Characteristic natural surroundings

Flysch of Zumaia

Zumaia is one of the most fascinating spots in all of the Basque Country and its flysch deposits are a truly awe-inspiring natural wonder. Fine stone chippings emerge upright from the sea, and like a book, allow scientists to read more than 50 million years of natural history. 

The panoramic scene of cliffs, beaches and rolling green terrain form an indelible image, one which can be appreciated by boat or by walking up to another local treasure, the chapel of San Telmo, from where unparalleled views can be seen.

Urkulu Reservoir

Approaching this reservoir through a series of gentle hills, groves and sizable peaks situates one within the heart of Gipuzkoa’s landscape,. The best way to enjoy this serene spot is by following, either on foot or by bicycle, the six and a half kilometre-long green trail surrounding the reservoir.

The reservoir lies next to one of Gipuzkoa’s most breathtaking and picturesque villages, Aretxabaleta, noteworthy for its religious architecture and other regal buildings such as the Otalora Palace. The entire surrounding area is especially tempting for activity-based tourism enthusiasts. The range of pursuits includes kayaking on the reservoir and trekking in Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park, one of the finest in the region.

Leitzaran Valley

There are few places like Leitzaran (Leizarán) to acquaint oneself with the Basque Country’s history. Today, it is the only depopulated valley in the province, which grants the unique opportunity to enjoy its forests or go canoeing on its clear waters.

Nevertheless, the area has been witness to human activity over the course of centuries, from the abundance of megalithic monuments to the mines, mills and foundries of more recent times. Additionally, a now defunct train line has left behind an extraordinary green trail traversing this singular setting.

Cultural heritage

The hermitage of Santa María de la Antigua

The town of Zumárraga in the region of Alto Urola is home to the hermitage of Santa María de la Antigua, also known as the Antio Hermitage, one of the pearls of religious architecture in the Basque Country.

The distinctive wooden frame of its ceiling conveys a sense of grassroots construction, linked to 16th-century hamlets of this region. The ornamentation of the wood is also akin to local popular traditions, distinguishing the Antio as the 'cathedral among Basque hermitages’.

Port of Getaria

The town of Getaria and its port bestow the opportunity to discover the authentic essence of nautical Gipuzkoa. The port of Getaria continues to be an important hub for inshore fishing and with the port’s recent renovation, still an exceptional place to observe the hustle and bustle of the local maritime life.

The port sits between the island of San Antón and the historic old town, a maze of medieval streets where parts of the original town wall are still conserved. Within its confines stand elegant towers and the lovely Gothic church of San Salvador. Below the church runs a curious passageway, known as the Katrapona, which leads from the old quarter to the steps of the harbour. Getaria, birthplace of the explorer Juan Sebastián Elcano, offers a variety of vantage points from which to admire the mystical Cantabrian Sea and its port, still the traditional and gastronomical heart of the town.

Loyola Sanctuary

The birthplace of Saint Ignacio de Loyola has evolved into one of the spiritual centres of not only Gipuzkoa, but for many around the world. The sanctuary, an extraordinary array of Baroque architecture, surrounds the family home of the saint in the Urola river valley. 

The birthplace of Ignacio de Loyola has been preserved since medieval times while the basilica’s colossal dome and its 150-metre façade loom large. The basilica’s stunning interior astonishes for its flamboyant altars and its remarkable pipe organ. Beyond its enormous architectural value, the sanctuary remains an important spiritual focal point with a busy agenda of year-round religious services.

Arantzazu Sanctuary

In the municipality of Oñati, surrounded by an incredible landscape of rocks and gorges, rises the sanctuary dedicated to the patron saint of Gipuzkoa, Our Lady of Arantzazu. The name means ‘place of hawthorns’ and legend says the virgin Mary once appeared above one such thorny shrub.

Despite the ancient origins of this cult, the sanctuary is an outstanding example of Basque avant-garde art. The current structure, after many fires and rebuildings over the centuries, was initiated in 1950 and includes masterpieces of art from some of the most prestigious Basque artists of the 20th century.

The façade features outstanding work by Jorge Oteiza, who sculpted the Apostles, while the grandiose, 600 square-metre apse was the work of Lucio Muñoz. The surprisingly modern architecture is notable for its pointed contours, reminiscent of the hawthorn tree. The audacity of the artists who participated was such that works were stopped for nearly fifteen years.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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The smallest condominium in the world

Pheasant Island is actually, more than an island, a river islet. It is, as noted, an expanse of land exactly 224 meters long by 41 meters wide. This makes it the smallest condominium in the world, understanding this as a place governed by two or more states.

In its borders there are only some poplars that rise among the weeds and grass, high walls of an islet in which the presence of man is only palpable in the existence of a monolith. This stone of artificial origin is the only vestige that remains there of history, that which made it a place of shared sovereignty.

An inscription commemorates the events of that time. Thus, the side of the monolith facing Spain is in Spanish, while the side facing France is inscribed in French. Which ones were the events that the island witnessed? Why was the administration divided up in this way?

Pheasant Island, land of pacts and royal marriages

In the middle of the 17th century, the so-called Thirty Years' War came to an end, a European conflict that pitted the House of Habsburg against France, although Denmark, Sweden, Bohemia... Spain was on the side of the Habsburgs, so it confronted, among others, France. What should be known is that, once the conflict ended with the signing of the Peace of Westphalia in 1648, the monarchies of Spain and France did not manage to stop their hostilities between them.

It was for this reason, and this is where the Pheasant Island comes into the picture, that on November 7, 1659 a new pact was signed there: the Treaty of Peace of the Pyrenees. The signing of this document put an end to the war between the two states. The 124 articles that made up this treaty were signed by the representatives of King Philip IV of Spain and King Louis XIV of France. At least 24 meetings were necessary to reach a consensus between the two countries, one of which was prepared by Velázquez himself shortly before his death. As a result of this large number of meetings, the island is also known as the conference island.

The Peace of the Pyrenees was also ratified by the marriage between Louis XIV and the Infanta Maria Theresa of Austria, daughter of Philip IV, which again took place on the island. Earlier, in 1615, the marriage between the French monarch Louis XIII and the Spanish princess Anne of Austria, daughter of Philip II, was also arranged here. Likewise, Isabella of Bourbon and Philip IV had their corresponding marriages here. All these weddings gave the island another name to call it: island of the princesses.

Treaty of Bayonne

Already in the 19th century, the Treaty of Bayonne was signed with the intention of putting an end to the continuous discussions between the Spanish and French fishermen, who found in the island a pretext for dispute. This treaty involved the sharing of sovereignty on the island, a legislation that has remained in force to the present day. Thus, for half of the year, the members of the Naval Command of San Sebastian are responsible for its jurisdiction. On August 1, this passes into the hands of the Bayonne Naval Commands.

However, in practice, the municipalities of Irun and Hendaye are in charge of managing the territory, which does not require much attention. It is only necessary to make sure that no one enters or camps there, as well as to take care of the undergrowth. In 1843 the writer Victor Hugo visited Pheasant Island and lamented the obvious expectation generated by the name: there was no pheasant there. "At most a cow and three ducks", wrote the author.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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Highlights to see in the Basque Country

Vitoria (Araba)

Vitoria-Gasteiz is one of those essential stops on any Basque itinerary. A visit to Santa María cathedral and a photo in Virgen Blanca square in front of the Vitoria-Gasteiz sign is recommended as well as Machete and Burullería squares and the old historic quarter.

Additionally, if time allows, it is worth taking the murals and pintxos walking tours, not to mention a visit to the Fournier de Vitoria Museum, one of the best museums in the world dedicated to playing cards.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (Bizkaia)

When searching for images of the Basque Country online, some of the first ones to appear are of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a small chapel right by the sea made famous by the series Game of Thrones.

The chapel is a tenth century religious temple built on a small isthmus, including a footbridge necessary to reach it. While making one’s way on this path, with plenty of steps, be sure to enjoy the spectacular views. It is also worth mentioning that there is no entry fee.

Gorbeia Natural Park (Araba and Bizkaia)

As far as nature is concerned, Gorbeia Natural Park is one of those absolute must-see places in the Basque Country. The Otzarreta beech forest is undoubtedly the most famous, a place filled with magic and landscapes unique to the Iberian peninsula.

Other highly recommended places to visit within this nature park are the village of   Otxandio, the Oro sanctuary, the Gujuli waterfall and the Saldropo fen. Clearly, this is quite an appealing place for trekking enthusiasts.

San Sebastián (Gipuzkoa)

Donostia-San Sebastián is a city that needs no introduction. In addition to the beautiful beach of La Concha, one should definitely visit the streets of the old city, the Buen Pastor cathedral, the Miramar palace and the Comb of the Wind sculpture along the seafront.

As well, if travelling with children, the Mount Igeldo amusement park, with its vintage rides and hundred-year old cable railway, is a great way to spend an afternoon. What’s more, the best views of all the city are found from there.

Bermeo (Bizkaia)

When it comes to quaint villages in the Basque Country, Bermeo is, perhaps, one of the most acclaimed. Located on the coast of Bizkaia, it is one of the main fishing villages in the area. It is one of those places that possesses personality and unique charm.

Here, a stroll through Lamera park and a visit to the Casino building followed by Santa María church, the old port and Ercilla tower make for a complete tour of a quintessential Basque village.

Tolosa (Gipuzkoa)

When asked what to see in the Basque Country, Tolosa is one of those obligatory visits. This town was once the capital of Bizkaia and was a strategic point along the routes between the kingdoms of Navarre, Castile and France. It is characterised by its medieval urban centre and its wide cultural offering, especially its carnivals. In terms of tourism, the General Archive of Gipuzkoa, Euskal Herria square, the Church of Santa María and the Castilla gate are all of interest.

Hondarribia (Gipuzkoa)

Given the fact that Hondarribia is on the list of Spain’s most beautiful towns and villages, it should clearly be on the itinerary here. It is a very picturesque fishing town that attracts many for its traditional architecture, seafood and pintxos.

As well, special mention should be given to Santa María gate, Obispo and Armas squares and Nagusia street while a pleasant stroll around the port, Gipuzkoa square and Fuenterrabía wall is also recommended.

Nervión Falls (Araba)

One of the most amazing natural spots in the Basque Country and the Iberian peninsula’s tallest waterfall is the Nervión Falls. The majestic view of its 270-metre drop leaves most onlookers speechless.

It is always better to visit this site soon after heavy rains as little or no water is a possibility. Nervión Falls is situated on Mount Santiago, where car parking is available.

Bilbao (Bizkaia)

Of course, Bilbao would make any list of must-see places in the Basque Country. Among its most outstanding sites are the Guggenheim Museum, the old historic quarter, the Arriaga theatre, Nueva square and the Ribera market.

Time permitting, walks along the estuary, a tour of San Mamés football stadium as well as the unmissable World Heritage listed Bizkaia bridge joining Getxo and Portugalete are all great things to see.

Zumaia (Gipuzkoa)

Zumaia is one of the loveliest towns on the coast of Gipuzkoa and is famous for the   San Telmo chapel, perched on a cliff, which appeared in the film Spanish Affairs (Originally "Ocho apellidos vascos"). The highlights of this town include Zumaya port, its old quarter, Itzurun beach and its rock flysch, a geological rock formation caused by thousands of years of seawater erosion.

What to see in the Basque Country is both easy and difficult to answer, for the list of recommended places to visit here is endless. Of course, the best thing to do is to pack a suitcase, take the car and explore this beautiful region.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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A rainbow at the heart of Bilbao

You won’t need to walk far to get to this quarter that reminds everyone of a movie setting and doesn’t seem like a northern Spanish residential area. Iralabarri is a explosion of colour, a row of green, orange, yellow, and blue façades that take every visitor to the London neighbourhood it is compared with.

These façades belong to centenarian townhouses that have survived speculative urbanism. Most of them succumbed in the 1970s and 1980s, but those that are still in place create one of the less popular corners of Bilbao, one of the most photogenic and charming as well.

These rows scatter throughout three streets, especially: Baiona, Kirikiño and Zuberoa. Their architecture obviously reminds of Anglo-Saxon buildings. However, it won’t be long before you find the influences of traditional Basque architecture and a few Modernist details that belong to the times when they were built.

These houses were built to accommodate workers of the local bread industry. The architects Federico de Ugalde and Enrique Epalza designed modern houses that are equipped with two or three bedrooms, one living room, one kitchen, and one bathroom behind these picturesque façades. They were extremely luxurious for the working class of the early 20th century.

Iralabarri, an ambitious housing project

The story of this place is as singular as its appearance. Juan José Irala is its main character. This employer created a bakery that rapidly flourished, which led to the construction of the Harino-Panadera factory years later. He provided the most recent machines at the time and turned the factory into the best factory in Spain.

The factory needed workers. And those workers needed suitable housing in accordance with the social hygiene movement of the era, which advocated for the environmental health of the cities and more decent life conditions for their citizens. In this regard, Irala bought the lots near the factory and founded the Sociedad Anónima Inmobiliaria.

Just 10 years later, in 1916, the neighbourhood had come to life. This neighbourhood covered 15 streets and around 3,000 people lived on it in 1920. The factory workers didn’t have to travel to work and could live in decent houses that were cheaper than those in the city.

However, Irala’s project was more ambitious than just a few residential blocks and townhouses with gardens and urban orchards. He actually included a whole service network in his construction plans, which included schools, social centres, a church, supermarkets, and its own tramway.

More than one hundred years have passed, and Iralabarri is still one of Spain's most colourful quarters, but it has changed a lot. While it doesn’t smell like freshly baked bread anymore, most of its citizens are still working class. Although its population has increased, some of its original buildings have been replaced with more modern ones that lack Iralabarri’s original essence.

The big city extinguished Irala’s shine, and it remained in the dark for a few decades, barely remembered. But the peculiar image of the rainbow painted by its façades and social media are bringing life back to it. In fact, it is one of the many tourist attractions hidden in the city of Bilbao.

What to see in Irala

The neighbourhood of Irala rises high on the left side of Ría de Bilbao, only a few kilometres away from the city centre. This quarter of steep streets must be visited slowly. Calm is necessary to get lost in every little detail and really dive into its history and an essence that can be perceive even now.

Actually, Iralabarri is more than its vibrant façades that remind of British constructions. It has plenty of mural paintings that showcase the best of urban art. It houses many traditional taverns where you should enjoy a pintxo or a tapa. And, although the bread that led to the birth of this place isn’t made anymore, one of the buildings of the old bread factory is still in place today—the mill. This concrete building still shelters a large part of the original machinery that was used for making flour for many years.

In the neighbourhood of Miribilla, not very far from Iralabarri, you can take a look at some of the buildings of that more modern Bilbao. On one hand, you can see Bilbao Arena, one of the most avant-garde sports centres in Spain. On the other, you will find Frontón Bizkaia, temple of an extremely popular Basque sport, the pelota mano.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

A history linked to the city itself

The history of the Old Cathedral is linked to the history of the city itself, so the origins of the latter must be summarized to understand the foundations of the former. Sancho VI founded Vitoria in 1181, on the village of Gasteiz, with the intention of making it part of the line of defense of the kingdom of Navarre. At that time, Navarre and Castile were in conflict. This defense was of little use: in 1202, the Castilian King Alfonso VIII conquered it.

After a fire in 1202, the monarch rebuilt part of the city and the original church of Santa Maria was built. It was built to fulfill the defense function with which the entire population center was emerging, but also, of course, as a place of worship. For its location a privileged space was chosen: the building began to be built on top of an old temple, in the highest part of the city. It was integrated as part of the wall, even forcing the main entrance gate to be pulled down to make room for the monumental temple that was to be built. It was during the 13th and 14th centuries when it acquired the Gothic appearance that it still retains today.

At the end of the 15th century, the parish became a collegiate church. Thus, Santa Maria became the most important ecclesiastical center in the area, converted into a cathedral with the creation of the diocese of Vitoria in 1862. Before this last conversion, the reforms and the processes of beautification of the complex began, which in no case was prepared to sustain the changes that were coming. For example, the substitution of a light wooden vault for a heavy stone one. Unable to sustain these horizontal thrusts, the structural balance was altered and there was no turning back. The pillars and arches were deformed, the vaults were filled with cracks and by the 17th century the situation was one of imminent ruin.

The construction of the Cathedral of María Inmaculada, known by the obvious as the New Cathedral, left this half-ruined complex without functions, which began to officiate a daily mass and a major mass on Sundays. The lack of maintenance and conservation worsened the situation. Likewise, the intervention carried out in the sixties of the last century only aggravated the problems that had existed practically since its conception. In 1994 it was closed to the public to undergo a complex restoration plan. The objective was to tackle once and for all the structural problems of this great Gothic temple.

A great Gothic temple

Because, in spite of everything, the Old Cathedral of Vitoria is a marvelous temple. It is possible to identify different styles in the complex, since the numerous buildings that make it up were erected at different times. The main and oldest is the church of Santa María. With a Latin cross plan, it has three naves, the central one of greater height, covered with ribbed vaults. Its enormity is surprising.

Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries other elements were added: the bell tower, the choir, the chapels, the altars and the tombs. Most of them have been modified over time. The chapel of Santiago, which was one of the first to be built, is currently the parish church of Santa María. It has an independent access from the square of the same name. Also noteworthy is the portico and the triple doorway, in correspondence with the three naves.

Large, bright and full of details, a visit to this temple is a must when you stop in Vitoria. One must begin by getting to know its foundations. During the last excavation works, more than 200 burials were discovered in the subsoil, a hundred belonging to the XI and XII centuries. Its history is vast. Not in vain, it seems that this Old Cathedral was the inspiration for Ken Follet's Pillars of the Earth.

Open for works

In June 2000, the Cathedral of Santa María offered its visitors a different way of getting to know the temple. After putting on a helmet to protect their heads, the curious could discover many nooks and crannies of the cathedral, some of which were under construction. Under the ingenious slogan 'open for works', the doors of this historic building were opened to allow those who wished to know the symbol of a city with which it grew up at the same time. The architectural, archaeological and restoration work began to be presented to the public, clearly and openly. This initiative is still going strong and has managed to capture the attention of the whole world.

Since 2014, the Old Cathedral is once again open for worship. The main reason for its conception was thus restored, combining it with the work that is still being carried out. In June of last year, its oldest, the Santa Ana façade, was recovered. It is expected that soon it will be able to shine with the splendor that this temple that was born with the city and that has not stopped growing, even with many obstacles, with this one, deserves.

Therefore, it was essential to wisely choose the locations that were about to embody the grandeur of the North American author’s writing. One of the sceneries they used for that purpose is located in the Basque Country; yes, we’re talking about the shrine of Gaztelugatxeko Doniene and its stairway to heaven —a heaven full of dragons, for sure.

Dragonstone and the return of the queen

Dragonstone is a key scenery of the series (spoiler alert!) in the seventh season of Game of Thrones. In fact, that’s exactly where the season starts, in the castle that House Targaryen of Dragonstone escaped to after surviving the Doom of Valyria, although later on it was conquered by House Baratheon. Dragonstone sheltered House Targaryen hundreds of years ago, opening a new chapter in the history of Westeros. When Daenerys Targaryen returns to the island of her ancestors, she reaffirms her goal of conquering the land than once belonged to her bloodline. Daenerys believes she is the rightful heir to the throne, and she won’t stop until the Mother of Dragons herself sits on it.

Watching the world from above

The place used to portray Dragonstone should convey the same feelings the castle of House Targaryen does: the sense of being unreachable, of flying over the Seven Kingdoms, above everything. After all, it’s a dragon’s lair, one of those places that are naturally inaccessible to humans, for only those exceptional creatures can reach their sacred den. That’s what Dragonstone should feel like, and the shrine of Gaztelugatxeko Doniene in Bizkaia perfectly fits the description, standing above everything like House Targaryen. It leans out on the Cantabrian Sea, and it belongs more to its dark blue waters than to the shore. If we want to access the temple, we’ll have to cross a wooden bridge and climb up a total of 241 steps.

Indeed, one of the most striking scenes in the seventh season of Game of Thrones takes place in the never-ending stairs of Gaztelugatxe. Even if the shrine was digitally replaced by a magnificent castle, they achieved their original goal: to display a place that felt as inaccessible as majestic. And of course, a place where three mighty dragons crossed the sky.

Reaching Mount Igeldo on a hundred-year-old cable car

Our visit to Mount Igeldo will start by stepping on a cable car that will take us to the top of the mountain. One can also access the amusement park by car, but this old vehicle just makes the entrance more exciting. Indeed, the cable travels vertically through the trees, offering a fantastic view.

The most interesting fact about this vehicle is perhaps that it still keeps its original wooden cabins, which date back to 1912: this makes the Igeldo cable car the oldest one in the Basque Country yet. It departs from a beautiful station in the square called Plaza del Funicular, where the inhabitants of Donostia used to take the cable car to get to the casino or to the dance hall up on the mountain. This cable car ride will definitely be a fun adventure for the kids heading to the amusement park.

Besides, this station is really close to the Comb of the Wind, one of the most popular monuments in Donostia, which we can easily visit before or after being to Mount Igeldo. The Comb of the Wind is a set of sculptures by Eduardo Chillida that awaits us at the end of the beach of Ondarreta, standing among the waves and rocks of the Basque coast.

The most spectacular views in Donostia-San Sebastián

The cable car reaches the entrance of the amusement park on top of the mountain, and the first thing that will amaze us is the magnificent sight of the bay and the city. This lookout grants the possibility of taking the best pictures of Donostia, including the beach of La Concha, the Santa Clara Island, the cathedral or the bridge of María Cristina.

In fact, when we google this gorgeous city, most of the pictures the search engine will show us were shot from this very place, as well as many postcards they sell on gift shops. It makes perfect sense, considering that, from this perspective, we see the most iconic picture of Donostia. We can even walk up to the tower of Mount Igeldo to enjoy the views from its highest point.

Mount Igeldo: a vintage amusement park

Once the visitors take all the beautiful pictures they wish, they will start to explore the amusement park of Mount Igeldo. This vintage amusement park was inaugurated on 25 August 1912, and all of its 20 devices for entertainment are still up and running. In the early 20^th century, there were two more amusement parks in Donsotia, one in Ulia and one in Martutene, but only Mount Igeldo has persisted to this day.

It was a lawyer called Evaristo San Martín who came up with the idea of building this amusement park, and the architect Luis Elizalde designed both the station and the restaurant. Back then, Mount Igeldo also had a casino, an assembly hall, a dance hall and two cinemas. However, time has considerably changed this amusement park.

One of the most remarkable rides in the park is the Mysterious River, a narrow channel leading boats around the mountain and displaying all sorts of spectacular sights of Donostia and its surroundings. The Swiss Mountain will also grant us a great ride where we will feel like flying over the Cantabrian Sea. It is also the oldest functioning steel rollercoaster in the world. In addition, the bravest kids and adults will really enjoy the Horror House.

In the Labyrinth, the visitors will have to find the exit through a series of never-ending corridors, impossible crossroads and slides. On the other hand, those who would prefer a calm and relaxing evening will love the Boat Pond. Other fun activities include bumper cars, the Kosmikar, the carrousel or Igeldo’s Train.

Besides all that, the amusement park of Mount Igeldo holds trampolines, slides, all kinds of games, food stalls and a restaurant where one can eat with fantastic views. All in all, one can easily spend at least a few hours enjoying this place. It is also worth mentioning that both the amusement park and the cable car were declared Assets of Cultural Interest in 2014.

The old lighthouse of Donostia-San Sebastián

Another interesting spot in Mount Igeldo is its beautiful tower, which used to be a lighthouse. At a height of 130 metres above the sea level, this tower guided the ships when they had to access the harbour. Besides, its strategic location allowed the tower to escape from the fog, a rather common phenomenon in this area.

We can walk up the five floors of the tower through a spiral staircase. There is a lift there, but it is not in operation anymore. Once up there, we will see a crenellated terrace where we can admire a landscape that extends from the cape Matxitxako in Bizkaia to the French Landas. Likewise, we can use our way through the spiral staircase to observe the rich nuances of Donostia.

In short, Mount Igeldo is a must-see corner for anyone visiting Gipuzkoa for many reasons, like its rides, the views, its natural surroundings or the fantastic experience of sitting on a cable car that is more than a hundred years old.

This place is known as the Basque Switzerland due to its marvellous fairy-tale landscapes. The valley lies at the foot of the Urkiola Natural Park, in the province of Araba. The mountains and wide pine forests make it the ideal destination for excursionists and nature lovers. However, Aramaio is more than that. Much more, indeed. In the following lines, we will go over the wonders of this enchanting place.

Contrasts, mountains and legends

When one arrives at Aramaio for the first time, the first thing that strikes them is the changing colours of the forests. Green and brown shades blend in a fascinating colour palette. Sometimes, we can also see low-lying clouds creeping through the valley. The village of Ibarra lies between its high mountains and steep slopes. This is a picturesque postcard of traditional houses that seems like the perfect starting point for exploring the area.

In the north of the valley, the mountains Arangio and Gantzaga welcome experienced excursionists that leave the green forests behind, wandering through the rocky trails that reach the mountain tops of Orixol and Izpizte, which are more than 1300 metres high. In order to follow these paths, it’s recommended to be in good shape and have hiking experience. Near these mountains we have Anboto, one of the most beautiful mountains in the Basque Country. This place plays an important role in Basque mythology, being home to one of the most remarkable myths in the Basque Country: the legend of the lady of Anboto.

According to Basque folklore, Mother Earth is a woman with long, golden hair, and she lives in a cave in the mountain Anboto. This deity called Mari had control over the region’s weather, hence shepherds used to make offerings to the goddess so that the crops and weather were good to them. Every seven years, Mari changed hideout and some believed they had seen her cross the sky on a chariot of fire.

Opposite Anboto, there are more easily accessible mountains such as Murugain and Jarindo, less high and equally beautiful. The mountain pass of Cruceta offers a beautiful panoramic view of the valley and the villages scattered through the hills. It’s easy to get there, which makes it a good option for enjoying nature in a nice family trip.

Exploring the villages in Aramaio

One of the most beautiful views in the valley consists of red-tiled white houses standing between Aramaio’s green hills. Some are isolated in the landscape; others gather in small villages. For example, Ibarra is a picturesque stone village with a lookout point that is perfect for contemplating the valley and the church of San Martín, as well as having excellent Basque cider houses called “sagardotegi”. Ibarra is a central point in the area, and in its outskirts spread the traditional Basque “baserri” or farmhouses, displaying the rural life of its inhabitants; the most important ones are Erdikoa and Arriola Bengoa, in the village of Arriola.

If the weather is good, one might enjoy a lovely walk through a circular path which links Ibarra, Arraga, Arriola and Errotaberri. Each of them mirrors the slow and laborious lifestyle of the valley. In its cider houses we will be able to breathe the most welcoming air, and all their delicious dishes taste like the true essence of Basque cuisine.

Living Aramaio

You might ask yourself: how would it feel to actually live in Aramaio? This valley hosts little ateliers that organise activities for anyone who likes to experience the Basque rural life. Some farms even provide tours showing how milk and sheep cheese are made, among other things. Certainly, this is the best way to understand country life.

Apart from the countless hiking possibilities here, the most adventurous ones might want to check out the three reservoirs spreading in the region. There, water sports such as kayaking, rowing or light sailing are considerably popular. It’s the perfect plan for enjoying some magical days in this fairy-tale valley.

Elorrio, a journey through the past of Vizcaya

Although at first sight Elorrio might seem like just another small town, the truth is that it has a charm that makes you fall in love. As soon as you arrive on its cobblestone streets, you feel like being in the middle of the 18th century. Palaces, noble buildings and a peace that makes you escape from the noise of big cities. The Gernikako Arbola square, the impressive Basilica of Purisima Concepcion and the temple of San Agustin de Etxebarria, built in 1051, invite visitors to immerse themselves in a unique medieval set.

As a result of the good conservation of these impressive constructions, Elorrio is known as the town of the Coats of Arms. In fact, it is said that throughout the town there are 69 coats of arms waiting to be discovered. Between pintxo and pintxo, we recommend a visit to the necropolis of Argiñeta, a large group of funeral stelae of medieval character in which there are writings in Latin of Visigothic origin.

Mundaka, the surfing paradise of Vizcaya

Mundaka is without a doubt one of the most beautiful villages of Vizcaya. Located in the heart of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, this picturesque landscape is tinged with colorful houses and the smell of sea typical of coastal villages. The best way of getting to know Mundaka is a pleasant walk through the port combined with a good Patxarán. Or a delicious dinner to try the best gastronomic recipes of Euskadi. The hermitage of Santa Catalina and the Church of Santa Maria show visitors a centuries-old architecture that has survived the time.

This place is known for being the left wave of Euskadi. In other words, it is a surfer's paradise. So much so that this tiny village has become the place where the international championships is held. Laida beach is another must-see, as are its Carnival festivities. One of the oldest in the Basque Country that attracts more and more curious people every year.

Lekeitio, the aristocrat's paradise

One of the things that most identify Lekeitio is that it was the favorite destination of the aristocrats of the 20th century to enjoy their summer holidays. And why? Quite simply. Because it is a real holiday paradise where the charm of its streets combines with the beautiful colors of its beaches.

Lekeitio is the perfect stop to relax by the sea while tasting the best of Basque cuisine in one of the terraces of the port. The picturesque fishermen's neighbourhood, the fish market, the Uriarte palace and the beautiful Santa Catalina lighthouse are must-sees.

Orozko, charm among mountains of Vizcaya

Along the Altube river, there are several colorful hanging houses immersed in a unique natural space. Orozko is charming for several reasons. One of them is that it is located in the natural park of Gorbeia, so its beauty is infinite. A rural paradise that makes its visitors smile. Its most significant icons are the Tower of Aranguren, the Ethnographic Museum and its many traditional houses. Orozko sausage is one of its specialties.

Balmaseda, a rural getaway

Right on the border between the Basque Country and Castile and León is Balmaseda. A town full of charm where nature and architecture create their own landscape of contrasts. The first thing that catches the eye in Balmaseda is an impressive 13th century stone bridge known as Puente Viejo. At this point, one can already feel that it is an unforgettable place.

Its historic center is perfect get lost for hours. Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest, its streets lead to small palaces, stately buildings and churches. The Town Hall is of Mudejar inspiration and its Holy Week celebrations are one of the best known in the Basque Country. Young and old prepare every year to play their best role in the Via Crucis. Balmaseda is also well known for being one of the first towns in which a factory of txapelas, the well-known Basque hats, was built.

The gastronomic curiosity of this town is that it is the birthplace of the famous putxera, a delicious red bean stew. And it was conceived as many great successes are conceived: unintentionally. One of the train drivers working on a freight train came up with a curious formula that allowed him to heat his food: a small stove that took advantage of the steam from the railroad. Little by little the train driver tried more and more stews until the ingredients of the putxera convinced him. That is why this dish is also known as 'olla ferroviaria'.

Ondárroa, land of contrasts in Vizcaya

Sea and mountains. Past and future. If there is one thing that is clear, it is that Ondárroa has all the ingredients to enjoy both a spiritual retreat in the middle of nature and to have fun the activities organized here. This town in Vizcaya has managed to combine tradition and modernism to perfection. Majestic medieval buildings stand in its old town giving way to more modern manifestations such as the Itsasaurre bridge. A must? The beach of Arrigorri.

Elantxobe, cliffs everywhere

Stepped houses, mountains cut into the horizon, cliffs... And a picturesque walled port. Elantxobe is a small village to discover little by little. To be surprised by the force of the waves breaking on the rocks, to taste its rich gastronomy with the best seafood and, especially, to discover the typical Cantabrian landscape.

One of the great attractions of Elantxobe are its natural pools, perfect to enjoy a refreshing bath in summer or an idyllic view in winter. Its streets are mostly cobblestone and steep. For this reason, if you have never visited the village before, be careful when walking downhill. And always wear comfortable shoes!

Ibarrangelu, the rural postcard of Vizcaya

Very close to Elantxobe is this small rural beauty. Ibarrangelu is one of those little villages that attract attention from far away. Located very close to the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, this destination surprises already in its surroundings with the beautiful beaches of Laida and Laga and the cape of Ogoño.

Ibarrangelu has an important historical heritage. A walk through its quiet streets reveals the beautiful chapel of the Sagrado Corazon de Jesus, the neighborhood of Akorda with the church of Santa Maria Engracia and the chapel of San Pedro de Atxarre. The perfect getaway to enjoy the most authentic rural atmosphere of Vizcaya.

Plentzia, a walk along the estuary

Although it may seem less touristy than the rest of the villages, the truth is that Plentzia is a fishing village with a very special beauty. A wide estuary separates the town in two and is decorated with small boats and colorful boats. The walk along the estuary is a must. First because it gives the walker with that idyllic look of a fishing village. Second, because the promenade leads to a bridge of modern design and, a few meters away, there are some terraces and restaurants perfect for enjoying an epic sunset.

It is said that Plentzia was once surrounded by a stone wall. The only witness that remains of those times is the mythical arch of Santiago, a must-see. Another of its architectural jewels is the Barri tower, belonging to the Butrón lineage, which exhibits an imposing stone shield.

Bermeo, the industrial jewel

In the heart of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve lies this small oasis of peace. Bermeo is one of those Cantabrian places that conquers you as soon as you visit them. Half seafaring and half medieval, this small town gives a trip through the colorful houses that are distributed in its port. Of its old town highlights the Town Hall, the church of Santa Maria and the Ercilla Tower.

Otxandio, the monumental Vizcaya

The imposing tower of the church of Santa Mariñe welcomes you to a stately village: Otxandio. A town full of palace houses, monuments and an architectural taste full of elegance. Its rich main square leads to the beautiful Vulcano fountain, the Town Hall, declared a National Monument, and Uribarrena street with its beautiful stately homes. A historical cocktail that is topped with an impressive natural landscape.

The wonderful location of Otxandio, between the natural parks of Urkiola and Gorbeia, makes it a unique destination to explore the medieval past of Vizcaya without losing contact with nature typical of the climate of northern Spain. Very close to this village is the Urrúnaga reservoir, perfect for water sports.

The bloody past of Butrón Castle

The origin of the tower-house that gave rise to Butrón Castle is somewhat confusing. Associated with the family and the river that gives it its name, tradition places the original construction in the 8th century. It would have been a knight, Captain Gamíniz, who built it. However, this type of building actually emerged around the 14th century. Since the Butron dynasty emerged at the beginning of the 13th century, there was probably a Butrón residence there before that.

Descendants of the Haro, lords of Bizkaia, and over time half of the European royal houses, were very active in the Bandos Wars. These conflicts devastated the Basque provinces from the 13th to the 15th century. There were two sides, the Oñacinos and the Gamboínos. The Butrón chose the former. The atmosphere was unbearable throughout the region during those years.

Nobles of one side fought under almost any pretext with the other. In the middle was the people, who were often massacred for being in the wrong place. Fortunately, most of the time the outbursts were limited to brawls rather than battles. A context that reminds us of the wars of the mafia and with which each side tried to take over the economic and social domination of the Basque Country.

All of this ended up being the seed of the Brotherhoods, which in turn were the nucleus of the Provincial Councils. These entities made it possible for the nobles to do something about it. However, from tower houses like those of Butrón, the banderizos had their position secured. In this case, it was a powerful building with thick walls. It had a complex of forges that were among the most important in Bizkaia. Finally, after the Castilian intervention in the mid-15th century to put an end to the increasingly uncontrolled warfare, the space was reconverted into a manor house.

From tower-house to romantic castle

For centuries, the Butrons were integrated, and finally diluted, into the Castilian aristocratic system. They were an important family and had a presence until the 18th century. Plentzia was their main focus of power. It should also be noted that its name most probably comes from some fishing gear reflected on its coat of arms.

By the middle of the 19th century the medieval fortress was in the hands of the 7th Marquis de la Torrecilla. It was him, Narciso de Salabert y Pinedo, who decided to give a new life to the then ruined complex. To do so, he pulled out the money that his Biscayan possessions gave him. Also from one of the most renowned architects of his time, Francisco de Cubas. Although he was known for being the mayor of Madrid and for the Almudena Cathedral, his was the design of Butrón Castle.

Although medieval elements were exploited, the whole planned by the Marquis of Cubas was radically different from what it was. The neo-Gothic style was predominant, very overloaded, to which was added an amalgamation inspired by the center and north of Europe to Spanish cities like Segovia with its Alcazar. Little by little, the strange building took shape.

Four powerful bastions mark the floor plan, at each corner. Round and strong, they contrast sharply with the keep and the front facade. More elaborate, full of spikes and openings, they give a fairytale appearance. It seems that the watchtowers are piled up. Another sign of identity is that the spaces are often connected in a way that is more aesthetic than effective, for example through exterior passages. So it is clear that the intention of the palace was to be attractive, not comfortable.

The abandonment of Butrón Castle

The predominance of the shape made the habitability of the building somewhat complicated. It served as a residence, but was not as comfortable as a more normal one. For example, the walls of around four meters of some towers left small rooms that were difficult to access. Its undoubted attractiveness made it a place to be seen, but it did not have a definitive owner.

It passed through different hands during the 20th century, until it ended up in the hands of a business conglomerate. Currently part of the municipality of Gatika, they have been trying to sell it for years without success. It was even auctioned off. Valued at several million euros and declared a protected heritage, its last active mission was to serve as a place for meetings and celebrations until shortly after the turn of the millennium.

Since then it has remained abandoned. The black of the bastions is a good example of this, since the stone in which they are made is white. The enormous garden surrounding it, where palm trees grew, is not well cared for either.

However, the deep green of the surroundings reinforces the fantastic postcard of Butrón Castle. Therefore, despite not being able to see inside, it does not stop receiving visits from tourists. Its location favours this, as the A-8 allows easy access to the local roads leading to the site. Likewise, it is right between Bilbao capital and Bermeo. This means that San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is also close by.

The exit to the Cantabrian Sea is provided by the above-mentioned seafaring Plentzia. You can take a circular route between the two points, which is about 14 kilometres long and not very difficult. A way of admiring the environment between sea and mountains that characterizes the Basque coast. It is also worth taking a walk between the castle and Gatika, a small inland town with great charm.

On the map of the municipality of Gautegiz Arteaga, 40 kilometers from Bilbao, in the heart of the Basque lands of Bizkaia, the presence of this neo-Gothic fortress is outlined. The Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve is the backdrop and protagonist of a story where infinite threads of time and space intermingle. Pulling them, it is possible to travel from its construction in the Middle Ages to its nineteenth-century restoration, with a markedly French character. To get to know the castle better, to see it up close, to feel the limestone and marble of its walls in the palm of your hand... All this is possible by walking through a chronological passageway, illuminated by the light of the stories to be discovered.

A castle for the empress

The Arteaga Castle has been, for centuries, a silent witness of historical events that have left their own footprint on its walls. The imposing figure, seen in the horizon of the estuary of Urdabai or Gernika, revives that well-known desire that the stones speak. The stories that its walls could tell since its construction, with rocks from the quarries of Gautegiz Arteaga, are infinite.

The first formation, from the 13th century, would consist of a walled enclosure with a central keep and four towers, one at each corner. But throughout the fifteenth century its physiognomy was mutating, due to the inclement weather of a geography marked by the climate of the Bay of Bizkaia. Although, especially because of the wars and struggles that it had to face on many occasions. It was even destroyed in 1358 by Pedro de Castilla.

Later, during the Carlist wars, it was taken by the troops of General Velasco, becoming the personal residence of the latter. But before this episode, the future of Arteaga Castle was already uncertain. Little was left of the splendor of its famous towers, Arteaga and Gautegiz, so named in honor of the lands they occupied. Little was left of moats or drawbridges. It remained mute, visited only by the sea air coming from nearby beaches and cliffs. Its silence was surprised by the roar of the waves furrowing the estuary of the Oka River until they broke in Mundaka. The building grew old, inhabited only by the chirping of birds and the vegetation that grew around it. Until a stroke of fate played in its favor, materializing in an institutional decision.

It was the 19th century when an unexpected imperial wedding made the political and social chronicles of the Old Continent. On January 30, 1853, Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, nephew of the mythical Napoleon, married a Spaniard, Eugenia de Montijo. The entry of Castillo Arteaga into the imperial equation was due to the ancestry of the beautiful Eugenia. The empress was linked to this historic province due to her kinship with the lords of Arteaga and Gasteiz. Based on this ancestry, the General Assemblies of Bizkaia agreed in 1856 to make the son of the emperors a Biscayan by origin. Thus, Eugenio Bonaparte became the legitimate owner of this fortress located in the southern part of the Basque Country.

Soon after, at the wish of the emperors, work began on the restoration and refurbishment of the castle, entrusting the task to Couvrechet, the court architect. After his death, succeeded by Ancelet, the transformation of the castle resulted in the construction of a neo-Gothic tower. Thus, surrounded by gardens designed by Newman, gardener of the French royal house, a neo-medieval palace rose over the dark blue of the Gernika estuary. The son of Josephine and Napoleon III never occupied his quarters here, even though he sent staff and workers to Versailles from France.

Finally, the property remained in the hands of the House of Alba. An oratory adorned by stained glass windows, on the second floor a huge imperial bedroom and, on the main facade, a gigantic coat of arms. These are just some of the elements that made up the four floors, linked by a spiral staircase. From the entrance to touching the sky on the terrace overlooking the valley, the castle is a dream come true in a fairytale setting.

A magical environment

Arteaga Castle is located in a privileged enclave, in the heart of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. A space so declared by UNESCO in 1984, which occupies a changing and surprising geography. Just a few kilometers away, in the blink of an eye, the traveler can find himself in the middle of a nature that engulfs him completely. The visit can begin by looking for a passage through lush forests inhabited by an enormous variety of birds. Here, the Urdaibai Bird Center is a must stop for ornithology lovers. But you can also start by walking through the streets of Gautegiz Arteaga. A walk that ends contemplating the views of the estuary from the chapel of San Pedro de Arratxe.

The kilometers of the Urdabai Reserve are like circles drawn inside the tree trunks. Following its perimeter, little by little, it is possible to follow the history of its life. On the way there are millenary caves, such as Santimamiñe, in the southern part of the Ereñozar mountain. A human settlement, decorated by cave paintings, about 14,000 years ago, declared a World Heritage Site. Continuing the tour, the traces of art and nature come together again in the pine trees painted by Agustín Ibarrola in the Oma Forest.

Beyond the trees you can hear the roar of the Cantabrian sea approaching and receding in the sandy areas of Laiga and Lada. Its currents surround the legendary island of Izaro, in front of Bermeo, break against San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, shout, in a wave, the name of Mundaka. At the mouth of the Oka River, awaits the beautiful botanical garden of Txatxarramendi Island, which keeps anchored to its shore the secret of the Roman port of Portuondo. Meanwhile, the Middle Ages await at the top of Ereñozar, full of legends and walled vestiges. From there, the view is lost over the mountains of Durangaldea.

Already in the last circles of the trunk, the present offers urban environments with an irresistible cultural offer and, localities with names that transpire authentic history. From Gernika to Bilbao, Bermeo or San Sebastián or, behind the border, the seaside resort of Biarritz, following in the footsteps of Eugenia de Montijo.

The surroundings and the Arteaga Castle and Urdaibai offer a thousand possibilities. But it only takes a few minutes, just a few steps, to realize that this is a volume that invites to be reviewed page by page, from beginning to end. And in the epilogue, again the castle as the end of the journey or reading, contemplating the horizon from a tower, reading among the clouds.

Laguardia

Municipality in the province of Álava framed in the region of La Rioja Alavesa. Laguardia is located on a hill and is surrounded by a wall built by King Sancho el Fuerte of Navarre. Its medieval air can still be detected through its streets and corners, but also in the five gates that give access to the city: Mercadal, Carnicerías, Páganos, San Juan and Santa Engracia.

Its extensive heritage has allowed it to belong to the Association of the Most Beautiful Villages of Spain. In this town, founded in the 10th century as a defense of the Kingdom of Navarre, the fortified churches of San Juan Bautista and Santa María de los Reyes await. Also, Laguardia is full of medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and neoclassical buildings. On the other hand, it is worth mentioning that this town in Alava is full of wineries, since the wine industry is the main pillar of its economy.

Antoñana

A council of the municipality of Campezo that is located at the confluence of the rivers Ega and Sabando. It was founded in the 12th century by Sancho the Wise of Navarre as a fortified village on the site of an ancient fort. Its urban structure has undergone few modifications since that time: its streets are joined by cantons and its alleys and passages are covered with wooden structures.

Three parallel streets form the main structure of the town. In the Main Street there are several stone buildings with palatial appearance and coats of arms on their facades, some of them dating from the sixteenth century. In addition, one of the most outstanding features of Antoñana is its wall. This has been integrated as part of the houses of the village, so that windows and balconies overlook it piercing it. On the other hand, the tours through the surrounding mountains are of great interest, highlighting some trails that allow you to know the legendary yew trees over five meters.

Elciego

Another of the villages located in La Rioja Alavesa. This town, especially known for its spectacular wineries, such as the Marqués de Riscal winery, holds many treasures. From the viewpoint of Aires de San Roque you can contemplate all the beauty of the town. Elciego has numerous places to see, highlighting the Parish Church of San Andrés, built in the sixteenth century, with architectural styles such as Gothic or neoclassical. Also the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la Virgen de la Plaza or its Town Hall are more than worth admiring.

Quejana

Small town in the northwest of Álava. The natural parks of Valderejo and Gorbea are very close to this historic village. The village of Quejana is part of the municipality of Aiara and has a remarkable monumental ensemble linked to the lineage of the same name. The home of the former Chancellor of Castile, Don Pedro de Ayala, it is surrounded by green meadows and gentle hills. This fortification was built during the 14th century, being one of the best examples of the Gothic style. This complex is integrated by the Convent of the Dominican Mothers, the Church of San Juan Bautista, the Tower-Chapel or the Fortified Palace.

Artziniega

Medieval village located in the Valley of Aiara-Ayala in Alava. Its tower houses, emblazoned palaces and cobbled streets make this village a place worth visiting. The town has managed to preserve its historical legacy and enhance its value, in fact, the urban center of Artziniega was declared a Monumental Site in 1995. The Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de La Encina is located just one kilometer from the center. A building in honor of the patron saint of Artziniega, it is one of the most striking monuments of the town. Also, the waterfall of Artziniega, also known as the dam of La Teja, is one of its points of interest: a short and simple walk, which connects the historic center with the dam in question.

Salvatierra

Town located between the mountains of Entzia and Iturrieta, in Alava. Its first centuries of life were marked by its frontier character and the disputes between the Crowns of Navarre and Castile. The municipality was founded in 1256 by King Alfonso X the Wise on the village of Hagurahin. From this period is its walled medieval quarter, which was declared a Historic Site in 1975. Its main street houses the most interesting religious buildings, such as the churches of San Juan and Santa Maria, both built in the sixteenth century. It is also worth mentioning the old Pilgrims' Hospital, since the Way to Santiago crosses the town. The natural environment offers the possibility of multiple routes, both by bicycle and on foot.

Samaniego

Another of the most interesting villages of La Rioja Alavesa is Samaniego. A foreground of vineyards and terraces hides an interesting medieval structure with the Obarenes Mountains in the background. The importance of this town lies in its military location on the border. However, of the walls and castles of yesteryear, only a high tower remains, next to which the church was later built and is still standing today. The stone facades of its streets preserve the medieval atmosphere of this village. Of special mention is the Church of the Assumption dating from the fifteenth century and the Samaniego Palace from the seventeenth century. Also of special interest are its two hermitages: the Ermita de la Virgen del Valle and the Ermita de Cristo.

Markinez

The natural park of Izki, on the border with the province of Burgos, isolates small villages in the province of Alava. This is the case of one of the most beautiful villages of the province: Markinez, flanked by a ravine. Belonging to Bernedo, this town surprises for its rich environment, where in addition to the spectacular scenery, its artificial caves stand out. Markinez stands out for its emblazoned houses and its noble palaces of great beauty: the Town Hall is a magnificent example. Other places worth visiting in this town are the Church of Santa Eulalia, dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin, and the Hermitage of San Juan, built in the 13th century.

Labastida

Another of the villages of La Rioja Alavesa that you must visit. This village houses an archaeological site where remains of the Celtic populations that inhabited La Rioja in the past have been found. In addition to its importance as an ethnological enclave and the important heritage hidden behind its walls, its winding streets that mold to the hill on which it sits are surprising. The historic center of the village is accessed through the Larrazuria Arch, where you can find various manor houses and palaces, among which stands out the Palace of the Garaizabal. It is also interesting to visit its religious monuments: the Chapels of Santo Cristo or Santa Lucía and the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.

Cárcamo

In the municipality of Valdegovía, at the foot of the Arkamu mountain range, is the village of Cárcamo. This town, known for hosting the independent music festival Ebrovisión, was founded in the 11th century by Martín de Varona. Its medieval architecture is one of the most striking of this environment. What stands out most in its streets are the tower houses and stone buildings. Two main buildings stand out in the village: the church of the Assumption, in Romanesque style with later additions and the hermitage of San Juan Bautista, an austere Cistercian temple with a single nave and Romanesque style, dating from the 11th century.

Labraza

The village of Labraza, in the council of Oyón, sits on the upper course of the Ebro. Its beautiful walled enclosure was awarded as the best preserved in 2008. The town, with a medieval flavor, has several cubic towers that defend an oval urban center with restored narrow streets. Along with the remains of its castle, many of them well preserved and the wall, which serves as a facade of different buildings, there are many houses of Renaissance origin or the Church of San Miguel, whose Gothic walls were part of the defensive enclosure. This underwent major reforms in the 18th and 19th centuries. Another of the must-see places in Álava.

This is reflected in the market of which we write here, one of the most traditional and important in the community. A place where producers, buyers and neighbours gather to celebrate the variety and quality of the products of the area. Centuries of history back it up. Even today, every Saturday is crowded with locals and tourists.

Gastronomy and culture forever

The current market began to be built at the end of the 19th century, but before that, Tolosa was already bustling with trade. For 760 years, although the place of celebration has changed, this gathering of producers and buyers has been taking place. Easy to say, but it is a lot. It has been kept because markets have always been the best showcase to share local productions, healthier and more environmentally responsible. The Tolosa market is historic, committed and authentic.

Today, it is set in three open-air stages that turn the streets of the town into an authentic gastronomic and cultural fair. The products that can be enjoyed are fruit of the earth, worked in the farmhouses and picked at the right time. At a time when immediacy and fast food are catching up, it is so important to buy directly from the producer and be able to trust the quality and sustainability of the products purchased.

Three spaces, a unique concept

The Tolosa market operates on three stages, each dedicated to a specific area. Perhaps the most attractive is the one known as Tinglado, which was built between 1898 and 1900, from a former construction. It is a longitudinal building open on three sides, parallel to the river, which forms a beautiful picture full of life and colour.

More than 60 stalls offer a wide variety of fresh seasonal products, among which stand out those that have been linked to Tolosa for its quality and tradition. During the autumn and winter months, it is a must to taste the famous Tolosa beans, whose name comes from the importance that the city had in its commercialization. Also, during these months, pumpkins, cauliflowers and mushrooms have their place. In springtime, strawberries and cherries, among other fresh fruits, are the stars. During the summer, another classic: Ibarra chili peppers. Also the peppers of Gernika, tomatoes or eggplants. Tolosa is pure gastronomy.

In the Plaza Verdura, aromas and colours are protagonists, as it is the space dedicated to flowers and plants. Flowers to decorate the houses of the neighbours, aromatic herbs to enhance the flavour of meals and vegetables of all kinds to plant in the gardens.

In the Plaza Euskal Herria it makes sense that Tolosa has always been a meeting point, because in this place the foreign products that arrive from different points of the geography are sold. In this place clothes, footwear or accessories can be found, as well as traditional Basque costumes or tools. Artisans and local producers continue to be the key role, the one that justifies the existence of a market with centuries of history that attracts both neighbours and tourists.

A celebration of something characteristic

The Tolosa market is more than just a market: it is the cultural heritage of the Basque Country. Because of its history, because it is a meeting point for the inhabitants of the city and because it keeps focusing on the local, on what is its own.

It is a celebration of all this, of gastronomy and culture, in the best possible atmosphere where you can enjoy flavours, aromas and colours of all kinds. To discover it more in-depth, you can bet on a guided tour that goes through its history and all its corners. A must on any visit to the province of Gipuzkoa.

Article made in collaboration with Turismo de Tolosa

Zegama, Guipuzkoa

Among the hidden villages in the Basque mountains, Zerain is one of those small and cozy where nature overwhelms. In the Goierri region, it has managed to preserve all the charm of the traditional Basque rural atmosphere. In addition to its magnificent church of San Martín de Tours, the town hall and its mill, the main attraction is the royal road that, crossing the spectacular 'Túnel de San Adrían', goes through the mountain range of the natural park of Aitzkorri, penetrating into Álava.

Elorrio, Bizkaia

Elorrio is possibly the most monumental village in Bizkaia. It is located near Durango, in the valley of Duranguesado. Its position is surrounded by mountains and is crossed by the river Zumelegi and several streams. Its historic center concentrates a very interesting palatial architecture, stone crosses, and buildings as important as its church and town hall. Among many other attractions, on the outskirts is the interesting necropolis of Argiñeta and its hermitage of San Adrian, a unique and unforgettable place.

Orduña, Bizkaia

Orduña is a town that lives in the shelter of the Sierra Salvada, forming a curious Biscayan enclave surrounded by territories of Alava and Burgos. It is worth mentioning its medieval quarter, which houses both religious and civil monuments. A visit to the fortified enclosure and walls, the Church of Santa María, Palacio Ortés de Velasco, La Aduana and the Txarlazo monument is a must. Nearby, in the natural area of Monte de Santiago in Burgos, is the spectacular waterfall of the Nervión.

Leintz-Gatzaga, Gipuzkoa

The beautiful and well-preserved village of Leintz Gatzaga (Salinas de Léniz) is in the complicated mountain pass of Gatzaga - Arlabán. It was an indispensable resting place for trade in past centuries; it was also an important salt producer due to the nearby salt spring. Nowadays, only lovers of special places that deviate from the highway travel there. In addition, it still preserves its medieval air, with ashlar stone houses and coats of arms dating from 1371.

Quejana - Kexaa, Alava - Araba

This tiny village in the Ayala valley, squeezed between mountains, is one of the least accessible in the Cantabrian mountain range, with only a narrow access road. Its glorious past is evident from the palace and other buildings it houses, built by the powerful Ayala lineage, which gave great rulers to the Hispanic monarchy. Through the domains of this family passed - some kilometers to the south of this place - one of the main mercantile routes of the peninsula, the one that united Burgos with the port of Bilbao.

Oñati, Gipuzkoa

The painter Ignacio Zuloaga gave the name 'the Basque Toledo' to the last of our villages hidden in the Basque mountains, which gives an idea of the magnificence of the architecture of this place. It has a very curious history, as it came to have an important university, was a medieval manor in the egalitarian Gipuzkoa and was the place where the First Carlist War actually ended. In spite of its isolation it is a very prosperous town, being usual that it is the one with the lowest unemployment rate in Spain. Located at the foot of the Aizkorri Natural Park, it is a great starting point for hikers.

Arantzazu Sanctuary, Gipuzkoa

Although strictu sensu it is not one of the hidden villages in the Basque mountains, since we have reached Oñati we cannot resist recommend following the winding road that climbs up the mountain along the cliff over the river. This road is dotted with small chapels, figures of virgins, etc., which introduce us to the religious atmosphere of the place. Through it we will reach a large square, which is partly used as a parking lot, from which we will see the impressive main facade of the so-called 'sanctuary of contemporary art' by the avant-garde architectural forms and its imposing facades, sculptures and doors. A unique place with which to end this recommendation of hidden villages in the Basque mountains.

Belaustegi waterfall, in the heart of Gorbeia Natural Park

The natural environment and the surroundings of the Belaustegi waterfall are a real gem, located a few kilometers from Bilbao, in the Gorbeia Natural Park. A reference point for Basque. It is common to enjoy a full weekend touring the area due to its many tourist attractions.

In particular, the Belaustegi waterfall and beech forest, the sought-after 19th century Gorbeia Cross in homage to Jesus Christ the Redeemer, the Itxina Protected Biotope and the Gujuli waterfall stand out. A short distance from Sarria, is a place full of beech, oak, pine forests and spectacular rock formations. It stands out for its farmhouses and forges, very typical of the rural architecture of the area.

Also, it home to endangered species in the Basque Country, such as the otter, the dipper and the deer. It has two visitor centers to learn more about the area, its flora and fauna. The Parketxe de Sarria and the Parketxe de Areatza. It is advisable to visit at least one of them to learn about the context of the area. An environment known for its legends related to lamias and witches, popular in Basque mythology.

The Belaustegi waterfall is one of the essential places to visit when in the area, ideal to enjoy with the family thanks to its low-difficulty access. An adventure in nature that both children and adults will enjoy to the fullest.

Route to the Belaustegi waterfall

The route that leads to the Belaustegi waterfall has little difficulty and includes a three-kilometer route from the Belaustegi parking lot, a 30-minute round trip. It is the easiest route, ideal for families, even with small children, if you are not used to hiking in the mountains.

When arriving in Orozko, it is necessary to drive along the Orozko-Areatza road up to the neighborhood of Ibarra, where it is necessary to turn right towards the neighborhood of Usabel. When you get there, just take the detour to the left to finish the journey by car in the parking lot. It is time to enjoy walking in the nature of the place. In front of the parking lot is the beginning of a concrete track, just at the beginning there is a path through a pine forest. This old path is the way to follow until you reach a stream, is not very well signposted, but be guided by the river water and the footsteps of the hikers is enough.

The route to the river is one of the natural jewels that we find in the area. It is the Belaustegi beech forest, one of the most important beech forests in Spain. Along the stream it only takes a few minutes following its course to reach the great waterfall. The route is a real adventure, as it is not signposted it is normal for visitors to get lost sometimes, but it is only important to reach the river to find the waterfall. Contemplating the pine forest area and nature in its purest state is one of the great attractions of the place.

The best thing about this route to the waterfall and the beech forest is that it is an excellent option at any time of the year, although there are special times such as autumn and spring. For example, in the autumn months the fog is present along the trail, creating a romantic landscape. On the other hand, in the spring and summer months the colors are more vivid.

Route of the Majadas of Austigarmin

The natural environment next to the waterfall has as many tourist attractions and routes. The short trail through the Belaustegi beech forest leaves visitors wanting to explore the area even more. Fortunately, there is still a lot to see. Returning to the parking lot, another hiking route leaves in the direction of the Majadas de Austigarmin, a 2-hour round trip of low difficulty. The ascent is easy and is well signed, so you can't get lost.

During the route, the flora and fauna are of great importance. Going through the green meadows of the area it is common to find pottokas, a very typical Basque pony in the fauna of Euskadi, grazing in freedom. The rocky backdrop of the Itzina mountain and the beech forests along the road accompany us to the end of the route.

Once in the Majadas de Austigarmin it is time to enjoy this large open area with green meadows and peculiar rock formations. Also, it houses several huts next to the rocks, a place where the shepherds of Gorbeia sheltered to take care of their livestock. It is a perfect area to enjoy a picnic surrounded by nature and a magical environment. It is important to pick up the trash to maintain this paradise of Euskadi. For that, in the parking is possible to dispose of this in the garbage cans.

Getting lost in these natural treasures is a pleasure for nature lovers. It is considered one of the most beautiful environments in Euskadi and one of the main points of interest when visiting the Gorbeia Natural Park.

A bit of history of the Otzarreta beech forest

It is located in the well-known Gorbeia Natural Park, in the territories of Alava and Bizkaia. The Otzarreta beech forest is a protected area, the largest in the Basque Country. It also has the highest peak, Mount Gorbea at 1,481 metres. Crowned with the metal cross, it offers visitors impressive views of the area's ecosystem. A must visit on a route through the most fascinating natural places in Spain.

The magical feeling provided by the surroundings is also reflected in its vegetation. The curious thing about the Otzarreta forest is that its beech trees grow in a way that is unusual for this type of tree. Its branches grow upwards when in this species they normally grow horizontally.

Nowadays, the beech forest is protected, but years ago these peculiar branches were cut down. The aim was none other than to obtain coal by burning the branches that came out of the trunk. It was an activity that was traditionally carried out in the area, but has now been stopped to make way for an exhibition of nature in its purest form.

The keys of the Otzarreta forest

The views in this forest are so awesome that it seems as if everything has been designed to measure. A visual spectacle led by the green of the moss on the bark of the trees. An orange colour can be seen on the ground in autumn when the beech trees change their cover. And the impressive stream of the Zubizabala river offers a deep blue color that snakes through the trees. A Basque legend has it that it is in this territory that the mythical Basajaun lives.

It is a legend that has passed from generation to generation. The footsteps of Basajun can still be felt today in the moist soil that forms in this beech forest. And it is not surprising that the sound echoes through the mountains, as it is a giant being. He is known as the lord of the Basque forests and that is his mission, to protect nature above all else. Much has been written about him. Most references say that he is a terrifying being, although his mission is to help anyone who finds themselves lost in the forest.

Places near Otzarreta forest

Very close to this Weekend Getaway is the Saldropo wetland in Zeanuri. An ideal place for anyone who wants to go on a route and also be in contact with nature. From this circular walk that starts and ends at the car park, you can see the Gorbeia massif. It also has a picnic area and barbecue as a finishing touch to enjoy the full experience of visiting this striking location.

Although it is not the only hiking route that you can do in the Basque Country, this area is full of activities to do by bike, on foot or however you prefer. If you'd rather go on more conventional tourism, there are other options. It is also surrounded by charming towns where you can enjoy their folklore, such as Ceberio, Artea or Zigoitia.

To reach this location by car, take the N-240 road to the municipality of Legutio. At the top of Barazar there is a concrete path at kilometre 38 on which you can read "Parque Natural de Gorbea" on a sign. Follow this path until you take the turning on the left. After this, go straight ahead and you will find the car park.

A magical scenery of legends, that is why it is our Weekend Getaway

A postcard straight out of a fairy tale, this is the landscape offered by this enchanting forest in Bizkaia, the cradle of the legend of Basajaun. A concert of feelings. From the green and orange colours that dress every corner of the forest, to the sounds of nature such as the Zubizabala stream or the birds singing, and the characteristic aroma of nature that the Otzarreta beech forest offers.

Ramón Rubial Botanical Garden (Barakaldo)

 Alderdi Eder Gardens (San Sebastián)

Miramar  Gardens (San Sebastián)

Iturraran Botanical Garden (Zarautz)

Santa Catalina Botanical Garden (Trespuentes, Álava)

The last of Euskadi gardens surrounds a 13th century monastery, which gives it its name. Located in the town of Trespuentes (Álava) at an altitude of 600 meters, it has a thousand species from five continents and the perfect conditions for them to grow. It also holds exhibitions on beekeeping and courses on recognizing birds and medicinal plants.

Beaches

The Basque coast consists of over 175 kilometers of incredible beaches and cliffs, encompassing the beaches of Bizkaia as well as Gipuzkoa, including Plentzia, Zumaia, and Menakoz. If you want to take photos that look like something out of a romance movie, this is the perfect place for it. The most rugged and untamed beaches, surrounded by nature and intense waves, as well as the beaches near the cities are spaces worth being photographed. If you’re a beach lover, a visit to the Basque Country is a must: you can’t miss it.

Surfing

Continuing along the coast, the Basque Country is a surfer’s paradise. The strong waves of the Cantabrian Sea and the wind make it the perfect place for surfing. If you want to reenact scenes from movies like Chasing Mavericks, Blue Horizon, and Point Break, you can do it by taking movie-worthy photos on these beaches. The beaches of Mundaka and Zarautz are a couple of them.

Culture

The Basque Country has become a standard bearer in the realms of art and culture. Basque culture is a defining feature of the region. Artists such as Oteiza and Chillida have chosen to install works in coastal Basque cities like San Sebastián. Here you can take gorgeous movie-worthy photos to capture the artistic spirit of the Basque Country.

Cliffs

One defining characteristic of Spain’s northern coast is its impressive cliffs. The Basque Country is part of this treasured northern part of the country. Here you can experience nature in its purest state, the wind crashing against the walls of rock. If you’re looking for the best landscapes to take movie-worthy photos, cliffs like the ones in Azkorri are some of your finest options.

Religion

Spirituality and religious tradition are closely linked with Basque history. You can find severalchurches along the shore. Take advantage of the photo ops of these religious sites’ walls, symbology, and history and the emotions that these places evoke. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and San Telmo Shrine, in Zumaia, are a couple examples.

Villages and traditions

The villages on the coast will allow you to take some charming movie-worthy photos. The Basque Country’s architecture is quite unique, as are its traditions. Fishing towns, arts and crafts, regional sports…you’ll never get bored. In addition, these are perfect places to chat with the locals and get to know the authentic essence of the Basque Country. Elantxobe and Getaria are some of our recommendations.

A Steep Cliff, a Strategic Path, and Customs

History of Orduña

Orduña was of interest because it is located in a fertile valley that contains the shortest path between the plateau and the ports of Bermeo and Portugalete. It was accessible through a road (only suitable for cavalry, not for cars) that went around the steep Peña de Orduña, a mountain port with 900 meters of altitude with a drop of 9% in many areas, down to the 298 meters of the valley plain. This road was dangerous when the terrain was dry and impracticable the rest of the time. In spite of everything, it was used to transport Castilian wool that was exported to the north of Europe and to the South, where bars of iron and Basque weapons were transported alongside travelers and luxury products from Europe.

During the time of Juan II of Castile, the commercial activity and customs increased until 1467. It received the title of "city" from King Enrique IV, thus being the first and only Vizcaya villa to have this title. It was given by Enrique IV to the Ayala family, who retained it until the Catholic monarchs recovered it by force. The residents of the city would come to buy the castle and make sure that they did not fall back under the power of feudal lords.

In 1535, a large fire devastated the city, reducing the majority of its heritage to rubble and ashes. Still, Orduña was able to back restore its previous position.

In the mid-sixteenth century, the authorities of the estates of Biscay, together with those of Orduña and Bilbao, pushed for the opening of a royal road (suitable for wagons) to the port of Orduña. The authorities of Navarra and Guipúzcoa attempted to disrupt this project that jeopardized their trade routes. Meanwhile, the Alaves destroyed the advances at night that were made by the workers during the day. Finally, the emperor Carlos V suspended the project on May 17, 1553.

In March 1686, the Bizkaia authorities got the authorization to widen the road by the port of Orduña, facilitating the traffic of goods. In 1774,  its commercial relevance intensified to the point that, between the reigns of Charles III and Charles IV, an important commercial customs port was built there. It began to be operative starting in 1792.

In 1870, they created a school that was later transformed into boarding school, where students studied from the ruling class of the Basque. The Jesuits who managed it complained about the atmosphere there, saying: "Orduña, a great city with ten bars and no bookshop".

At the beginning of the twentieth century, the city worked to entice visitors to the Balneario de la Muera. At the beginning of the 21st century, the former customs office had been converted into a modern spa hotel, a symbolic closure to its commercial past.

Things to Do in Orduña

Outside the walls are the Convents of San Francisco (16th century) and Santa Clara, as well as the neoclassical shrine of Nuestra Señora de la Antigua (18th century), annexed to a convent of nuns. It should be noted that the Txarlazo Monument, which honors the Virgin of La Antigua, is one of the first monuments in Spain built completely in concrete.

The Essentials

Important Information

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 59′ 45″ N, 3° 0′ 30″ W

Distances

40 km from Bilbao, 126 km from Donostia-San Sebastián, 373 km from Madrid

Parking

In the Plaza of Gernika

Altitude

293 m

Inhabitants

4,246 (2013)

CELEBRATIONS

ARTISANS AND SHOPS

Other nearby destinations

From the Glorious Industrial Past to the Gastronomy

Planning your Trip to Llodio

History of Llodio

Things to Do in Llodio

The urban nucleus of Llodio, defined by the Nervión River, is centered around the Herriko Plaza, closed off by all its sides except for one. At one end stands the Church of San Pedro de Lamuza, from the middle of the 17th century. The slender baroque tower is highlighted. Forming part of the square and perfectly integrated in its structure is the City Hall, although on this side there are no arcades that characterize it.

The Basque Museum of Gastronomy is located in the Casona Zubiko Etxea. This institution explains in an effective and entertaining way, questions about the trajectory of the main dishes, the utensils and appliances used for cooking, the community demonstrations of cooking, and meetings among the gastronomic societies, such as the Pintxos phenomenon, among others.

Within the city limits, visitors can relax in the Lamuza Park, which previously were the gardens of the Marqués de Urquijo estate. They are a pleasant natural extension where the Aldaia stream runs through, that houses a great variety of vegetal species. The ensemble is completed with the old Palace of the Urquijo (now House of Culture) and other architectural elements and landscaping, such as the Casino, a pond and a ashlar stone construction.

Beyond the park, on the left bank of the Lamuza River, lies, in the district of Ugarte, a Gothic medieval tower house erected in the 15th century. It has the exceptionality of being the only one left standing of the ten that should have been in the locality in the Middle Ages. The structure of the tower, with a ground floor and three additional stories, is attached to a second building known as the "Palace".

Among the local houses, the Palacio Katuxa (second half of the 18th century), a large noble residence erected in Ashlar Stone on top of where a tower house was destroyed by a fire, is particularly striking. The palace, built by Pedro Antonio de Ugarte, has an ashlar facade of harmonious composition, with the ground floor preceded by a large portico. Another notable example is the Anuntzibai Palace, commissioned by the Marquis of Falces in the 18th century. Beside it is the bridge with the same name, which connected the house-tower, the foundry, and the mill with the Hermitage of San Miguel, located on the left bank of the Nervión and also part of the ensemble. The bridge is guarded by two stone lions at one end, and at the other end is a cover topped with a beautiful tympana ordeal.

The Roman past is another one of the things that must be seen in Llodio, such as the remains of the Bridge of Vitórica on the Nervión River, where only an arc is preserved. The structure underwent transformations in the Middle Ages and was practically eliminated as a result of the terrible floods that occurred in 1983.

The Essentials

Important Information

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Coordinates

43° 9′ 4″ N, 2° 57′ 22″ W

Distances

52 km from Vitoria-Gasteiz, 22 km from Bilbao, 385 km from Madrid

Parking

Avenue of Zumalacárregui

Altitude

132 m

Inhabitants

18,510 (2013)

CELEBRATIONS

OTHER EVENTS

Other nearby destinations