A shared Biosphere Reserve between Portugal and Spain

Some 70 kilometres south of Ourense, mother nature springs to life with imposing summits reaching heights of more than 1500 metres. There, the Gerês-Xurés Biosphere Reserve reveals a bountiful scenery of mountains whose pure air and hidden sites captivate the explorer.

The vibrant landscape of Gerês-Xurés

Although two mountain chains lend their names to this rocky park, other peaks form part of this Unesco designated natural space. A quarter part of this protected territory is found on Spanish soil where a surprising landscape of granite formations and coursing rivers race through steep valleys.

The combination of Atlantic, Mediterranean and alpine influences has bestowed upon Gerês-Xurés an extraordinary biodiversity of more than one-hundred native vegetable species. Its abundant fauna, seemingly plucked from a fairytale, includes the Minerva owl and genet. As one ascends, the dense forest cedes to a rocky terrain of exposed mineral creating a natural mosaic as diverse as it is astounding.

A harmonious human footprint 

Traces of the people who once inhabited these mountains can be seen throughout the region. Dolmens littering the countryside speak to age-old civilisations, while rustic sagacity is evident in the mills, lagoons and granary shelters, known as canastros (or espigueiros on the Portuguese side of the river), used by shepherds. Springs, crossroads and stone walls mark these trails rich in history. 

When the waters of the Conchas Reservoir descend, the encampment of Aquis Querquernis, a timeworn Roman bastion, reappears. The fortification’s ruins can be visited and the site’s Interactive Centre recreates the Roman conquest of this frontier region. Nearby, the Visigothic church of Santa Comba in Bande and the Baroque façade of Santa María la Real Church in Entrimo bear architectonic witness to diverse epochs.

Crossing the border, known colloquially as the "Raya" (stripe in Spanish), into Portugal, lies the sanctuary of A Peneda in the village of Melgaço, a hub of religious devotion and pilgrimage where its impressive waterfall takes centre stage during the rains. Accessible walking routes run along the banks of the Miño River or by crossing directly from the village of Entrimo.  A stop at the ancient fort of Laboreiro, where nature and history meet, complements an unbeatable itinerary.

You can also read this article in Spanish.

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There are two ways to access these experiences. Of course, you can get there by boat. But you can also walk through the symbolic 2-kilometre-long bridge that links the island to the peninsula. Inaugurated in the 1980s, it became the longest bridge in Galicia. In fact, it is still one of the longest in Spain and Europe. It is also the gateway to this island that was declared a natural reserve by the European Union thanks to its 36-kilometre-long coast and its enchanting landscapes and beaches.

Beaches that you must visit in A Illa de Arousa

Isla de Arosa is a mandatory visit in the province of Pontevedra and Galicia itself. It is filled with marvellous natural landscapes, most of which are beaches. You will find them as soon as you cross the emblematic bridge, and these are actually the most crowded, thanks to how easy it is to get to them. Some of them, like Playa de O Vao, are equipped with facilities: toilets, showers, and near chiringuitos. It has a lifeguard too.

However, the best beaches in this Galician paradise are far away from the entrance. The further you get from it, the more beautiful the beaches and coves get.

Playa de Sualaxe is highly recommended. It sits a few minutes away from Punta Cabalo lighthouse, in a beautiful bay surrounded by plenty of trees whose water is a deep turquoise. Besides, it must be noted that you can park near the beach, so it only takes you a few minutes to enjoy the most refreshing bath.

That is not the case for some other beaches that you should visit on this Galician island. You will need to walk for a while to get to Playa Lontreira, Playa As Margaritas, Playa de A Lameira, and Playa de Xestestelas. They are all located in the Carreirón Natural Park and are the most renowned beaches on the island. Their extreme beauty is the reason why they have gained so much popularity.

What else you should see in Isla de Arosa

These coves and beaches are perfect for those travellers who wonder what to visit in Pontevedra or what to see in Galicia. But if you want even more, it's your lucky day. There is so much to see on the island. Puerto de Cabodeiro is a mandatory stop. You will be charmed by its seafaring atmosphere, its numerous vibrant boats, and the tiny houses facing the Atlantic Ocean.

Faro de Punta Cabalo should be on your bucket list too. This building has become one of the most popular postcards of this place. It dates back to 1852, rising in the middle of a rocky landscape from where you can enjoy the most fascinating views of the estuary.

Faro de Punta Cabalo is the starting point of a picturesque path that shares its name and meanders between cliffs. Once again, you can enjoy the greatest views of the estuary. If you follow this path, you will get to Xufre, the town on the island, whose houses you should admire and whose gastronomy is delightful.

Furthermore, this is where the next stop is. Its name is Puerto do Xufre, and it is the most important harbour on the island. There are nearby shops that sell fresh products from the estuary. It is crossed by the Cabalo route mentioned above.

You should not miss the viewpoints of Isla de Arosa. On the top of a hill in Playa de Sualaxe, a large rock offers amazing views of the white sand and the lighthouse arising at the back of the picture. But the views get even better in Mirador o Con do Forno, which rises 68 metres above sea level. From this point, you can watch the harbour, the 2-kilometre-long bridge that links the island to the Iberian Peninsula, and the Carreirón Natural Park.

In fact, the Carreirón Natural Park is the last place on this list of things to see in A Illa de Arousa. This park expands over 1.3 km² and is home to a great variety of avian species. The area of Punta de Carreirón was declared a Special Protection Area under the Birds Directive. For this reason, two cabins have been built here, allowing visitors to watch flocks of ducks taking flight or herons fishing.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

Galicia's best-kept secrets

Cape Touriñán

Cape Fisterra is usually known as the westernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula, but geographically it is Cape Touriñán, located in Muxia, in the province of A Coruña. It is one of those unknown gems for many that one must visit in order to enjoy spectacular views. The construction of the Touriñán lighthouse was carried out with the aim of guiding boats during the journey, as the waters here are very dangerous.

Here there is a path that borders the cape, bringing the hiker closer to the breathtaking views of the Gaivoteira cliffs. Under this 11-metre-high lighthouse, one can enjoy privileged views of the Atlantic Ocean. Looking down on the right, the Laxe dos Buxeirados, an imposing sandbank that goes into the sea. Twice a year, between March 21 and April 25, and later, from August 13 to September 22, Touriñán is the last place in continental Europe to see the sun set.

Oseira Monastery

In the Sierra Martiña, in the province of Orense, is the monastery of Oseira. With its eight centuries of history, it is in excellent condition. Located in the municipality of San Cristóbal de Cea, its existence is known since 1137. It later became a monastery of the Cistercian Order.

One of the most striking areas of the monastery of Oseira is the church, built between 1200 and 1239. Considered one of the masterpieces of Cistercian architecture in Spain, it has a characteristic Romanesque Gothic style. Influenced by pilgrimage churches, this monastery is part of the Sanabrés or Mozarabic Way, an alternative end to the Silver Way or Vía de la Plata. For its part, the monastery's chapter house is popularly known as the "hall of palms", a name that alludes to the architecture of its columns. It dates back to the end of the 15th century.

Basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo

In the town of Foz, in Lugo, the picturesque basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo awaits as one of the unknown gems in Galicia. Considered to be the oldest cathedral in Spain, the current building is Romanesque, specifically from the end of the 11th century, although the buttresses were built in the 18th century. It has been catalogued as an Asset of Cultural Interest since 1931.

Next to the basilica is the fountain of A Zapata. According to the legend, the bishop San Gonzalo threw a shoe here and water sprang up in the place, the same water that some believe has miraculous properties.

Lighthouse of Cape Ortegal

The views from the Cape Ortegal lighthouse are one of those unknown gems in Galicia that deserve to be included in a visit to A Coruña. Located to the north of the town of Cariño, Cabo Ortegal is a very mountainous peninsula formed by two points. One of them is Punta dos Aguillóns, where the lighthouse is located, and the other is Punta do Limo. In the surroundings you can see a series of spectacular cliffs.

At the Punta dos Aguillóns you can find the real zero kilometre where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Cantabrian Sea. For its part, the Cape of Ortegal lighthouse rises on a rock at no less than 100 metres above sea level, defying the strong wind and the bravery of the sea. From the lighthouse you can see the stones of Os Aguillóns, which emerge in a northward direction.

Thus, on rainy days, at Punta do Limo, you can see the waterfalls of the Limo River, which fall into the sea from 300 metres above sea level. Finally, between the two points is the Ensenada da Cova, an arch from which unique rock formations such as the "Lonja da Moreira" are born. In summer, the sunsets from the Punta do Limo are a real spectacle.

Castro da Lanzada

A Lanzada is one of the best beach areas in the Rias Baixas, in Pontevedra, but it also hides places with a lot of history. Next to the beach of Area Gorda and Praia de Foxos there is a castro dating from the 8th century BC. The site includes a castro, a necropolis, a chapel and a medieval fortification. Due to its ideal location, it was a good commercial site.

It is located in the parish of Noalla, in Sanxenxo, and is established on a headland that goes into the sea. In the vicinity are the remains of a medieval fortress called the tower of the Lanzada. The chapel of Nuestra Señora de la Lanzada also stands in this location.

'Bank' of Loiba

On the coast of Loiba, in the municipality of Ortigueira, there is a very special bench (banco, in Spanish). It is popularly known as "the most beautiful bench in the world" due to the inscription that can be read on it (actual inscription "the best bank of the world"). From this bench you can enjoy privileged views of the coast located between the cape of Estaca de Bares to cape Ortegal.

Without a doubt, the history surrounding this bench is very peculiar. In 2009, a neighbor from the parish of Loiba decided to install a wooden bench on the edge of this cliff on his own. One year later, during the Ortigueira Festival, a group of Scottish musicians who were participating in the festival visited the area and wrote behind the bench the already famous phrase "the best bank of the world". The translation of "bank", a financial institution (that also means "bench" in Spanish), refers to the cut of the cliff. Since that day, every time the bench is restored, the sentence is copied.

You can also read this article in Spanish and French.

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Discovering the unknown

Sálvora is the largest island in the archipelago it shares its name with, which also includes smaller islets like Noro. The beauty of this place can be perfectly admired from the peninsula od O Grove, where the sunsets of San Vicente do Mar let us enjoy the delicate shapes of Sálvora Island, and the shades of the golden star as it sinks into the ocean on the Galician coast. But we have already discussed the matter of the best sunsets in Spain, or the ones we find in places such as Porto do Son. This is just another example.

Currently, Sálvora Island is the only one we can visit in the archipelago. It belongs to the province of A Coruña, in the estuary of Arousa, and it is the only island in the national park which resides outside the domain of Pontevedra. It was used as a refuge for pirates between the 16^th and 18^th centuries, a time where they existed outside the fiction and posed a significant threat. Before that, Vikings, Saracens, and other wanderers of the sea used it as an operation base. It belonged to the Church till the 16^th century, and then it became property of the Mariño family in the early 17^th century. Some people still call the island by that name, and they even believe that those who share said surname carry with them this old legend.

It became part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park in 2001, which belongs to the Xunta, the regional government of Galicia, since 2008. It was only a decade ago that they made it ready to welcome visitors, always following the restrictions necessary to preserve such a precious land.

All the possibilities of the Sálvora Island

The main attraction of the Sálvora Island concerns the freedom one will find there, always bearing in mind the landscape should be treated with utmost respect. Said freedom comes from the wild nature of the island, where one can simply walk and explore the land feeling that everything remains the same as it used to centuries ago. Of course, the landscape has changed throughout the years, but there are still visible traces from the past there, like a feeling of timeless authenticity. In fact, the island does not provide any modern services. There are not even bins there, so we must collect our own waste and take them back to the peninsula with us. One of the key ideas regarding our visit to the island is to leave it exactly as we found it, leaving no evidence of human activities.

However, as we have already mentioned, time does not go unnoticed on this island. For instance, it has been uninhabited since the end of the last century. The only settlement we may visit there is the ruins of an old village. The past of Sálvora can be observed in the different buildings that compose it.

The old factory for drying and curing fish still stands there. It was built at the end of the 18^th century by the Otero family, an important name in the area. It went through a drastic transformation in the middle of the 20^th century, and the family turned into a pazo, a traditional Galician residence. Nowadays, it is a museum displaying the history of the area. There we can learn about interesting events like the worst shipwreck that has ever happened on the coast of Galicia: the shipwreck of Santa Isabel. In 1921, a ship carrying 268 people sank in front of the island. Its inhabitants tried to rescue the victims, but, despite their heroism, 213 people lost their lives that day.

We can also visit the Mermaid of Sálvora. This sculpture, which is related to a legend, was built in 1956 by order of the marquis of Revilla, a descendant of the Otero family. The legend tells us about a Roman knight who survives a shipwreck. As he walks through the beach, he finds a mute mermaid he instantly falls in love with. They got married and had a child called Mariño. From here on, the versions of the tale differ in some aspects, but the most popular variant claims that the knight was trying to bring the mermaid’s voice back to her, so he made a plan: he would jump with their son over the fires in Saint John's Eve. The mermaid was scared when she saw them jump into the fire, so she spat a scrap of fish out of her mouth and she called for her son. This way, she was able to speak again.

We cannot miss the chapel of Santa Catalina either. This old tavern where sailors used to gather eventually became the temple of the island. However, the most spectacular temple can be found on its beaches. The island is mostly made of rocks, but it does have some secrets, hidden corners of silky sand and clear water where one will realise that there is no need to go to the Caribbean to enjoy the best of the sea. Galicia keeps a good deal of maritime paradises, and many of them rest in Sálvora. Wild deserted beaches where time seems to halt, until the sun comes down and the traveller must leave, no matter how difficult it might be.

Why we did not know it before

The main rivals of the Sálvora Island are the other members of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. Especially the Cíes Islands, in front of Vigo’s estuary. This place hosts the famous beach of Rodas, an international treasure where most travellers make a stop to admire such a special corner.

When someone keeps travelling northwards, where the Sálvora Island lies, they usually do so in order to explore the best villages in the area, from Sanxenxo to Cambados, passing by the already mentioned Vicente do Mar, a place that has lately attracted many people to the fantastic peninsula of O Grove. Also to the north, the island of Arousa has bewitched many a traveller as they discovered its beaches, most of them located in the wonderful natural park of Carreirón.

As we explained when we unveiled the spell of Porto do Son, the problem of Galicia is also its own blessing. When one finds such a great beauty, culture and history, one simply needs to visit everything. But time and space make it difficult to encompass all of it, so it is easy to leave out hidden corners like Sálvora, even though this makes it even more magical and worth discovering.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

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Trips around Santiago de Compostela

A Coruña: 46 minutes

A Coruña is the perfect city for a getaway around Santiago de Compostela. It’s just 46 minutes away by car, but you can also get there by public transportation. The best part is the great variety of activities you can do there, whether your getaway lasts a few days or you prefer a one-day trip. Torre de Hércules, the oldest Roman lighthouse in the whole world, is probably the most emblematic place in A Coruña. But there are many other places, such as its port, Parque Escultórico, the María Pita square, its old town centre and its beaches.

Fervenza de Ézaro (Dumbría, A Coruña): 42 minutes

In the municipality of Dumbría, in A Coruña province, just 45 minutes away by car from Santiago de Compostela, another mandatory stop is waiting for you. It’s a waterfall called Fervenza de Ézaro. This cascade is also known as Jallas waterfall due to the river that flows into the sea. In addition, it’s the only European river to do so.

Padrón (A Coruña): 24 minutes

21 kilometres and around 24 minutes away from Santiago de Compostela you will find one of the most famous Galician villages: Padrón. It is known for its peppers, the pimientos del padrón, a type of green pepper native to the crop area of the Francisco de Herbón convent, in Padrón’s parish church. But there is more than that here. This municipality of great historic and artistic heritage lies between the Sar and Ulla rivers and is one of the stops of the Camino Portugués. In Padrón, you will discover places like the Santiago church and the Francisco de Herbón convent, and museums like Casa Museo Rosalía de Castro or Museo Camilo José Cela.

Vigo (Pontevedra): 56 minutes

The city of Vigo, in the province of Pontevedra, had to be on this list as it is one of the best getaways around Santiago de Compostela. In Vigo, you will find the paradisiacal Islas Cíes, but you can also enjoy many other interesting places, such as the Bouza neighbourhood, the O Castro mount, its town centre and the Samil beach. In the last one, you can enjoy a gorgeous beach of clear sand, but the best choice is to watch the sunset if the weather allows you to do it.

Silleda (Pontevedra): 30 minutes

In Pontevedra, there is another perfect place for a getaway around Santiago de Compostela, since it’s only 30 minutes away from the city. Silleda is a municipality of 8,900 inhabitants. Its waterfalls, the fervenzas de Toxa, are its main attraction. The water in these cascades falls more than 60 metres, which turns it into one of the highest waterfalls in Spain.

Combarro (Pontevedra): 46 minutes

One of the most famous and beautiful villages in Galicia awaits a little further, 68 kilometres and 46 minutes away from Santiago de Compostela. In this tiny town facing the sea, you will see its famous hórreos, its most characteristic symbol. Its cruceiros are very renowned as well. You should also take a look at San Roque street, Plaza da Fonte, the picturesque do Padrón beach and the do Mar street.

Vilagarcía de Arousa (Pontevedra): 42 minutes

Vilagarcía de Arousa is less than 55 kilometres from Santiago de Compostela. This locality belongs to the Salnés region, in Pontevedra. Here you can walk through its port and promenade, explore its churches, take a route to see its pazos or walk through Europe’s largest laurel forest. This village isn’t specially touristic, but you have to visit its fishing neighbourhoods and its archaeological sites.

Caldas de Reis (Pontevedra): 34 minutes

Caldas de Reis is another of the most beautiful villages in Pontevedra and it’s only half an hour away from Santiago de Compostela. The thermal baths are something to highlight in this village, but there are plenty of tourist attractions, such as the Burgas fountain, the Bermaña bridge, and the botanical garden ‘Carballeira’, located in the urban centre of Caldas de Reis. And, of course, the beautiful waterfalls of Segade are something you must see as well. Due to its close proximity to Santiago de Compostela, this is one of the great getaways we are looking for here.

Mirador de Paxareiras (Carnota, A Coruña): 48 minutes

The last name on this list belongs to Mirador de Paxareiras, a place we couldn’t not mention. You will enjoy a fascinating panoramic view of the sea and the different beaches of the area from this viewpoint. But there is so much more to see — the towns of Caldebarcos and La Lira and Carnota beach are some of the things you will discover. Besides, cape Finisterre stands in the back. This viewpoint is 5 kilometres away from the protagonist city, a spot where you will be surrounded by a great natural landscape.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

Two aspects to take in consideration at the beginning

The starting point of this promenade in A Coruña is the castle of San Antón, now the Historical Archaeological Museum. It was built in the 16th century and, jointly with the castles of Santa Cruz and San Diego, made up a strong defensive fortress when attacks by sea were constant in the Galician city.  When this was not a problem anymore, it had others roles from a prison to a lazaretto, where illness or suspected sailors were admitted. Besides, it was declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1949.

On the other hand, there are some aspects to take into account if you want to enjoy this nice walk. Firstly, the lampposts along A Coruña's seafront promenade tell stories, but how? They are inspired by the modernist movement and their shapes contain details of the city's history, which are also related to the place where they are located. For example, those located around the Tower of Hercules have reliefs that remind us in the Roman lighthouse and its history.

On the other hand, the second warning: the beaches. Visitors may want to pay attention to many of them, as they will walk along popular places such as Riazor beach or Las Lapas beach, where you can see the Tower of Hercules from the sand, a spectacular sight.

The stops during the walk

There are many places to visit. For example, the cemetery of San Amaro, which is considered one of the oldest cemeteries in Europe. Its construction began in 1812, when burials were banned inside the city. There are several monuments which stand out, such as ‘los Mártires’ (the Martyrs), that was built to honour of leaders of the 1901 general strike, considered the beginning of the Galician workers' strike movement.

A very special spot is the Surfers' Fountain, located between Matadero beach and Orzán. It is dedicated, of course, to lovers of this sport. These sculptures look like the perfect postcard, with the rays of sunlight and the fictious waves. However, there is another place which has a similar landscape: the Millennium Obelisk. It is almost 50 metres high and is made of steel and glass, so the sun also plays a central role.

Another of the favourite spots on A Coruña's seafront promenade is the Octopus sculpture:  two metres high and three metres wide. It is made up of small ceramic pieces that also depend on the sun for its appearance. This sculpture is also a preview of all that is to come: the sculpture park of the Tower of Hercules, consisting of 18 sculptures. These figures have a mythological or maritime theme, so that there are references to the founding of the lighthouse and the hero Hercules, as well as symbols that speak of the close relationship between the Galician people and the sea.

Last but not least: the Tower of Hercules. A World Heritage Site since 2009, it is the oldest lighthouse in the world which is still working. We have already commented previously on one of the most important monuments in Spain.

A window to the Atlantic

Fiestra Aberta ó Mar, this is the Galician name for this work by Francisco Pazos, located in the town of O Portiño, at the end of the longest urban promenade in continental Europe. It is a window where you can contemplate the Atlantic Ocean in front of the islands of San Pedrois the last stop of this incredible walk. It is well worth coming here to gaze at the sea, the sunset, or its strongest swell.

You can also read this article in Spanish here.

Baiona, the village of Pinzón and its Pinta

A strategic port full of history, Baiona is a beautiful medieval city with a past that can be relived while walking through its charming streets and paths. Keep reading and learn about the best things to do in Baiona and its fascinating past.

Planning your trip to Baiona

To decide what the best local cuisine is and where you can sleep and rest, you can visit our pages on where to sleep or what to eat in Baiona. Additionally, here you have some of the best-rated hotels in Baiona:

• Ladeira
• Casa da Lomba
• Vistas Magníficas Islas Atlanticas

Do you want to learn more about this place?

History of Baiona

The Middle Ages is perhaps the most important time in the history of Baiona, as it was full of transcendental events. In 1201, a letter was received from the town of King Alfonso IX of León,  independent from the neighboring monastery of Oia, and changing the name of Erizana to what it is presently. In 1370, King Ferdando of Portugal conquered the village and stayed there until he was expelled by the Castilians.  A few years later, in 1386, the Duke of Lancaster and his wife Constanza arrived at its port, accompanied by an army to reclaim the throne of Castile. Baiona surrendered without a fight, thus opening the passage to the Duke, who would be crowned king in the city of Ourense. Two years later, on July 8, 1388, a treaty was signed in the villa, proclaiming the marriage of the daughter of Constanza and the Duke of Lancaster to the son of King Juan I of Castile, thereby giving him the title of Prince of Asturias.

Things to do in Baiona

Located on the Monte Boí Peninsula, the Monterreal Castle is an indispensable place to visit. It is a set of fortifications erected between the 11th and 17th centuries. Its great architecture is due to the Catholic Monarchs, who, in the face of the incessant pirate attacks to which the Galician coast was subjected to, decided at the beginning of the 16th century to reform the old fortress of Monte Boí for the defense of the village. Later it would become the residence of the Earl of Gondomar, among others. Within its long perimeter and 3 km of ramparts, three towers rise above the rest: the Clock Tower, erected by the legendary and famous knight Pedro Madruga, which had a bell to warn of the enemy raids; that of the Iron, where the batteries of defense were placed, and that of the Prince, in the west, in which the local tradition holds that a Portuguese prince was held captive here with an iron mask, like in the novel of Dumas. Currently at the fortress is the Parador, its seafood and the International Yacht Club. One thing to make sure you do is to watch the sunset from the fortress. Doubtlessly, visiting this castle is one of the best things to do in Baiona.

Between the fortress and the town, around the isthmus of the peninsula, there are the beaches, a remarkable must-see in Baiona, like those of the Ladeira, or the one of Barbeira, and the monument Encounter of the Two Worlds,  created by the sculptor Picallo, next to the place where the first Indigenous from America from was buried. Inside the monument there are pieces of land coming from all countries, symbolizing unity. We also find a replica of the vessel of Columbus, which can be visited and is known as the Floating Museum.

The old town, declared a site of Historical-Artistic Interest in 1993, consists of narrow and cobbled streets, with arcades, and seafaring houses with images of the Virgin and ships on the facades. It occupies an almost closed circle and has three entrances through the Plaza de Santa Liberada, that of Father Fernando and from the crossing of the Trinity. In this old town, we can highlight the former Collegiate Church of Santa Maria de la Anunciada, with Romanesque-pointed style, three naves, three apses and a beautiful rose window on the facade. In the same esplanade, the chapel dedicated to Santa Liberada (1695) was raised, It has an altarpiece with the scene of the crucifixion and the martyrdom to which the sisters were subjected.

Other buildings in the old town that are delightful places to visit include the House of Culture, the Chapel of San Juan, the Town Hall, the former Lorenzo Correa House built in the eighteenth century; The Crucero of the Trinidad, a Gothic site from the 15th century, is one of the few places covered by a canopy; and the Baroque Palace of Don Lope de Mendoza. Finally, the Church of the Convent of the Dominicans, built in 1547 on the site of another previous building of the 13th century, holds a beautiful baroque altarpiece in its main altar that is dedicated to the Virgin of the Annunciation, Patron of Baiona.

From the entrance to Baiona at the beginning of the ascent to Mount de A Grova, the seafront of Baiona juts out, as it is part of the ecological reserve of the estuary of the Miñor River. On the mountain you will find the famous Virgin de la Roca, a monument and lighthouse built by Antonio Palacios between 1910 and 1930. The Virgin, 15m high, is built in granite on the rocks of Mount Samson. It has a boat-viewpoint that can be accessed inside, from where you have spectacular views of Baiona. Next to the monument there is a large recreational park, endowed with a cross, benches and stone tables, which commemorates the celebration on the first Sunday of August, the popular pilgrimage dedicated to the Virgin.

The essentials

Important information

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 7′ 0″ N, 8° 50′ 0″ W

Distances

30 km from Vigo, 60 km from Pontevedra, 608 km from Madrid

Parking

Free in the outskirts of the village without any problems

Altitude

0 m

Inhabitants

12,035  (2013)

CELEBRATIONS

OTHER EVENTS

ARTISANS AND SHOPS

We have planned a romantic journey through the Galician countryside. In winter months, when flowers are scarce, the camellia, however, beautifies Galician gardens. We propose a romantic plan, a step by step journey, though the Rias Baixas where we will follow the wake of this subtle and delicate flower that arrived from the East. It reigns in Galicia during the months of January to April, where more than eight thousand varieties are cultivated.

In the valley of the river Ulla, the "Galician Versailles" is located: the Pazo de Oca (pazo is a countryside estate) is the quintessential example of the Galician countryside home. A fifteenth-century palace, belonging to the Ducal House of Medinacelli, was built on the remains of an old military building next to a splendid chapel, wall and unique gardens enhanced by water. Two beautiful ponds joined by a granite bridge with hydrangeas, magnolias, red sequoias, white maples, lime trees, and box hedges electrify  the romantic walk. But, above all, the camellias steal the show. From the entrance of this noble estate, we follow a route through Pontevedra that crosses the Rias Baixas, from Vilagarcía de Arousa to Vigo.

Since the beginning of the 19th century, the first camellias have been cultivated in the Pazo de Rubianes, located in Vilagarcía de Arous.  This authentic vegetable paradise is where you can find close to a hundred different species of flowers that live together with the camellias. In addition to the gardens, you can stroll through the orchard, forests, vineyards and cork oak forests. We enjoyed the shop where you can buy the soaps that the Clarisas Sisters made with the oil extracted from the camellia seeds and some of the pieces of design the craftswoman Julia García created inspired by this flower.

The next stop on our route is in the Pazo de Ribadumia, in the middle of the Salnés Valley, a well known place where Spaniards shoot movies and TV series. This home is part of a small and well-kept wine estate, Quinteiro da Cruz, where a renowned Albariño wine is made. These seven hectares include the manor house, the wine cellar, two granaries, a pigeon house, a chapel, ornamental fountains and a garden of great botanical size full of camellias. In fact, more than 1,000 varieties of Camellias bloom here, along with other exotic species. This estate has been worthy many times of the Camelia de Oro or the Golden Camellia.

The Pazo of Lourizán, in Agrovello, dates back to the 15th century. It has now served as a meeting place for influential personalities of the 19th century since politician Montero Ríos acquired it as his summer residence. Circling the modernist building, the garden is the essence of romanticism, with a good collection of historical sources - that of the shell; the one of the lathes; the grotto of the mirrors, adorned with colored glass... and examples of Lebanon cedars, Japanese and Chinese chestnuts, Dutch elms, magnolias, palm trees. And not to forget, the camellias, which have lived in this country estate for more than a century.

The carefully maintained garden of the medieval castle of Soutomaior, also known as that of Pedro Madruga, was transformed in 1870 into a Neo-Gothic palace, the perfect place to relax. With chestnuts that are over 800 years old, up to 27 species of conifers and curious tree ferns line the vicinity of the pond. But it is the abundance of camellias that attracts the most attention in this garden, considered one of the most important botanical gardens in Galicia.

We conclude our route of the camellias in two areas of Vigo. One is the Pazo de O Castro, a municipal park located in the elevated part of the city from where you can take in a beautiful view of the port and the estuary. In addition to a botanical path, the garden displays an important collection of camellias, most of Portuguese origin. The other one is the Pazo-Museo Quiñones de León or Castrelos, an old fort that today functions as a regional art museum. Discovering these camellias while walking through this museum is the perfect cherry on top to the end of our romantic route.

If you want to follow the route of the camellias through the province of A Coruña visit the estates of Vista Alegre and Santa Cruz de Ribadulla in Vedra. The garden of the Pazo Mariñán, in A Coruña, offers surprises such as the Jardín de la Palabra where each tree retains the message of the illustrious personage who planted it: Jose Hierro's cypress, Ian Gibson's rhododendron, Benedetti's Uruguayan cieba or Cela's boxwood, and even the House-Museum of Rosalía de Castro. Everyone loves to visit these gardens, especially when the camellias revive in the winter months. The camellias are waiting for you. Happy romantic getaway!

Finding paradise in Galicia (and its islands)

The estuary of Pontevedra opens up to welcome the Tambo Island, which spreads for 28 hectares. The island belongs to the municipality of Poio and it has a pyramid shape, almost completely covered by a cloak of vegetation —especially eucalypti. Its highest point, mount San Facundo, reaches a height of 80 metres. As seen from the ground level, it truly seems like a pyramid.

The Tambo Island will offer us the same thing Galicia generally does: infinite walks where the traveller unveils the connection of this magical land with nature. The surroundings are to be blamed for the paradisiacal essence this autonomous community is best known for, and this little island perfectly illustrates it. It has delightful hiking routes that will lead us for a couple of hours through a silence only interrupted by the smooth waves of the ocean.

One can still visit the ruins of the chapel of San Miguel. This chapel displays the charm of those abandoned buildings that have been embraced by nature. To the north, two gorgeous beaches with clear waters await us. To the south, we have a small peninsula crowned by the lighthouse of Tenlo Chico.

Every corner of the Tambo Island hides stories about pirates and legends about saints that we can learn through a guided tour, although it was only recently that visitors were allowed in the island. Things have changed, and yet the Tambo Island remains mysteriously blurred on Google Maps.

But why did Google blur the Tambo Island?

While trying to unearth the reason behind Google blurring the Tambo Island, one finds out this place is connected to the Naval Military Academy of Marín. This could explain some kind of censorship by Google. The Spanish Ministry of Defence recently acknowledged that the island was used for military purposes between the 50s and the 90s. It served as a manoeuvre area and it held an ammunition dump for storing gunpowder and ammunition. There are still remains of the building there.

However, this theory is still inconclusive. The Naval Military Academy of Marín, which lies in front of the island, does not use Tambo for those means anymore. In fact, the Ministry of Defence handed it over to the municipality of Poio. Since August 2022, they have been offering excellent guided tours that allow us to explore a place that, in many people’s opinion, should belong to the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. Considering all that, the mystery remains unsolved.

Either way, we do know that the value of the cultural and natural heritage of the island is simply immeasurable. Therefore, the tours depart from the harbour of Combarro and only allow small groups of people that have previously booked a visit and should follow a series of rules that have been previously established, like not smoking in Tambo. The visit really is worth it. Before or after enjoying the beauty of the island, one might as well go for a walk in Combarro, one of the most beautiful villages in Galicia —and just another paradise.

Either with fairy dust or by boat, we will reach this extraordinary archipelago near the Galician coast: the Cíes Islands. This landscape marked by green hills and turquoise beaches constitutes a striking sight even for those who believe in fairy tales. It is, indeed, an unspoilt natural paradise, full of magic and adventures awaiting around every corner.

If you still refuse to believe this is the actual Neverland, you might be surprised to know this place has a history with piracy too; in fact, the very Francis Drake set foot on the island! If you wish to discover this stunning landscape and the world’s greatest beach according to The Guardian, join us in this awfully big adventure.

Cliffs and woods: the playground of the Lost Boys

The Cíes Islands belong to the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. This archipelago was declared a Natural Park in 1980, due to its breathtaking landscapes and rich ecosystem. The highest peak here is called Alto do Príncipe. We can sit on its peculiar rock formations, and contemplate the green silhouette of the islands rising above the world.

The hills and rocky cliffs in the archipelago are surrounded by delightful forests drenched in scents of pine trees and sea breeze. We might wander through the woods, enjoy the fresh shadows and the feeling of the soft grass under our feet, let our imagination soar free and find infinite pleasure in following the steps of the Lost Boys of Neverland.

Besides, there are four main routes for exploring the islands: Faro do Monte Faro, Faro da Porta, Alto do Príncipe, and Faro do Peito. At night, said paths are guided by the bewitching beams of the lighthouses, the silent guardians of the Cíes Islands. These white towers stand majestically over the hills and the rocks of the coastline, welcoming lost travellers as if they were otherworldly heralds.

The archipelago consists of three islands: Monteagudo, do Faro, and San Martiño. However, the first two are linked by Praia das Rodas, which is regarded by many as the most beautiful beach in the world.

Beautiful beaches, lakes, and mermaids

In 2007, the British newspaper The Guardian chose Praia das Rodas as the best beach in the world. This long, pearly strip of sand is kissed by the turquoise waves of the Galician sea, and the silky dunes shine under the sunlight in a dreamlike scenery.

Under the command of the tides, a lagoon emerges to one side of the beach. Lago dos Nenos magically changes the landscape, which goes from a naked sandbank to a beautiful lake surrounding the strip of sand opposite the sea. In fact, it could easily be considered our very own Mermaid’s Lagoon. This stretch of saltwater provides an ecosystem of great biodiversity, home to species like breams or wrasse. It also hosts endemic birds and seaweed.

There is a stone path connecting Monteagudo and do Faro which allows us to walk over the water and across the lake. Its name is Camiño do Faro de Cíes, and it offers a breathtaking view of the bright blue sea, the woods and the rocky slopes of the Cíes Islands.

The sun is setting over the sleepy hills, softly painting the rocks and the sand with shades of gold and crimson. Gentle whispers echo under the sombre trees, which aim at the stars, always seeking to embrace eternity. All living creatures fall under the spell of the night, fresh and crystal-clear. They know everything is going to be okay, tomorrow the sun will raise again and the world is going to be the same. The waves will continue to sway smoothly on the sand, the paths will remain in place, and the adamant lighthouses will protect their shores, just like they always do. Even if we need to leave this magical place behind, it will always be there, waiting for us to return.

“Second to the right, and straight on till morning.”

Discovering the unknown

The peninsula of Barbanza lies in the province of A Coruña, watching over the Atlantic Ocean just like the rest of the western Galician coast. This region learnt the intricacies of growth from the sea, and most of its idiosyncrasies could be explained through it. With a 30-kilometre coast, alongside the estuary of Muros e Noia, Porto do Son spreads landwards too, encompassing rich forests and mountains. However, water is still the backbone of this territory.

The most striking aspect of this municipality is perhaps the number of museum-worthy pictures it offers. When we travel through Porto do Son, it’s inevitable to stare at the horizon with our eyes wide open. The golden beaches, the lookout points watching the estuary and beyond, the wild vegetation of the area’s forests… One can never get used to the beauty of this Galician landscape.

Endless possibilities in Porto do Son

The first thing most people seek when they arrive at Porto do Son is the beach. It makes perfect sense to crave walking through the beautiful beaches in the area, enjoying all their nuances and singularities. The beach of Aguieira, the longest in the municipality, lies on virgin land. There we will find white sands, dunes, and a good amount of calm. Besides that, the beach of As Furnas stands out for its natural pools, although it is less quiet. In fact, As Furnas is popular for surfing, given that these waters sway with the strength of the Atlantic Ocean. The traveller shouldn’t be misled by its spectacular shades of blue. Actually, we will find unsuspectedly deep ponds throughout the beach, hence we should be careful at all times.

The list of beaches could go on and on, but we better end it up here in order to advance in a new direction. We will close this section by mentioning the beach of Fonforrón, which is only unveiled when the tide retreats, revealing some curious cavities modelled by the sea. This is one of the best spots to enjoy the sunset, which we should definitely catch in some place in Porto do Son: they are probably the most delightful sunsets in Spain.

As we have mentioned before, Porto do Son always swings to the rhythm of the ocean, and that can be seen in the oldest traces of the region’s past. For instance, we have Castro de Baroña, a fortified settlement from the 1^st Century BC. It’s one of the most important forts in Galicia, and one of the few that display an essentially maritime layout. Then again, this is the power of the Atlantic Ocean.

Galicia cannot be understood without taking water into consideration. As Galician writer Álvaro Cunqueiro once said, this is the land of the thousand rivers, and it might as well be chased away from the sea. This way, we will reach the waterfall of Ribasieira, one of the largest ones in the Sieira river, which comes from the mountain range of O Barbanza and disgorges into the sea at yet another beautiful beach in Porto do Son. We may head to this waterfall through a path which allows us to explore the cascade either from the water or from the ponds it pours into. Nature, nature and more nature.

Perhaps the best way of grasping this beautiful landscape is to reach the lookout points in the area. The one in Iroite, an almost 700-metres high mountain in O Barbanza, is simply spectacular. The estuary of Muros e Noia can be perfectly seen from there, blending with the rich colour palette of the Galician landscape.

A paradise that goes unnoticed

Galicia is a precious land in every sense. Its artistic, cultural, natural and gastronomic heritage makes it hard for the traveller to experience everything it has to offer, especially if they are first-timers. Porto do Son lies at the heart of the Rias Baixas, surrounded by other municipalities that have drawn more attention from tourists so far. Really close to the north, we will find Noia, a lovely village with a stunning old town. Even more to the north, Fisterra keeps welcoming pilgrims that travel in pursuit of the most famous sunset in Spain. Southwards, there are more estuaries, and villages like Cambados or Combarro that remain under the spotlight.

Quoting another Galician writer, Vicente Risco, “Galicia is a whole world”. Sometimes it’s difficult to fully get to know such a vast world, and that’s precisely why Porto do Son is still kept as a little secret. However, this spellbinding land is always there, waiting for those travellers that long for something beyond the trendy places, for something authentic and fairly unexplored.

Before we start, we should bear in mind that, through this journey, we’ll experience something that goes along with tourism, art and landscapes: a gastronomic journey. A Maiña Lucense has developed its own gastronomy, based on good quality ingredients, tradition and culture.

Whereas A Mariña’s coast offers a selection of typical products such as Burela’s tuna or Rinlo’s barnacles, the latter being excellent thanks to the daily fishing in the Cantabrian Sea, the inland territory provides the cherished meat of the Galician calves and the agricultural products which have helped create identity brands like Horta de Mondoñedo. This cultural menu could be sealed with A Mariña’s confectionery, starring its top ingredient: almonds. There are some culinary routes in A Mariña to help visitors fully enjoy its gastronomy. For instance, Lourenzá’s Ruta de la Faba allows us to become familiar with the artisan production of faba —or beans. Nevertheless, it’s not mandatory to join these culinary routes to taste A Mariña; in fact, there are endless ways to connect with this land. Let’s start the journey, shall we?

A wonderful inland

A Mariña Lucense is often associated with the Cantabrian Sea, which makes total sense, but once you begin to discover this land in Galicia, you immediately realize that there is so much more to it than a bunch of postcards by the sea. In the concello of A Pontenova, just where our journey begins, one finds hiking paths and beautiful landscapes in the Biosphere Reserve of the Eo River, Oscos and Terras in Burón. History there is closely connected with iron, as in the case of Mina Consuelo, a mine that opened just recently. The old rail route, which used to connect the iron mines of Vilaoudriz (in the current A Pontenova) with the loading dock of Porto Estreito, is now a green and beautiful path for everyone to enjoy. By the way, Mina Consuelo has Galicia’s largest zipline.

In Mariña Lucense we can also explore and learn about the significance of Galicia’s religious architecture. Few historical buildings can compare to Mondoñedo’s cathedral. This temple, beautiful as ever, effortlessly stands out among the surrounding buildings in a spectacular setting, as if guarding the town. Its facade exhibits an amalgam of different architectural styles, and in its nuclear warhead, the stained glass of an eighteenth-century rose window shines with a myriad of colorful sparks. It’s also a meeting place for the pilgrims of the Northern Camino de Santiago coming from Ribadeo or Trabada and heading landward. Mondoñedo is a land of granaries, nature and caves; indeed, Rei Cintolo has the largest cave one can visit in Galicia, with a depth of about four miles.

This concello, just as other nearby municipalities, is located in the outskirts of the mountains of Xistral, a landscape where a layer of fog seems to have found its permanent home. Despite the moderate altitude, its proximity to the Cantabrian Sea makes this mountain range a quite deserted and mysterious place, where one can usually see horses and cows grazing peacefully. In fall, colors dye the scenery, and the landscape exhibits an overwhelming beauty.

Coming back to the aspect of historical heritage, if it’s even possible at all to leave nature behind in A Mariña Lucense, Lourenzá’s concello has a lot of things to offer in this respect. For example, there is the monastery of San Salvador, founded in 969 and declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1974. If we walked into the monastery, we’d be able to see a museum of religious art containing the paleo-christian sarcophagus of Osorio Gutiérrez, the count who founded the building. Close to the monastery we can find the Pazo de Tovar, a castle dating back to the 12th century that illustrates the Elizabethan Gothic architecture, providing an opportunity to unveil Galicia’s oldest and most peculiar buildings.

It’s certainly not possible to leave nature behind here, so maybe we just shouldn’t try. Once the traveler enters the concello of Trebada, they should seek the fresh air of the Biosphere Reserve of Río Eo, Oscos and Terras in Burón. It’s a real pleasure to look at the intense colors of this land, which are predominantly —and this might come as a shock— green.

Surpisingly, the municipality of Trabada —formerly known as Tabulata— is mentioned in Spain’s oldest manuscript, which is kept in the archive of León’s Cathedral. One cannot leave the place without visiting the mámoas; these burial dolmens tell us many things about the land’s antiquity. The visitor should pay special attention to the menhir known as Marco de la Pena Verde, which defines the limits of this concello, Ribadeo and Barreiros. The latter might be our next destination, leading us to A Mariña Lucense’s coast.

A dream in the shores of the Cantabrian Sea

If we want to get used to being close to the Cantabrian Sea, it would be a good idea to walk up to the lookout point in Penabor. With about 300 yards of altitude, this spot offers a fantastic view of Barreiros and the surrounding area —green and blue, land and sea. Before we climb down to the beaches, we can still pay a visit to San Estevo do Ermo, a path beginning in the eleventh-century hermitage that shares the same name, and ending in a gorgeous waterfall. If the traveler can’t wait to go to the beach, there is no need to do so; they’ll certainly find what they’re looking for in places such as Remior’s beach, which offers immense calm and beauty just in front of the sea.

Once we’ve reached the coast, our eyes immediately go to Ribadeo. Nestled in the estuary with the same name, this municipality lies on the border between Galicia and Asturias, and it has one of the most interesting historical centers of Galicia. This territory has a tradition based on those who migrated to America in the past, so we can find here buildings influenced by such tradition, like Torre dos Moreno. We can also find remarkable buildings like the Pazo de Ibáñez, the church of Santa María del Campo or the convent of Santa Clara, dating back to the 11th century. Ribadeo’s age-old harbor is caressed by a fresh sea breeze and, were we to look into the ocean, we’d meet the Pancha Island’s two beautiful lighthouses, which star in one of the most charming postcards of the Cantabrian Sea.

The gaze following the outline of the Cantabrian shore will most likely stop in the As Catedrais beach. It’s crystal clear that A Mariña Lucense, full of magic, nature and lovely villages, has many great sights to offer —however, the As Catedrais beach might be the most striking one. In fact, it’s probably one of the world’s most breathtaking natural monuments, the kind that just leaves you speechless. It’s important to visit it, but it's even more important to take care of it.

We won’t leave the coast just yet. Instead, we’ll pass through Barreiros once more and, before we’re able to recover from the shock of admiring the striking rock formations, we’ll arrive at Foz. The former whaling port is now a paradise for anyone who’s in love with the sea. The beaches in Foz extend to almost ten miles of soft, white sand, ideal for long walks or an evening of gentle rest. A Rapadoira, Llas, Peizás… There are beaches for all tastes. The estuary of Foz is a paradise as well, especially for those who like water sports: surfing, windsurfing, kayaking or sailing are some of the activities one can enjoy there.

Only 3 miles away, we’ll find what’s considered the oldest cathedral in Spain: The Basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo. This church dates back to the 6th century, and it precedes the cathedral of El Castro de Fazouro, which is located next to the beach of Arealonga. The Basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo reminds us that we are not only in an incredibly beautiful region, but also in a major historical site.

How much history can A Mariña Lucense hold?

The castle of Castrodouro, which still preserves the exterior of a majestic fortified tower, was built on a Romanized fort from the first century. Within a ten-minute walk we’ll find the fortress of A Frouxera, first mentioned in 1156, and whose ruins are considered Cultural Heritage. It’s said that the fortress belonged to a legendary figure in Galician culture: Pedro Pardo de Cela. From the heights of the archaeological remains, one can admire the beauty of the lands of Alfoz, partly framed by the Biosphere Reserve of Terras do Miño. This territory encompasses more than 1300 square miles, and the Biosphere Reserve is the largest one in Galicia and the second largest in the Iberian Peninsula.

From that same natural lookout point one might behold O Valadouro. This land is full of waterfalls, like the one called Escouridal, one of Galicia’s greatest cascades, dividing O Valadouro and Alfoz; or the one that forms Onza’s pond, with a fifty-feet fall. Back in the Xistral mountains, the traveler shall find Furna’s woodlands, a generally solitary place, and therefore considerably well preserved. Some believe that Furna’s stones could be the imprint of an old glacier.

The chapel of Santa Filomena was built in the 11th century, and it became one of the region’s most ancient buildings. Moreover, it’s a great example of the rural Romanesque architecture in Galicia. Here, in the heart of A Mariña, there is also space for culture: in the curro of Santo Tomé, an enclosed area where wild horses are tied, the first Sunday of every August it takes place the local tradition called Rapa das Bestas.

Roman and Suebi people settled in the past in Ourol’s concello, leaving trackable footprints behind. One can also observe the trace of the past in the remaining buildings that replicate American traditions, as well as the appealing cemeteries brought by those immigrants mentioned before. We cannot leave without checking out the astonishingly magical waterfall of A Xestosa, with a fall of 65 feet. Indeed, this might be the most extraordinary waterfall in A Mariña.

The Mariña paradise

Our journey comes to an end in the Cantabrian Sea. The cherry on top of this paradise will be Burela, a coastal town with a fishing port that has remained operational and busy since its construction in the Middle Ages. Apart from getting to understand the connection between Burela’s citizens and the ocean, the traveler will be able to tread the Blue Path (Sendero Azul), which links a series of beaches and harbors that have been granted a seal of quality and sustainability. When it comes to Burela, this path starts at the beach of A Marosa, where one simply cannot resist staying for a while.

Rueta’s beach is midway between Burela and Cervo. The river, the sea and the stunning bridge above it paint a beautiful picture there. In Rueta’s region there are remarkable places like the fishing town called San Cibrao and its own peninsula, Península de la Paz, embellished with white sandbanks, as in the beach of Cubelas. One can also visit San Cibrao’s Sea Museum, which is focused on exploring the relationship between people and the sea, and see from far away the isles of Os Farallóns. According to legend, the mythological figure called Maruxaina, half fish and half woman, awaits in there.

Close by we have the municipality of Xove, a land well worth visiting. But there is a clear winner here: Acantilados de Papel (The Paper Cliffs). These fascinating rock formations constitute a curious natural monument in Galicia’s coast. If we travel to Roncadoira’s lighthouse, we’ll get a spectacular view that extends from the isles of Os Farallóns to the estuary of Viveiro, exactly where we’re headed to.

This estuary comprises coves, beaches and a fascinating seabed, which, apart from being home to a peculiar ecosystem of flora and fauna, keeps about thirty sunken ships, some of them belonging to a battle fought during the Spanish War of Independence. In the medieval Viveiro, we’ll come across a beautiful historical center with interesting spots like the door of the king Charles V, or the well-preserved remains of the old town walls. In Viveiro we also have the natural monument called Souto da Retorta, where the traveler will be amazed with the 600 eucalyptus trees —some of them hundreds of years old— that conform the forest, or San Roque’s lookout, with an altitude of more than a thousand feet, where we can enjoy a breathtaking view of Viveiro’s estuary, Viveiro’s and Celeiro’s harbor and the beach of Covas.

To end with, the last stop of our journey will be O Vicedo and its Fuciño do Porco, which could be translated as “pig’s snout”. The name evokes the shape this rock formation takes as seen from the sea. This historical site can be reached through a lovely path. Step by step, the view becomes increasingly beautiful. The notion of paradise can be better understood by visiting O Vicedo, its harbor, the seafront promenade and beaches like Xilloi’s, wrapped in velvet sands and turquoise-colored waters. This is, essentially, A Mariña Lucense.

This article has been promoted by the 2022-2024 Sustainability Plan of A Mariña Lucense, co-financed by the Secretary of State for Tourism, the Xunta de Galicia and the Concello Commonwealth of A Mariña Lucense. 

Allariz

It is almost compulsory to begin with Allariz because it is considered one of the most beautiful villages of all Galicia. In addition to the walks along the Arnoia River, do not miss specific places such as the convent of Santa Clara, founded in the mid-13^th century. It is a cloistered convent, which means that only the Museum of Sacred could be visited. The church of San Pedro, in Romanesque style, can also be visited and was built in the 13^th century and has a beautiful 18^th century Baroque altarpiece.

For this reason, Allariz was declared a Historic-Artistic Site and was also awarded the European Prize for Village Planning, for the recovery of its historical centre. Besides, it should not be forgotten that one of the most important films of Spanish cinema was filmed here: ‘La lengua de las mariposas’ (The Butterfly's Tongue).

Ribadavia

The name of this town means on the banks of the river Avia. Ridabavia was the capital of the medieval Kingdom of Galicia. It has one of the best-preserved historical centres in the community and also an old Jewish quarter which it is necessary to visit, and finish this walk at the Sephardic Museum. Several places that are compulsory to visit are the main square, the castle of the Counts of Sarmiento, from the late 14^th century, and the Romanesque church of San Xoán, built in the 12^th century by the knights of the Military and Hospitaller Order of ‘San Juan de Jerusalén’.

Castro Caldelas

This village is a great opportunity to discover the Ribeira Sacra, specifically the area which is conditioned by the course of the Sil. This village was settled on a hill overlooking the banks of the river Edo. Besides, its castle built in the 14^th century stands out, as well as its cobbled streets. In the fortress, one can discover the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum, which includes in the same place different remains from the past that show the importance that Castro Caldelas had in the area.

Parada do Sil

This is another fascinating village to discover the immensity of the area and the villages that surround the river. The features of them are quite similar: small villages with scattered houses and surrounded by nature. The monastery of ‘Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil’, one of the most impressive Romanesque temples in the area, is very close to Parada do Sil.

As Ermidas

The most oriental area of the province is unknown yet, however, this village could be considered one of the most beautiful villages of Ourense. According to popular history, As Ermidas has its origins in seven hermits who lived in this area in the 7^th century. The village is located between the massifs of the ‘Queixa’, ‘Eixo’ and ‘San Mamede’ mountain ranges. In the village today there are traditional style houses and, above all, the sanctuary of ‘Nosa Señora das Ermidas’, an impressive temple that leaves anyone speechless at first glance. It is considered an Asset of Cultural Interest.

Entrimo

One of the most charming villages in Galicia, small and simple, with wonderful landscape around the settlement. This village is perfect for all travellers looking for a peaceful and relaxed tourism and it is very closed to the border with Portugal. Entrimo is perfect to stroll through the streets without stress, enjoy the gastronomy and culture, as well as, hiking in its natural surroundings. The main monument in this village is the church of Santa María La Real, a temple of a great size.

Boborás

It is a village quite similar to Entrimo since it is small but with several worth visiting monuments. An example is the church of ‘San Martiño de Cameixa’ in rural Romanesque style, which was renovated between the 18^th and 19^th centuries, but still has a strong medieval style. It is also interesting to learn about the history of the old stone bridge over the river Avia. According to history, there are only remains of it due to the fighting of the population against the French army during the War of Independence.

Manzaneda

Manzaneda is one of the most captivating villages of Ourense. The existence of this place is documented since the 14^th century, although the ruins of its castle indicate that it already existed since the 12^th century, which is located in the highest part of the town. The ‘Porta da Vila’, the gateway to a formerly walled place, is a significant monument of the village. Manzaneda is a perfect place to enjoy the surroundings and nature.

Vilanova dos Infantes

This is another village with medieval streets and buildings. Although Vilanova dos Infantes has grown, it has also remained its origins. The most important monument is its medieval tower, built in the 12^th century, which shows that there was a relevant fortress in the past. Vilanova dos Infantes, is not only a beautiful place for rest and leisure, but also has a lot of history that supports its present.

Oseira

Oseira is located in the village of San Cristovo de Cea and has a treasure of great value: the monastery of Oseira, which was built in the 12^th century and has always had an enormous influence on the area. Its church, built between 1200 and 1239, is considered one of the masterpieces of Cistercian architecture on the peninsula. As a curiosity, it is currently inhabited by a Trappist community that produces a peculiar liqueur called Eucaliptine, as well as beer and chocolate. The village of Oseira can and should be visited on foot, enjoying the stroll near to the river of the same name.

Celanova

Last but not least, Celanova is also one of the most beautiful villages of Ourense. This little town stands out for its historical centre and its remarkable monument: the monastery of San Salvador de Celanova. It was founded in the 10^th century by one of the most influenced people of the epoque, San Rosendo, bishop of Mondoñedo and Santiago de Compostela. From this medieval period, only the small chapel of San Miguel remains, in Mozarabic style. It was so important that, according to the legend, Charles V thought of spending the last years of his life in this place. This place transmits peace and rest.

Its look: first impressions

The most superficial thing about Santiago de Compostela, what is known at first sight, what conquers in that way that has the beauty to conquer. Santiago is well known for its Obradoiro square and its cathedral, the Santa Apostólica y Metropolitana Iglesia Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. The superficial, in this case, is of priceless value. One should look for the perfect view of the cathedral from the Platerías square, where once, in the Middle Ages, goldsmiths stood to sell their goods. From this its name. Also the paths through the Alameda Park, with its two Marías always present. You have to walk through the historic center slowly and without a map.

The first impressions of Santiago de Compostela can appear from the many viewpoints that surround the city, but generally come from the old town, because it is where travelers land. The first thing you see, the first thing you wish to see. But staying in it is like staying in a person's eyes, which in this case would be blue like the sea that feels close, or perhaps gray like the buildings that make up the city. It is not enough, however, to keep the first look. To get to know a place, as it happens with people, you have to wander around, walk a hundred times around the same places, ask a lot of questions and always be curious. All this fits very well with Santiago, university city, holy city, city of the past and of the future.

To know its personality

Santiago has always a house full of friends to whom it prepare the best dinner. Zamburiñas and razor clams from the nearby Rias Baixas and for dessert something with almonds: Santiago's cake. In Galicia any excuse is a good excuse to eat, and also to drink. And Santiago is no exception. A city that smells like tradition while looking to the future, there are a thousand plans that speak well of a personality focused on culture and history, but with a clear space for life in society.

Compostela as a way of life

That lovely, lazy rain gives way to moments of peace in the city, but there's no reason to lock yourself indoors. The concept of 'compostelanear' is one of Santiago's secrets and basically consists of betting on food, drink and conversation while watching the rain on the other side of the windows. Of course, this can be done in any city of the geography, but you should not leave Santiago without knowing this term.

The Abastos market, a must see

Visiting the Abastos market is a nice way to fit among the inhabitants of Santiago. It is a covered space that has been runing since the late 19th century. A five-minute walk from the famous cathedral, this market consists of eight aisles offering typical local products. It is a perfect place, for example, to buy the prized barnacles, which can also be prepared in the bars that are there, to enjoy them immediately after purchasing them. A gastronomic and social experience.

Santiago, Holy City

In addition to the popular cathedral, Santiago de Compostela has several religious buildings to visit. You can't be a Holy City by any means, of course. The monastery of San Martiño Pinario, in Plaza de la Inmaculada, whose facade dates back to the 16th century, is one of the most interesting spots. Inside, in addition to highlighting the choir and its two cloisters. It houses a museum of religious art that has up to 12 exhibition halls full of paintings, sculptures and biographies of historical figures. Also noteworthy is the collegiate church of Santa María do Sar, built following the characteristics of the Romanesque style in the far 12th century on the banks of the river Sar.

A university city

The university face of Santiago de Compostela is very important to understand its personality, because every morning, afternoon and evening the university students take up the streets, the bars, the natural spaces of the city. It is essential to visit this five hundred year old university. You can access different guided tours that review the most emblematic places of the different faculties and those corners that have made this university one of the most important in Spain.

Looking to the future

Santiago is an old city and likes to keep its own, but it has a young spirit and likes to experiment, to innovate. The Cidade da Cultura is an example. This group of buildings raised a few debates when it was installed at the top of Mount Gaiás. Its contemporary, extravagant forms can be seen in the distance from various points of the city and will surprise from each one of them. In this small city of culture is the library and archive of Galicia, also the Gaiás Center Museum, one of the most unique buildings in Santiago. One should not leave without looking at the Gaiás Donut, which makes you smile with what is perhaps the most original postcard of the city.

Going back to the city center, the Museum-Foundation Eugenio Granell will delight lovers of contemporary art, as it houses a large collection of surrealist art. It usually has temporary exhibitions that bring to Santiago movements from other countries and continents. Eugenio Granell himself, a native of A Coruña, was the driving force behind its creation.

Galician mythology

It is often said that there is no Galician corner without its legend and Mount Viso brings together many of the figures that star in this famous mythology. From the top of this place you can enjoy a perfect panoramic view of Santiago, the mountains and valleys that surround it. If you go hiking you will also enjoy the folklore. In the mythological path of Mount Viso are represented, in the form of sculpture, figures such as lamias or meigas, in which nobody believes, but surrounded by mystery.

To learn about its past

Because it is important to know the origin to understand the present. As has been said, Santiago is an ancient city that has its birth, as the city it is today, linked to the discovery of the remains of the Apostle Santiago, in the early 9th century. The relics of the Apostle and his disciples are found in a mausoleum of Roman origin under the main altar of the cathedral, inside a silver urn from the 19th century. This crypt can be visited, so it may be the most direct trip to the first origin of Santiago, but it is not the only one.

The medieval remains

The case of Lugo, with its ancient medieval wall practically untouched, is a strange case, since the usual thing is that, stepping into the contemporary era, these were pulled down to ease the expansion of cities. Santiago de Compostela demolished its walls in the 19th century, but some vestiges can still be found. The clearest is the arch of Mazarelos, one of the seven gates through which allowed the access to the enclosure. Near this arch is the fountain of Santo Antonio, as well as the only remaining tower.

The first wall was built in the 10th century, but it did not last long: Almanzor demolished it when he approached the city, the object of his desires. It was in the eleventh century when a second wall was built, five meters high and two and a half meters thick. Remains of this second attempt to wall Santiago de Compostela are still preserved.

The Galician people, in a museum

The Museo do Pobo Galego, in the northeast of the city, has both permanent and temporary exhibitions. The aim of all of them is to showcase the culture, traditions and art of Galicia. With more than 10,000 exhibits, from fishing boats to historical costumes, it also has architectural surprises such as the triple helicoidal staircase that unites, as is always the case in Santiago, past with present and future. In this museum, located in the old convent of San Domingos de Bonaval, from the 13th century, rest the remains of important figures of Galician culture, such as Rosalía de Castro. It is the Panteón de Galegos Ilustres (Pantheon of Illustrious Galicians).

Its friends: a trip to the surroundings

Tell me who you hang out with and I'll tell you who you are, goes the saying, and although the surroundings do not determine the personality of a place, the geographical context is important to understand the place where you are. In this case, the sea can almost be smelled from Santiago. With the viewpoints and nearby mountains already explored, it is time to explore more spots.

Rias Baixas, the perfect partner

A visit to the Rias Baixas is almost a must. A trip to Noia, a beautiful medieval village just half an hour by car, is a first and successful approach to this area of Galicia so popular and so authentic. It is essential to understand the relationship of the land with the sea if you want to leave it with the feeling of having known it. So you have to hit the road, the Rias are waiting for you with open arms.

A Ponte Maceira, the magic of little things

Another equally suggestive alternative is to discover the small towns and villages scattered around the capital, as is the case of A Ponte Maceira. Many pilgrims will know it on their way to Fisterra, but it is worth knowing it in the same way even if it is not from the Way to Santiago. It is located just twenty minutes from Santiago and its scenic wealth is superb.

It is a great way to complete the journey, although the basics have already been said. In Santiago de Compostela you have to stay, as many days as possible.

A bit of history of the cliffs of paper

These cliffs are located in the Concello de Xove, a name that comes from the Latin, lovius. Finding the origin to their evolutions leads to Jupiter, the main god of Roman mythology. It is believed that the Romans passed through this land and built a temple in honor of the god, majestic enough to give this name to the whole territory. There are also numerous prehistoric sites in the municipality. All of them have made it possible to determine that Xove has been inhabited for more than 4,000 years, although it was not until the middle of the last century that it became the municipality it is known as today.

Time can be well seen, precisely in these cliffs of paper. Their striking shapes are the result of the action of the wind and the force of the sea, which have sculpted this natural whim over the centuries. Its image is reminiscent of a crumpled cardboard, squeezed and reconverted into different figures, which is why this place was so named.

The passage of time has also allowed the Cantabrian route to be modeled around these places, which allows you to discover the Mariña lucense and its natural beauty.

The keys of the cliffs of paper

The key lies in its scenic value, although its geological or historical value should not be forgotten. It is the postcard they offer, in any case, their main attraction. These cliffs extend from Cape Morás to Roncadoira point, taking up a lot of space within the coast. As already mentioned, and aware of the many kilometers in which the Galician land faces the sea, these can become the most surprising.

Because at all times they give what they promise. With a height of about thirty meters, these granite rock formations twist and overlap each other, with the waves crashing against the hollows with the force of the Bay of Biscay. The subtle color of the granite also contrasts with the deep blue that seeps through the cracks formed. Some of these rocks seem to be in an impossible balance over the abyss. It is a spectacle of nature that should be visited once in a lifetime.

Spots near the cliffs

Discovering the coast could be considered a nearby spot, as it has places that are also worth a visit. The island of Ansarón, without going any further, which one can approach through the waters but on which one cannot set foot. About 10 hectares in size, it is one of the largest islets of Lugo. It reaches about 80 meters high, its cliffs are of great value and is a protected area for its importance in the breeding of seabirds.

The port of Morás, on the same coast, accumulates boats that practice artisanal fishing. It is also interesting to mention that the old whaling factory in the area, which was in operation from 1965 to 1977, closed almost half a century ago. Nothing remains of it, except for the stories that the locals can tell. You can visit the Roncadoira lighthouse, which is also not in operation but is, as shown in the photograph that precedes these paragraphs, the ideal place to watch the sunset. And if you want to get a panoramic view of this beautiful land, you can approach the viewpoint of Mount Castelo. Located 132 meters above sea level, it allows you to see the wonderful spot in which you find yourself when you visit the Concello de Xove.

A hundred pictures are not enough to understand its beauty

The cliffs of paper are our Weekend Getaway for three very simple reasons. First, because it is a perfect excuse to visit this town rich in landscapes and stories. On the other hand, because these forms, the result of the passage of time, are so unique that you have to enjoy them at least once in your life. Finally, because these cliffs are a clear example that sometimes pictures are not enough to understand the beauty and immensity of a place. It is not enough to see them through a screen: it is the personal experience what matters.

The oldest cathedral in Spain

The origins of this title of oldest cathedral in Spain date back to the 11th century, although it seems that its birth as a temple is found much earlier. Specifically, in the 6th century, when the Christians fled from their enemies in Britain, today's Great Britain, to settle in the Mariña lucense. They founded then a monastery that many consider the direct antecedent of this basilica.

In any case, San Martiño de Mondoñedo was, in the 11th century and for a time, a double episcopal seat. On the one hand, of the Dumiense bishopric, which moved from Dumio, today's Braga, fleeing from the Muslims. On the other hand, from Bretoña, today's Santa María de Bretoña, where these Bretons settled. To the bishopric of Dumio, already in the ninth or early tenth century and under the mandate of Bishop Sabarico of Dumio, corresponded the construction or perhaps reconstruction of the church.

At the beginning of the 12th century, however, the cathedral seat was moved. Too close to the coast, it was increasingly necessary to prevent possible maritime invasions, so it was moved about twenty kilometers inland from the coast. To a place called Vallibria which, in memory of this primitive episcopate, took its name, Mondoñedo, and became the municipality it is today.

The basilica, for its part, became a parish church in the 17th century. It was not until 2007 that it received the title of minor basilica, while one of the most important restorations in its history took place.

A peculiar basilica

Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 1931, the predominant style of the temple, which follows the canons of Lombard-Catalan Romanesque, is unusual in the North. Experts point out that it was mainly at the end of the 11th century when it took on the image that can be seen today, but it is easy to appreciate its different phases and stages of construction. Made of slate masonry and granite ashlar, it has three naves covered with wood. Its dimensions, the size of the main nave of the temple and the large buttresses, which were added in the 18th century, are striking. The bell tower was attached to the right side.

It is possible to visit the interior space, although it is not always available to the public. The opening and closing times should be checked before going to the church if one wants a sure visit. If the ensemble is striking for its dimensions, the interior may be of special interest for the wonderful set of mural paintings found in the vault just fifteen years ago, during a restoration. They were made in the 12th century.

The sculptural ensemble of the basilica is also of interest, especially the capitals. Of the eleven located in the temple, nine belong to an anonymous sculptor with his own style who has become known as the Master of Mondoñedo.

Legends and Galician charm

As a good Galician enclave, this temple has its associated legends. Although in this case we must spek of legend attached to reality, because the stories are mainly starred by San Gonzalo, bishop who gave a great boost to the church. San Gonzalo, whose tomb is located in the southern part of the basilica, is attributed with several miraculous deeds, two of which are particularly well known. First, it is said that his prayers prevented a pirate raid on the estuary of Foz that would have caused great damage to the population. On the other hand, near San Martiño de Mondoñedo is the Zapata fountain. The story goes that San Gonzalo threw in this place a slipper getting water with miraculous properties. A saint with all the letters.

And also as a good Galician enclave, the corners surrounding the basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo complete an already exciting trip. The town where the temple is located is Foz, a coastal municipality that lives off the Cantabrian Sea, with its own beautiful estuary. You have to discover the Castelos de Foz, three large rock formations located off the coast that have always been known as castles because of their size and peculiar structure. Nor should you leave without visiting the castro of Fazouro or the church of Santiago de Foz, although the star of the place is the one that stars in these lines. The basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo, considered the oldest cathedral in Spain.

A Guarda, the place where the Miño river dies

The municipality of A Guarda is one of the most interesting of Galicia as a whole, the last one on the Atlantic before crossing the border into Portugal. It is separated from the Portuguese country by the Miño, which finds its mouth in the ocean at this point. It is said that the best Galician sunsets are contemplated here and that eating lobster is a must. Its port, its fish market, the colorful houses overlooking the sea, the Casas Indianas and several buildings of historical importance, such as the 12th century Romanesque church, justify knowing A Guarda. As if this were not enough, also located here is the Castro de Santa Trega, declared a National Historic and Artistic Monument and a Site of Cultural Interest. According to the petroglyphs found on the hill, this castro was inhabited between the 1st century BC and 2nd century AD. A Guarda is history and beauty.

Agolada, the heart of green Galicia

This peculiar municipality has earned a nickname that is very important in this community: the heart of green Galicia. Located very close to the border with the province of Lugo, Agolada is a small population center that has managed to preserve its past while struggling to keep pace with modern times. In addition to highlighting its surroundings, a visit to Agolada allows you to discover a set of buildings declared Historic-Artistic Site in 1985. These are the Pendellos de Agolada, stone, wood and tile huts that were built in the 18th century to house the market. The place was also an important commercial center, where livestock and crafts were the stars, and has managed to maintain virtually intact this part of its history.

Baiona, where to have it all

This seaside town has acquired in recent years a great tourist relevance, being as it is in a privileged place. Declared a Historic-Artistic Site, Baiona is important, in fact, for centuries. Its port was, in fact, the first port in Europe to know the arrival of Christopher Columbus to America, as it was here that La Pinta docked on its return. Today a replica of the caravel can be seen in the place that welcomed it. In Baiona, you should also let yourself be carried away by the streets of its historic center and also by its beaches, among which the Ladeira beach stands out. Nor should you leave without walking the 3 kilometers that occupy the walls of the castle of Monterreal, a fortress of the eleventh century that was built on a hill to dominate the entire bay. A couple more elements to know: the church of Santa Maria, the Cruceiro de Trindade or the monument of the Virgin of the Rock, 15 meters high and located on top of the hill of San Roque.

Barro, inland paradise

The municipality of Barro is located in an unsurpassable natural space: the Nature Park of the Barosa River. When one speaks of nature framing it within Galicia one can only expect great landscapes and pure air. Within this park, it is worth taking a hiking route that will reveal, among other things, the nearly twenty water mills distributed around the river. It also has a beautiful waterfall that saves more than thirty meters of unevenness in a very small space, creating a very beautiful image. Within the village, it is interesting to visit the pazo da Crega, which was restored in 2008 and today hosts various celebrations. Also monuments such as the church of San Martiño de Agudelo, from the 12th century, one of the best examples of Galician Romanesque architecture in the province.

Caldas de Reis

Perfect to enjoy the peace, nature, to disconnect. Caldas de Reis is an enclave of moderate size, cobbled streets and interesting points, such as the thermal spring of Las Burgas. In the center of the town is located this curious fountain from which hot water flows, some would even say that burning. You should also visit the Roman stone bridge, as well as the cross that is next to it. Caldas de Reis saves as it can the course of the Umia river, around which you can enjoy beautiful hiking trails and also some other bathing area. To mention a specific landmark, the church of St. Thomas Becket, built in the nineteenth century in honor of the Archbishop of Canterbury and Chancellor of England, is a curious place.

Cambados, the slow motion trip

One of the liveliest municipalities of Pontevedra: Cambados. Not only for the celebration that takes place every summer around the Albariño, a festival that began in 1953 as a competition between two of the most important winemakers in the area and has ended up being a fair of national importance. Cambados is much more. It has one of the best preserved historical sites in the area, so a stroll through its historic center will reveal manor houses and noble houses everywhere. If one ventures into its streets without haste, you will enjoy other very stimulating monuments such as the Tower of San Sadurniño, full of stories, or the church of Santa Mariña Dozo, which rests at the foot of Mount A Pastora and have, said Álvaro Cunqueiro, the most melancholy cemetery in the world.

Combarro, the unforgettable postcards

They say that Combarro is one of the most beautiful villages in Galicia. There are those who dare to go further and say that it is, in fact, the most beautiful of the community. Without the need to make such blunt statements, the truth is that Combarro leaves unforgettable postcards on the shores of the Atlantic. What makes it so extremely beautiful, moreover, is its essence, its history: it is a fishing village in which dozens of hórreos were built, once necessary for the preservation of food, which today make up a set of great value. Perhaps tourism is overcrowding the small streets of Combarro, but even with a large influx of people it is worth visiting. One almost thinks about staying in front of the ocean for hours to watch the tides dancing, which also leaves impressive images.

Isla de Arousa, the only insular municipality of Galicia

Located in front of Villanueva de Arosa is this island that was declared a Nature Reserve by the European Union. This decision was taken because of the 36 kilometers of coastline it has, of which eleven are made up of beautiful beaches of fine white sand. It is also a popular tourist destination, linked as it is to the Iberian Peninsula by a two-kilometer long bridge. The island of Arosa is located in the estuary of the same name and constitutes a different experience within Pontevedra, which is why it has been chosen and why it should be an option whenever one plans a trip to the Galician province.

Nigrán, full of monuments

This municipality is part of the Val Miñor region, one of the most unexplored and yet captivating in Galicia. Within the municipality you can discover several parishes that will excite visitors, from the one that gives its name to the whole, Nigrán, to the parish of Panxón, which has the Votivo do Mar temple, of unique appearance. Nigrán is sea and mountain, a place of pazos, nature and beaches such as America, a huge sandy area of more than one kilometer. Do not leave the area without approaching Monteferro, a tongue of land that goes almost a kilometer and a half into the sea, offering exceptional viewpoints to contemplate the ocean and the Cies Islands. On this peninsula is also the monument to the Universal Navy of Monteferro, inaugurated almost a century ago as a memorial to the sailors. Its size, 25 meters high, means that it can be seen both from the waters and from different parts of the province.

Oia, sea and mountain

They say that the municipality of Oia is a true paradise and there is no shortage of reasons to consider it so. Oia inspires peace, with typical buildings dressing the shores of the Atlantic, scattered at different points between the ocean and the mountains that guard its back. Within this municipality you can discover monuments such as the monastery of Santa Maria, which was built in the twelfth century to accommodate the so-called 'artillery monks', who undertook to defend the town from frequent pirate attacks. In the surroundings, the hermitage of Santa Uxia de Mougás, the pools of Mougás, which offer beautiful views of the surroundings, or the petroglyphs of Auga dos Cebros, a historic place where numerous traces of rock art have been found.

Tui, a city that is a village

Although Tui is declared a city, the feeling it conveys is that of being a quiet village where people live well. Its forms lead directly to medieval times, highlighting of this feature the fantastic state of preservation of both its layout and the monuments that can be seen in its cobbled streets. The old town has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site. Tui has developed at the expense of the Miño, which serves as a natural border between Spain and Portugal. Do not leave without crossing the International Bridge on foot. Before that, there are several monuments to see. For example, the Cathedral of Santa María, which looks more like a fortress than a temple and that surprises already from the first contact. Tui, in general, is a pleasant surprise.

A Proba de Navia, unknown surprise

This village is located in the Ancares mountain range, it is crossed by the Navia river and welcomes the visitor with one of the best medieval bridges that can be discovered in Galicia. It is the capital of the municipality of Navia de Suarna, which marks part of the border with Asturias. Ideal destination for those seeking tranquility and contact with nature, it will surprise the visitor with the Altamira Castle and also with a surrounding area in which more than two dozen forts can be counted.

Belesar, at the mercy of the Miño in Lugo

This quiet village resting on the banks of the Miño has a long history next to it. You can still walk along the so-called Codos de Belesar, the remains of the Roman road that linked the large population centers on either side of the river giant. This name refers to the winding shape of the path, which saved as it could the impressive slope that still today is difficult to ascend or descend. It is a fantastic place to know and understand the value of the Ribeira Sacra, the so-called heroic viticulture and the relationship of this area of Galicia with the Miño.

Fonsagrada, holding records

A Fonsagrada stands out as a whole, but you have to start to know it by the village that gives its name to the largest municipality of Galicia, with 438 square kilometers. In this town you can enjoy the parish church, inside which there are altarpieces of great value. As with Galicia in general, the surrounding nature is part of the essence of the population center, so do not leave without discovering the primitive settlements in the area or the largest waterfall in the community: the Seimeira de Vilagocende.

Froxan, the value of restoration

The Xunta de Galicia was responsible for restoring this small village in the municipality of O Courel. Subsequently, it was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. Its narrow streets allow the visitor to discover a particular, traditional architecture and many remains of its history, such as Fonte do Milagro. It is also located in a very Galician environment: there is nothing but green around Froxan.

Mondoñedo, the capital of Central Mariña

The heritage of Mondoñedo is numerous. Alfonso VII of León granted it, in 1156, the title of city, which explains the great concentration of monuments that it keeps. It highlights its Cathedral Basilica of La Asunción which is, along with the Northern Way, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. You should also visit the house-museum of Álvaro Cunqueiro, a native of Mondoñedo, or the Ponte do Pasatempo. And you should not leave, of course, without taking a walk in the surrounding area.

O Cebreiro, the welcome of the French Route

O Cebreiro is the first Galician village on the French Way. The pilgrim crosses the border to enter the land of St. James the Apostle and is welcomed by its pallozas, which speak of its ancestral past and form an unforgettable image. It is located at an altitude of 1,300 meters, is part of the Ancares and has in its church of Santa María la Real do Cebreiro a valuable Romanesque chalice. All in all, visiting O Cebreiro means having an encounter with the past.

Os Peares, where everything comes together

The town of Os Peares is one of the most curious of Galicia. It is in this place where the river Miño and the river Sil meet, thus giving rise to one of the hearts of the Ribeira Sacra. But, in addition, depending on the neighborhood where you are, you will have to say that you are in the province of Lugo or Ourense. Os Peares belongs to both provinces and to four municipalities. A good part of what is the Ribeira Sacra is in this village, a place that has had to adapt to this wild nature.

Piornedo, understanding the enxebre

Again pallozas. Those of Piornedo were inhabited until the seventies, a fact that says a lot about the way history has been preserved in this small village in the municipality of Cervantes. In addition to these ancient constructions, the raised granaries and the mountain houses form an authentic image, as they say in the land. Near Piornedo, the 2,000 meters of the Mustañar peak speak for themselves of the impressive nature of the area. It is one of the most interesting villages in Galicia.

Portomarín, the resurrected village of Lugo

With the construction of the Belesar reservoir, the old village of Portomarín was buried under its waters. Today, however, Portomarín is a thriving village overlooking the Miño from the heights. When tragedy loomed over its neighbors, they rescued and preserved certain elements of what had been their home in order to raise it up again. The church-fortress of this town, San Xoán de Portomarín, was moved stone by stone, an event always to be highlighted. History, lots of life and fantastic postcards, that is Portomarín.

Ribadeo, the sea in all its splendor

There is much to discover also in Ribadeo. To point out, first of all, that it is located in a privileged location: in the Eo estuary or Ribadeo estuary, as it is known in Galicia. With the Bay of Biscay to the north, landscapes as spectacular as Illa Pancha and its lighthouse are formed around Ribadeo. It also highlights its historic center, which has both traditional sailor houses and authentic manor houses. Nearby, in addition, awaits one of the natural riches of Galicia: the beach of the Cathedrals.

Viveiro, discovering the Rias Altas in Lugo

It is said a lot that in Viveiro smells like the sea and it is said with meaning on every occasion. It is a fishing village that allows you to discover the Rias Altas, less famous but equally interesting. Regarding Viveiro, between its pleasant beaches and its commitment to culture, the visitor finds a historic center that includes churches, monasteries, an ancient wall of which remains or the door of Charles V, erected in tribute to the emperor in the mid-sixteenth century. Lugo has many surprises to offer.

Since before the arrival of the Romans, although they were the ones who popularized the belief, it was believed that this place was the end of the world. Today it is known that it is not the westernmost point of the continent, that title goes to Cabo da Roca, in Portugal, but it does not matter, really, because this belief remains today. Especially because it feels like the end of the world. Finis Terrae, these Romans said, from which today's Finisterre derives. Fisterra, the Galicians say today. Welcome to the end of the earth.

A bit of history of the cape of Fisterra

The fascination that awakens today the cape of Fisterra goes back to antiquity. The first inhabitants of this land already considered it a special place, sacred in the purest sense of the term. It is considered that in the known as Monte do Facho, 242 meters above sea level, was the famous Ara Solis, where the pagan rites of worship to the star were performed.

The Romans continued and expanded this belief, until little by little one of the first pilgrimage routes of the continent was created, which had nothing to do with religion. For thousands of years, it was believed that beyond this point there was nothing more than a place where the sun went out every night among sea monsters and there were many who wanted to test its strength in situ.

Initially, this fame had nothing to do with the Way to Santiago, which was not born until the ninth century, but it is undoubtedly the influence of this in the current popularity of the cape. As the Way transcended borders and the paths of Galicia filled with pilgrims, the attraction to Fisterra grew even more. As the true nature of the land became known and the Atlantic began to be explored, the importance of Fisterra did not diminish, it only evolved.

Because of its location, on the Costa da Morte, the cape of Fisterra is also fundamental in the history of navigation. In 1853 a lighthouse was built, whose light currently reaches a distance of 65 kilometers. On the Galician coast, so wild and dangerous, this light has been a guide for almost two hundred years. Until recently, when it was banned due to the fires it caused, pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela brought other lights. They were those generated by the fires in which they burned their garments as a symbol of rebirth after completing the sacred journey. In any case, a thing of the past. Today it is a lost tradition, for the good of Fisterra.

The keys of the cape

The lighthouse of Fisterra is often spoken of as the place the traveler must get to. Obviously, it is the last thing before you hit the Atlantic, but it is not the only thing you can visit on the cape. In any case, it should be observed carefully. This octagonal tower located 138 meters above sea level goes with the lighthouse keeper's house and several businesses that can complement the visit.

One cannot leave this place without visiting the Monte do Facho. Legends say that here was located Dugium, the great city of the ancient Celtic settlers. Today you can see the remains of an ancient settlement. Also the lighthouse from a distance, with the Atlantic behind it. The views are impressive.

The bravest may be encouraged to descend the rocks of the cliff to reach, as far as possible, the Atlantic waters. It should be done carefully, knowing the limitations of such an adventure and without forgetting that this place is part of the Costa da Morte. Nature is as wild as the sea itself, so be careful.

Places near the cape of Fisterra

The cape of Fisterra is reached by a road that connects with the town of the same name. You can make the journey by car or you can choose to walk along the coast. Fisterra, just over half an hour walk, is a fishing village full of alleys and old houses. It has several beaches scattered along the coast, highlighting the praia da Langosteira, and a small port around which it began to grow. It is ideal to settle down during the weekend.

In this getaway, you can discover other interesting fishing villages, such as Sardiñeiro de Abaixo or Corcubión, or the trails that make up the epilogue of the Way to Santiago. They are paths that circulate through forests among which, from time to time and suddenly, the sea can be seen. You can also visit places like the Ézaro waterfall, an impressive waterfall towards the sea, where the Xallas river ends. It is a unique phenomenon in Europe.

Nor should we forget that Fisterra is the gateway to the Rias Baixas, which between towns and coves, cliffs and traditional culture, make up one of the most extraordinary regions of Galicia.

The sacred end of the world where the sun dies

Cape Fisterra is one of those places that, if you have the chance, you should visit at least once in your life. Because all the history it holds is felt the moment you set foot there. The Celts, the Romans, the sailors of Galicia and all the pilgrims who have crowned their Way here are present in the atmosphere that permeates the most famous sunset in Spain. Perhaps of the entire continent.

Fisterra is, like the Atlantic Ocean, eternal and also definitive. Where many people continue to conclude their journey and where many others, simply, want to magnify it. It is our weekend getaway for its history, for the feelings it gives to the traveler, and also because it is the best place to see how the sun goes out to meet, as every night, with the sea monsters. A peaceful sunset to enjoy during your stay.

Fisterra and this Costa da Vela share the Atlantic, the look at the immensity and the possibility of testing its waters. Perhaps not suitable for everyone, but always worthy of a few feet that dare with them. One gets used to the freshness and the beauty here. The Natural Area of Costa da Vela is one of the best places to discover the magic of the Atlantic.

The keys to Costa da Vela

It is also hard to imagine, from what you see when you arrive, that the Costa da Vela has the beaches that you end up finding. Between the estuaries of Vigo and Pontevedra, the high cliffs known as Cabo do Home and the three lighthouses that protect the area speak of an ancient, almost sacred place. Plagued by legends related to the sea, of course, and surrounded by pine forests. And with everything, beaches. Beaches where soaking is possible. Small corners, one could almost say tiny coves, of stones and sand where the bravest will discover another way to enter the ocean. With caution, that always.

The small Milide beach welcomes the visitor with a surprise. The pine forest that surrounds it has allowed this place to remain in its virgin form, unaltered, unsullied. In front of this sandy beach, the Cíes Islands, reminding us that there are things that can never be conquered. Remembering that there are places that must always remain so. A bath in the Milide beach is a quiet bath. Almost a bath of conscience, because the cold of the Atlantic cleans and because it is impossible to forget the place where one is.

If you leave Cabo do Home behind, advancing along its paths but taking licenses, Barra beach awaits in the middle of the wild nature of the place. It is one of the most popular nudist beaches in the area, with more than a kilometer wide and fine sand, warm for the walker in the summer months. Of easy bathing, although the Atlantic wind does not grant too many breaths. The waves seem to reach everything in another quiet beach of this coast: the beach of Nerga. It surprises also for its dunes and for that capacity that has, as its countrywomen, to wrap the visitor in a state of calm reverie.

They are not the only ones that can be found. One can visit this place dozens of times with the feeling that there will always be something new to discover. One more nook and cranny in which to look out over the Atlantic.

Nearby corners of the Costa da Vela

The Costa da Vela, it has already been said, walks carried by the eternity that retains with it the Atlantic. That means that it is not necessary to move to discover, to explore and to enjoy. The visitor must stay, wander along the edge of the cliffs, understand the legacy that characterizes this place, the Rías Baixas and Galicia in general.

O Facho de Donón, going towards the north of the Cape, presents the visitor with the remains of a castreño settlement. Dwellings and walls are still visible, although dragged down by the passage of time. Near the castro, Monte Facho guards a Galician-Roman sanctuary of the third century A.D., still with altars and with a high cultural value.

It is also worth discovering this triangle of lighthouses that for a long time offered an essential service to the coast. The Cabo Home lighthouse stands out, one of the most photographed in Galicia. Tall and blue as the sea, as is the Punta Subrido Lighthouse, which completes the trilogy on the southern slope of the cape. Between the two, the Punta Robaleira lighthouse stands out for its unexpected red color and its small shape. They all have their history, their stories, and their importance.

Because you can breathe the Atlantic

The Costa da Vela, with all its attractions, is a fantastic enclave in which to let time pass. It should be approached without haste and ready to be surprised, sometimes to be subdued, by all the peculiarities of this ocean that closes the Iberian Peninsula to the west. Cold, temperamental and infinite, it has conditioned the Galician lands since the world began. It is worth exploring and breathing it.