What to see in Segovia: wonders to experience at least once in life
The city of Segovia summons the imagination. History and legend mark its streets and its architecture, all of which reveal countless tales of kings, noblemen and even the Devil. The city’s blend of majestic centuries-old monuments with a vibrant cozy modernity may surprise the visitor. Here is a taste of the authentic marvels the city of Segovia has to offer.
Segovia’s glorious heritage and alluring ambience
The Roman aqueduct, a bridge to antiquity
Not only is Segovia’s aqueduct a masterpiece of Roman engineering, it is the emblematic soul of the city. Its 167 arches rise gracefully through the heart of the city, and not a speck of cement is to be seen. It has devilishly weathered the centuries and the elements. Starting from the Fuenfría spring, the aqueduct’s most renowned section lies at the extraordinary arcade above Azoguejo Square.
Observing these timeworn stones, one can almost hear the whisperings of millennia ago and feel an intimate connection with a civilisation that understood grandeur as an act of permanence. It might surprise some to know that until recently, cars freely travelled under its arches or that the aqueduct continued to supply water to the city until 1973.
The Alcázar of Segovia, a dreamy castle
Imagine a fairy tale castle with pointed turrets stretching skyward and a mighty silhouette looming over the land. Indeed, this is the Alcázar of Segovia, a fortress that has witnessed coronations, conspiracies and illusions of conquest. The panoramic views of the unfolding countryside from the castle’s lofty tower are simply breathtaking.
The castle’s intricately decorated salons evoke the splendour of the monarchs who once resided here. Royal residence of Castilian kings dating back to the 12th century, the castle’s old tower also served as the crown’s treasury. Indeed, the fortress was also the site of one of the first royal archives and a royal armoury. The Alcázar of Segovia is undoubtedly a place to immerse oneself in Segovia’s storied history.
The Cathedral of Segovia, our lady caressing the sky
Commonly known as the Lady of Cathedrals, Segovia’s Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and of Saint Fructus is a masterpiece of the late flamboyant Gothic style due to its sheer size and elegance, attested to by its exquisite soaring tower and the otherworldliness of its stained glass interiors bathed in daylight. From the chapels to the choir, everything about this cathedral summons awe for those who constructed it.
After the destruction of the old Santa María Cathedral in 1521 during the Revolt of the Comuneros, King Carlos I of Castile commissioned the reconstruction of what would become one of the most beautiful examples of this late Gothic style. Some original treasures were conserved from the old temple, such as the flamboyant Gothic cloister and the pipe organ, which was subsequently replaced in the 18th century for the current one.
San Antonio el Real, a quiet retreat
King Enrique IV originally commissioned the construction of a pleasure palace in 1455 on the site that subsequently became an enclosed sanctuary. The San Antonio el Real Monastery is another exceptional example of Gothic architecture and one of Segovia’s true wonders. Its artistic legacy has been conserved and bestowed to posterity, making the monastery an extraordinary museum in its own right.
Beyond the artistic opulence found inside the monastery, the building itself is a magnum opus, exemplified by the vivid Mudéjar coffered ceilings of the Main Chapel, the Isabelline Gothic-styled façade, and the stunning white and red hues of the cloister. What started as a kingly retreat came to be one of the most sacred architectural jewels of Segovia.
The historic embrace of Segovia’s town wall
Once an impenetrable stone barrier, today the extraordinary old city wall of Segovia appears more as a warm embrace, one that both protects the city and tells a story. Construction of the wall had been under way by the 11th century when King Alfonso VI of León conquered the town from the Moors. This colossal structure served during times when Segovia served as a strategic stronghold. The pure granite of its wall, with its 80 towers and five gates, extends up to three kilometres.
Of the three gates still conserved today, Saint James’ Gate and its four wickets present a splendid illustration of the Mudéjar style. Passing through the old town gates is like stepping into a past world of merchant caravans and the bustle of diverse cultures crowding the town’s streets. Tombstones from Segovia’s ancient Roman necropolis are known to have been reused in the construction of the town wall, thus preserving even the oldest elements from Segovia.
The indelible memory of the Jewish Quarter
Although Segovia’s entire old town is a treasure trove and deservedly a World Heritage Site, the old Jewish Quarter’s rich and illustrious cultural legacy is truly remarkable. The tightly packed homes in the Jewish Quarter formed small enclosures where the community’s daily life took place, while the rougher façades of its buildings reveal evidence of defensive measures having been taken. What survives today is a labyrinth of narrow, cobblestoned streets imbued with an aura of mystery.
Among the city’s five synagogues, the Main Synagogue, subsequently converted into a Christian church, stands out. The Sephardic community’s cultural and commercial splendour contrasted sharply with the ill treatment they suffered under Christian control. Beginning in the 15th century, repression against Jews led to their restricted movement within ghettos and their eventual expulsion or forced conversion. Some notable figures like Abraham Senior, Rabbi of Castile and notable banker, chose the latter.
You can also read this article in Spanish here.