Spain is the second most visited country in the world, and in the most touristy areas, it’s common to find people who can get by in English or other languages. However, outside of major cities, Spanish has become an essential tool. Spaniards usually go out of their way to help travelers, but having a basic grasp of the language, or even a Spanish tutor, can completely transform the experience.

LINGUISTIC JOURNEY

Although the same language is spoken, there are regions in the country where the way it is spoken, its phonetics, its accent, or the coexistence with other co-official languages give Spanish its own distinct character. That is precisely why traveling through Spain can also become a linguistic journey.

In Castile and León, historically regarded as the cradle of standard or reference Castilian, Spanish is characterized by clear pronunciation and a syntax traditionally associated with the standard form of the language. It is therefore considered the reference point for learning the language.

On the other hand, Andalusia has its own distinct and highly recognizable linguistic character. Its accent, marked by phonetic features such as the aspiration of certain consonants or the loss of final sounds, is one of the richest and most distinctive in Spain.

The Canary Islands stand out for a truly unique blend, where features of peninsular Spanish and Latin American Spanish merge. In this case, they use «ustedes» more often than «vosotros» , and have their own vocabulary influenced by the islands’ Atlantic history. It is an ideal destination to discover a familiar, warm, and very musical variant of the language.

Linguistic studies often rank Asturias and Cantabria among the regions where a particularly clear form of Spanish, very close to the standard spoken language, is preserved. Furthermore, their villages, green landscapes, and traditions make practicing Spanish there an experience deeply connected to local life.

The Region of Murcia, known for its Murcian dialect, features a distinctive accent influenced by other dialects of the southeastern peninsula. Its way of speaking exhibits phonetic and lexical differences from standard Castilian Spanish, making it a particularly interesting region for those who wish to go beyond academic Spanish.

In Catalonia, the Basque Country, Galicia, and Valencia, Spanish coexists with other co-official languages, resulting in intonation, vocabulary, and phonetics influenced by each region’s native language. Understanding this linguistic coexistence helps travelers better appreciate the cultural identity of these regions.

Speaking Spanish in Spain is not just about communicating, but about connecting. Beyond the most famous destinations, the lesser-known regions offer a unique opportunity to discover that language is also part of the journey.

This article was written in collaboration with Superprof.

Yes, from the community ‘Estilo con origen,’ dedicated to showcasing the value of the great diversity of creations by our designers and artisans. That first project was my way to catch up with the world of design and decorative arts, a pending issue for our family.

Why were decorative arts a pending issue for your family?

I discovered the castle of Pedraza in the early days of my relationship, as well as the Zuloaga museums of Zumaya and Segovia. By seeing these collections, I realised that, in this family, there were artists as important as the popular painter. People who represented Spain in international exhibitions and created many of the royal state gifts. Pieces by these unknown artists are in many of the main museums and royal palaces of the world.

I had always been interested in decorative arts, poorly valued disciplines in Spain that are the historical precedent to the current design and decorative trends. You only need to see the limited space and budget of our Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas (National Museum of Decorative Arts).

Who are those Zuloagas most people don’t know about?

They are a few generations of armourers, damascene artisans, sculptors, and ceramists who created art pieces for the kings and their gifts to foreign dignitaries. Basically, there were some important gunsmiths who restored pieces of the Royal Armoury. One of them, Eusebio Zuloaga, developed a new method of inserting metals known as ‘estriado a cuchilla’. He became the first Spaniard to win two of the top prizes at the Great Exhibition of 1851, the first universal exhibition. His son Plácido would gather 36 gold medals in international exhibitions, and he was decorated by the kings of six European countries for the pieces sold to them. After their education at Sèvres, the ceramists Guillermo, Daniel and Germán Zuloaga, they reopened the Royal Factory of La Moncloa, which produced earthenware, porcelain, ceramic, and high-quality glass, with the sponsor of the Spanish royal family. Daniel is known as the most famous Spanish ceramist.

What about the famous painter?

Ignacio was Plácido’s son and Daniel’s nephew, who he was really close with. Daniel was a pioneer of the regionalist aesthetic of the Generation of '98, an interest that would be transmitted to his nephew.

I read that Zuloaga was the painter of the Generation of '98

That is a common thought, but it is not strictly true. Ignacio’s painting inspired dozens of articles by Unamuno, Maeztu, Baroja, Azorín, the Machado brothers… all those great writers who developed Spain’s traditionalist identity. They praised Zuloaga’s paintings of local people and devastated landscapes, examples of the immortal Spain that resists death and does not succumb to foreign trends. But they also wrote about those same paintings with opposite views; those that understood these paintings did not elevate country life but criticised it. Ortega y Gasset said, “Spain is the problem, and Europe is the solution.” Together with his friends of the Generation of '14 (Marañón, Pérez de Ayala, Azaña, Araquistain…), he proposed cosmopolitanism as a solution. Both groups spent many hours with the painter.

 

 

 

 

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Una publicación compartida de Fundación Zuloaga (@fundacion_zuloaga)

He assembled two groups with different views?

Those were other times [she laughs]. Biasing was limited to politicians. Intellectuals disagreed politely, although some disputes, like the one between Unamuno and Ortega, lasted for decades. Back at the time, without air conditioning and with long holidays, they gathered in Guipúzcoa for the summer, some of them on the coast and others in indoor spas. Since Zuloaga had a big house, he received them there, bringing together very different people. Pérez de Ayala even wrote that Santiago Etxea was like Villa Medici, a place where the most elevated spirits gathered. The type of place we need nowadays [she laughs].

I have heard that they managed museums.

Besides painting, Ignacio performed diverse acts of local practical development. In 1913, he brought Zaragoza’s authorities to Fuendetodos to raise awareness of the need to save Francisco de Goya’s birth house. When they ignored the matter, he personally took care of it; he built a school and contributed to the local development. He began to do something similar with the windmill of Burleta at Campo de Criptana. He also started private museums in Zumaya, the castle of Pedraza and Fuendetodos, and contributed to the Museum of San Telmo in San Sebastián. Two precedents led to these initiatives: his father created an extraordinary museum collection in the Kontadorekua tower of Eibar, and his uncle Daniel did the same in the church of San Juan de los Caballeros. They kept the funds of the Zuloaga Collection.

What is the Zuloaga Collection?

The painter’s great-grandfather, royal gunsmith Blas Zuloaga, began his collection in 1830. This collection was passed down from one generation to the next, with divisions and additions until the present day. Nowadays, Fundación Zuloaga hosts temporary exhibitions with them as part of their programme ‘Arte para todos’.

How is this story linked to Es Fascinante?

We decided to exploit our professional experience in digital marketing to contribute to local development, a fixation of my husband’s ancestors who emigrated to cities but always came back to Eibar and Zumaia. That is why we created the digital platforms España Fascinante and Fascinating Spain. Es Fascinante comes from the fashion community of this platform, which we turned into a multibrand shop of slow fashion, crafts and art made in Spain. It is about promoting local production in diverse ways.

Thank you, Margarita. Understanding such a long and complex history is not easy.

During the first months, atrocities behind the lines on both sides multiplied. In Granada, the poet Federico García Lorca was assassinated, and so was the writer Ramiro de Maeztu in Madrid. The “spiritual fathers of the Republic” fled from Madrid to France (Ortega, Marañón y Pérez de Ayala) and so did the novelist Pio Baroja from Vera de Bidasoa. He met his friend, the painter Zuloaga, in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, who avoided greeting him – a fact that Baroja would reproach him in his memoirs. The painter was afraid because he was heading to meet his family in Zumaia, a town under Republican control. From there, he wrote to his American friend, Alice Garrett, how he miraculously survived, asking her to send him money to London (where he was planning his exile). A few weeks after his arrival to Gipuzkoa, the Republican forces plundered the banks in San Sebastián, taking all the painter’s savings and a painting by El Greco.

Over the next months, Zuloaga and his son-in-law were accused of being “separatist commies” and were included in a “disaffected people” list. The painter’s Republican friends and his initial attitude toward the Francoist forces occupying Zumaia contributed to the report written by the town mayor against him. Zuloaga’s son offered to go to war with the Carlist military unit (that supported Franco), trying to ease the pressure against their family. However, the threat continued, so the Zuloaga family moved to their house in Paris in June 1937.

By that time, the military commander in Zarauz contacted the general Franco, informing him about the situation of the painter and his son-in-law. Though Franco didn’t personally know Zuloaga, he sent him the order to stop harassing them. The pressure should have continued since the mayor Cosme Iraundegui was later dismissed.

Some months before, the Duke of Alba – a great friend of the painter – told the international press that the paintings by Zuloaga and some other artists burned down during the fire that happened at the Liria Palace. Zuloaga’s anger grew when he visited the ruins of the tower where he was born, burned down during a military withdrawal, and when he learned that the paintings in his studio in Madrid had been stolen.

The painter tried to find his painting by El Greco, so he repeatedly visited the American ambassador Bowers in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. He would write about the fear that gripped Zuloaga that people might discover he was using Bowers as an intermediary to make inquiries in the Republican-held area, also explaining how he gradually shifted from neutrality to supporting Franco.

 

 

 

 

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During his stay in Paris, in summer 1937, the painter reunited with his exiled friends, deciding to help improve the Francoist rebels’ bad image in the eyes of international public opinion. The painter showed his works in Venice and London, representing nationalist Spain, as well as his son Antonio – who had been withdrawn from the front – was in charge of the magazine Occident, published in Paris by the Catalan-supporter Francesc Cambó. There, some articles in favour of Franco were published by a lot of his father’s Republican friends: José Ortega y Gasset, Gregorio Marañón, Ramón Menéndez Pidal, Manuel Machado and Manuel de Falla, among others. Also, several dozen French historians, writers and journalists who were friends of the Zuloaga family did the same.

The artist managed to recover his painting by El Greco, as well as some others stolen in Madrid. The Zuloaga paintings belonging to the House of Alba were also recovered intact, since the duke had kept them in the Bank of Spain in case the coup failed.

In the midst of the Spanish Civil War and with an imminent war in France, there were hardly any opportunities to earn a living from painting. But Ignacio Zuloaga was lucky that Franco and some of the main Francoist leaders commissioned him to paint some portraits. He also sold some paintings that were gifted by the Spanish government to the American ambassador Carlton Hayes, to Adolf Hitler and to the Republic of Chile. Likewise, he was engaged to polychrome the crucified Christ that Franco commissioned for the Valle de los Caídos.

In this way, a painter who had been an anarchist and later a socialist ended up providing the dictator Franco with important support in international propaganda. Zuloaga didn’t forget the initiative of the commander Huarte (who warned Franco), to whom he gave two portraits. In the one shown below, in black and white, the only detail in colour is the pink rose beside the books.

Sources

• Jesús María Arozamena, Ignacio Zuloaga el pintor, el hombre. Sociedad guipuzcoana de ediciones y publicaciones, 1970.
• Pio Baroja, Desde la última vuelta del camino IV, Biblioteca Nueva, 1947.
• Claude G. Bowers, My Mission to Spain, Simon and Schuster, 1954.
• Carlton Hayes, Misión de guerra en España, E.P.E.S.A. 1946.
• Huarte Jauregui Papers of Spanish Civil War, Jon Bilbao Basque Library, Universidad de Nevada.
• Javier Novo, Ignacio Zuloaga y su utilización por el franquismo, Eusko Ikaskuntza, 2006.
• Javier Novo, ‘Zuloaga en tiempos de guerra’, en El verdadero Ignacio Zuloaga, Fundación Zuloaga, 2020.
• Borja de Riquer, El último Cambó (1936-47), Grijalbo 1997.
• Ignacio Suárez-Zuloaga, ‘Antonio Zuloaga Dethomas: una vida entre Francia y España’, en Antonio Cesar Moreno Cantano, Propagandistas y diplomáticos al servicio de Franco (1936 – 1945). Ediciones Trea 2012.
• Andrés Trapiello, Las armas y las letras, Destino, 1994.

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A milestone that is not officially accepted

This very low temperature thus broke the record set just one day earlier at the Clot del Tuc de la Llança weather station in Lleida. In this case, the mercury was -34.1º. However, none of these data is recognized by the State Meteorological Agency (Aemet), so it is not an official record.

The official spokesman of this agency pointed out in an article published in La Vanguardia, a Spanish newspaper, that the Aemet "not being the owner of stations such as Clot de la Llança and Vega de Liordes, nor being responsible for their maintenance or calibration, cannot give official status to these data". However, the spokesman thanked the work of associations outside the Aemet with the following words: "It is outstanding the work done by various associations of meteorology enthusiasts in deploying and maintaining observation networks that allow a better understanding of the weather in our country".

According to official data, to find the lowest temperature reached in Spain you would have to go back to February 2, 1956. On that day the thermometer reached 32º below zero at the now defunct Pyrenees station Estany Gento, in Lleida. While the lowest temperature recorded in a homeland city was 30º below zero in Fuentes Claras, Teruel. It was on December 17, 1983.

The cold air pools of Vega de Liordes

In any case, Vega de Liordes is an area that tends to reach extremely low temperatures at specific times during winter. Thus, this enclave has exceeded -30º below zero on several occasions. This is due to a natural phenomenon that occurs in the area, known as cold air pools. Due to the morphology of the terrain, the cold air tends to accumulate in the valley as if it were a pool. If snow is added to the equation, voilà: we already have a pool of cold air.

The history of the Spanish anthem begins with the "Marcha Granadera" ("March of the Grenadiers"), a military march sung by the grenadier corps (soldiers specialised in the use of grenades). At that time, each military unit interpreted its own melody; but the "Marcha de los Granaderos" became increasingly popular. First it became very popular in Madrid, because as the grenadiers were the troops who usually paraded before monarchs, their band always sang this melody. From the reign of Alfonso XII, the king stopped spending so much time in Madrid and began to travel throughout Spain, attending many official events with a parade of troops, which is why "La Marcha Granadera" became known throughout Spain as the "Marcha Real" ("The Royal March").

The first time that the Marcha Granadera is recorded is in the Libro de Ordenanza de los toques militares de la Infantería Española ("Book of the Ordenance of Military Calls by The Spanish Infantry"), in 1761. It is referred to as the Spanish military march. The history of the Spanish anthem tells us that it was created not by order of any king but by the popularity of the citizens of that time. Charles III declared it a March of Honour in 1770, and popular custom made it the Spanish Anthem.

Marcha de Granaderos, original anthem

Thus, Spaniards would continue singing "lo, lo, lo..." until a small break in 1870 that could have given lyrics to the Marcha Real; and thus change the history of the Spanish anthem. In that year, the General Prim had called a contest to put an end to the "Marcha Granadera". The project was for the Marcha Real to be replaced by a new composition more in line with the liberal revolution that had just taken place in Spain. To choose the melody of the new Spanish anthem, a jury of three composers was selected: Miguel Hilarión Eslava (replaced due to illness by Baltasar Saldoni), Francisco Asenjo Barbieri and Pascual Juan Emilio Arrieta. However, after receiving more than 400 compositions, the contest for the national anthem was declared a failure.

According to the historian Juan María Silvela Miláns del Bosch, "none of the four composers wanted to go down in history for being the protagonists of the suppression of a Spanish anthem so deeply rooted in the popular consciousness. They did not insist much on its artistic quality, since among the compositions presented there would surely be some extraordinary ones, although they claimed that the old Marcha Real was artistically the best and most appropriate that could be invented". So the Marcha Granadera remains the anthem of Spain, made official in 1871 by the ephemeral King Amadeo I of Spain.

Another important name in the history of the Spanish anthem is that of Bartolomé Pérez Casas, the musician of Alfonso XIII, who was responsible for adapting the anthem so that it could be played by a musical band. Previously, the national anthem was played by a war band, and therefore with war instruments such as fife and drums.

'Himno de Riego' used during the Second Republic

The history of the Spanish anthem continues in the same direction until the Second Republic (1931-1939), when it is replaced by the Himno de Riego. But soon the Civil War broke out and the uprising (and future winner) began to extend the "Marcha Granadera" again with the accompaniment of lyrics by the Cádiz poet José María Pemán. Although these lyrics are associated with the Franco period, the truth is that they were ordered to be written by the President of the Council of Ministers -General Miguel Primo de Rivera - in 1928. Therefore, it was not invented during the Civil War; as is often claimed. However, that Spanish anthem underwent changes in its lyrics, such as: "raise your forehead" for "raise your arms", "the anvils and wheels" for "the yokes and arrows", adapting to the rebel side and the future political regime born after the war. But it was never considered to be the official lyrics of the national anthem.

Spanish anthem with the lyrics of José María Pemán used during the Franco regime

The most recent stages in the complex history of the Spanish anthem continue with the inscription in the Royal Decree of 10 October 1997, when the Government of the Kingdom of Spain acquired the copyright of the Marcha Real; since until then these rights belonged to the heirs of Pérez Casas (to whom a sum of money had to be paid each time the Spanish anthem was played in any event). The amount paid each year was calculated and multiplied by a number of years to arrive at the price paid. The adaptation of the national anthem is the work of the great artist Francisco Grau and replaces the previous version by Pérez Casas.

Although the history of the Spanish anthem has undergone several changes, it has always had as its background the 'marcha granadera'; the elite infantry of the Spanish Army that marched before the king in the 18th century.

Official Anthem of Spain

The history of the Spanish flag is tied to the rule of Charles III. The king raised the need to create a national sign that would stand out well in the seas. Until then, the Spanish flag was white, and on it was the Bourbon coat of arms.

The problem was that the other kingdoms of the same era, like Parma, Naples, France, Tuscany, or Sicily, in addition to Great Britain, also used a white background. This made it almost impossible to distinguish allied ships from the enemy at a distance.

King Charles III chose two designs; one for the navy and the other for the merchant navy. In both he chose red and yellow because they were two colors that were perfectly distinguishable at sea. The first one was based on two red stripes and a yellow one, as we know today the Spanish flag. The second was based on three yellow and two red stripes.

Despite the fact that it had become tremendously popular, at that time each faction of the army had its own. Isabella II decided to unify them and, from that moment, the red and yellow colours remained unchanged until our days, except for the period of the Second Republic (1931-1936).

During this stage the red of the lower strip was changed for the purple one in homage to the Comuneros of Castile who fought against Charles I. Although much has been written about this, it is not proven that purple was the color of the Comuneros, as it was the crimson.

Evolution of the history of the Spanish flag

Later, in the Second Republic (1931-1939), apart from the colour purple, the coat of arms was completely modified. The kingdoms of Aragon, Granada and Navarre were added, and the crown was replaced by a castle at the top of the coat of arms. The two columns of Hercules were also included with the motto "Plus Ultra", which means "Beyond".

But then the Civil War started and the rebellious side (and finally victorious), retook the red and yellow combination and modified the coat of arms again. The so-called Francoist flag eliminated the castle that crowned it and replaced it again with a crown. The eagle of San Juan was also included, in homage to the Catholic Monarchs.

Author: Paloma Díaz Espiñeira

Top cheapest products you can buy in Spain at a low price

Tobacco and alcohol

These might not be the healthiest products, but they are fairly cheap in Spain. A cigarette pack costs about 4-5 euros in Spain, whereas in countries like the UK, France and Canada, the price more than doubles said amount. People from Australia will be amazed at the price of tobacco in Spain, since the price of 1 package of Marlboro cigarettes in Sydney is no less than AU$40 ($27). Considering all this, many tourists leave Spain with a stack of cigarettes in their luggage.

Spain is one of the largest wine producing countries in the world, and so we can find ridiculously cheap wine there. There is actually a wide range of prices when it comes to Spanish wine, but you can easily find a bottle of wine for 2-3 euros in any local shop or supermarket, and the quality is not necessarily bad. Apart from that, beer is usually cheap in most bars, and the tapas culture makes it really worth it to order a beer and eat tapas for free. And it’s much cheaper than the British pints!

Groceries

Besides being a leading wine producing country, Spain is also estimated to produce more than half of the world’s olive oil. Hence, it makes sense that this product is sold at a low price in Spain, as Spanish people use it for everyday cooking. If you ever see a Spaniard living in the UK, they will probably find its price there way too expensive. Either way, we highly recommend buying olive oil in Spain, both for its price and its high quality.

Among other cheap products you can find in Spanish shops and supermarkets, fresh fruits and vegetables are perhaps the ones that stand out the most. If you buy seasonal fruits and veggies, the price goes even lower. Bread, coffee, fish and certain types of meat are also considered inexpensive as compared to other countries.

Transport services

According to Eurostat statistics, transport services in Spain are really cheap if we compare them to countries like Ireland, Germany or France. Its public transport services are considerably cheaper than the UK and the US too. However, it is not the cheapest country regarding transport: places like Albania, Poland and Turkey are way below Spain in that sense.

London, Dublin and New York are some of the cities with the more expensive public transport services in the world. Conversely, all forms of public transport are free in Luxembourg since 2020. In Spain, the most expensive public transport services can be found in Madrid, although there are different discounts and monthly tickets that make it more accessible to travel through the capital of Spain by bus, underground and train. If you are travelling to Spain, we suggest checking out these special tickets and discounts to save up even more money.

Clothing

Clothing is cheaper in Spain than in many other countries too. As defined by Eurostat data, the price of clothing in Spain is below most European countries. In fact, fashion in Spain is around 8% cheaper that the EU average. However, it depends on the type of clothes we are buying, and it is worth noting that Spanish footwear is not as cheap as its fashion.

3 things that are more expensive in Spain

We just had a look at the cheapest things we can find in Spain, but not everything is cheaper here. For instance, furniture is more expensive than usual, so you might want to think twice before buying furniture in Spain. According to Eurostat statistics, it stands around the EU average, with many cheaper European countries regarding furniture prices.

Electricity in Spain is remarkably expensive too. Prices vary, but it is usually above EU average, which makes it one of the most expensive European countries in terms of cost of energy.

On a similar note, consumer electronics are not cheap in Spain. Their price is slightly above EU average, although it is more or less uniform in all European countries. Nevertheless, even for people from the US, where most things cost more than they do in Spain, buying electronics in Spain is usually more expensive.

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The funeral of Genarín, the accident of a man who died when he was urinating

The Holy Week in León is a reference throughout the country, especially considering the ‘Procesión de los Borrachos’ (Procession of the Drunks). However, in this case, the death of Genaro is celebrated, a special character from the beginning of the 20th century who has his own legend.

Everything began in 1929, when Genaro, a bohemian, hard-drinking and ladies' man, was urinating in the street. He was so unlucky that a rubbish truck ran over him in the middle of it, making that terrible accident into a tradition that is now almost 100 years old. Therefore, every Maundy Thursday the people from León celebrate a procession with an amusing figure of Genarín. This Way of the Cross is not focused on suffering, like the more traditional processions, but has a more entertaining character. For example, one of the most curious aspects of the procession is that cheese is eaten and orujo is drunk along the way.

The Turbas, chaotic music which echoes all over Cuenca

Cuenca has one of the strangest processions of Holy Week, which is also an Intangible Heritage of Humanity. The processions known as ‘Las Turbas’ were born back in 1616 to the present day. These processions cause so much racket that it is difficult not to wake up when they begin. During the procession of ‘Las Turbas’ a large number of musicians are gathered on the streets of Cuenca. Drums and bugles echo through the streets, playing chaotically and incessantly from 05:30 in the morning.

When the figure of 'El Caído' appears, instead of being followed in silence, everything becomes louder and louder. Until the moment when the 'Virgen de la Soledad' appears, when all the instruments are in silence. In a certain way, this racket represents the mockery that Jesus received on the 'Camino del Calvario' (Calvary's Road).

La Trencá de perols: letting new things come in

Another of the most curious traditions of these festivities is the ‘Trencá de perols’ in Valencia. In Valencian, a ‘perol’ is the Spanish word for a clay pot, while ‘trencar’ means to break. So that's basically what this procession is all about: breaking the pot.

The tradition has its roots in an ancient custom in which Christians who celebrated Holy Week were not allowed to take a bath. In the past, the 'Trencá de perols' was celebrated with the throwing of water from balconies on Easter Saturday, but over time, the throwing of old crockery and earthenware pots was added to this tradition.

The ‘Trencá de Perols’ in Valencia takes place at the beginning of the Procession of Glory, at midnight on Holy Saturday night, and symbolises the disappearance of the old, the transition to the new.

The Volatín of Tudela, firecrackers and a nude

Another tradition that is about "breaking things" is the ‘Volatín de Tudela’. It is a tradition that began to be practised in this Navarrese town in 1732, although over time it disappeared. It was not until the beginning of the 20th century, in 2002, when the Tudela Town Council revived it and declared it as a Festivity of National Tourist Interest.

The basic idea is to hang a figure on the balcony of the ‘Casa del Reloj’, in the centre of the ‘Plaza de los Fueros’, and throw firecrackers at it until it is completely naked. The act represents the death of Judas Iscariot, one of Jesus Christ's disciples and the one who betrayed him.

Los Romances de Navaluenga, a battle of verses

The origin of this tradition is not exactly known, but it is undoubtedly one of the most special traditions in the country. In the Romances de Navaluenga, a small town in Ávila, a couple of groups of 25 people have to perfectly recite 14 classic romances written by Lope de Vega and José de Valdivieso. The two groups alternate reciting verses until one of them makes a mistake. This is how, on Maundy Thursday, both groups follow the processions while they recite to the sky.

Romper la Hora (Breaking the Hour), a village to the beat of the drums

Calanda is a small town in Teruel, but it is internationally known for having one of the strangest Holy Week traditions. Or, at least, one of the noisiest. At 12 o'clock in the morning on Good Friday,

This tradition, according to Luís Buñuel, inspires an indefinable emotion, making the town dance for two hours in unison to the beat of its percussion. It dates back to the year 1127 and it is said that it served to warn the population of the approaching Arab invasion

Los Empalaos of Cáceres, an extremely realistic tradition

Holy Week is closely identified with penitence and the suffering of Jesus, so it is not surprising that some of the weirdest traditions of the Holy Week are linked to it. This is the case of the Empalaos, a tradition in Cáceres that almost borders on religious fanaticism. Specifically, it is a tradition of National Tourist Interest which took place in Valverde de la Vera on the 18th of January 1980.

In the Empalaos, a series of men, who will act as penitents, are tied to a wooden ploughshare with multiple ropes, with their torsos uncovered and simulating a cross. The penitent, unable to use his arms, parades in old women's petticoats, a veil and a crown of thorns. All of this is wrapped in an aura of mystery, anonymity and silence, as those following the penitent are not allowed to speak.

These are 8 facts about Spain that foreign people find surprising

People eat late in Spain

Yes, we know it. People in Spain eat way too late as compared to other countries. If we look at Spain’s neighbours, in Portugal they have lunch around 1pm and dinner at 8pm, whereas in France they have lunch between midday and 2pm, and their dinner time is about half past eight.

However, in Spain it is considered normal to have lunch around 3pm and dine at 10pm, a fact that many foreigners find shocking. It is also worth noting that Spain’s time zone does not match the ones of the countries next to it, so it probably makes sense that we do not eat at the same time.

A national anthem with no lyrics

Some people get confused too when they learn that Spain’s national anthem has no official lyrics. Not all national anthems have it, though: Kosovo, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and San Marino have lyricless anthems as well.

The Spanish national anthem comes from the Marcha Granadera, which used to be played at military parades and other events attended by the Spanish royal family in the 18^th century. There have been some attempts to attach lyrics to it, but they have obviously not been successful, mainly due to a series of discrepancies. Hence, it remains the same as it was three centuries ago.

We like our food raw and cold

Clearly, Spain is not the only country where eating raw or uncooked food is common —we have all eaten Greek salads and Japanese sushi. However, some of the most popular products in Spain are eaten straight from the package. This is the case of the so-called embutidos: ham, chorizo, mortadella… They might seem like raw meat to some, but they have become an essential part of Spanish gastronomy. In fact, these are some of the products that Spanish people miss the most when they leave the country. Some even fill their luggage with serrano ham when they go abroad!

Cold soups are also typical in Spain, particularly in summer. These soups are usually made with raw veggies, olive oil and salt, and the most popular ones are the delicious gazpacho and the salmorejo.

Blinds are essential in Spain

One of the most shocking things for Spanish people when they travel abroad is the lack of blinds in the buildings. That also happens the other way around: when people come to Spain, sometimes they find it surprising to learn that every house and every hotel room has blinds and probably window shades or curtains too.

In Spain, people lower the blinds at night and raise them in the morning, mostly to avoid waking up with the morning light. Another possible explanation would be that, considering Spain is generally a sunny country, we already enjoy the sunlight throughout the day and that is why we seek the peace that comes from darkness when we sleep. It is also true that Spanish people tend to be quite protective of their privacy, and blinds do help keep our space out of sight.

The very famous siesta

There are few things more representative of Spanish culture than siesta. These afternoon naps can consist of resting in bed for hours, or just dozing for a bit on the couch. The reason behind its popularity might be the fact that meals are usually heavier in Spain than in other countries, especially when it comes to lunch time. Other countries might have incorporated this habit too, but it is still a signature Spanish custom.

Tapas culture: drinks and tapas with friends

One of the main ways people socialize in Spain is by going out for tapas. One can do so every day of the week, and it is a fantastic way of enjoying what we like the most: food and quality time with friends and family. If we found ourselves in Basque territories, we would be talking about pintxos instead.

Some believe that the habit of going out for tapas originated one of the times King Alfonso XIII travelled to Cádiz. He ordered a glass of Sherry wine and the bartender placed a slice of ham on the glass to prevent sand from ruining his drink, since it was really windy there. Apparently, he was so amused that he kept asking glasses with a slice of ham on top. Tapa means “cover” or “lid” in Spanish, so here we go.

Flamenco, a cornerstone of Spanish culture

If there is something that people from all over the world link to Spanish culture, it is flamenco music and dance. This art form has travelled across the globe, and other countries have even made it their own. For instance, Japan has been developing its own flamenco traditions since the 1920s.

Doubtlessly, flamenco music and dance is one of the elements of Spanish culture that surprise newcomers the most: not because they did not expect it or because they find it strange, but because its unique artistry completely charms them. In fact, many tourists marvel at the fact that any moment can turn into an impressive show almost anywhere in the country.   

Kissing someone on the cheeks: the peculiar Spanish greeting

Last but not least, we have a custom that sometimes makes foreign people feel shocked or even uncomfortable at first. It is also common in Greece and Italy, but not so much in other countries. Most Spanish people will greet you by giving you a kiss on each cheek, both upon meeting and to say goodbye. If you do not feel comfortable with that, you can always shake hands, though.

All in all, there are many Spanish customs that might seem weird or pointless for foreign people, but it is these little differences what makes Spanish culture so unique and special. At the end of the day, they have become part of Spain’s very identity, and there is a sense of richness to the diverse nature of each country’s culture and lifestyle.

How to avoid tourist traps in Spain

The Merriam-Webster dictionary provides the following definition of tourist traps: “a place that attracts and exploits tourists”. This could refer to overrated tourist attractions or places that are not as worth visiting as advertised, but that is quite a subjective area and we will leave it to your own judgement. Instead, we will focus on the types of places and services that are designed to attract and take advantage of tourists so you can easily detect and avoid them.

Restaurants: how to avoid getting a bitter taste of Spain

To start with, there are some signs that can help you pinpoint the restaurants that try to take advantage of tourists. If you find them on a famous square or near a popular tourist attraction, they are probably not the go-to restaurants for local people. This does not necessarily mean they sell bad-quality food, but it is likely they will be overprized and targeted towards tourists. Additionally, beware of the restaurants whose menus come in many languages, and pay attention to the menu they give you, since it might be different to the ones Spanish people get. When it comes to price, you definitely want them to treat you like a local.

It is common in Spain to come across waiters inviting you to eat at their restaurants. They are extremely friendly and will try to convince you into tasting their delicious food, but ask yourself this: would a top-notch restaurant need to have people in the street convincing potential customers to come inside? Probably not. Moreover, there are restaurants that display huge, colourful pictures of their dishes outside. It does not always mean their food is of poor quality, but sometimes the reality is quite disappointing, and those dishes look nothing like the pictures.

Enjoying the rich gastronomy of the country is quite important when we visit Spain, and it plays a key role in the whole Spanish experience. Hence, choosing the right restaurants will be decisive regarding the aftertaste of our visit. We recommend talking to the locals and asking what people really eat there, and where you can taste the best version of it. Apart from that, you can do your own research online and check the ratings of the restaurants on different portals. As a last suggestion, finding out where students eat is a great way of discovering cheap places with nice local food that will satisfy both your budget and your belly.

“Authentic” scams or how to get an actual Spanish experience

It is difficult to know if something is authentic or not, but we can tell you a couple of red flags to avoid getting a fake Spanish experience. To start with, bear this in mind: Flamenco shows get sold as typical Spanish performances, but they are not so common outside Andalusia. Many tourists fall into the trap of allegedly Spanish shows which would make the Andalusian artists cry. Hence, if you are in Madrid and they try to sell you a traditional dinner and Flamenco experience, you should know there is something suspicious about it. You can definitely enjoy watching performances of Flamenco dancers and musicians in the streets of Seville, but attending a show like that in Barcelona would be like looking for traditional Scottish bagpipers in London. You can do it, and you might even enjoy it, but most Spanish people would never.

Another questionable thing they might try to sell you as authentic is the food. There are many overprized, tourist-oriented restaurants that will try to put some frozen croquettes on your plate, and even Spanish people get scammed like that once in a while. However, if you follow the suggestions we provided in the previous section, chances are you will be able to avoid those places. Apart from that, you should know that sangria is not a drink Spanish people usually order at a bar or a restaurant. If you want to drink an actual Spanish cold beverage, we suggest ordering a tinto de verano.

Transport and accomodation: do we trust the Internet?

One of the most common tourist traps in Spain, which probably happens in most countries, is taxis overcharging foreign people. It happens every day, and it is not easy to avoid unless you decide to confront the driver. Even in that case, you might lose the argument, since they can claim to know the city and its streets way better than you do.

To prevent that from happening, we suggest checking the details of the ride beforehand. Google Maps is a useful tool for doing so. This way, you will notice it if they try to take a longer route and make the ride last longer. Apart from that, it is always good to ask to the driver how much will it cost you approximately to get to your destination point before you make any deal with them. Of course, in most Spanish cities there are also alternatives to taxis, like Uber or Bolt, you can use by downloading their apps. The good thing is, most of them tell you how much they will charge you before you book the ride.

Lastly, we should also be reasonably careful when it comes to finding accommodation. For instance, there are scams out there claiming to rent apartments that do not exist. It does not happen very often, but some visitors have travelled to Spain only to find out that the room they have paid for is just not there. To prevent that from happening, we suggest checking out the ratings and reviews of the place you want to stay in before booking anything. Ideally, it should have several comments and a good rating, as well as being published on a trustworthy page.

Despite everything we have just discussed, Spain is a fairly safe country, and most travellers feel this way when they visit. All popular destinations in the world deal with tourist traps, and it is important to avoid them so we can be sure they will not take advantage of us. Nevertheless, it should not be a source of concern, at least not in Spain. We can definitely enjoy visiting the country and exploring all its fascinating corners without worries.

Olive trees and streams surround the Virgen del Ara hermitage in Fuente del Arco. For a chapel in the middle of nowhere, it's surprisingly big; however, you'd never guess there is such a gem behind its white walls!

Once we enter the Sistine Chapel of Extremadura, the first thing we see is a wide nave with a concave roof decorated with Old Testament scenes. There are 26 paintings that represent The Book of Genesis. Even though they're numbered, they're not in chronological order; that's why each one is accompanied by a small description.

Colours invade each and every corner of the Sistine Chapel of Extremadura. The authors of the paintings are unknown: they date back to the 17th century, but other parts of the shrine, as the plinth with fresco painting, date from the 14th century. On the exterior there are still remains of Roman columns, specifically at the Mudejar style horsheoe-arched entrance.

There's a legend linked to the creation of this spectacular shrine in the middle of the countryside. According to this story, this was the place where the Virgin Mary showed herself to a Moorish princess called Erminda, who asked the Virgin to cure his blind father. She assured her that he'd have his vision back if they converted to Christianity. Once he was able to see again, they started to build the shrine to celebrate the miracle.

Visiting the Sistine Chapel of Extremadura

The Nuestra Señora del Ara hermitage is open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 3 pm. Guided tours are also offered at 11 am, 12:30 pm and 2:15 pm. Having a guide by your side will make the experience richer, as he/she will have a torch with him/her to show you the paintings and to give you a detailed explanation of each of them.

The Sistine Chapel of Extremadura shouldn't be jealous of the Roman one in the slightest, as it is a real gem! Would you visit it?

Text: Paloma Díaz Espiñeira

Interesting and little-known facts about the Spanish Royal Family

The secret elopement of the Catholic Monarchs

Few people realise that Isabel and Fernando’s wedding was a clandestine affair condemned by the Pope for reasons of consanguinity between the bride and groom, who were distant cousins.

For this reason, the marriage ceremony took place at the private Vivero palace, and Fernando disguised himself in order to hide his identity. Upon discovering the ruse, the Pope excommunicated both of them. They spent their honeymoon at the cursed Fuensaldaña Castle and only later did the Vatican eventually rehabilitate them.

Juana of Castile, ‘mad’ with jealousy

Juana I of Castilla continues to be known as Juana la Loca (Mad Juana), a controversial and rather tragic figure. The jealousy she felt towards other women that surrounded her husband, Felipe el Hermoso (Philip the Handsome), exacerbated her obsessive disorder, which would reach absurd extremes.

One such anecdote claims that she gave birth to her son Carlos in the water closet during a festive ceremony because she did not want to leave her husband for too long in fear of not keeping an eye on him.  Her obsession even endured after Felipe’s death when she maintained a tireless vigil over her late husband’s grave.

The cursed Carlos II

Carlos II, the last of the Habsburg dynasty to hold the Spanish throne, was a truly singular figure. Barely managing to reach adulthood due to his precarious health, his mission to conceive an heir was too much for him.

The supposed reason for his inability to conceive an heir was believed to be demonic possession, witchcraft and ultimately, from a curse that afflicted the king. Every remedy under the sun was used against the so-called curse, from magic spells and palace exorcisms to fasting while drinking blessed oil. Nothing, however, stopped The Bewitched from dying in 1700 without a successor.

Felipe V, the frog king

The first king of the Bourbon dynasty was not alien to mental health problems either. In particular, it seems the vapours (as they were called at that time) that afflicted him were manifested in manic-depressive episodes and a melancholy that often turned grotesque.

The hallucinations the king suffered from at times made him believe, among other things, that he was a frog, to such an extent that he could be found wandering the grounds of the palace at times croaking and jumping about. There was also the time in 1717 when he believed the sun itself was stalking him and he saw himself at death’s door.

The shortest reign in Spanish history

Felipe V’s son, Luis I, was rightly dubbed the Brief King. His reign lasted only 229 days in 1724. Married at the age of 15, he had to endure the personality disorders of his even younger wife, Louise Élisabeth d’Orléans.

Both of them were stricken with smallpox and Luis died at the tender age of 17. His father, who had already abdicated and was in no condition to rule, was forced to wear the crown once again.

The birth of the lottery

Carlos III has gone down in history as the erudite king par excellence. Nevertheless, among his contributions, there is one that is lesser known. During his reign in 1763, he instituted the so-called Renta de la Lotería, following the example of other kingdoms that had already instituted such lotteries.

Having reigned over the Kingdom of Naples and the Kingdom of Sicily, Carlos III knew of the lottery and dispatched the director of the Neapolitan lottery to establish one in Spain. A short time later in 1771, the children from San Ildefonso School were enlisted to announce the winning numbers, a tradition still maintained to the present day.

The lost luggage of Joseph Bonaparte

José I, or Joseph I Bonaparte, installed on the Spanish throne by his brother Napoleon, received the snide soubriquet of Pepe Botella (Pepe Bottle) for having favoured the sale of alcohol. However, he was also at the centre of an extravagant episode in 1813 when he was forced to flee Spain.

In the middle of the Spanish War of Independence, Bonaparte abandoned Madrid with such a colossal baggage train that not all of it managed to return to France. In Álava, a great number of the king’s belongings had to be abandoned, including a silver chamber pot, love letters and most notably, 200 paintings stolen from Spanish collections.

The king who almost won a Nobel Peace Prize

Another little known fact is the nomination of a Spanish monarch for the Nobel Peace Prize. And not once, but twice.

Alfonso XIII founded the European War Office in 1915 during the First World War with the aim of locating imprisoned or missing civilians and soldiers, all of which was financed by the Spanish crown. Many countries (except Spain) acknowledged his work, which led to his nomination for the Nobel Peace Prize in 1917 and again in 1933, when he had already been forced to leave Spain.

The king’s titles: from the Golden Fleece to the Ocean Sea

The rich history of the Spanish Royal Family has bestowed upon the current king a long and curious list of noble titles. In fact, Felipe VI continues to hold the titles of King of Castilla, León, Aragón, Toledo and many others in addition to a slew of territories that include King of the Indies and King of the Mainland and the Ocean Sea.

The current king is also Archduke of Austria, Duke of Burgundy, Count of Flanders and Barcelona, Lord of Biscay and Molina and many other historic titles too numerous to list. Likewise, the king holds the titles of Grand Master of the Order of the Golden Fleece and Grand Master of the Royal and Distinguished Order of Carlos III among many others. The Spanish monarch could even boast, if so inclined, the imperial title of Byzantium, given that it was sold to the Catholic Monarchs in 1502.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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Origins of the 'capirote'

The origin of the capirotes or capuchón is in the Holy Inquisition. People who were sentenced by the Court of the Inquisition were punished with the imposition of this cardboard cone. In addition, on the capirote they were put a cloth garment that covered their chest and back. This garment was called sambenito. The expression "to hang the sambenito on someone" comes from here, as it refers to a sentence. Since the end of the 15th century, many paintings have depicted these acts of the Inquisition in their works.

Francisco de Goya painted in his pictures the shame of the condemned who carried the capirote and sambenito. They also used to place this same hood over the defendants with paintings showing the crime they had committed or the punishment that had been imposed on them.

Although its origin is disturbing, the Sevillian brotherhoods rescued it during the 17th century because of its penitential connotation. In this way, its use spread to the rest of Spanish cities. This is how it has come down to us today. Nowadays, the capirote does not have to be made of cardboard. It can be somewhat uncomfortable for the Nazareno, since it is nailed to the forehead and its weight is greater. Since 2000, many penitents have been wearing more comfortable and lighter mesh capirotes.

Interesting facts about the 'capirote'

The capirote, capuz or capuchón has different names according to the areas of Spain. For example, in Torredonjimeno it is known ascaperuz and in Linares it is called cucurucho. Depending on the city the capirote is also worn differently. In Murcia it is placed without being covered with the mask. In many other places in Spain, its fabric is spread over the mask and even the cape on the back.

Also the height of its position varies. It changes depending on the brotherhood, as is the case throughout Andalusia. For example, in Zaragoza, the brotherhood of San Juan Evangelista and the brotherhood of Las Siete Palabras are the ones that carry the capirote higher. There are others that do not to use it, but they do use the cloth: mask, hood or Tercerol, as they call it in Aragon. You can wear the hood with your face uncovered or hidden. There are bean capirotes, that is to say, without a pointed end and lower.

Their shape has a tapered end for a reason. It is pointed in order to bring the penitent closer to heaven and is covered with cloth so that the identity is hidden. However, before it ended up pointed, in the 17th century some brotherhoods in Seville used the capirote with a blunt shape, such as the Brotherhood of San Juan de Letrán, which is now dissolved.

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Saint Nicolas of Bari, as he was known

The story goes that Nicholas of Bari, who later became St. Nicholas, was born in the 4th century in Patara, a city in the district of Lycia, in what is now Turkey, into a wealthy family. Nicholas stood out for his kindness and generosity to the poor, always concerned for the others. While still very young, the boy lost his parents, victims of a plague, and became the heir to a big fortune. At the age of 19, Nicholas decided to give all his money to the needy and went to Mira with his uncle to dedicate himself to the priesthood.

There he was named bishop and became patron saint of Turkey, Greece and Russia. He was also named Patron Saint of sailors because, according to a story, when some of them were in the middle of a terrible storm at sea and saw themselves lost, they began to pray and ask God for the saint's help, and the waters calmed down. St. Nicholas died on December 6, 345. Since that date is very close to Christmas, it was decided that this saint was the perfect figure to give gifts and treats to children on Christmas Day. Since the 6th century, temples began to be built in his honour and in 1087 his remains were taken to Bari, Italy.

Santa Claus comes from Alicante, according to a theory born in the Netherlands

Another theory, rather strange, has to do with a Spanish city: Alicante. Some Dutch started to say that Saint Nicholas came from this Mediterranean city. Tradition has it that among the places that St. Nicholas visited to preach the word of God is the beautiful Alicante. So much so that, in fact, St. Nicholas is also the patron saint of Alicante. It is celebrated every year, by the way, on December 6, although in the Spanish geography it has been overshadowed by the Constitution Day.

It seems that St. Nicholas did have a relationship with Alicante and this was taken note of in the Netherlands, where they began to believe that Santa Claus’ gifts did not pass through the maritime customs of the North Pole but through Spanish ones. Dutch legend has it that every night of December 5, the eve of St. Nicholas Day, this good man left the port of Alicante with a ship full of tangerines and oranges from the Alicante orchard, as well as cookies and toys for children. Today it is one of the most popular festivals in the Netherlands. It is known as Sinterklaas, the feast of St. Nicholas. So... according to this theory, Santa Claus comes from Alicante, or this is what the Dutch believe, at least.

Enthusiasm or just a marketing campaign?

The figure of Santa Claus, with the sleigh, reindeer and gift bags is actualy an American invention. They were also responsible for extending that image that we have today of Santa Claus: dressed in red, with a black belt and boots. Almost becoming a marketing campaign, Santa Claus has survived and become stronger every year, making companies to use its figure to reach a greater audience.

In Spain, however, there has been always a fight whether to adopt this tradition. Many families have resisted to take his figure and tradition, but it has increasingly grown in Spain, and year after year, more and more homes celebrate the Christmas Day with Santa Claus coming and leaving gifts to the Spanish children. However, it has not shadowed the real reason for enthusiasm among the Spanish children: the Three Kings, or the Three Wise Men, a tradition that has been celebrated in Spain for years.

The Three Kings shadow Santa Claus every Spanish Christmas

It is well known that the figures of the Three Kings are very extended in Spain and some other countries like Venezuela or Mexico. But... what is the real origin of this legend, and why the Three Kings leave presents in Spanish houses every night of the 5th January? On January 6, the Three Kings Day is celebrated in several countries of the world to commemorate the adoration of the Child Jesus by the Three Wise Men, who came from the East to honour and bring gifts to the newborn. They are a symbol that recognizes Jesus Christ as King and the only savior of humanity.

This day constitutes the end of the Christmas period in many countries of the world, especially in Spanish-speaking countries. Melchior, Gaspar and Balthasar were the Three Kings who came from distant lands to deliver rich gifts such as gold, frankincense and myrrh, to honor the king of kings: Jesus of Nazareth. According to ancient representations of the Kings, they were shown in Persian costumes, holding the offerings with their hands, so they have been represented like this for centuries since then. From the 9th century onwards they were depicted as Kings, with crowns adorning their heads.

Since the 15th century they represent the whole of humanity. According to the scriptures of the Bible it is known that the Three Kings were in Jerusalem to see Herod and ask him about the "King of the Jews" who had just been born, guided by a star in the sky. Herod asked his priests about this fact, who confirmed that, according to the prophecy, the Messiah would be born in Bethlehem. He then asked the Kings that once they found the Child he would come to worship him. Faced with a revelation in a dream about King Herod's intentions, the Kings took another way back after going to see the newborn and worship him, avoiding passing through Jerusalem again. They arrived and offered him gold, frankincense and myrrh.

A tradition that is still very alive

From the 19th century onwards, the tradition of giving gifts to children on the night of Epiphany began in Spain. In 1866 the first Three Kings' parade was held in Alcoy (Alicante), whose tradition spread to the rest of the country, being adopted this tradition in other countries of Hispanic culture.

Since then, parades have been taking place all over Spain, some bigger and more spectacular, and some smaller and less known, but all of them full of children's enthusiasm. Whether it is under the tree, in the stairs outside the house, or just standing beautifully on the table, presents shine in Spanish houses when the sun rises the 6th January. The rest of the day, Spanish children play with their new toys, go to their families' houses to collect gifts from other members of the family, and spread their happiness through Spain. Despite Santa Claus' figure trying to enter Spanish homes during years, the Three Kings' tradition have not and will not disappear, at least for now.

These arrows each measure almost a meter in length, but are camouflaged by the gray of the surface. Only those who happen to glance at this corner of Gran Vía or those who consciously look for them, knowing of their existence, can appreciate them. Both their position and their orientation have an explanation and a story that unfolds in that same street. But the answer to the question raised by the floor is, in fact, in the sky of Madrid.

The explanation begins in mythology

To unravel this mystery, the eyes must rest, first of all, on the building that occupies number 31 Gran Vía, on the opposite sidewalk. On top of it, with an impressive size and a golden color that shines when the sun allows it, a sculpture of Diana the Huntress is discovered. The goddess of the hunt, protector of nature and the moon, is depicted in action, pointing a bow in a most elegant pose. Diana aims and shoots, but two of her arrows miss the target and end up on the ground.

To locate the desired target we have to cross the sidewalk again, to the building behind the arrows, in Gran Vía 32. Looking up, one notices another sculpture, which corresponds to a different mythological figure. The goddess is pointing towards it.

The latter is not a novelty on the roofs of the great Madrid street, but the sculpture of Diana the Huntress is recent. The person responsible for it was Natividad Jiménez, who also became the first woman to design a sculpture for the capital's central artery. She also devised a story to link the two sculptures.

The language of buildings

The story that justifies these details has to do with mythology, from which he extracts a basis to build, with licenses, the whole story. Natividad designed her Diana thinking about the story that links the goddess with Endimión, a mortal shepherd with whom she fell in love. The goddess came down every night from the moon to meet him, until Zeus, her father, discovered the love story. The almighty father of the gods could not allow it, so he sent another mythological creature to end the romance: a phoenix. It kidnapped Endymion to take him away from Diana, but she discovered what was happening and attacked with her bow. This is the exact moment Nativity wanted to represent: the goddess defending what she loved.

Actually, the sculpture in front of the goddess in Gran Vía has never represented Endimión, hence the licenses taken to build this story between buildings. It is, rather, Ganymede, lover of Zeus, and is a replica of an original work by Saint-Marceaux that years ago crowned the Metropolis building.

The beauty of it is that it actually takes on a complete meaning without needing to obey the truth. The passerby, now already aware of these details, will look up to the sky and observe Diana fighting for the man she loves, who is being kidnapped by a creature she cannot control. Then he will step on the arrows that were subsequently carved into the ground, thus concluding this story of love between buildings, in the middle of Madrid's Gran Vía. This is the story of the arrows of Gran Vía 32.

The Spanish origin of the cowboy horses: a fruitful switch

10,000 years ago, prehistoric horses became extinct on the American continent. Thus, it was not until the year 1493 when their history began again in the then newly discovered continent. Christopher Columbus was about to embark on his second voyage to America with the intention of conquering it. The Catholic Monarchs, before the expedition departed, signed a document ordering the shipment of at least 12 horses and mares along with the ships.

They were supposed to be splendid Hispano-Arabian specimens, but the Sevillian traders exchanged the superb stallions for simple pencos, that is, skinny and ungainly horses, at the last moment. However, the historian Borja Cardelús affirms that the exchange really took place for specimens from the Marismas del Guadalquivir, known as mesteño or retuerta horses. This species, accustomed to the hard lands of the marshes, is resistant to long journeys, robust for work and easy to ride. Thus, when the boats reached land, the horse returned to the Americas. The seed that gave rise to the cowboys was already planted.

Meanwhile, in the marshes of Doñana, cattle breeding had been common since ancient times, with unique species such as the so-called marismeñas or mostrencas cows, which were also exported to the so-called new world. Likewise, according to anthropologists Juan Carlos González and Michael D. Murphy, for years, the marshes were the "destination of working cattle from Seville and transhumant herds from the center and north of the Peninsula". In the region, rodeos were practiced, spurs were used, wide-brimmed hats were worn... The gauchos of the Pampas, the llaneros of Venezuela and Colombia and the American cowboys only inherited this way of life, but they did not conceive it.

The origin of the cowboys

In what was then called New Spain, which today is equivalent to the southwestern United States, the climate was dry and grass was scarce. Ranchers had to travel great distances to find enclaves in which to feed their animals. To make the journey shorter and less tiring, the ranchers began to use horses, as the Spaniards had been doing, which had been spreading throughout the continent. Thus the figure of the cowboy was born in this part of the planet, imitating the cowboys of the Marismas and their equestrian handling. On the other hand, the horses that escaped or were abandoned on the continent gave rise to the famous mustangs, wild and untamed stallions. As time went by, the successive migratory waves of European settlers also introduced new species of horses.

The figure of the cowboy became more famous in the second half of the 19th century. The demand for meat had increased and the development of the railroad made it possible to transport cattle on trains. Thus, the cattle routes that went from Texas and Chihuahua to the north of the United States emerged. The originally Spanish tradition spread like wildfire throughout the continent and the North American country, spurred on by the Hollywood industry, made the image of the cowboy its own. The legend of the Wild West was born.

Horses in Native American tribes

In the United States, the Great Plains Indians lived by hunting and farming. Vast herds of bison roamed those lands. In order to hunt them, these people moved twice a year, at the beginning of summer and after autumn. The adoption of the horse for these tasks made life easier for the inhabitants.

Initially, according to Spanish law, horseback riding was forbidden to Native Americans. However, the story goes that the natives rebelled against the rule, while in some cases it was the invaders who decided to break their own rule because they had no one to take care of their animals. In this way, the natives also became skilled horsemen and the new discovery spread through the different tribes.

The Saca de las Mares in the marshes: a modern rodeo

The Saca de las Yeguas is a livestock event whose origin dates back to before the year 1504, when it was formalized. Since then the tradition has been celebrated every June 26, being one of the most important historical-cultural events of Doñana. The purpose of the event is to move the so-called marismeñas mares, which live in freedom, from the marshes to the town of Almonte. There, an agricultural and livestock fair takes place in which this animal is sold and bought.

The event consists of several phases. First, the yegüerizos gather in the houses of the village of El Rocío in a festive atmosphere. There, preparations for the saca begin. Then, on the night of June 25, the yegüerizos and riders ride their horses into the Doñana Park to spend the night in the marshes. When dawn breaks, the modern cowboys surround the wild horses that populate these lands and, in droves, head for El Rocío. There, a priest blesses beasts and riders, who continue their journey until they reach Almonte, where the final phase takes place: the horses are grouped in corrals, where the fair begins. Days later, the mares are taken back to the marshes, where they will wait in freedom until June of the following year.

From Madrid to the sky: between history and legend

The first theory regarding the origin of this Spanish expression goes back to a time period where Madrid was not the city we know today. In fact, it was quite different; it was not even the capital of Spain yet. Its sewerage system left a lot to be desired, so you can imagine how the streets smelt before the 18th century—the same streets now tourists fall in love with every day. Some people ascertain it was then when the original expression originated: “de Madrid, el cielo” (“from Madrid, the sky”). This version is actually quite harsh. It means that the only enjoyable thing about Madrid is something that lies far away from the city: the sky. 

Were that the case, this reproach could have evolved into a compliment during the reign of Carlos III of Spain (1716-1788), when the city experienced a massive growth. In fact, the monarch introduced a series of diverse amendments, and he would come to be known as “the best of Madrid’s mayors”. Little by little, the city’s general state improved and it eventually became the capital of Spain. Now people could finally say: “from Madrid to the sky”. 

However, the first recorded document of this expression can be found in the writings of Luis Quiñones de Benavente (1581-1651), a renowned playwright from the Spanish Golden Age. In his play Baile del Invierno y del Verano, we can read the following verses:

For both Summer and Winter

In Madrid are only fair,

From the cradle to Madrid

And from Madrid to the sky.

On another note, some people prefer to assign a magical meaning to “de Madrid al cielo” by linking it to one of the most popular legends in Madrid: the one that tells how the souls of the deceased citizens of Madrid gather every night at the hill of Garabitas in Casa de Campo to rise together to the sky. So, once again: from Madrid to the sky. 

There is no place like Madrid

That is precisely the meaning of this expression: there is no place like Madrid. It does not necessarily downplay the rest of the cities and towns in Spain. However, the capital city is always full of possibilities. When it comes to art, history, and most of all, culture, Madrid is second to none. There are endless experiences we can enjoy when we visit Madrid, from museums to all kinds of cultural activities. “De Madrid al cielo”. From Madrid to the sky.

Tipping in Spain: is it mandatory?

In many countries, tipping is mandatory and it is even fixed in the bill. However, that is not the case in Spain. Spanish people see tipping as a bonus reward for exceptional services. The wage of waiters and other staff does not depend on bills, so usually they just consider it an extra income. It is important to know that, as a general rule, they do not rely on tips from customers to pay rent, and that is why they do not consider it rude to tip a small amount of money or not tip at all.

Hence, people in Spain usually tip at restaurants when the waiting staff is particularly kind or efficient. For them, it is a personal reward rather than a social norm. It is a casual, friendly gesture, something like “Hey, you were nice to me today so you can keep the change”. Sometimes, restaurants just have a jar or a tip box for anyone who wants to slip in a couple of coins to show gratitude for the service. Of course, there are also people who always tip out of courtesy, but it is not the majority.

When and how much do we tip in Spain?

The services where one can be expected to tip in Spain are quite similar to other countries. The most common scenarios here are bars and restaurants, followed by hotels and other food and accommodation services. Besides that, one might also tip taxi drivers or tourist guides, among other things.

We know that in the United States, the average tip in a restaurant is usually 15% to 20% of the total cost of the meal. We discussed that tipping is not mandatory in Spain, but if we do tip, the percentage rate is usually 10% or so. However, it is always optional and it varies depending on the type of service and how much we are spending.

When people from Spain or other European countries travel to the US, Americans find it extremely rude that they tip low or do not tip if they are not compelled to. On the other hand, many tourists overtip in Spain because they are not familiar with the Spanish etiquette regarding tips, and some of them behave poorly with waiters because they think that makes them superior. It is important to understand the reason behind all these different perspectives and to be aware of the situation of the country we are travelling to, including the working conditions of the staff and all that entails, before acting one way or another. At the end of the day, travelling always involves adapting, learning and understanding other worldviews, and it is essential to be respectful towards different people and cultures.

The festivals of the city of Madrid

San Isidro, the patron saint of Madrid

Every 15 May, the inhabitants of Madrid gather at the park of San Isidro to celebrate the festival of the city’s patron saint. San Isidro, also known as Isidore the Laborer in English, is the patron saint of farmers. If we attend the festival, we will find massive concerts, traditional gastronomy and costumes, and chotis music and dance to celebrate one of the most important festivals of the Community of Madrid. 

Dos de Mayo, a celebration of independence

2nd May 1808. People in Madrid rise against the French soldiers, who have invaded the streets of this city and many more across Spain. Their goal is to sit José Bonaparte, the brother of Napoleon, on the Spanish throne. The uprising of the 2nd May 1808 was the wake-up call the country needed, and the start of both the Spanish War of Independence and the Peninsular War. Two centuries later, the neighbourhood of Malasaña commemorates this historical event, and different activities take place in the city council, bars and shops. 

The “verbena trilogy”

In Spain, verbena is not only a plant: it is also a type of local festival, usually held at night-time. And Madrid knows its way around verbenas. Despite many locals leaving the city for the summer, in August Madrid shines in a unique way. The streets are not as crowded as usual, and those staying for the summer merrily celebrate the “verbena trilogy”. 

Around the 7th August, the neighbourhoods of Rastro and Embajadores held the festival of San Cayetano. Three days later, on the 10th August, one of the most authentic festivals of Madrid takes place in the neighbourhood of Lavapiés: the verbena of San Lorenzo. Lastly, on the 15th August, the neighbourhood of La Latina welcomes the festival of La Paloma, full of different activities for all tastes. 

Other great local festivals in the Community of Madrid

Festival of San Sebastián de los Reyes

The festival of San Sebastián de los Reyes takes place from the 28th August to the 3rd September, honouring the patron saint of the city in different ways: cultural performances, religious events, pasacalle parades, and fireworks staining the sky above San Sebastián de los Reyes with beautiful colours. Its running of the bulls is considered one of the most important ones nationally, only after the traditional running of the bulls of San Fermín in Pamplona. 

Festival of San Lorenzo de El Escorial

People in Madrid save the second weekend of September for the Romería de la Virgen de Gracia, the patroness saint of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. This festivity has a religious origin, but it has perfectly blended into current society and culture. It is held in the forest of La Herrería of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, and the customs and traditions of the mountain area of Madrid come to the fore for a whole weekend. 

Festival of Majadahonda

During the third week of September, Majadahonda gets festive with the festival in honour of the Santísimo Cristo de los Remedios. This celebration is ideal for all tastes and ages, with different performances that are held throughout the day, as well as verbenas for the youth that are looking for a lively night. 

Although each carnival is different depending on the country and even the locality, they all have common characteristics: costumes, parades, dances and lots of partying. Throughout history, the carnival has also been a space for satire of power, which has made kings, clergymen and leaders uncomfortable. That is why this festival has been banned on more than one occasion or some of its costumes or activities have been censored under penalties of imprisonment or physical punishment.

One hundred public floggings for wearing a costume

Alberto Ramos Santana notes in his book El Carnaval secuestrado ("the kidnapped carnival") 'the fate of the municipal restrictions ran even with the religious ones'. Thus, according to this same work, in 1767 Cádiz citizens were not allowed to enter the dances dressed as ecclesiastics and men could not dress as women or women as men. 'If they were found like that they would be taken to jail,' the author notes. Even so, disregarding such rules seems to have been the custom in both the 17th and 18th centuries.

According to an Aragonese magazine, as early as 1521 there existed in Zaragoza a rule regulating the use of costumes and masks. Two years later, Charles I enacted a law covering all its territories, according to which masks and costumes were censored under a penalty that varied according to the social scale of the 'criminal'. 'If he was of humble extraction, a hundred public floggings were enough, if he was a nobleman, banishment was imposed for a period of six months', the newspaper points out.

Likewise, between the 19th and 20th centuries, carnivals were also tried to be controlled in the peninsula by means of clean-up campaigns or with a greater control of the festivities. However, these 'campaigns of refinement' only served to add fuel to the popular revelry, since they became the targets of the mockery of the citizens, at least according to the aforementioned Alberto Ramos in his work.

The prohibition of Carnival during Franco's regime

In 1937, with Spain in the middle of the civil war, the General Government of the rebel Army, and with carnivals just around the corner, issued a Circular Order prohibiting the celebration of carnivals. Thus, it was alleged that the country was in 'moments that advise a withdrawal in the externalization of internal joys, which are not compatible with the life of sacrifices that we must lead'. It seemed that once the conflict was over, carnivals would be celebrated normally again.

However, with the end of the war and the advent of a new carnival, the Official State Bulletin published a new order signed by Serrano Súñer, brother-in-law of the dictator Francisco Franco. Published on January 13, 1940, the writing indicated the following: 'Suspended in previous years the so called Carnival celebrations, and not existing reasons that advise to rectify this decision, this Ministry has resolved to maintain it and to remember to all the dependent authorities of him, the absolute prohibition of the celebration of such celebrations'. In addition, according to an article about the Carnival of Cádiz, by Ignacio Sacaluga, 'the civil governor of the province, Manuel Mora Figueroa, sent a telegram to the municipalities reminding them of the obligation to keep the Carnival prohibited'.

The 'winter festivities'

The veto was maintained until the arrival of the Transition, although it is true that the regime, with time, became more tolerant with respect to these festivities. Thus, private celebrations were allowed, where the Francoist authorities could better control what happened, or some permits were granted. It should also be noted that, despite the prohibition, carnivals never stopped existing. In 1978, before the legal return of these festivities, the Spanish newspaper El País pointed out that 'in spite of the government prohibition, they continued celebrating their adulterated carnival, where the mask was called a disguise and the Carnival was called winter festivities'.