The river Cidacos comes from its neighbouring village Arnedo and flows into the river Ebro. Quel is very well located to make routes by the nearby park of Peñas de Arnedillo, Peñalmonte and Peña Isasa or to visit Calahorra. Dinosaur enthusiasts can travel south to Enciso to take the "route of the dinosaurs".

The castle of Quel

The castle of Quel is located next to the town centre on the heights of the vertical Peña de Quel. There is no certainty about the origin of this ancient fortress, of Arab or Roman origin, but whose current remains date from the 15th century, between 1470 and 1480. Between 2010 and 2012 the Town Hall of Quel carried out rehabilitation and recovery works. During the excavations several archaeological fragments were found, such as plates, jugs and pitchers. Also an arrowhead and several coins from the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. It should be noted that the visit is free and can be reached both on foot and by car.

Its rectangular, three-storey, homage tower, which served as a watchtower over the entire Cidacos valley, is particularly noteworthy. Two square towers were used for adarve and battlements. The first floor of the central tower housed the private rooms where they slept and kept their valuables. Meanwhile, the second floor was known as the weapons room and stored armorial bearings or crossbows. Finally there is the third floor, which was used as a kitchen and a temporary room for the members of the garrison.

Peña de Quel

One of the main attractions of the castle of Quel are the beautiful views both towards the river Ebro from the back of the castle. The views of the Cidacos valley are also remarkable. With these views it is not surprising that in the past they were used to communicate in case of danger with other nearby fortresses, such as the castle of Autol and the castle of Arnedo. From the Cidacos viewpoint we can contemplate an impressive perspective of the town, where we can see the Barrio Bodegas or the Santo Cristo de la Transfiguración hermitage.

 Bread and Cheese Festival

The tradition of Bread and Cheese has been celebrated every August 6th for more than 500 years. The origin of this festival dates back to 1479, when the plague epidemic of that year took the lives of most of the inhabitants of the town. Only 17 of the 50 residents survived. The survivors made a procession from the church to the hermitage with thirteen candles, representing 11 saints, the Virgin Mary and the Holy Christ. After the procession, the death from the plague ended. It is said that only two or three more neighbors died. This fact was attributed to a divine miracle. In gratitude, a brotherhood was founded that commemorates the procession annually.

The pilgrimage culminates with a lunch of bread, wine and cheese for the 13 members of the Brotherhood at the hermitage. From the balcony, they share with the rest of the neighbours the throwing of Bread and Cheese. Quantities thrown from the hermitage are not negligible, as they usually reach 2,500 portions of bread and about 60 kilos of cheese.

These events are held from 5 to 10 August and have more followers every year. The tradition of Bread and Cheese has had the category of Regional Tourist Interest since 2004 and in February 2015 it was declared a festival of National Tourist Interest.

Hermitage of El Cristo de la Transfiguración in Quel

The hermitage of El Cristo de la Transfiguración de Quel was built in the 18th century in brick, following the baroque fashion. It consists of a nave with five sections and an octagonal head. Its semicircular arches and groin vaults contrast with the barrel vault in the first section and the flared vault in the chancel. Among its artistic treasures is the image of the patron saint, the Resurrected Christ, from the 17th century. Also outstanding is the crucifix, which dates from the 18th century and has a Baroque style.

From one of the side façades of the Cristo de la Transfiguración hermitage the traditional distribution of Bread and Cheese is carried out, which is the biggest celebration in this village. Years ago it was fitted out to host the main landmark of the festival, as well as improving the surrounding green areas.

Barrio de Las Bodegas

There are various routes through La Rioja based on its wine, one of the best known in the country. The Barrio de las Bodegas is associated with this aspect of the region. It is located outside the town centre, on the right bank of the River Cidacos. On the hillside, a series of family wine-caves were built by digging in the terrain. A tradition that can be seen from Guadalajara to the Sacromonte of Granada. In this way, ideal environmental and temperature conditions were achieved for the production and conservation of the wine.

Manuel Bretón de los Herreros (1796-1873), a Quelian playwright, said that "in his Quel there were as many wineries as there were neighbours". A walk through this district reveals the wisdom of the writer's words.

Greenway of El Cidacos

34 kilometres long, this greenway starts in Calahorra and ends in Arnedillo. It runs along the old narrow gauge railway track; passing through the villages of Autol, Quel, Arnedo, Herce, Santa Eulalia and Préjano. It is a splendid and healthy hiking route that follows the route of the Cidacos River, which allows you to enjoy one of the natural parks of La Rioja.

It is of an easy level of difficulty that allows the route to be done on foot, by bike or on horseback. This green route connects with the Préjano Greenway and the Ebro Nature Trail GR.99. The road surface is mixed, varying between asphalt and compacted gravel.

El Salvador Church

Finally, among the points of interest to be seen in Quel should be included the Church of El Salvador. This late Gothic building is located next to the town hall. It maintains Renaissance elements but the most outstanding of its figures is the main wooden altarpiece. It contrasts its baroque style in the attic and classicist in the body. In the 18th century the sacristy and the main body of the tower were built.

From this church the procession of the Brotherhood of La Transfiguración de Quel starts every 6th of August. Part of the most typical festival of this Riojan town, as has been said, ends in the chapel with the throwing of Bread and Cheese.

Useful information

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 13′ 44″ N, 2° 02′ 59″ W

Distances

Logroño 50,8 km. Madrid 313 km.

Parking

Except during the festivities, there is no parking problem in the town centre.

Elevation

492 metres.

Inhabitants

2.011 inhabitants (2017).

FESTIVITIES

Arnedillo, the perfect mix of nature and stone houses in La Rioja

In the village of Arnedillo, located between the mountain ranges of Hez and Peñalmonte, not only is a visit to the interior of its streets a must, but it also has one of the most spectacular panoramic views of La Rioja. This village is built in a privileged mountainous area and follows the silhouette of the Cidacos River, becoming a perfect mix between nature and stone houses. However, it is in its interior where you can find its greatest architectural attraction: the Church of San Servando and San Germán, built in the 16th century.

Cornago

Cornago is one of the most charming and interesting medieval villages in the region. Built around the morphology of a hill, this village has managed to go through the years maintaining its historical spirit and preserving one of its main attractions: its castle. Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest and built in the 14th century, its layout makes it seem that the houses are superimposed on each other. The fortress crowns the top of Cornago, next to the Church of San Pedro, also of great historical interest.

Ezcaray, charming streets in La Rioja

Ezcaray is one of the towns with more history in La Rioja. Thus, in 1998 it was the first place in the community declared Municipality of Tourist Interest. This charming village, located next to the river Oja, has a privileged location, as it is very close to Logroño and is the closest village to the ski resort of Valdezcaray. Within its streets stands out the Church of Santa María la Mayor, of Gothic style and turned into one of the most visited places in the village.

Calahorra

This town is one of the most remarkable to see in La Rioja Baja. Formerly this area was considered one of the most important and largest orchards in Spain. That is why, in honor of this Romanesque period, the Vegetable Museum has been created and the gastronomic legacy of the whole region is carefully preserved. Its cathedral is one of the must-see sites, in addition to many others. As a curiosity, here took place a war episode known as fames calagurritana, in which the citizens preferred to die of hunger rather than surrender.

Navarrete, the essence of La Rioja

This town is one of those that best represents, within the list, the classic Rioja essence, having many of the vineyards that give their name to the famous wine. Also, Navarrete is one of the must stops on the Way to Santiago and every year thousands of pilgrims pass through its streets. In its interior, you can enjoy its well-preserved historic center, which in 1970 was named as an Asset of Cultural Interest. You should also visit the old Hospital of San Juan de Acre or the Church of the Assumption. It is also the town of the television character Paquita Salas.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

This particular village borders the province of Burgos and corresponds to the eighth municipality in all of La Rioja. Located near the Oja River, Santo Domingo de la Calzada has gained great relevance in the area for its medieval legacy. It was precisely its old hospital, dating from the 12th century, which promoted the Jacobean route and put the town on the map in the Middle Ages. From that period, some traces remain in its cathedral and its wall, which has become an obligatory stop for all walkers on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Nájera

Less than 30 kilometers from Logroño you can find another of the most picturesque and illustrious towns in the entire La Rioja region. Nájera has a charming set of streets through which to get lost and discover its essence. This town is another of the places of passage within the Way to Santiago and has a strategic location between cliffs that give it a special character. In addition, in its Pantheon, the remains of important figures of its past are preserved, such as the Dukes of Nájera or Blanca de Navarra.

San Vicente de la Sonsierra, an impressive caslte in La Rioja

Located near the Ebro River, this small town has its origins in the tenth century, when it was built as a strategic fort for the defense of the Navarrese people next to the Castle of Davalillo. Precisely its location, in the heart of the Sonsierra region, makes it a town with privileged views. Within its historic center, it is essential to visit the Basilica of Santa María de la Piscina, as well as to walk the Roman bridge and discover the mixture of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Briones

Briones is one of the villages that best reflects the typical character of La Rioja and its importance in the world of oenology. It has become, thanks to the passage of time and national recognition, one of the essential villages of La Rioja Alta. In addition to the value of its vineyards, Briones has been named an Asset of Cultural Interest due to its great contribution in the artistic and cultural fields. The Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, in Gothic style, is an example of this.

San Millán de la Cogolla

This is one of the most relevant and interesting towns in La Rioja. San Millán de la Cogolla not only has a spectacular setting thanks to its proximity to the Iberian System, in the valley of the river Cardenas, but it has also been an essential place for the development of the Castilian language. Its history dates back to the 11th century, when it became a point of cultural interest thanks to the construction of its two great monasteries, Suso and Yuso. Both were part of the route of the Castilian language and were inhabited by the great poet Gonzalo de Berceo.

Sajazarra

Sajazarra is a village that is striking for the layout of its streets and its aesthetics, which transports the traveler to the 10th century. In addition to its striking historic center, the village has become the gateway to the natural environment of the area, with dozens of routes and trails ideal for all nature lovers. In addition, its castle is used today as a winery and is considered one of the best in the area.

It has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site and is on the Unesco Indicative List under the heading Cultural Landscape of the vineyards and wine of La Rioja and Rioja Alavesa. It is also important to note that the village has a Tourist Office, so it is advisable to start your visit there so that you know what to see and in what order.

The Plaza de España: a faithful reflection of the history of Briones

The only square in Briones, given that it is a very small village, is the Plaza de España. It is triangular in shape and is the setting for the medieval days and other village festivals. The Palacio del Marqués de San Nicolás (Palace of the Marquis of San Nicolás), which is now the Town Hall, stands out here, inside which you can see La Casa Encantada (The Enchanted House). Its façade is in the same style as the hermitage of San Juan, mentioned below.

Speaking of The Enchanted House, it is an ethnographic museum where you can see how the inhabitants of the area lived between the 18th and 20th centuries. Among the objects that can be seen are tiles, kitchen utensils, beds, washbasins, chamber pots and cradles.

In the same Plaza de España you will also find La Casona, which is considered the oldest civil house in La Rioja, dating from the 16th century. Its two storeys of ashlar and brick are impressive to look at from the outside, but its main drawback is that it is not possible to visit the inside.

The 18th-century Arches House is also located in the Plaza de España. It is notable for its semicircular arches with their corresponding arcades, which are the same despite the fact that the building's façade is not uniform. This is a perfect place to sit on a terrace to eat or have a drink while looking at the wonders of this square.

Briones is a small village with a great church

Finally, inside this square, you will find the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, the largest religious building in Briones. This church is in Elizabethan Gothic style and has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. It dates from the 16th century, is built in ashlar masonry and has an outstanding bell tower in the Rioja style.

On the outside you can also see the Renaissance façade with motifs of the Assumption and the Coronation of Mary. When you look inside, you will be struck by how immense this church is, located in a village as small as Briones. It has three naves with star-shaped domes. The choir, the organ, the altarpieces and the sacristy are some of the elements that can be seen. The chapels include the chapels of the Ircio, Perea, Tenorio and Juan de Castrejana. As for the altarpieces, in addition to the altarpiece of the High Altar, you can see the altarpiece of San Sebastián, the altarpiece of Santa Bárbara and the altarpiece of Santiago, all in the Baroque style.

More palaces and a very Riojan chapel

In addition to the Palace of the Marquis of San Nicolás, another interesting palace is the Palace of the Quincoces, which is located a few metres from the first one, specifically in Bergareche Street. It is believed that it was in this building that Henry II of Castile and Charles II of Navarre met to arrange the marriage of their children. Next to the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is also the Palace of the Gadea family. It dates from the 18th century and remains in a perfect state of conservation.

Another of Briones' main attractions is the Hermitage of Cristo de los Remedios, an example of 18th-century Riojan stonework. It is circular in shape and has a sculpture of San Juan Bautista on its façade. It can also be visited on the inside, where you can see rococo style altarpieces, but it is not always open.

The corners that defended Briones from attacks

Of the six access gates to the old medieval town of Briones, only two remain. The Puerta de la Media Luna and the Puerta de la Villa, which are integrated in parts of the wall that are still standing. Passing through them, one can imagine how difficult it must have been to conquer this medieval town. These are two charming and very photographable spots.

On the other hand, the so-called Briones Castle is actually a ruined keep that can be climbed up a spiral metal staircase. It was the highest tower on the wall, so from the top you can enjoy spectacular views of the Sierra de Toloño. This tower is in ruins due to the destruction ordered by Ferdinand II of Castile and a subsequent collapse in the 1940s. Another place from which there is a very complete panoramic view is the Cercas de la Cuarentena, so called because a bishop granted 40 days of indulgence for praying to the virgins of the hermitages that could be seen from this place.

Finally, of course, you can complete your trip to Briones with a visit to one of its wineries. In a region famous worldwide for its wine, a visit to the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture is also a must. In short, Briones is a small medieval village, but with a lot of history to tell.

This is one of the most unknown architectural jewels of La Rioja. Its magnificent views of the vineyard environment, its good state of preservation and the beautiful landscapes of the town of San Asensio make it worth discovering this medieval jewel.

From an imposing medieval fortress to a ruin of the past

The origin of the castle of Davalillo is uncertain, since the exact date of its construction is unknown, although it is placed between the late 12th and early 13th century. What is clear is that it was built after 1117, since it does not appear in the list of border castles made at the request of the English parliament by Sancho VII.

It had the objective of protecting Castile, together with the neighboring fortress of Briones, from the frequent Navarrese attacks. It was very useful since from its height the lands of La Rioja Alta and Sonsierra could be seen. In fact, it played a fundamental role and had great moments of glory thanks to the fact that it served as a support in the numerous battles between the Rioja and Navarrese armies.

It was built in the old village of Davalillo, which disappeared at the end of the Middle Ages due to the growth of the town of San Asensio, to which it now belongs. The decline of the village began after the war between Pedro I and Enrique II, as La Rioja began to fragment into lordships. As a curiosity, a popular legend tells that it was actually a plague of scorpions that completely annihilated the population. Whether it is true or not, it is common to see these specimens in the summer months.

Today, it is one of the few Romanesque castles still standing on the peninsula. For years it was abandoned, although it was recently acquired by CVNE (a wine company of northern Spain), who is now in charge of its conservation. Despite being in ruins and not being able to visit its interior, it can still feel like a medieval lookout.

The ins and outs of this architectural treasure of the Romanesque period

Despite the fact that only the remains of the Romanesque chapel and the keep are preserved inside, the remains of this imposing castle are still able to show the importance it had in the past. The fortress of Davalillo stands out for its heptagonal plan, whose architecture is reinforced by towers at the corners. It was built entirely of ashlar stone. It has two access doors. The main one had a pointed arch and was protected by two cubes. Meanwhile, the second was used to access the second floor and the rest of the heights.

Particularly imposing is the keep with a square floor plan and four floors high, covered with a pointed barrel vault. The first floor houses the chapel, illuminated by three loopholes. On the exterior it is possible to observe the remains of a wall that could have been the fence that protected the town of Davalillo.

Strategic location of the castle of Davalillo to enjoy its surroundings

The strategic location of the castle of Davalillo is ideal for enjoying the surroundings of this area of La Rioja, with a large number of tourist attractions. Next to the hill of the fortress is the hermitage of Nuestra Señora de Davalillo. Although renovated, there are remains that indicate that it belonged to the old town.

San Asensio is strongly linked to the hermitage and the castle. For this reason, twice a year two pilgrimages are held in this place, both very lively festivities and with very interesting traditions. In them, the Virgin is carried in procession accompanied by dancers in order to protect the fields for the harvest of fruits.

For hiking lovers, there is the popular Wine Route that connects the Sonsierra Riojana and Briones with San Asensio. The difficulty is low, suitable for all ages and has a distance of about four and a half kilometers. The route starts at the Santo Cristo chapel in Briones in the direction of the Plaza de España.

Then, you have to go down Estación street until you reach the N-232 and turn right. Once at the railroad station, cross the tracks and follow the marked path. This part of the route crosses Riojan vineyards in the area until it reaches the Valpierre stream and ends at the old mining road. Finally, just walk along the path until you reach the popular hermitage of San Juan and turn left, leaving the main path to reach the castle of Davalillo.

Before starting the hiking route it is advisable to visit the village of Briones. It is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. Declared a Historic-Artistic Site for its medieval layout, it is recognized by UNESCO itself. This comes from being part of the "Cultural Landscape of the vineyard and wine of La Rioja and Rioja Alavesa".

The lagoons of Urbión, of world importance

One of the most important wetlands in the world, these lagoons are the result of a glaciation that occurred more than 20,000 years ago. Every spring, with the thawing of the Riojan mountains, this set of lagoons, with crystalline waters, shine with their own light. They do so between hiking routes for the whole family, carrying a glacial past that is worth discovering. La Rioja is a historic region, in every sense of the word.

The caves of the Hundred Pillars, an ancestral home

The Cidacos Valley, where these caves are located, can be surprising from the very first moment. If the traveler is also encouraged to discover what lies beneath the Cerro de San Miguel, he will leave the place with the feeling of having seen something unique. The caves of the Hundred Pillars, a set of galleries and rooms through which it is possible to walk, were excavated during the Middle Ages. It was at this time when the inhabitants of the valleys of the area were forced to seek refuge under the mountain.

The monastery of Valvanera, hidden by the nature of La Rioja

As if nature itself knew that this monastery must eternally be a haven of peace, it hinders access to it and hides its existence. With centuries of antiquity, this monastery of Valvanera is a must visit. It also offers some dreamlike landscapes nearby. The area has a lot of history for the tourist. Also many legends, stories and, to conclude on a high note, a quiet visit, together with that nature that protects and fascinates.

The canyon of the Leza River, the overwhelming enclave of La Rioja

That's the feeling you get when you walk along the canyon of the Leza River: that the river that flows through it can overwhelm anything. The strength of its waters, coupled with the impressive 7-kilometer-long gorge that is this canyon, form a breathtaking landscape that impresses. In this mountain range of Cameros, in the southern part of La Rioja, there is nothing that does not cause this effect.

Villoslada de Cameros, the heart of the sierra

It is believed that this area, in the heart of the Sierra de Cebollera, has been inhabited since the 2nd century. Churches, hermitages and, in general, a beautiful medieval ensemble that, together with the natural park in which it is integrated, constitute a perfect enclave in which to spend a weekend. If possible, walking a good part of the time next to the Iregua River.

The waterfall of Puente Ra, a fairytale place in La Rioja

The Natural Park of the Sierra de Cebollera is a fairytale place. A perfect corner in which to get lost among forests, waterfalls and trails. In this sense, it is worth walking the paths that lead to the waterfall of Puente Ra calmly, without haste, without maps. Once you reach this enclave, you will understand why this place is so famous.

The Sendero de Las Neveras, history and culture

To take this route you have to enter another mountain range: the Moncalvillo mountain range, also owner of an exuberant nature. This particular trail, which begins in Sojuela, not only uncovers enchanting landscapes, but also speaks directly to the history and past culture of the region. Along 14 kilometers you will find four old snow deposits, which once served to supply the city of Logroño. This is undoubtedly one of the most important details to address when you are discovering the place: the history that has led it to be what it is. And La Rioja has a lot of history.

Origin of the Caves of Ortigosa

The Encinedo mountain originated approximately 160 million years ago, during the Jurassic. At an altitude of 1,073 metres, the mountain is covered with holm oaks and is the entrance to the present-day village of Ortigosa de Cameros. There is also a quarry here, now in disuse; where the entrances to the two caves are located.

It has a calcareous composition, which together with the climatic conditions and the effect of the ancient rivers, snow and filtered rain on the limestone, dissolving it, gave rise to the capricious structures of the caves of Ortigosa. Researchers believe that the river that flowed through the caves was the same one that currently crosses the village and runs under the bridge.

To reach the entrance to the caves, walk across the Hierro Bridge from the hermitage of Santa Lucía or follow the Escalerones path from the square in Ortigosa de Cameros.

Gruta de la Paz

Gruta de la Paz is one of the two caves prepared for visits to the caves of Ortigosa. It was discovered in 1964; when material was being extracted from the quarry for the construction of the González Lacasa reservoir. It is located in the upper part of the quarry and has two different entrances. In it, it is the largest gallery to visit, with a length of 236 metres. In order to visit the grotto, you have to descend five metres into the interior of the mountain; until you reach a horizontal path throughout the walk.

Inside the grotto of La Paz there are spectacular examples of the karst of the surrounding area. A succession of different examples of sedimentation: large columns, stalactites and stalagmites formed over thousands of years. Thus, the grotto is crossed by an imposing structural vein through which the water filters, giving rise to the aforementioned structures, as well as the samples known as flags, flakes…

Depending on the mineral with which the water is mixed, the structures get one colour or another, causing a multicoloured vision. Brown if the material is more clayey, white thanks to the calcium carbonate and yellow and orange when iron oxide predominates. To complete the visit, it is worth taking a look at the calcareous deposits that the underground water that was stagnant has left in the different levels where it covered the cave.

Gruta de la Viña

The grotto of La Viña is smaller than that of La Paz and has only one entrance and therefore functions as both an entrance and an exit. Also located in front of the quarry, the cave is 114 metres long and almost entirely horizontal. The cave is also notable for its white stalactite structures. This, together with the lighting and the size of the cave, attracts the attention of those who visit it, because in this silent cave time seems to stand still.

Archaeological remains from the Bronze Age have been discovered inside the cave, so researchers believe that it was once inhabited. It was first mapped in 1912, although the existence of a cave known as La Viña was already known in 1862. The visit to this cave is fascinating, where the stalactites join the stalagmites to form columns that give the impression of holding up the ceiling. During the tour it is recommended to look for shapes in the structures such as the seahorse, the turtle, the little dog, the bottle and the popcorn.

As a curiosity, both the grotto of La Paz and the grotto of La Viña are connected by a section that is not accessible to the public. However, some speleologists have managed to go 30 metres beyond the end adapted for visitors. They say that in the cave there is another small room in which there is a very white stalactite.

To visit the caves of Ortigosa it is necessary to take a guided tour. There are many galleries in the Encinedo massif; although only 13 are mapped and only these two are adapted for visits.

What to see in Ortigosa de Cameros

Ortigosa de Cameros is a small and charming village located in the region of Camero Nuevo, in La Rioja. The visit to the caves of Ortigosa can be completed with a walk around the town; where you can see the stone houses built into the mountain and its narrow streets. In summer it is possible to enjoy the nearby reservoir, where you can also practise water sports. It has a well-tended natural environment, with forests and crags.

The Hierro Bridge is the perfect spot from which to observe an incredible view of the town from a distance; although it is not suitable for those who suffer from vertigo. Built in 1910, the bridge links the park near the village with the caves of La Paz and La Viña.

However, one of the most characteristic images of Ortigosa de Cameros is that of the Hormigón bridge, which joins the neighbourhoods of San Martín, with its passages and slopes, and the neighbourhood of San Miguel. It is located 60 metres above the Albercos river.

Another place to see in Ortigosa de Cameros is the Casa Grande, built on a pentagonal plan. Dating from 1530, it is a building with outstanding images and inscriptions carved into its structure.

To complete the visit, there are several religious temples of interest. On the one hand, the church of San Martín, from the 16th century and built in ashlar and masonry. One of its strong points is its main altarpiece, a rococo style work. On the other hand, the church of San Miguel, also from the 16th century, is located at the entrance to Ortigosa de Cameros. The hermitage of Santa Lucía and the hermitage of San Felices are also located in the village.

*Main photo: Courtesy of the Town Council of ORTIGOSA and www.espeleofoto.com

More than wine

Plan your getaway to La Rioja

WHAT TO SEE IN LA RIOJA

FESTIVALS, PLACES TO STAY AND EAT IN LA RIOJA

It should't surprise you, the most important thing to see in La Rioja are its wineries with DO, in many of which you can also taste traditional dishes. One of the most important is Rioja style potatoes, which combine local products with DO such as Rioja chorizo and pepper, always with some good La Rioja oil.

Less popular is the bubbly drink par excellence: Cava de La Rioja. Other extraordinary raw materials in which the gastronomy of La Rioja is based are: the cauliflower of Calahorra, the pears of Rincón de Soto, and camerano cheese.

• Logroño. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Alfaro. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Arnedo. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Calahorra. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Enciso. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Ezcaray. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Haro. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Nájera. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• San Millán de la Cogolla. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Where to eat. Where to stay.
• Valdezcaray. Where to eat. Where to stay.

CRAFTS AND COLLECTIONS IN LA RIOJA

We have gathered the local artisans in the following pages: typical costumes, hats and headdresses, leather and leather, musical instruments, binding and paper, metal and wrought iron, candles and wax,wood and woodwork, soaps and perfumes, stone and stonework, basketry and vegetable fibers, jewelery workshops, figures in fallas, potters and potters.

The Birthplace of Castilian

The monumental compound of Can Millán of the Cogolla, made out of the Monastery of Suso and the Monastery of Yuso, is one of the principal heritage landmarks of La Rioja, not only for its artistic relevance but for its cultural importance to the Castilian language.

Planning Your Trip to San Millán of the Cogolla

Want to Get to Know this Place?

History of San Millán de la Cogolla

In the 6^th century, a pastor named Millán decided to embrace the aesthetic life and retire to a cave in the hills of the Sierra de la Demanda in La Rioja. With his death in 574, a monastery was erected in his honor next to the cave. Thus, the Monasterio de Suso (or the Monasterio de Arriba, in old Castilian) was born, one of the two buildings which, along with the Monasterio de Yuso (or the Monasterio de Abajo), comprises the compound of the Monasterio de San Millán de la Cogolla.

Since its construction, the Monasterio de Suso was favored among the Navarran rulers, who protected it and made it one of the most important Catholic centers in the North of the peninsula. So much was its fame that, in the beginning of the 11^th century, the building achieved the great honor of being an object of one of the last of the race of Almanzor, who would burn it in the year 1002.

Some years later, in 1053, the Navarran king García IV tried to move the relics to the monastery of Santa María de Real de Nájera in a wagon, leading to a miraculous event. The oxen could not move because of the weight of the load, which was interpreted as a sign that the relics should remain where they were. Therefore, a Romanesque building was erected where the wagon stood, which became the Monasterio de Yuso, which was completely remodeled during the 16^th and 17^th centuries. In turn, a small community began to form around this religious center, which is how the current village of San Millán de la Cogolla came to be. The monastery group was not in the Camino de Santiago, but it gained so much fame that it became an important stop along the route because the pilgrims would divert from the road to stand at its doors.

Until the year 1100, the monasteries coexisted: that of Suso attached to the Mozarabic rule and with a dual community (masculine and feminine), and that of Yuso, which adopted the rule of San Benito. After the 12^th century, only the Benedictine community remained, which had charge of the lower monastery. The years that followed were some of spiritual, religious, artistic, and cultural splendor. In fact, it is written in one of its many manuscripts, like El Apocalipsis of Beato de Liébana (8^th century), that this was one of the most important monasteries in the Spanish Middle Ages.

The Monastery of San Millán de la Cogolla is also considered to be the birthplace of the Castilian language. Here, the first testimony written in this language, the Glosas Emilianenses, was written here. This testimony is from the 11^th century, which is when Castilian began to be used as the new form of communication among the common people. Some time later, during the 13^th century, Gonzalo de Barceo, a cleric of the Monasterio de Suso, would contribute to the purification and codification of Castilian with his poetic works.

With the Desamortización de Mendizábal, the compound was abandoned, but a community of Augustine monks currently live in the new Monasterio de Yuso.

Things to Do in San Millán de la Cogolla

After its creation in 574, the Monasterio de Suso met with three styles; Visigoth, Mozarabic, and finally, Romanesque. The great horseshoe arches are conserved from the first two stages. The building, which you can currently see, is a temple attached to the rock and divided into two naves and five transepts. It retains architectural elements of the Visigothic stage from the 6^th century and a Mozarab portico from the 10^th century.

The monastery was also built as a cemetery. In addition to the sepulchers of the various hermits from the first community of San Millán, there are the Sepulcros de los Siete Infantes de Lara, Castilian nobles who were captured in the 10^th century, taken to Córdoba, and beheaded. However, the main attraction of the monastery is undoubtedly the Cenotafio de San Millán, an impeccable, alabaster, recumbent tomb from the 12^th century in which the saint appears dressed in the priestly robes of the Visigoths and with a portapaz with a cross with equally long arms resting on his chest. The tomb is located in the cave where the saint lived, the second of the vomplex, known as Oratorio de San Millán. In the same room, you’ll find an altar, considered by some as the oldest in Spain.

After its reconstruction in the 16^th, 17^th, and 18^th centuries, nothing but the old Romanesque building from the 11^th century of the Monasterio de Yuso remained. It is currently an impressive monumental compound, commonly known as the Escorial of La Rioja, which combines Renaissance and Baroque. Its church, from the 16^th century, is the first to be built in the whole monastery. It is divided into three naves, and its interior is distinguished by a main altarpiece, complete with eight paintings by Fray Juan Ricci (17^th century), as well as a baroque gate enclosing the chorus. In the library, there are still more than 300 original documents that strengthen its title as the birthplace of Castilian. The area that displays the paintings by Fray Juan Ricci depicting Fernán González, Sancho el Mayor, García of Nájera, and Alfonso VII of Castilla, four of the monarchs who were the most connected to the church, is known as the Hall of the Kings. The wall paintings of the sacristy, which are from the 18^th century, are an ensemble that is perfectly preserved, thanks to the limestone walls which efficiently absorb humidity. The cloister has two sections: The lower from the late Gothic period, and the upper from the Classical period. Finally, the entrance door to the monastery stands out with a relief showing San Millán in the Batalla de las Hacinas.

The Monasterio de Yuso also conserves the Arqueta de San Millán (11th century). It is made of marble, and it represents, in the Mozarabic style, episodes from the life of San Millán according to Gonzalo de Berceo in his Estoria del Señor Sant Millán.

Both monasteries, the upper and the lower, were included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1997, not only for historic and artistic reasons, but also for its religious, linguistic, and literary importance. Because of this recognition, the government of La Rioja has created the Fundación San Millán de la Cogolla and the International Center of Investigation of the Spanish Language Cilengua, which protects, investigates, and disseminates both the monastery and the history of the Castilian language. These are the main attractions in San Millán de la Cogolla.

Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 19′ 45″ N, 2° 51′ 44″ W

Distances

41 km from Logroño

88 km from Burgos

358 km from Madrid

Parking

You'll have no trouble parking right in the village. The Monasterio de Yuso has its own parking at its entrance, and the Monasterio de Suso offers street parking.

Altitude

728 m

Population

255 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

Santa Gertrudis (November 17th)

OTHER EVENTS

La Traslación (September 26)

Nearby Destinations

The Old Textile Village in the Mountains

Planning Your Trip to Ezcaray

History of Ezcaray

In 1076, the area was annexed to Castilla under the rule of Alfonso VI. In 1312, Fernando IV granted independence to the valley, which, among other things, exempted its inhabitants from taxes and payments to Portazgo, with the exception of the cities of Toledo, Murcia, and Sevilla. It was later linked to the lordship of the Manrique de Lara.

In the 15^th century, Ezcaray started making clothes, taking advantage of the wool from the migratory sheep that visited their fields every spring. This meant that fewer wool exports were needed in the North, since they could be produced locally. The Royal Cloth Factory of Santa Bárbara was inaugurated in 1752, which produced wool textiles of the highest quality. In 1785, however, it suffered a fire. It was later rebuilt with stronger materials.

Today, its natural environment and its extensive, well-preserved monuments to its heritage attract visitors every year in search of activities related to nature, hunting, or other sporting events. The latter can be linked to the ski resort at Valdezcaray.

Things to Do in Ezcaray

From the central Plaza del Quiosco wind a series of streets and porticoed plazas full of traditional three-floored houses which functioned as homes, as well as warehouses. Among the existing houses are the Palacio del Conde de Torremuzquiz, the Palacio Barroeta (18^th century) with two coats of arms of the Fernández de Tejada on its façade, or the Palacio del Ángel with an emblazoned façade which also exhibits a ceramic image of San Miguel.

In the Plaza de la Verdura, attached to an arcade column, is the Argolla del Fuero, which was used to show the public who broke the law, and at the same time, it served as a reminder of the strength of the law and the consequences for breaking it. Additionally, if an accused person wanted to receive a more just trial, he/she came here, and, if he/she grabbed this ring, they would be eligible for thieir jurisdiction. Given that the Fuero de Ezcaray granted many rights to its inhabitants and those of the surrounding areas, to achieve it was a privilege.

The Iglesia Parroquial de Santa María la Mayor, dating back to the 12th-16^th centuries, was constructed where another Romanesque church used to be. The building, declared of cultural interest, is a fortress-like church made of Ashlar stone, a single nave covered with ribbed vaults, and cylindrical towers at the angles. The Romanesque part is composed of the chapel of the Immaculate Conception and a tower, and the rest of the place is mostly Gothic. It presents a beautiful Gothic façade with a Plateresque door (1532) which is adorned by a frieze. Its interior houses the Museo Parroquial, which takes care of works from nearby, uninhabited villages.

Finally, it is worth mentioning the building of the Royal Cloth Factory of Santa Barbara, whose Casa de Tintes is also known as “El Fuerte.” It was fouded in 1752 with the support of the Marguis of the Ensenada and remodeled after it suffered a fire in 1785. In 1992, it was declared of Cultural Heritage, and it is currently functioning as a hotel.

Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 19′ 36″ N, 3° 0′ 48″ W

Distances

58 km from Logroño

75 km from Burgos

319 km from Madrid

Parking

Around the town hall and the Plaza de la Verdura

Altitude

813 m

Population

2031 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

San Lorenzo (the week of August 10th)

Nuestra Señora de Allende (September 24th)

San Juan (June 24th)

OTHER EVENTS

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

Nearby Destinations

The Faithful Roman City Even After Death

Planning your trip to Calahorra

History of Calahorra

It reached its greatest notoriety after the civil wars where Sertorio fought against Pompey in the 1st century BC. Thus, in the year 72 B.C., the city remained faithful to the rebel Sertorio (despite having died), and they were besieged for a long time by troops from Pompey. The inhabitant of Calahorras took heroism to the extreme, even resorting to cannibalism (that gave rise to the popular expression, fames calagurritana), given the lack of food and not wanting to stop fighting. This term would later be used in classical times to define extreme hardships. This heroic fidelity has been reflected in the statue of the Matron who cooked for all. Their strong reputation led the Emperor Octavian Augustus to recruit his personal guard from the residents of Calahorra. As a full-fledged Roman municipality, the town grew, issued currency, and counted on the main infrastructures of a traditional large Roman city: The theatre, circus, forums and hot springs.

At the end of the 3rd century, Calahorra began to be evangelized. At that time, there was a story about the Martyrdom of St. Emeterio and St. Celedonio, two Roman soldiers who had embraced the Catholic faith. Both were decapitated and their heads thrown into the Ebro River. But, according to legend, the skulls ended up in the upstream waters instead of following the current. Be that as it may, the city was fully evangelized during the Roman Empire and named Episcopal headquarters in the fourth century, a status that it still preserves today. During the year 348, the Roman ruler Aurelio Prudencio Clemente was born here, who became one of the most important Christian poets after converting to Christianity.

In the year 714, Calahorra fell under Muslim rule. Somewhat more than a century later, in the year 844, King Ramiro I of Asturias took control of Calahorra after the Battle of Clavijo, celebrating in the temple of Santa Maria-El Salvador the first Vote of Santiago, which was enforced until the promulgation of the Constitution of The Courts of Cadiz.

The 15th and 16th centuries were very important for the development of the locality, as well as the eighteenth century, in which Calahorra became more of an urban city.

The arrival of the railway and the development of the canning industry in the nineteenth century were also decisive in the transformation of the city, which at the present time is an important socioeconomic center of La Rioja, with thriving agricultural, industrial and commercial businesses.

Things to Do in Calahorra

Calahorra is also located within the route of the Santiago del Ebro, so it has a hostel for pilgrims and a 'humilladero' from the 16th century at the entrance of the city. The route we suggest below is  linked precisely to its rich religious heritage, derived from its early position as an Episcopal headquarters and its connection to this famous pilgrimage route.

We began our visit in the Plaza del Raso, a former Roman forum where the most important events of the city were held. Here the Town Hall was located until the 17th century (now at the roundabout in Quintilian). In it stands the Church of Santiago Apostle (17th-18th century), which is the best example of Riojano neo-classicism. It was erected on another former temple, dedicated to the Santiago el Viejo. Both its facade and its interior are older, but not any less majestic. Inside, you cannot miss the main altarpiece (1734-1741), built by Diego de Camporredondo in the eighteenth century. It is presided over by Santiago Matamoros in the center and by the patrons of the city, San Emeterio and San Celedonio, on the sides.

Surrounding this temple is the Arch of the Planillo, an old Roman gate to the city and, following the street Santiago, we reached the Viewpoint of Bellavista, with magnificent views over the valley of the Ebro.

Next we can see the Church of San Andrés, from the 16th century, built on another building from the 7th century and reformed in later years. It stands out for its gothic façade, with a curious tympanum in which a cross of unequal arms has been carved which represents the triumph of Christianity over paganism, symbolized by the sun, the moon and a synagogue. In its interior, the main altarpiece is worth studying, as it was made by a local artist, Manuel Adam.

Moving along San Andrés Street, you will arrive at the Rasillo of San Francisco, in the highest part of the southern area of the city. This place was the Jewish quarter, and the castle was located inside, aka the most important place of defense since Roman times. We can also stop at the Convent Church of San Francisco, where the processions of their Holy Week are now carried out. This temple was around in 1366, when they proclaimed Enrique de Trastámara King of Castile.

Next, head towards the lower part of the city, on the banks of the Cidacos River, to visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria-El Salvador, a gothic building built on the alleged place of the martyrdom of Saint Emeterio and Saint Celedonio, which has been declared a Place of Cultural Interest. It is a three-nave building, and it has an annexed cloister. Its main façade is baroque, richly decorated with alabaster figures, and it is near another place of interest, located to the north and known as the Portada of San Jerónimo. Inside, you can see the Cristo de la Pelota (14th century), a curious gothic carving that, according to the legend, contributed to settle the outcome of a ball game. The Baroque sacristy and the cloister are also plateresque. The Cathedral and Diocesan Museum is another must-see, where you can see several paintings by Tiziano and Zurbarán, as well as several pieces from a goldsmith and a 'thorá' belonging to the Old synagogue. Next to the cathedral stands the Episcopal Palace, a splendid brick building from the 16th-18th centuries.

Crossing the bridge over the Cidacos River, you can walk towards the Sanctuary of the Virgen del Carmen, patron of the valley. It is a Herrera style building founded in 1603. Inside, a Baroque altarpiece stands out, with the Virgin of Carmen attributed to Gregorio Fernandez.

Calahorra is also a fertile place, where vegetables have become very popular. It is recommended before the end of your day in the village that you go through the old town to buy some good vegetables,wine or oil from the Rioja orchard and even visit the Vegetable Museum. Here, through a didactic presentation and interactive shows, you can get a hands-on look at the orchards and crops along the bank of the Ebro.

The Essentials

Important Information

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 18′ 12″ N, 1° 57′ 53″ W

Distances

53 km from Logroño, 86 km from Pamplona, 389 km from Madrid

Altitude

351 m

Inhabitants

24,509 (2013)

CELEBRATIONS

OTHER EVENTS

ARTISANS AND SHOPS

Other nearby destinations

The Footprints of the Dinosaurs

Planning Your Trip to Enciso

History of Enciso

Things to Do in Enciso

These ichnites can be seen in various areas around Enciso. In the Yacimiento de la Virgen del Campo, you can also see the remains of broken artifacts (probably caused by an earthquake) and evidence of an encounter between two dinosaurs, which experts assume to be hunting. One of the most interesting areas is undoubtedly the Yacimiento de Valdecillo, where, in addition to evidence of the first theropod (carnivorous biped) discovered in the area, you can admire a model of a Tyrannosaurus Rex. You can also see the longest trail of dinosaur footprints in La Rioja at the Yacimiento del Barranco de la Canal. Other interesting sites in the surrounding areas include the Senoba, Navalsaz, and the Cuesta de Andorra, where you can also trace the movement of these huge creatures through the valley of the Cidacos.

Inside Enciso, you can visit the Centro Paleontológico, which teaches us about the origin of the ichnites and the different dinosaur species that lived in the area. Another option is to go to the paleontology park called El Barranco Perdido, a big center for family visits and field trips, where you can perform activities relating to the world of dinosaurs.

When it comes to artistic and historical heritage, Enciso is known as a pleasantly beautiful urban center that is dominated by the ruins of the Medieval Castle, which is one of the oldest castles in La Rioja. It is an oval shape, and it is believed to be an Islamic structure, erected in the 10^th century, although historians have not come to an agreement on this point. Only a few parts of the castle, like the prismatic and rounded towers, are currently being preserved.The Iglesia Parroquial de Santa María de la Estrella, located in the center of the town, dates back to the 15^th century. It has one nave of four sections and a headboard, and an ashlar was built later. Its interior is covered with beautiful vaults of starry crosses, and it houses a magnificent main altarpiece. Another building of interest is the Iglesia de San Pedro, which was built in the 15^th and 16^th centuries. It’s tower, however, is a Romanesque structure from the 12^th century. It consists of one nave and quadrangular threshold. On the outskirts of the village, you’ll find the Ermita de la Concepción (16^th century), situated at the highest point, which can be reached by the Puente de la Concepción. It is an interesting Renaissance structure with masonry and ashlars. More anecdotal is the Reloj del Ayuntamiento, which, at 12:00, 14:00. And 18:00, rings its bells and opens its small, black doors to reveal a roaring dinosaur.

Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 8′ 56″ N, 2° 16′ 9″ W

Distances

71 km from Logroño

158 km from Pamplona

288 km from Madrid

Parking 

You should have no problems parking

Altitude

800 m

Population

172 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

San Pedro (June 29th)

Jueves Lardero (February 20th)

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

Nearby Destinations

Hidden Beauties, Gastronomy and a Good Atmosphere

Planning your Visit to Arnedo

History of Arnedo

During the following two centuries, the city was owned by both Aragón and Navarra until finally, in 1256, it was indefinitely incorporated into the crown of Castile, and stayed under its dominion during the following centuries.

In 1388, King Juan I of Castile signed the Treaty of Arnedo with the Ambassador of the King of France. This was based on a mutual defense pact and an alliance to invade England. In the 15th century, one of the first banks known in the world was founded in the locality to finance its inhabitants. In addition, the Vico Monastery was founded.

In the modern age, Arnedo was distinguished by several monarchs, such as the Austrian king, Felipe IV, who granted the title of city in 1653, or the Bourbon king Carlos III, who created a nine day fair and the idea of a weekly market during the eighteenth century.

Things to Do in Arnedo

There are several important religious buildings. The Church of Santo Tomás is a late Gothic temple from the 15th – early 16th century which features an impressive 8-pointed star and its Gothic façade with six pointed archivolts. In the Church of San Cosme and San Damián, built between the 16th and 17th centuries, you can admire a great baroque altarpiece next to the main altar and a Romanesque carving of the Virgin of Vico. The Church of Santa Eulalia, from the 16th century, is a Renaissance Gothic temple. It has a good copper collection of flamenco style.

About three kilometers from the city is the Monastery of Nuestra Señora de Vico, where legend has it that in the year 1045, the Virgin appeared to an Arab chief. The monastery was founded in the 15th century by the Franciscan friar Lope de Salinas, although the current building was erected during the 16th century, with no visible remains for the original structure. Nowadays, it is inhabited by a community of Cistercian nuns that are economically supported by selling porcelain and baked goods.

In the urban center of Arnedo, we find several civil buildings that currently serve as centers for artistic or cultural things. The Baroque Palace of the 17th-century Archbishop Argaiz is now the headquarters of the House of Culture and the Museum of Natural Science, which has an interesting collection of minerals and fossils, of which a large sample of pyrites stands out. The House of the Baroness, also known as the House of Art, is a modernist building from the beginning of the twentieth century. It currently houses the tourist office and a center where artistic and musical activities are held. Another interesting civil building is the House-Palace Sopranis, the residence of the Fernandez de Velasco family, who stayed there from 1378 to 1881. It is a building from the end of the eighteenth century erected on the remains of an older one.

Footwear has become the standard item of Arnedo, whose municipal slogan is in fact, "The City of Footwear." In relation to this, as a tourist attraction, we find the Footwear Museum, where visitors can learn about the history and evolution of this industry from the 16th century to the present day, and you can dive into the manufacturing process of various types of footwear .

Coordinates

42° 13′ 40″ N, 2° 6′ 0″ W

Distances

49 km from Logroño, 102 km from Pamplona, 311 km from Madrid

Altitude

531 m

Inhabitants

14,559 (2013)

CELEBRATIONS

OTHER EVENTS

ARTISANS AND SHOPS

Other nearby destinations

Home of the Storks

Planning Your Trip to Alfaro

History of Alfaro

At the end of the 11^th century, Alfaro fell at the hands of El Cid during his battles with the Count García Ordóñez. A little while after this, Alfonso I the Fighter, king of Aragón, reconquered and repopulated the area. He also initiated an irrigation system from the Alhama River, which ran swiftly through the area.

Alfaro officially became a village in 1253, declared by Alfonso X the Wise, confirming its standing and amplifying its privileges on multiple occasions until the 15^th century. In 1429, the famous French knight, Count Gastón IV de Foix, besieged the village with the help of troops from Navarra. He was ultimately unsuccessful.

In 1429, the famous French knight, Count Gastón IV de Foix, laid siege to the city with the help of Navarran troops. He was ultimately defeated.

Alfaro was added to the province of Logroño in 1883, when it was created, leaving its previous affiliation with Soria.

Things to Do in Alfaro

The urban area of the city is centered around the Plaza de España, a large space with porticoes on one side. The Colegiata de San Miguel Arcángel, the most important building in the city is located here. It is the largest temple in La Rioja, and it was declared a national monument in 1976. It was constructed by a knight between the 16^th and 17^th centuries. Its classical façade stands out for visitors, which includes a staircase, and has three doors and sits between two twin towers. Inside, you can see its impressive baroque grilles from 1697, which allows access to the choir, which contains an ashlar of walnut wood. It also conserves a total of 15 altarpieces, among which are the main altarpiece, with its image of San Miguel de Gregorio Fernández; the central altarpiece of the Virgen del Rosario; the chapel of San Ildefonso, with a magnificent image of La Dolorosa; and the chapel of San José, with a 13^th century Gothic Christ.

La Colegiata houses one of the largest colonies of white storks in all of Europe, which makes the temple a natural attraction. However, it also presents a problem for its conservation. Its roof can accommodate some 150 nests for couples, which can mean that around 500 storks live in the temple during breeding season. However, the roof’s 3,000 sq. feet soon becomes cramped with birds, so some have to spread to peripheral neighborhoods. Because of this, the Alfaro sky is often filled with these birds in search of food and building materials for their nests. There seems to be no explanation as to why the birds choose to settle in this town besides the presence of the Alhama and Ebro rivers with their thickets, and the immense Alfaren orchard. As for why the birds choose the roof of La Colegiata, it is thought that the many nooks and crannies it possesses offers perfect places to build a nest for the birds. Thus, Alfaro is considered a unique biotope in its species nationwide.

The Plaza de España also holds the ancient Casa Consistorial, which has a Neoclassical façade and a triangular pediment. Its current use has changed since its construction; it now serves as the home of the Tourism Office and the Centro de Inderpretación de los Sotos del Ebro, which is a great place to learn about the beautiful natural environment that surrounds Alfaro.

If you start at the Plaza de España and take the Calle Mayor, you’ll come to the neighborhood of the Puebla, where you can visit the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Burgo, on the street with the same name. It is made of brick, and it follows the Classical and Baroque styles of the 17^th century. Its interior displays the Capilla de la Virgen del Burgo, in whose entrance resides an interesting canvas of the Juicio de Salomón. It is in the Sevillian baroque style, and copies one of Ruben’s works from the middle of the 17^th century.

You can also find in la Puebla the Palacio Sáenz de Heredia (late 19^th century), which you can visit on weekends. Its façade displays numerous balconies and windows. On the site that occupies the palace (ancient residence of the Primo de Rivera), the house that hosted Felipe V in 1711 was built.

Leaving the neighborhood, you can visit the area where you can watch the storks to fully appreciate how the birds fill the skies and dominate the city. Later, you can go to the Monasterio Clasicista de la Conceptión (17^th century), which houses a spectacular Rococo altarpiece designed by the Riojano artist Diego de Camporredondo.

After this, you can take the Calle Las Pozas to get to the Palacio Abacial, from the mid-18^th century, which currently serves as the seat of the new town hall, the library, and the municipal archive.Another roof in Alfaro that is popular among the storks is that of the Iglesia de San Francisco de Asís, which is in the Classical style. It was constructed in the 17^th century out of brick and stone from the old castle. On the inside, you cannot miss the exceptional image of the crucified Christ attached to one of its walls.

When it comes to the civil architecture of the city, we must mention the Casa Orovio, built between the 17^th and 18^th centuries, and the Palacio Remírez, which was built in the 19^th century. The Antigua Cárcel, built in 1867, is also interesting. It is now a hostel, but you can still see old cells and visit the punishment chambers, perfectly equipped with all sorts of chains and shakles.

On the outskirts of Alfaro lies the Yacimiento Arqueológico Eras de San Martín-Graccurris, which lets you in on the Celtic and Roman past of the city. Also interesting is the Ruinas del Ninfeo, a fountain that supposedly was the site of a cult for the nymph of the Alhama River. The Nymphaeum is located in the outskirts of the town, on the street named Zaragoza, in the direction of Logroño.

Apart from the usual specialties of Riojano cuisine, Alfaro serves delicious Caracolijas, snails served with tomato sauce, ham, chorizo, onion, and olive oil. On the desert side, we have the Rusos, a dessert made from butter, eggs, and flour that is famous in this area. This is also the city of various wineries which produce wine with a D.O. Riojano. Some of these are Burgo Viejo, Ciego del Rey, Finca Egomei, Ilurce, Isidro Milagro, Marqués de Campo Nuble, and Palacios Remondo.

Coordinates

42° 10′ 42″ N, 1° 44′ 51″ W

Distances

85 km from Logroño

312 km from Madrid

Parking

Avenida Zaragoza, in front of the Hotel Palacios

Altitude

310 m

Population

9,811 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

San Isidro (May 15th)

Virgen del Burgo (September 8th-10th)

OTHER EVENTS

Rosco Gigante de San Blas (February 3rd)

Comida de la Culeca (second Thursday of February)

Hogueras de San Antón (the closest Friday to January 17th)

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

Nearby Destinations

The cheerful capital of La Rioja

Plan your stay in Logroño

Do you want to visit this place?

History of Logroño

In 1521, during the war between the Autonomous Communities, Francisco I's French army arrived at the city walls. After a short but intense siege, the people of Logroño defeated the French on the 11th of June through a small night brush.

n 1570, the Tribunal de la Santa Inquisition was installed in Logroño. Among the most known acts of faith, it is important to highlight the "Logroño's Process," which happened in 1610 and was burned by the witches of Zugarramurdi.

In 1833, the newly created province of Logroño began to take lead. In those years, during the First Carlist War, General Espartero chose Logroño as the center of operations of the liberals. He liked the city so much that he decided to choose it as his place of residence until his death in 1879.

In 1854, a colera epidemic devastated the city. The exemplary behavior of the citizens during this time resulted in praise from the government, and to recognize them, Queen Isabel II awarded the city with a title of "Excellence."

What to see in Logroño

The historical area in Logroño is surrounded by the Plaza del Mercado. In one of its highest points, you will find the Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda (15th-18th century), declared Heritage of Cultural Interest. It was but during the 15th century on top of an old Roman temple. Its carefully sculpted front door stands out along with the two baroque towers. In its interior, you can observe many pieces by Castilian sculptor Gregorio Fernández and a painting called The Crucifixion by Michelangelo.

Inside of the historical center of Logroño, you will find three important temples. The first one if the San Bartolomé Church, which has also been awarded the Heritage of Cultural Interest. It was constructed first in the 18th century attached to one of the walls of the medieval city and then was later reconstructed in the 15th century. It features a beautiful gothic front door in which many sculptures can be found. You will also notice a Mudejar tower. Construction on the Iglesia de Santa María del Palacio began in the 12th century, although it continued to be remodeled until the 18th century. Its gothic character is so strong that the writer Dionisio Ridruejo said that it was the "sharpest, most original, and boldest [construction] of gothic Spain in its beginning stages in the 13th century." It has been declared a Heritage of Cultural Interest. Lastly, the Iglesia de Santiago el Real is a monumental building that was constructed in the 16th century on top of a gothic temple. The facade, which was built in the 17th century, is thought to be a sort of "arc de triomf" and is decorated with two sculptures of the the apostle Santiago. Inside, you will find the meeting place of city council, which is why government documents are saved. It also houses the Virgin of Hope, patron saint of Logroño. This last temple is next to the Plaza de Santiago, in which a singural game of the goose is recreated, as it relates to the Santiago Way.

Amongst the civil architecture, Logroño has many must-see sights such as the Marqués del Monasterio Palace, a renaissance building from the 16th century, remodeled in the 18th century. The Palacio de Espartero from the 18th century also stands out, which was the old residence of the General along with being used as the episcopal headquarters during the time. Since 1963, this building has housed the La Rioja Museum, which presents a wide collection of history and art from the region.

Another emblematic space in this city is the Paseo del Príncipe de Vergara o del Espolón, which began to be built in the early year of 1757 as a public route on the outside of the walls that protected the city. On the path, you can see the Espartero Monument (1872), a statue of the chief architect of the project, Luis and Tomás, and of the sculptor Pablo Gilbert.

The Teatro Bretón de los Herreros, created by Félix Navarro at the end of the 19th century, is another one of the most representative buildings of the city. Currently, it is categorized as a Heritage of Cultural Interest.

As the capital of La Rioja, Logroño features a wide variety of vineyards in its streets and stands out for its high quality wine.

Must-see...

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 27′ 55″ N, 2° 27′ 0″ W

Distances

Pamplona 85 km, Burgos 150 km,Madrid 389 km

Altitude

391 m

Inhabitants

153 066 (2013)

Other nearby destinations

The real capital among the rocks

Plan your trip to Nájera

In its vicinity are other magnificent monumental destinations: the "rival" of San Millán de la Cogolla, Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Ezcaray. There are multiple active tourism options available in the nearby Ezcaray, covering the Parque de las sierras de la Demanda y de Urbión. You can also discover the French Way, which passes through this town.Do you want to visit this place?

History of Nájera

Nájera and its origins

The city of Nájera is of pre-Roman origin. It later was one of the most important Roman sites in this area, although its period of greatest splendor will take place in the Middle Ages.

In the 8th century the Arabs occupied the village that stood on the current Nájera. They were amazed by the high hills that protected it. Hence it denominated Naxara (place between rocks) and its river Naxarilla, from which its current name is derived.

A place for the Court

Two centuries later, in 923, the King of Pamplona Sancho Garcés I, in collaboration with the monarch Ordoño II of León, conquered the town of the Muslims. Just one year later, in 924, the army of Caliph of Cordoba Abderrahman III ransacked and destroyed Pamplona. This forced the court of Navarre to move to Nájera.

The King Sancho Garcés III the Great kept the capital in the village, giving the final impetus to grant a charter and to celebrate it the Cortes.

In addition, he favored the passage of pilgrims on the Way to Santiago, turning the city into a key point on the pilgrimage route. The monarch Garcia Sanchez III of Najera further developed the work of his father, inaugurating in 1052 the building complex of Santa Maria de Nájera and transferring important relics to encourage pilgrimages.

In 1076, Alfonso VI joined Castile and granted a charter of conditions (similar to the existing one) that would inspire those of many other places of Castile. The settlement of a thriving Jewish community and the dynamism of the unions, along with the continuous flow of pilgrims, contributed to Nájera's rising as a quickly prospering town.

Henry IV of Castile was granted the title of "Very Noble and Loyal" in 1454. In 1465, he ceded the city to Pedro Manrique de Lara, II Count of Treviño. In 1482 the Catholic Monarchs confirmed this concession and also gave the duchy of Nájera for services rendered to their cause.

From the seventeenth century, the town gradually began to lose favor of other riojanas cities.

What to see in Nájera

The popular monastery

The main attraction of Nájera is the Monastery of Santa María la Real. It is a monumental complex built in the mid-eleventh century by orders of García Sánchez III as bishopric, convent and family vault.

According to legend, it was erected on the site of a cave (which in fact can still be accessed from the church) where the monarch found an image of the Virgin Mary. Early interventions are purely Romanesque but, given the continuous expansion and renovation from the fifteenth century, its appearance becomes more Gothic and Renaissance. On the exterior its tower and rounded buttresses give it a solid appearance of strength.

From inside, with three naves and transept, stands Claustro de los Caballeros (s. XVI), which combines Gothic, Plateresque and Renaissance styles. By it you access the 15th century Gothic style Church and the Panteón Real, where you will find the tombs of the 30 kings of Navarre and their families. In particular, we highlight the tomb of Doña Blanca de Navarra for its artistic value. She was the mother of Alfonso VIII and Don Diego López de Haro, Lord of Vizcaya.

The monastery was used after the confiscation nineteenth century as infantry barracks, theater, public works depot and warehouse, until in 1889 was declared a National Monument.

Discovering the past in Nájera

In Plaza de España, next to the ancient monastery,you will find the Museo Histórico Arqueológico de Nájera, built in the old palace of the abbot of Santa María la Real. The museum displays many historical pieces from nearby archaeological excavations, from Paleolithic to the Middle Ages materials and ethnographic background of the region.

Another interesting building in town is the Parish Church of La Santa Cruz, declared a National Monument. It is a building whose foundation dates back to the eleventh century, although its present appearance is the work of the seventeenth century. It highlights its magnificent dome on scallops topped by flashlight. The temple houses the relics of San Prudencio, among other saints and pictures from Santa María la Real.

A walk along the river

You should complete the visit with a nice walk through the old part of the town, which houses traditional shops and an authentic medieval atmosphere. You can continue walking towards the river.

Across the river is the Convent of Santa Elena, a sober mid-sixteenth century building currently inhabited by a community of nuns. The temple of the monastery, from the seventeenth century, is the only part of that you can visit. It has a Latin cross with a single nave hemispherical dome.

Must-see...

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 24′ 57″ N, 2° 44′ 3″ W

Distances

Logroño 27 km, Burgos 113 km, Madrid 351 km

Altitude

491 m

Inhabitants

8377 (2013)

Where the hen sang after being roasted

Plan your trip to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

History of Santo Domingo de la Calzada

One of the biggest attractions of this must-stop on the road are the numerous miracles attributed to the saint throughout the years. In front of his tomb, a French gentleman was freed from the devil and a German rosemary cured of a severe eye infection. A pilgrim who was hit by a car while he dozed on the bridge was erected by the saint and healed thanks to his intervention. But the most popular one is the miracle of the rooster and hen. When they notified the mayor, who was about to eat, a young German pilgrim who was to be hanged had survived thanks to the intervention of the saint. He said this story would be as certain as a rooster and the hen getting up from the table and starting to sing. To the astonishment of all, both animals did!

Today, Santo Domingo de la Calzada is an important service center in the region.

What to see in Santo Domingo de la Calzada

The main patrimonial attraction of the city is the Cathedral, seat of the diocese of Calahorra-La Calzada, located in Plaza del Santo. The church was begun in 1158 on the shrine erected to house the remains of Santo Domingo. The first cathedral was Late Romanesque style, according to the design of Master Garcion, but further reforms during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries gave it its current Gothic and Renaissance appearance. The building has three naves with a transept, ambulatory, clerestory and vaults. Later, in the eighteenth century, the main facade was topped and the free baroque tower built. Inside stands the altarpiece (1537-1540), now on the side of the temple, a work of Damián Forment and dedicated to the Saviour and the Virgin in the mystery of the Assumption. Also in the Cathedral Museum are pieces brought to the saint by famous pilgrims or created to enhance the grandeur of the cathedral.

The cathedral complex stands out, especially the Mausoleo of Santo Domingo. According to tradition, it was Sunday himself who prepared his grave in the road that he had drawn, outside of the disappeared early church (now integrated into the south transept of the new building). The mausoleo is the result of three interventions. The first is the first quarter of the thirteenth century, and it corresponds to the Romanesque tombstone, with a recumbent figure of the saint in high relief two meters, surrounded by six angels. The second, in the first half of the fifteenth century Gothic style, corresponds to the alabaster table on which sits the tombstone, with the shield of Bishop Diego Lopez de Zúñiga and collecting different episodes of the saint's life. The set is covered with a alabaster canopy, hired in 1513 by Felipe Vigarny. The design and construction was executed by Juan de Rasines. Under the space in 1958 a crypt that houses the relics was built. In front of the mausoleum is a Gothic polychrome stone Roost (s. XV), in memory of the famous miracle, always blanket a rooster and a hen.

In the square of the Holy Shrine of Our Lady of La Plaza (Ermita de Nuestra Señora de La Plaza) is located in the place where, according to tradition, was built the humble chapel erected by Santo Domingo. The present church is nevertheless the result of several reforms between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries.

Opposite the cathedral the Hospital de Peregrinos, built in the twelfth century by the saint by a miracle that allowed him to cut all the wood he needed with his sickle stands. Today it has been converted into a Parador de Turismo.

After the bishopric la Plaza de España, and one of its sides, is the Town Hall, built on the medieval wall. This is a two arcaded baroque heights of projecting its richly ornamented central body building.

The walled city of Santo Domingo de la Calzada is the most important of La Rioja. The ancient walls, you lift commanded by Pedro I the Cruel in the fourteenth century, still parts of the 1670 meters, 38 towers and up to 7 doors with Gothic arches giving access to the old town in different parts of it are preserved. The wall, which they are trying to recover, has a path on which you can take a pleasant walk along the heights of the villa.

The oldest civil building in the city is the House of Trastámara, on Main Street. It is a Gothic building where he lived and died Enrique II of Castile. Historic-Artistic Monument in 1983, now houses the Library and Office of Information and Tourism. On this road stands the House of the Brotherhood of the Holy, a Renaissance building of the sixteenth century enlarged in the eighteenth century. This building houses since 1968 of the Brotherhood of the Holy, the oldest Jacobean brotherhood, founded by Santo Domingo in the 11th century.

Before ending the tour of Santo Domingo de la Calzada you should approach the Oja River, which can still be crossed via the Bridge of Santo Domingo, the same as the holy rise up in the early eleventh century.

Must-see...

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 26′ 31″ N, 2° 57′ 9″ W

Distances

Logroño 46 km, Burgos 69 km, Madrid 336 km

Altitude

641 m

Inhabitants

6614 (2013)

Other nearby destinations

The city of lights and wine

Plan your escape to Haro

Do you want to visit this place?

History of Haro

At the end of the century, Haro was already linked to the Lordship of Vizcaya, and in turn linked to Castile, and in 1187 the Castilian King Alfonso VIII granted a charter which would be ratified later by Alfonso X the Wise. He then moved alternately by Castilian and Navarran hands. Insecurity in those days was so prevalent such that on August 6, 1358, authorities in a dozen towns in the provinces of Alava and La Rioja in Haro met for to grant a mutual assistance ordinance against external attacks. King John II of Castile, to finish solving the problem of insecurity and oppose Navarre, turned the place into county, in 1430, and gave it later to Pedro Fernandez de Velasco, first Count de Haro, as a reward for their help in fighting against the king of Aragon.

In 1520, Haro supported the uprising commoner, rising against the fourth count, confidant of Carlos I. The counts of Haro exercised their jurisdiction until the province of Logroño was created in 1833. During the War of Spanish Independence, it was the first population to adapt to the administrative model of Joseph Bonaparte I, better known as "Pepe Botella". At the beginning of the century it emerged as an important center of production and wine trade. The introduction of new production techniques and local effort to export their wines were gradually positioning the village as one of the main centers of the wine industry. This process was indirectly benefited by the plagues of phylloxera that devastated the French Mediodía at the end of the century and represented an interesting boost for the riojana production.

Parish Church of St. ThomasEconomic prosperity financed the technical advances.In 1890, Haro became the first Spanish city -along with Jerez de la Frontera- with public electric lighting, a service only available to other major European cities in that time. That's when the slogan "Haro, Paris and London" arose. The city's anthem includes the phrase "when you see the lights, we are already in Haro." It seems that this sentence was exclaimed daily by travelers on night trains passing near the town. The following year the Queen Regent Maria Cristina granted the title of city. One year later, Enology Station and the Bank of Spain opened a branch in Haro to facilitate transactions related to trade in wine.

What to see in Haro

Parish Church of St. Thomas

Economic prosperity financed the technical advances.In 1890, Haro became the first Spanish city -along with Jerez de la Frontera- with public electric lighting, a service only available to other major European cities in that time. That's when the slogan "Haro, Paris and London" arose. The city's anthem includes the phrase "when you see the lights, we are already in Haro." It seems that this sentence was exclaimed daily by travelers on night trains passing near the town. The following year the Queen Regent Maria Cristina granted the title of city. One year later, Enology Station and the Bank of Spain opened a branch in Haro to facilitate transactions related to trade in wine.

Besides being the wine capital of La Rioja, Haro city has a heritage and cultural richness that makes it a place worth visiting. The old town, declared a Historic-Artistic in 1975, is a beautiful framework that revolves around the Plaza de la Paz. In the plaza is the City Hall, perhaps the most important and best conserved building of the city. It boasts a Neoclassical style and was built in the eighteenth century under the supervision of the famous architect Ventura Rodriguez. Its façade, built using stone masonry, displays a baroque shield of the city.

Without leaving the square we can admire the facade of the Breton Theatre, which was begun on the church of the Convent of San Agustin (XV century) in 1840 and currently hosts cultural events, including the National Contest of Garnacha Theatre Rioja. In the same space there is an old tower of the 14th century, known as the Tower of Prisoners. Only the walls from the 12th century that once defended the city of Haro. The latter space has been recovered and restored as the Museum of Contemporary Art: "The Tower", holding in its interior the collection of contemporary artists from the community.

As a vestige of the past there still remains two of the three doors from the old walled city of San Bernardo and Santa Barbara.

At the foot of Cerro de la Mota (also called La Atalaya) in the original location of Haro is the Parish Church of St. Thomas, built between the 16th and 17th centuries under the impulse of the Constable of Castile. With an open lounge divided into three parts, it highlights the magnificent plateresque. This is a work of the sculptor Felipe Vigarny, conceived as a tableau containing scenes of the Calvary and images of the apostles and the Eternal Father; also it highlights its main tower, topped with a Baroque dome with a lantern. It houses the largest altarpiece of all La Rioja, made in 1730 of polychrome wood.

Around the place where the Virgin appeared in the 10th century rises the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Vega, dedicated to the patron saint of the town. The original Romanesque temple was later renovated and expanded at various points in time. Today the barrroca is being reformed,resulting from the intervention of 1703. The three parts covered with vaults were designed by architects Bernardo Munilla and Juan de Villanueva. Inside it contains an interesting baroque altarpiece, which houses the Gothic image of the Virgen de la Vega (XIV century).

Plaza de la Paz

Despite all this, if there is one architecture that characterizes Haro it's the streets of the old town that are lined with palaces and stately homes. This is the result of economic power and townspeople who enjoyed in the past. Among these many palaces, we focus on three: The Palacio de los Salazar, two facades built in the 18th century, is a good example of transition from Plateresque style to herreriano style. Another case of transition in styles, between the Renaissance and Baroque, is the Palacio de los Condes de Haro (XVI-XVII century), which highlights its richly decorated main entrance. Finally, the Palace of Bendaña (XV-XVIII century), located in the old medieval walls, is unique throughout the Rioja for its Mudejar gallery of the 15th century showing a series of stars and flowers entwined along it.

Currently, Haro is a city overturned in tourism of which the wine culture is one of its biggest attractions. Not surprisingly, the villa has been known as "The Capital of Rioja" or "La Costa del Vino". In the district of the station is the largest concentration of ancient cellars in the world, and the rest of the urban core has many more cellars. Some of these are internationally recognized.

With the interest in wine comes one of the town's main festivities, the Battle of Wine. This is a party of National Tourist Interest, held every June 29th and in which the members of each party throw thousands and thousands of liters of wine in a red tinted color show that any visitor will find it hard to forget (and clean).

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 34′ 37″ N, 2° 50′ 46″ W

Distances

Logroño 47 km, Burgos 91 km,Madrid 330 km

Altitude

478 m

Inhabitants

11 713 (2013)

Other nearby destinations