in this city is the traditional market of El Fontán. Located next to the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, this is a perfect spot to enjoy such traditional Asturian specialties as cheese, charcuterie and fish, all of which can be washed down with fresh cider. The Invierno Park and the streets of Uría and Gascona culminate this magical walking tour around the Asturian capital.

Gijón: cultural epicentre

The city of Gijón, known regionally as Asturias’ cultural capital, is surprising for a variety of reasons. The first is for the splendour of its old quarter and its colourful port. The second reason is for its tapas scene, considered one of the best in all of Asturias.

For beach lovers, a tour of the city at the stunning San Lorenzo beach, situated next to the port near the church of San Pedro, is a good starting point. Along this maritime promenade lies the sculpture Elogio del Horizonte on the Santa Catalina hill, one of Gijón’s most emblematic sites.

If an urban setting is preferred, a visit to Cimadevilla, an old fisherman’s quarter where the best seafood delicacies can be found, is recommended. Close to this area, specifically on the Cuesta del Cholo, the region’s best ciders are served and it is the ideal place to start off the night.

Avilés, historic town

What immediately catches the eye in Avilés is its striking old quarter, a picturesque scene from the Middle Ages. Its arcades supporting small homes, its winding streets and the splendid Plaza del Ayuntamiento make up the first impressions of this gorgeous town. Some of the recommended places to visit here are the Plaza del Mercado, the Ferrera Palace, and the churches of Vieja de Sabugo and San Nicolás de Bari.

Asturian cave art

Tito Bustillo cave

One of the great historical wonders that is hidden in Asturias, the Tito

Bustillo cave is one of Europe’s most important cave art sites, exemplifying Palaeolithic art. Located quite close to the lovely village of Ribadesella, this impressive underground complex spans 700 metres and contains more than 100 Palaeolithic paintings dating between 22,000 and 10,000 BCE. A historical exhibition in which a profusion of horse and reindeer drawings may be observed.

The cave art of El Buxu in Cangas de Onís

Located very near the village of Cangas de Onís, El Buxu cave is another prehistoric display to be found in Asturias. Discovered in 1916, the most recent studies of El Buxu suggest that this site served as a settlement during the summer and autumn seasons. In the cave, numerous engravings and paintings in the form of birds, bears, horses, goats, and deer in addition to symbolic geometric figures can be found.

La Lluera cave in Priorio

Another prehistoric, must-see site on any trip to Asturias is La Lluera cave, a few minutes journey from the village of Priorio. In its interior, one can behold paintings of such animals as horses, deer and bison. Owing to its location, it is thought that this cave may have served more as a sanctuary than a place of habitual residence.

A bit of history of the hillfort of Coaña

As in the case of many other hillforts, the one in Coaña has an uncertain origin. For years it was thought it dated back to the 1st century BC, when the natives contacted the Romans. However, the evidence has been delaying the estimate until the 4th or 5th BC. This implies that the castreña culture had fortresses long before the arrival of the invaders from the Italic peninsula.

Because what characterised these ancient inhabitants of Iberia were precisely their walled settlements. Small isolated towns, such as Coaña, that is believed to have housed hundreds of souls during its peak period. Spread between Galicia, Asturias, León, Zamora and Portugal, close to the Duero river.

The funerary uses, without urns to deposit the remains of their loved ones. Their lifestyle combined farming, obtaining raw materials from the environment and metallurgy, and they were even excellent goldsmiths. The Romans meant the end of this culture whose remains survived in Galicia, for example in Santa Trega. Finally, the belief of it being the most famous hillfort in Asturias comes from its extensive study. José María Flórez made the first serious excavations in the late 19th century. Many more archaeologists would arrive later.

The keys of the hillfort of Coaña

The fact that it can be visited is perhaps its most important feature, otherwise it would not be a very good weekend getaway. That said, the stamp of the also called Castrillón stands out. There are two clearly differentiated segments. On the one hand, the acropolis, which is less restored, and on the other the lower area of houses. Both have their own walls, several lines wider in the case of the upper part. Between the neighborhoods, in the access, the remains of a powerful tower can be distinguished. It is also known that there were moats that complemented the walls, although today they are covered.

It has around 80 huts, round, and oval in some cases. There are also larger rooms, presumably communal spaces for labor or storage. Of these, the most interesting are a dupla that intermingles curved and rectangular plant. Their function, like the origin of the hillfort of Coaña, has been reinterpreted. Although they were believed to be crematory ovens, today they are considered spaces associated with water. A curious historiographic oxymoron. They are also said to have been a type of saunas. In any case, they are usually interpreted as sacred rooms.

The results of the intensive study of Coaña are reflected in a didactic classroom. It reviews the elements that characterised the castreña culture, paying special attention to the hillfort. Regarding the opening hours of the site, it is open every day but Mondays and Tuesdays.

Places near the hillfort of Coaña

In nearby Coaña, the town that gives its name to the hillfort, stands a granite disk. It is the so-called stone of Nuestra Señora, a Christianised denomination for a monument that is believed to date from the same period as the forthill. It is very curious. Following the Navia estuary to the sea you reach El Espín and the town of the same name, one on the left bank and the other on the right. The latter is a town of interest, perfect to enjoy Asturian gastronomy and it has a very active naval industry. It is also a crossing point for the Northern Way of Camino de Santiago.

Towards Galicia, the A-8 allows you to quickly reach charming places such as the hillfort of Cabo Blanco, Viavélez or Tapia de Casariego. Finally, there is another estuary, the Ribadeo or Eo, depending on which side you ask. On the Asturian side, Vegadeo (or simple Eo) stands out and on the Galician side, you will find Ribadeo. The bridge that leads to the latter is almost as impressive as the panoramic view of the town. Another place of good food that also boasts great examples of Indian architecture.

Heading east from Navia, you'll reach the charming Puerto de Vega in no time. A little further on is the impressive Luarca. The birthplace of Severo Ochoa and the well-known bus company ALSA has one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the country. In addition, its horseshoe-shaped layout leaves the best postcards to show off when you get back home. Small temples, restaurants of every cuisine, beaches, pastry shops and narrow and steep streets starting from the port complete a village that has nothing to envy to other fishing villages such as the exploited Cudillero.

For being unique

The fort of Coaña or Castrillón is a well restored and full of history green place. A border of the hillfort culture, right next to the Asturian culture, which began in the Navia estuary. This place, very accessible and surrounded by nature, sums up the typical image of Asturias. In this case, the fame is more than justified. Little more needs to be said.

Explore Asturias in depth through these 7 routes

Cabo Blanco Trail: 7,3 km

The Cabo Blanco trail can be done starting from Porcía beach or from the town of La Caridad or Tapia de Casariego and has a low difficulty and duration of between two and three hours. The route is the perfect opportunity to get to know some of the most beautiful landscapes of the Asturias and its coast. Starting from Porcía beach, in the Asturian council of El Franco, you will have to walk through a rural environment until you reach the well-known Fonfría Palace, built in the 16th century on top of what used to be an old three-storey tower. After this, you will arrive at Monello beach from where you can enjoy a beautiful viewpoint.

Returning on our steps we will reach Porcía beach and with it its viewpoint, from where we can contemplate an amazing marine landscape typical of Asturias, full of coves that extend to Tapia de Casariego. In the vicinity of the viewpoint there is an explanatory panel with the history of a shipwreck in 1928, called Waldemburg.

Oneta Waterfalls Trail: 1.5 km

The Oneta Waterfalls trail is one of the simplest and shortest hiking routes in Asturias and can be completed in just one hour. There are three waterfalls that make up the group, although this route only includes visits to two of them, as the third has a very complicated access.

To reach the second waterfall, La Firbia de Abajo, you must return to the path and continue walking for about 300 metres through the forest. Hidden among more vegetation, it is the end point of the route.

Teixo Trail: 10 km

La Paicega Trail: 6.5 km

This is another of the low-difficulty hiking trails in Asturias. Starting from Pesoz, capital of the council called Igual, begins the route of A Paicega. Amongst forests where birches and chestnut trees grow, we reach the village of Sanzo. In this area of the route we must highlight the panoramic views of the castro of Santa Cruz and the valley of Agüeira.

Valle de Lago Trail: 6 km

With a low difficulty, the Valle de Lago trail is perfect to do with tranquility. The tour starts in the town of Valle de Lago, in the council of Somiedo. It is a straight path until you reach the Lago del Valle where the route gives idyllic images of flora, fauna, slopes, mountains... The route is part of the Somiedo Natural Park, also known as a Biosphere Reserve.

La Seimeira Trail: 3.5 km

The Seimeira trail will take us approximately two and a half hours to walk. To begin with, you must cross the village of Pumares from the recreational area of the same name, following the opposite direction to the Agüeira riverbed. Although Pumares is currently dedicated to rural tourism, in the past there was a lot of ironwork activity.

Acantilados del Infierno Trail: 5.5 km

With the passing of time, the sea has carved original sculptures in the rock that can be seen today on the route through the cliffs of El Infierno. A walk through soft mountains where you can see animals such as goats and cows and the breeze that comes from the waters of the Cantabrian Sea in the nearby Ribadesella.

This route does not have a path as such, but follows the coastline between meadows and roads. In the first part of the route along the cliffs of El Infierno you should enjoy a good view of the Bufones de Pría. This is a phenomenon in which water enters the caves below and is pushed out through the jesters. Then, once the kilometre is over, the high cliffs begin to make an appearance. Some of those that rise solemnly on this route are Castro Arenas and Tomasón, among others.

Following the coastline and reaching the end of the route, the cliffs of El Infierno appear. Two gigantic stone arches stand out, joining parts of the cliff. To return to the starting point; at the end of the five and a half kilometers a trail with two paths appears. To go back, take the left one, to visit Ribadesella, the right one.

Being a passageway for cattle, Bulnes became a village when some shepherds decided to stay and live there. At first, and for the most part of history, the inhabitants of Bulnes have remained isolated from the world. Literally, considering there is nothing connecting it to civilisation other than a mountain path leading to the municipality of Poncebos.

However, their lives changed when they established a cable car in 2001. Said cable car connects Poncebos and Bulnes through an underground railway that goes on for 2 kilometres. Thus, the visitor can get there in about 7 minutes. However, everyday at 6pm, the cable car stops running and the village goes back to being isolated from the world.

A route into the heart of Picos de Europa

When we step out of the cable car, the views awaiting us are simply spectacular. Bulnes lies at a height of 649 metres, in a lovely valley surrounded by the mountain range of Picos de Europa. In the distance, the renowned peak Naranjo de Bulnes, also called Pico Urriellu, watches over the village. In fact, Bulnes is a prelude to the peak, only four or five hours away by foot. Nevertheless, there are more routes departing from there. For example, we could plan a trip to Sotres, Fuente Dé or Collado Pandébano.

If we had to choose a route one cannot miss in Bulnes, it would probably be the one departing from Poncebos and ending up in Bulnes. The Cares Trail is another delightful route that starts in Poncebos. If you were to ask the people living in that secluded spot how to get there for the first time, they would suggest taking the path that spreads along the channel of Texu. This is actually the way they used before having a cable car.

The path spreads for four kilometres and it has a slope of 400 metres, sometimes reaching an 18% angle. However, the time it takes varies from an hour and a half to two hours, and it is almost for all audiences. One can even go up and down in the same day.

Bulnes, a journey to tranquillity

No matter how they get there, the visitor will see the same thing: a small village with stone houses, many of them in ruins, divided into two sections. On the one hand, we have Bulnes de Abajo (“Lower Bulnes”), also known as the Villa. On the other, resting on a hill, there is Bulnes de Arriba (“Upper Bulnes”), or the castle. The latter has fewer buildings, and the houses there are older.

Bulnes de Abajo provides more services, like coffee shops, restaurants, and accommodation. When they installed the cable car, tourism increased drastically, so much so that they make a living of that during the summer months. By contrast, in winter, the inhabitants of Bulnes live as they used to in the past: with cattle and under harsh conditions not many people would be able to endure. In 2021, Bulnes had only 27 inhabitants, and most of them did not live there throughout the year.

Living in Bulnes might be a challenge, but who would decline spending a couple of days there, far from the noise of the city and the cars? At the end of the day, visiting Bulnes is but a journey to tranquility.

More about the history of Bandujo

This Asturian parish has its origins in 8th century, when it was still known as Vandugio and was only a small village. There are no buildings left from this period, but there is a path that can still be followed. There is also a document from the year 912, related to the cathedral of Oviedo, which certifies both the location of the settlement and the existence of a Romanesque style church.

It is believed that Bandujo adopted its current form, which consists of different neighbourhoods connected to each other, from the 12th century until the 18th century. It was also at this period when a lineage was born, which has been present throughout its history:  the Álvarez de Bandujo family, associated with a remarkable circular tower that still stands today. It is one of the best examples of defensive towers in Asturias.

The remoteness of the place can be defined by the following fact: it was not until the last century that Bandujo had a halfway decent access road to the place. Until then, it was just this primitive medieval road that had access to the parish.

Key facts of the Asturian parish

Located in the Asturian mountains, at an altitude of 700 metres, Bandujo's summers are cool and humid, and its winters are cold. When snow falls often isolates the forty neighbours who still live in the different neighbourhoods. So, they, in addition to value this place, live in Bandujo, which in 2009 was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in the category of Historic Site. Therefore, as tourists, we must not forget that this is a place where many people spend their daily lives. It should also not be forgotten that to romanticise rural areas too much is like ignoring the difficulties that they often suffer from.

However, it is worth discovering and understanding the seven neighbourhoods that are part of Bandujo. All of them have their respective stone houses and some elements that appear to belong to another time, such as the raised granaries. Its impressive location in the mountains is also noticeable at every step you take.

Two monuments stand out in this medieval destination. Firstly, the church of Santa María, which still has a medieval appearance, although it was remodeled in the 18th century. Its origins date back to the 10th century and it has simple shapes: Romanesque style and a single nave. The cemetery is also worth visiting, where every year on All Souls' Day the tombs are covered with flowers.

Another highlight is the tower previously mentioned, known as the tower of Bandujo or the tower of Tuñón. It was built between the 11th and 13th centuries and has a circular plan and has four floors. The shield with the coats of arms of the Tuñón, Miranda and Bandujo families, three families that had a significant influence on the development of the area, can still be seen on the tower.

Other interesting places near to Bandujo

Although the two main cities of Asturias, Gijón and Oviedo, are just over an hour away each, the best recommendation is to explore the inland countryside. Just over half an hour away, the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Nature Park will surprise you with its infinite natural beauty. The hiking routes that can be discovered by going deeper into its surroundings will fascinate lovers of nature and peacefulness. Besides, as it has been already mentioned, Senda del Oso route is one of the most incredible ones. It is also significant not to forget to mention the Peña Ubiña massif, the second highest mountain in the region behind the Picos de Europa. It reaches an altitude of 2,400 metres.

The Somiedo Nature Park is a little further away, but also accessible. It also reaches an altitude of 2,000 metres, but it has also a descent to 400 metres to discover a different landscape. It is interesting to highlight the beautiful lakes within this area, such as Saliencia, or the typical “brañas” (summer pasture area on village land) with their “teitos” (typical construction of Somiedo), which are also useful for discovering the work of the shepherds in the area.

The perfect combination of nature and history

The main reason of being the perfect destination is that discovering Bandujo is a fantastic immersion in an authentic medieval environment located in the mountains of Asturias, which makes it a priceless experience. This parish allows visitors to enjoy the natural paradise of this region, in which history and culture are its two basic features.

From church to skate park

Before being called Kaos Temple, this building housed, as already mentioned, the workers of an explosives factory. But after the Spanish Civil War, the company closed. With no work available, the families who still lived in the old colony emigrated to other cities and the enclave was left uninhabited.

In the 1960s, a private company acquired the land of the old colony with the intention of using it as an industrial estate and the area became known as the Asipo industrial estate. It was then that all the buildings were demolished except for one: the church of Santa Barbara, which in practice was abandoned. It remained abandoned until 2007, when a young commercial agent, Ernesto Fernández Rey, bought the building with the intention of building a multiservice company. But the project of Jernest, as this man, who died in 2016, was popularly known, did not go ahead, so he decided to use the place as the place to practice his hobby: skateboarding.

Thus, the Church Brigade collective, to which Jernest belonged, went on to take on the remodeling of the church. When the project was already progressing, the artist Óscar San Miguel Erice, better known as Okuda, entered the scene.

Okuda's intervention: a turning point

'It's really the only project, next to the Santander school, that has come from me and not from a proposal,' says the painter. 'I fell in love with the place because I saw on the internet a church that had a perfect symmetry between the dome of the altar and the ramps below,' he adds. After seeing the images, Okuda contacted the organization, which gave him a free hand to do whatever he wanted on the immaculate walls of the building.

In order to finance the project, Okuda launched a crowdfunding campaign that, according to the artist, 'was a marvel'. Thus, with the help of different patrons, including some brands, San Miguel raised the money to continue with the dream of Kaos Temple. 'Then they have raised more money to complete it all. The whole floor is a skate park and that's what made it even more wonderful,' Okuda adds.

Kaos Temple was the first church in which the author has intervened, although more followed. One in Morocco, known as Youssoufia's church, and another in Denver, Colorado. 'This was a turning point in my career,' says Okuda, who has seen his popularity increase since that initiative: 'The truth is that it has gone around the world and I had many proposals before, but after this it has been crazy'.

The Kaos Temple roof, a sky built in seven days

Although the artist claims to take an average of four or five days on most of his projects, in the case of the Kaos Temple the task took him longer. Specifically, seven days, ironically as long as it took God to create the world. Although Okuda and his assistants, Mister Piro, Antonyo Marest and Pablo Hatt, did not use the seventh day to rest, but to work. 'It's kind of a religious number and it's quite funny to me,' San Miguel points out.

The delay in this mural was due to the ceilings, a space that Okuda is not so used to painting, since he is more dedicated to open spaces or studio work: 'It got a little more complex because of this, because in the end it is not the same on a wall as on a ceiling'. However, the artist managed to adapt to the space and was delighted with the result: 'It was a brutal visual impact'.

And the result is what follows: a church of neo-Romanesque plan with neo-Gothic details colored by the particular style of Okuda. All of it, a continent that embraces a skate park, which was inaugurated in 2015 and opened not only to the Church Brigade collective, but to the general public, who made Kaos Temple a skate mecca [although it is currently closed until further notice]. Thus, vaulted walls and ceilings from the early 20th century are complemented by geometric figures and vibrant colors, the artist's classic style. 'There I learned that contemporary art looks amazing with classical architecture,' says San Miguel.

Likewise, the naming and arrangement of the murals have their own raison d'être. 'One of my icons is a kind of asymmetrical compass rose,' says the author. This sign is a circle that marks the directions in which the horizon is divided. Okuda indicates that the idea symbolized by both the design of the church and its name is just that: 'That if you want to do something you can do it, especially to make your personal path'.

A very special project

It's been seven years since Okuda completed Kaos Temple. Since then, the artist's works have continued to spread around the world. From the Valencia City Hall falla that burned during the 2018 festivities to the aforementioned temples in Morocco and Colorado, as well as other projects in China, Cuba or Peru. But, for Okuda, the Kaos Temple was very special 'because it was one of the first powerful ones'. And because, among other things, his family was able to visit it. 'What I enjoyed the most was being close to my parents' house', says the Cantabrian.

The western coast of Asturias treasures lots of wonders that follow one after another, like a domino. A game in which Puerto de Vega has a double score. On the one hand, that of its rich heritage, history and nature. On the other, that of that special charm that is perceived more in the short distances.

Beginning with the dock, drawn by small boats, and moving forward through the streets in the heart of the port. Puerto de Vega has many places to discover. Travelers promise to let themselves go and get ready to be surprised by the way, wherever it leads. Perhaps following the murmur of ancient Indian footsteps, until you reach a viewpoint that opens to the wind. Or glimpsing the coming and going of the tides in one of its wonderful beaches and flowing like water to some enchanted gardens. Let the journey begin!

The heartbeat of a port

The sea air is entangled in the steps, in the conversations and even in the thoughts of everyone who arrives at Puerto de Vega. An air in which past, present and future of this fishing village mix with the gusts of Celtic wind blowing nearby. While, in the background, you can feel the constant singing of a river, the Navia, serving as a refrain to an ever-present sea.

The fishing origin of this small port goes back to the old whalers that docked and departed from its dock. Two 30-ton whale jaws on display at the Mirador de la Riba, flanking the first whaling contract, remind us of this past. In the same space, a little further up, there is also an old whaling cannon with its cargo. But the life of Puerto de Vega does not begin and end with this fleet that dropped anchor for the last time around the 17th century.

The seasons continued to follow one after the other, always facing the horizon, with the sea providing a quiet life, tinged with blue. During the following years in Puerto de Vega, as in many other places along the Asturian coast, a thriving canning industry developed. One of its old buildings, La Arenesca, where the Juan Pérez Villamil Ethnographic Museum is currently located, can still be visited today.

Oceanic tones are present here and there, everywhere. In the rula or fish market, an old building from 1928 that can be accessed and where the sale of fish continues. Or in the Monument to the Women of the Sea or in the fishermen's houses. In every cobblestone of the promenade that surrounds the dock.

Following the crossing

The landscape of Puerto de Vega sticks to the skin, like water droplets do. A panorama full of absolute adjectives. Impressive, alive. A view that can be appreciated in all its splendor next to the 18th century cannons of the Mirador del Baluarte. Leaving it behind, the emblazoned houses, the old Indian quintas and their gardens, invite you to dream of a golden age. In the vicinity of the port, an imposing 18th century mansion, Las Tuerbas, owned by the Lebrón family, watches over the comings and goings of passers-by. Along the route it is possible to follow the trail to the last days of Jovellanos in the Casona Trelles, or to trace the origins of Juan Pérez Villamil. As well as the beginnings of Álvaro de Navia Osorio, lord of the House of Trelles and the Tower of Vigil, III Viscount of the Port.

The Middle Ages surprises in the square known as Cupid's Square, formerly squared by three manor houses, that of Cachán and the House of Columns. And another, now disappeared, the father of Nobel Prize Severo Ochoa. The whole transpires the transformation of the town since its beginnings as a fishing village.

The tour goes on, there is still much to discover. Do not miss the opportunity to approach the casino building or take a walk through the Benigno Blanco Park. Or go up to the Barrio Alto to visit the Church of Santa Marina. And once there, go inside to take a closer look at the baroque altarpieces by the sculptor Bernardo de Meana. In addition to the pulpit, brought from the old church, the chalice, a gift from Pérez Villamil, or the carving of San Blas. A plaque testifies that Jovellanos rested in this place for three years. It can also be a good place to take a break on the way. Maybe waiting for the movement of the hands of your watch to mark the time to get to know your surroundings.

Exploring the surroundings

Nestled in the Council of Navia and its 12 kilometers of coastline, Puerto de Vega is a perfect excuse to get to know other parts of its geography. Spaces of wild beauty, such as Frejulfe Beach, 750 meters long, declared a natural monument. It can be reached from Puerto de Vega or from the road to Andés. From the latter you can also access Coedo Beach, an old watchtower and whaling cove. Nearby, there is also the sandy beach of Fabal and then the Moro beach.

In its long journey, from its source in Piedrafita do Cebreiro, the Navia river finds its natural ford point in the village to which it gives its name. A village of promenades by the sea and remains of ancient walls that coexist with the naval tradition of its shipyard. Also, here is the passage to the interior of the Historical Park of Navia. Formerly, an obligatory stop for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, the course of the river orchestrates the surrounding nature. The up and down slopes that lead to waterfalls, the Arbón or the Doiras, recreational areas and rest areas allow you to take a moment to enjoy a snack or soak up the scenery. The natural wealth of the environment is impressive. In fact, part of it belongs to the Natural Park of the Fuentes de Narcea and Ibias.

Every village is a surprise. Castropol, no more than 25 kilometers from Navia, is the natural border between Galicia and Asturias. Besides being a promontory with a beautiful panoramic view over the Eo estuary. Also next to the Galician limits of the province of Lugo is Grandas de Salime, Asturian landmark of the primitive Way to Santiago, is an enclave with archaeological remains that are hidden among nature.

Concluding again in the same sea that bathes Puerto de Vega, you can visit the lighthouse of Tapia de Casariego. A seaside town where surfing has come to stay and can be enjoyed in its beautiful beaches of Serantes, Mexota or Santa Gadea. With all the time in the world, the stops along the way could be infinite, with the heart divided between the sea and the mountains, but always looking at the sky.

The end of the journey arrives through Puerto de Vega and when the Council of Navia approaches. There have been many surprises. But, before leaving the village, one last look. A few last steps near the dock breathing sea and peace. To approach, perhaps, to one of the bars, restaurants or cider houses to taste the local fish or seafood, while planning a next time in the west of Asturias.

The town is one of the most beautiful in the eastern part of Asturias. This is seen in the influx of visitors, especially in summer. Indiano palaces and a privileged natural environment make up what to see in Ribadesella. Because of this, the stay can range from one day to several, if you are a lover of nature or archeology. It is worth mentioning that the town is part of the Northern Way to Santiago, although it does not offer many lodging options in this regard. It is also bustling with activity during the famous Descent of the Sella.

If you wish to continue your journey, the towns of Colunga or Lastres are nearby options. To the west are three notable cities: Aviles, Gijón and Oviedo. The best places to stay and restaurants are in the pages about sleeping and eating in Ribadesella you will find all the information.

Prehistory and modernism

The local past is rooted in the dawn of humanity, so it will be reviewed before dealing with what to see in Ribadesella. Human societies have been living in this area of eastern Asturias since the Middle Paleolithic. Both the town and the Ardines Massif have become a center of prehistoric research recognized throughout Europe.

The cave of Tito Bustillo is the most outstanding example. It was declared a World Heritage Monument by UNESCO. It has a similar relevance to Altamira or the French cave of Lascaux. In addition, it is worth mentioning other caves such as: La Cuevona, La Lloseta, El Cierro or Cierru, Les Pedroses, Cova Rosa, Cueva del Ríu, Cueva del Tenis and San Antonio. Subsequently, the Orgenomescos and Salaenos spread along the Noega estuary, today Sella. Both tribes retreated before the Roman advance or were integrated into the new society of the Empire.

In early medieval times the churches of San Salvador de Oviedo and Santa María de la Vega dominated Ribadesella. By 1270 Alfonso X the Wise formally constituted the town, which had boundaries very similar to those of today. Since then it grew thanks to some shipyards that were nourished by the wood coming from the Sella. It was also used for maritime trade, which was essential due to the difficult land communications. Salmon fishing and whaling expeditions were the other bases of its economy.

Still in the Middle Ages, Ribadesella was the scene of clashes between great noble families. Among them were the Quiñones, Álvarez de las Asturias, Ruiz de Junco or Trastámara. The former finally prevailed. However, in 1488 the Catholic Monarchs proposed a change of location. Thanks to this, the town was reincorporated into the Crown along with Llanes, Cangas del Narcea and Tineo. Since then the group has been known as 'Las Cuatro Sacadas'.

In the 18th century there was a significant decline in catches of salmon and whales. In order to maintain its status, a project was presented at the end of the century to convert it into a port link with Castile. This project included the construction of a road to the Meseta. In the end, Gijón and the Pajares road were chosen.

During the War of Independence the troops of General Ballesteros were quartered in Ribadesella. The French defeated them and settled in the town, enduring the constant harassment of guerrilla groups. The second half of the century was dominated by the consequences of emigration to America. The local Indianos went mostly to Cuba.

The town remained loyal to the Republic at the beginning of the Civil War. Thus, it was the scene of heavy fighting in the summer of 1937. As a consequence, the bridge that joins the two banks of the Sella estuary was blown up. It would later be rebuilt in its present form. From that moment on, it evolved into the tourist town it is today. In addition, the well-known Northern Way to Santiago passes through it.

Fascinating places to discover in Ribadesella

This Asturian village is a quiet fishing village in winter. However, it becomes a busy tourist center in summer. Due to its location, it is divided into two areas, one on each side of the estuary. The old town is one of the most popular areas to see in Ribadesella. Declared a Historic-Artistic Site, it includes the Calle del Infante, the Plaza Vieja and the Calle Mayor. Most of it was created in the 17th and 18th centuries.

The oldest building still standing is the Prieto-Cutre Palace (16th century), located in the Plaza de la Reina María Cristina. It is characterized by the facade of well carved ashlars, ornamented with the coat of arms of the Prieto family. The style of the work is advanced plateresque. The openings of the façade are asymmetrically arranged with pure lines. The building is the headquarters of the riosellano City council and one of the key points to see in Ribadesella.

It is also worth mentioning the group of buildings with arcades on López Muñiz street, among which the Casa de Ardines stands out. It is a residence of an illustrious family of merchants, sailors and military. For its part, the Plaza de la Iglesia is named after a defunct temple.

Meanwhile, on Fernandez Juncos Street there are several houses of special architectural interest. Some examples are the Casa de González Prieto, today the Casa de Correos, and the Casa de Collado, a famous merchant family. Both stand out for the monumental 18th century coat of arms located on their stone façade.

Following this tour of the stately homes to see in Ribadesella, it is necessary to highlight the set of the Plaza de la Atalaya. There you will find the Casa del Pixuecu and the Palacio de la Atalaya.

It is  now time to go to the Paseo de la Grúa. This road was opened at the end of the 18th century as a towpath, margin of way that had to leave the riparian owners. In the route of the walk, among the sparse grove, is La Fuentina. This stone sculpture reproduces a Xana, nymph of the fountains, and two mythological bears. This landmark pays homage to La Fonte del Cay, a work by the outstanding writer in bable Pepín de Pría.

At the end of the Grúa path there is a traffic circle intended to assist ships entering the port of the town. This old port infrastructure is an interesting example of the solid engineering of the time.

From there, ascending Mount Corberu, you reach the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de Guía. Reformed in 1892, it houses the image of the patron saint of sailors. The three cannons that can be seen at the top were thrown into the sea by the French in their retreat in 1811. However, they were restored in 1999.

To see the other side of Ribadesella you can walk along the Paseo de la Princesa Letizia. This goes from the Lonja del Pescado to the bridge. Along with the parallel Calle de los Marqueses de Argüelles is where most of the local cider houses and restaurants are located.

At the opposite end of the bridge that joins both banks of the estuary is the beach of Santa Marina. This place was created in the early 20th century, promoted by the Marquise of Argüelles. Luxury residences, modernist palaces and ostentatious chalets of indianos were built there. The Chalet de la Marquesa de Argüelles and Villa Rosario stand out. Both are now hotels. Another notable example is the House of the Uría-Aza brothers, which has a collection of outdoor sculpture.

A fishing atmosphere typical of Northern Spain

The Tito Bustillo Cave is the largest site to see in Ribadesella. Discovered in 1968, it has an impressive collection of paintings of surprising quality. It is a cave of recognizable natural beauty, with its intricate galleries. The stalagmites help to compose a visual symphony. Recently. For all these reasons, it is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Monuments.

As a complement, you can visit the Tito Bustillo Cave Art Center and La Cuevona, another wonderful natural monument. The rest of the surrounding caves have much more restricted visits. The Cueva de la Moría, the Cierro cave and the Les Pedroses cave stand out.

In the surroundings of the town, which is part of the so-called Dinosaur Coast along with Gijón, Villaviciosa and Colunga, there are monuments of recognized attraction. The Church of Santa María de Junco, for example, is Romanesque, with a single nave and rectangular floor plan. It also has a semicircular apse preceded by a straight section. Its triumphal arch is supported by six columns with capitals in which there are interesting representations of monstrous heads.

Another important medieval sanctuary to see in Ribadesella and surroundings is that of San Mamés de Cuerres. Its stone vault is full of crosses and engravings from the 14th century. In the town of Leces is the Temple of San Esteban, of Romanesque origin. The Chapel of Santa Rita, in Barréu, and the Church of San Martín de Collera are also very interesting.

Regarding the civil architecture of the surroundings, the 14th century Torre de Junco and the Torre de San Esteban de Leces stand out. This belonged to the Ruiz de Junco family, who owned a palace in Sebreño built in the mid-16th century. It was rebuilt in the 18th century, following the model of 'U' shaped plant.

Finally, it should be noted that the town is part of the network of Villas Marineras (fishing villages). This groups the also Asturian Cudillero and Llanes, the Galician Baiona, Sanxenxo, Ortigueira and Viveiro and the Cantabrian San Vicente de la Barquera, Santoña and Laredo.

The only way to access the village of Cueves is through the cave known as the Cuevona. This natural cave is one of the few examples worldwide of a paved cave, as vehicles can drive through it. The uniqueness lies in the fact that you can only enter Cueves through this 300-meter long tunnel in the middle of the mountain. The path is fascinating, as it is accompanied by a stream and the stalactites, columns and stalagmites that have formed inside. However, few know of another access route, thanks to the railway halt that is located in the village.

How to get to the Cueves Caves

The Cuevona de Cueves is a natural cave that serves as access to the Asturian village that gives it its name. By road it is located approximately 7 kilometers from Ribadesella, following the route to the junction of Junco while admiring a landscape of great beauty. The mountain is crossed by La Cuevona to reach Cueves. This natural pass, used by the inhabitants of Cueves to move around, was paved as a means of communication. Illuminated with dim light, it is an experience both on foot and by car, because observing the geological formations found here is almost magical.

Cueves Cave.

Of calcareous formation, the cave maintains its original structure. Inside you can see vaults, stalactites and stalagmites, lava flows and columns that take on shapes for which the imagination has given names such as 'the beards of Santiago' or even 'the devil's tongue'.

A walk through the interior of a mountain through 300 meters of calm where you can also observe the special flora and fauna that develops here. Mosses, ferns, fungi, algae and lichens that are located especially at the entrance and exit of the Cuevona. In the case of the fauna, although human presence has caused the departure of some species, others such as frogs, blind salamanders and bats still make the Cuevona their home. However, few specimens are located here.

The small Cueves

After the Cuevona we find the village of Cueves, on the banks of the river sella and under a mountain, a rural small village in which barely 100 inhabitants live. The road practically ends at the entrance of the village, so this will be traveled on foot. Upon arrival in Cueves the first thing we see is a hermitage dedicated to Santiago. This dedication is common in the area due to the Northern Way to Santiago. The rest of the houses in the village have a traditional architecture that contrasts with others that were built for holiday use.

As the economy of Cueves is based from its origins in agriculture, it is possible to observe in the locality different raised granaries, known as hórreos, because there was one per family. These structures were used to protect the grain. Of all those that existed here, five are still preserved today. Some of them are still in operation. In fact, it is the village of the municipality that has the largest number of them.

It should be noted that the hórreos of Asturias have their own characteristics that distinguish them from those of León and Galicia. Their square structure rests on the trabes, wooden slats. Depending on the area in which they are located, the roof of the hórreo can be of tile, rye straw or slate. In Cueves the roof is of tile. To prevent rodents from climbing up and eating what was preserved in the hórreos, the beams rest on a slab called muela. The stairway that leads to them never touches the ground or the structure of the hórreo, to prevent vermin from ascending.

On the other hand, the visit can be completed with some hiking, taking advantage of the fact that the Route of the Mills begins its route in the same village of Cueves. Thanks to this you can learn how these hydraulic infrastructures used to work.

A bit of history of Cimadevilla

Cimadevilla is the oldest neighborhood of Gijón, its old town. So much so that you can still enjoy the traces that the Roman Empire left in its wake. You can still distinguish the remains of a wall and some baths in this peninsula of Santa Catalina, which took its name from the ancient chapel of Santa Catalina.

What stands out above all in Cimadevilla, in any case, is the fishing atmosphere that characterizes all the towns that grow around the sea. In this case, the aesthetics of a 19th century fishermen's neighborhood is what dominates the whole. When talking about these men and women of the sea, it is also worth mentioning the Santa Catalina Sailors' Guild which, growing around Cimadevilla, became the oldest and most powerful guild in Gijón. It belonged to the Hermandad de las Marismas, on which they depended to establish rules for their work. It consisted, basically, in guiding the sailors who arrived new to Gijón in their last steps to the port, to avoid misfortunes. And to earn a salary, of course.

In recent years, the traditional houses have been rehabilitated, but they have not lost their essence. Cimadevilla is still the oldest and most traditional neighborhood of Gijón.

The keys of Gijón's old town

As is often the case with this type of places, the best way to discover it is without a map, letting yourself get carried away by improvisation. Certain elements of interest should be noted, just in case the spontaneous evolution does not lead to them. One should visit, for example, the Plaza Mayor. From this and taking the direction towards the Cantabric, the Monument to Pelayo is discovered, an important sculpture by the artist José María López Rodríguez, which was inaugurated in 1891. Also the Palace of Revillagigedo, a baroque building of the 18th century where art exhibitions of modern art are held.

Leaving behind the Cider Tree, another monument that should also be appreciated, you can now enjoy the Marina. Its well-kept facilities and beautiful surroundings make it one of the most acclaimed in the Cantabric. The breakwater that closes the port offers authentic spectacles of waves crashing when the sea is rough. The sunsets, by the way, should be captured from the Cuesta del Cholo, looking towards the port.

More spots. The church of San Pedro, a 15th century Gothic temple, was the only parish church in the city until the end of the 19th century. It was destroyed, like so many other buildings, during the Civil War, but was later rebuilt. Mention should also be made of the Soledad Chapel, which dates from the 17th century. It was the headquarters of this Guild of the Mareantes, today it is a place of remembrance and celebration.

A walk through Cimadevilla cannot end without topping the hill of Santa Catalina. At the top, watching over the neighborhood and the city, the Eulogy of the Horizon by Eduardo Chillida serves to illustrate, once again, the fantastic way in which past and present coexist.

Spots near Cimadevilla

You should not leave Gijón without visiting the whole city, of course. Nor without enjoying its beaches: the Poniente beach or the famous beach of San Lorenzo, especially the latter, offer beautiful panoramas. Gijón, with its seafaring character and its cider, is an excellent choice for any weekend.

If you have the opportunity to enjoy more time on Asturias, you should not leave without visiting Lastres, one of the most beautiful villages in Asturias. Continuing along the coast to the east, Ribadesella awaits, which has one of the most impressive promenades in northern Spain. Both are part of this travel proposal that leads to tour the coast of paradise on earth.

The essence of Gijón

Gijón is a very interesting city and within this attraction, Cimadevilla usually gets all the attention. It is the oldest neighborhood of the city, but it is also a sample of the cultural present of the city and also of the possibilities that will come with the future. Social life, art, culture, history and beauty, with the Cantabric Sea always there. Cimadevilla has it all.

At more than 2,500 meters, it lives with its karst heights with the Torre del Tiro Llago, the Pico San Carlos or the Macondiú. All of them guardians of the dreams of many mountaineers who raised their eyes to the roof of this Natural Park inhabited by the wind. The Asturian relief cannot be understood without the Naranjo de Bulnes, protector of stories and legends, lord of the open valley in the Vega del Urriellu. Watchman of forests, rivers and smoking chimneys of small villages hidden in quiet corners that shout its presence. Traveling to Asturias to get to know it means setting out on an expedition, not only geological, but also historical, dreamlike... It is about listening to what nature has to tell.

Climbs, adventures and traveling legends of the wind

The Naranjo de Bulnes was born from a glaciation. An imposing ice age that fell on the geography of the Picos de Europa about 40,000 years ago, in the Quaternary period. Two glacial tongues surrounded it changing its morphology, until it was smoothed in such a way that it does not present any edge.

The history of this imposing Asturian peak, framed in the territory of the Cantabrian Mountain Range, is a story forged in the passage of centuries and seasons. A history of ice with a name where the pre-Roman prefix "ur" is anchored, a land elevation also present in other giants of Asturias. The Urrieles, Urra and Orro massifs share it.

The Urriellu, as it is known in Asturian, is a geometry with several faces accessed in different ways, invoking ancient names and expeditionaries. On the west face, 'Sagittarius' or 'Mediterranean'. On the north, the primordial 'Pidal- Cainejo' or the 'Turquoise Goddess". While on the east, 'La Luna' or 'Friendship with the Devil'. In the south, 'Amanecer Incierto' or 'Dile al Sol'. The names are many, as well as the roads. There are as many baptisms as there are sets and ascents.

The first ascent was made at the beginning of the 20th century, in 1904, by Pedro Pidal and Bernardo de Quirós, Marquis of Villaviciosa. They were accompanied by a shepherd from León and together they drew the Pidal-Cainejo route on the north face of the mountain. The ascents followed one after the other, led by a variety of mountaineers. From a German, Guillermo Schulz, a university scholar in geology to whom we owe the baptism of this rocky mass as the Naranjo de Bulnes. Even a neighbor of the nearby village that gives its name or a couple of mountaineers from Aragon. With picks, ropes and pegs, they were sketching routes and steps.

Starting from the base, in the Vega del Urriellu, many have invented ways to ascend to the sky. For some, life was extinguished during the winter ascent to the west face, 500 meters of vertical and cold wall. Others contemplated it from the top after completing the Rabadá and Navarro route.

It is said that the pioneers stopped to appreciate the colossus from El Collado. They climbed up the Canal de la Celada to the Morra del Carnizoso, overcame enormous crevasses, obstacles in the shape of 'Panza de Burra' and crowned the ascent. Legend has it that in spring Pedro Pidal used to visit the Naranjo de Bulnes. "Hello, old friend, how did you spend the winter?", he would ask him, looking at him, always unchanged, from the Pozo de la Oración viewpoint, between Poo and Carreña, villages in the Cabrales region. Years later, although buried in Covadonga, he was reunited, in fulfillment of his last wish, with his limestone comrade. Since 1949 his remains have rested in the Mirador de Ordiales. From there he never loses sight of the path to the clouds.

Contemplating Naranjo de Bulnes

In Sotres nestle the memories of thousands of climbing and adventure plans. From there starts the main route to reach the Vega del Urriellu. The highest village in Asturias, in the heart of the Picos de Europa, is the starting and finishing point for those who face the challenge.

The stone houses appear among the trees, while herds of goats and sheep play hide and seek among the rocks and meadows. To get there you have to follow the Duje riverbed from the Poncebos Bridge. There, from the viewpoint, if the fog allows it, you can already see the Naranjo in the distance. As the road goes on, you can sense the entrance to the Cabrales area, a spectacular landscape, cradle of a unique cheese-making tradition. The funicular leads directly to Bulnes, from where the Urriellu is even more impressive for its proximity.

Leaving Poncebos, following the path that runs along the river gorge, Carmameña awaits, still in the Cabrales area. More than 400 meters above the sea, near the Cares Gorge, a small paved road serves as an improvised viewpoint. The Urriellu is imposing over an image that changes color with the seasons. In Asiego, the Pedro Udaondo viewpoint not only offers stunning views, but also a place of rest and peace.

The orography is all ascents and descents. From the Tielve Valley to the Moñetas Valley, where a lake keeps, in its depths, the reflections of centuries. Nearby, in Tresviso, the traveler is greeted by images that seem frozen in time. Shepherds tending their flocks, huts and mountain panoramas impossible to forget. Following the trail of a mining past, one arrives at the border scar that divides Asturias and Cantabria. But first awaits the Refugio de Áliva, a land of lead and zinc entrails. In winter, following the Cares route, Cain emerges, already in Leon lands, immersed in the Valdeón Valley. It appears as a snow-covered postcard, a reminder of its illustrious neighbor, "El Cainejo", adventure companion of the first climbers of Pico Urriellu.

In another direction, Pandébano works as a new visual anteroom to the expected Naranjo de Bulnes. Together with the latter, the Collado de Vallejo has become an obligatory step towards the Paleozoic giant. At its base, the stone houses of Bulnes, the small town from which it takes its name, are entangled in the mountains. At the end of the village, a viewpoint emerges as a promise to touch the sky. Arriving at the refuge, the peak is in front of you. The sound of water and the chirping of birds accompany the walk along the cobblestone streets and echo among the peaks.

Introduction and epilogue in the Picos de Europa

When you visit the Picos de Europa something happens that is difficult to explain. A spell that invites you to stay a little longer, to know a little more. Do not miss the opportunity to feel this mountainous land nestled between Asturias, Leon and Cantabria. Geography of myths, glacial lakes, hermitages and valleys surrounded by rivers. Uphills and downhills The valleys are full of lush beech forests, from Covadonga and its glacial waters, to the Sella or Cares riverbeds.

Lush beech forests abound, such as Montecortegueros or Sajambre, and pastures await the arrival of summer. The Enol and the Ercina reflect the sky furrowed by eagles and vultures, and among the trees watch the roe deer and wild boar. When dusk falls, calm takes over this fragment of Asturias declared a Biosphere Reserve, but the night brings another spectacle, in the form of starry constellations. The march can continue to infinity, no matter the direction. The landscape persists in its attraction like a magnet. It only remains to decide to let yourself be magnetized and enjoy it.

Bears and wolves among oak and beech trees

Located inside the Natural Park of Narcea, Degaña and Ibias, the largest oak forest in Spain is also considered one of the best preserved in Europe. Muniellos was subjected to forestry exploitation for centuries, from 1768 until the end of the 20th century. Fortunately, in 1982 it was declared a National Biological Reserve and, in 2000, UNESCO made it a Biosphere Reserve, which gave the forest great protection. Because of its importance and natural value, to visit Muniellos you have to book in advance, as the entrance is restricted to 20 people per day.

But what is so special about this forest? Easy. A flora that is reborn in every season. A different landscape for each season. A rich and free fauna. Huge oaks of different species intermingle with beech and birch trees. The Muniellos river crosses the landscape like an open wound from which flows a torrent of water, fed, in turn, by many other streams. Yew and holly trees are also hidden among the natural framework.

Travelers are only temporary visitors to the vegetation. As permanent inhabitants of Muniellos, the animals that live in its innermost recesses. Packs of wolves settle in the mountains of the natural park and feed, in turn, on the wild boars and roe deer that also roam the area. Hunting grouse, squirrels and jays is the fox that camouflages its orange fur with the ocher tones of autumn. From the sky, many birds watch over the environment. Among them imposing birds of prey such as the sparrowhawk, the common buzzard or the golden eagle. And, as king of the animal family, the Cantabrian brown bear resides in Muniellos. As you can see, a very complete family.

The routes of the forest of Muniellos

The forest of Muniellos sits on a Paleozoic substrate of no less than 500 million years. The traces of the glacial cirques can still be seen on it. As proof, there are the famous lagoons of the Candanosa peak. Placed at different altitudes, the water extensions of the Peña, Grande, Fonda and La Isla form a perfect route for hiking enthusiasts.

There are a couple of options to enjoy the forest and the lagoons. In any case, the first thing to keep in mind is that the route starts from Tablizas, the reception center of the Muniellos reserve, or Casa del Guarda, as it is also known. There you can leave your car and, after confirming your attendance at the Reception Center, the visit begins.

The first option is the so-called river route, a trail of about 16 kilometers that ends at the Isla Lagoon, from where you return to the starting point. This trail crosses the river valley, as well as goes into the forest. When you reach the intersection called Tres Cruces you can either return or continue to the rest of the lagoons. It is an easy, but long way. The second option, however, is even longer and more difficult. It is known as the circular route, of 20 kilometers and more than 950 meters of elevation gain. In this route the altitude will allow the visitor to contemplate the landscape from the summit.

Corners close to the forest

The Muniellos forest is located next to the town of Cangas del Narcea. The Narcea and Naviego rivers cross this small town with several bridges that span them. The most emblematic is the so-called suspension bridge, designed by the architect Gómez del Collado. The bridges, together with the rivers and the small houses make up a magnificent postcard of mandatory visit for hikers returning from the forest of Muniellos. The Acebo sanctuary, the beech forest of Hermo monastery or the council of Ibias are other nearby places to visit.