There are some corners, like the forest we already mentioned or the valley of Baztan, that get crowded with curious travellers. However, others remain hidden, concealed in the calm that comes from the certainty that massive tourism will not erase them. They rest surrounded by a sweet silence that, just as their beauty, bears the very essence of Navarre. The valley of Améscoa is one of those places, and we invite you to explore it with us.

Discovering the unknown

The valley of Améscoa belongs to the territory called Tierra Estella in Spanish, and Lizarrerria in Basque, one of the five merindades Navarre is historically divided into. With a size of 120 square kilometres, resting between the mountain ranges of Urbasa and Lóquiz, this valley has been inhabited since the prehistoric period.

There are several landscapes in the area where humankind has barely left a trace. Only nature rules over those lands. Its peace has only been disrupted to build lovely paths and hiking routes for all to enjoy, as well as the buildings they needed for everyday life, always at an altitude of between 900 and 1100 metres.

We can find countless interesting corners there, but these lines will focus on a specific spot: Améscoa Alta, framed by the mountain range of Urbasa and the mountain Limitaciones to the north, the mountain range of Lóquiz to the south, and the valley of Arana (Araba) to the south. We will leave its neighbour Améscoa Baja, to the east of Améscoa Alta, for another time.

All the possibilities in the valley of Améscoa

One of the most remarkable spots in Améscoa Alta is Larraona, a village that is about a thousand years old. It lies near the border, only a few minutes away from Euskadi, which greatly shapes its personality. Like always, it is interesting to learn its past before visiting it. When it comes to Larraona, the visitor will find out, among other things, that this village was looted by the French troops during the Peninsular War.

In Larraona, we can visit the parish church of San Cristóbal, one of the oldest temples in the area. The church dates back to the 12^th century and it displays a Romanesque architectural style, although posterior reforms added new elements to its structure. In the past, Larraona gathered a wide variety of chapels, but now we can only visit Nuestra Señora de la Blanca, from the late 18^th century, and the chapel of San Benito, from the 16^th century, in the village’s surroundings.

If we walk through Larraona, we will be able to admire its traditional houses, with the coats of arms still standing out on their walls. There are also fascinating remnants of the past, like the old lavoir. Moreover, its rich gastronomy makes it worth it to stay there for lunch or dinner.

Once we leave Larraona behind, all we have left to do is walk. Dive into the forests and mountains of Navarre, enjoy the water flowing through them, and this way, we will truly find the most hidden spots of the valley, like the cave of Los Cristinos. They say the origin of its name is related to the Carlis Wars that marked Spain in the 19^th century. This place was used as a shelter, a prison, and even a graveyard for those who fought on the side of María Cristina de Borbón-Dos Sicilia, also called “cristinos”.

The cave’s entry lies on the floor, almost hidden from our sight. We should carry a torch or a similar device with us in order to access it, and be careful when we walk down the stairs. Most people share the feeling of immersing themselves into a wild, forbidden realm. There is something in the cave of Los Cristinos that some of the most popular caves in Spain lack: apart from the usual rock formations, the stalactites and the stalagmites, there is a beautiful blue lake.

We can enjoy another great adventure in the enchanted forest of Artea. Its peculiar rock formations, along with the rich vegetation of the forests of Navarre, conform a wonderful landscape. This forest might be small, but it nonetheless extraordinary. It becomes even more charming in autumn, when the fallen leaves blanket the ground where, from time to time, one unearths a moss-covered trunk. It is easy to feel insignificant in such an immense natural landscape.

Why we did not know it before

There are several beautiful corners hidden in the peninsula, for example the charming Sálvora Island, which tends to go unnoticed among its neighbours in the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. Due to their beauty or their history, other places in Navarre have been on the spotlight so far, and this valley has remained a secret for most travellers. It makes sense that the Pyrenees attract so much attention, which makes this corner between Navarre and Euskadi a land yet to explore. Like always, we suggest going beyond the most popular landmarks and giving a chance to the lesser known, hidden jewels that have so much to offer. This is, of course, the case of the magical valley of Améscoa.

Ochagavía

Located in the Salazar Valley and next to the Irati Forest, Ochagavía is a small village with a spectacular natural environment. In fact, the combination between its architecture and the nature that surrounds it is what makes it such a charming village. As for places of interest, its Stone Bridge over the river Anduña stands out. The medieval palaces of Urrutia and Iriarte and the Church of San Juan Evangelista also stand out. Finally, there are several viewpoints from which to observe a beautiful panoramic view of the town in the middle of the valley.

Roncesvalles

Roncesvalles is a popular stop for pilgrims on the Way to Santiago. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria, which dates from the 17th century, was a former hospital for pilgrims. It was ordered to be built by the Navarrese King Sancho VII the Strong in French Gothic style. Among its objects of interest are the emerald of Miramamolín and a chess of Charlemagne. As for the rest of the village, the most outstanding buildings are a mill, the Casa de los Beneficiados, a hostel and the hospice. As a curiosity, although it is a very touristic town, it only has 18 inhabitants.

Burguete

Burguete is totally immersed in the Navarre Pyrenees, to the point that the writer and journalist Ernest Hemingway said that it was 'the most wild territory of the Pyrenees'. This town was born with the aim of giving shelter to the pilgrims of the Way to Santiago in its passage through the mountains and today its historic center is declared of Cultural Interest. If we look at its history, this is where Charlemagne's troops were defeated in the 8th century and where centuries before the Roman legions had marched towards Hispania. Undoubtedly, this is one of the most beautiful towns in Navarre.

Estella

Because of its size and because it is also a passage of the Way to Santiago, Estella is one of the best known towns in Navarre. It has a large number of monuments, such as the Palace of the Kings of Navarre, the Church of San Pedro de la Rua, the Museum of Carlism or the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. If you have more time, you can also visit the Puente de la Cárcel, the Church of San Miguel, the Convent of Santo Domingo or the Castle of Zalatambor. It is best to spend at least a full day in Estella to enjoy all its wonders.

Etxalar

Etxalar is one of those villages that seem to be taken out of a fairy tale. In fact, it is National Tourism Award for its popular architecture and its great state of preservation. The Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and the Hermitage of Santa Cruz de Etxalar are its main religious buildings. In its Main Square, the large pelota court, where the pelotaris play pelota, is a striking feature. In Etxalar you can also see the Casa de Iñarreta, the Crucero de Iñarreta, the mills and the Algarata Bridge.

Artajona

Artajona is an easily accessible village, as it is only 30 kilometers from Pamplona. There you can find El Cerco, which is a fortress from the 11th century. It has a double wall and had up to fourteen towers, nine of which are still preserved today. Also worth a visit is the church-fortress of San Saturnino, with the particularity that it has a roof called Lomo de Dragón. It collects every last drop of rain that is stored in a cistern under the church.

Olite

If someone travels through Navarre and only has one day available, a great option is to go to Olite. It is a medieval village whose star monument is the Royal Palace, which looks like a castle because of its walls and towers and was the residence of the Kings of Navarre. It was built by King Carlos III in the 15th century and can be visited inside. Other places of interest in Olite are the Plaza de Carlos III el Noble, the Church of Santa Maria, the Clock Tower, the Church of San Pedro or the gardens of the palace, from where you can take spectacular photos.

La Reina Bridge

As its name suggests, one of the architectural jewels of Puente la Reina is its 11th century Romanesque bridge, one of the most popular images of this Navarrese town. It is also a town with a long tradition of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. It should be noted that for the size it has, it is a town with numerous churches, such as the Church of Santiago, the Church of the Crucifix and the Church of San Pedro Apostle. Another point that no one should miss is the Pilgrim's Monument.

Sangüesa

A little more than 40 kilometers from Pamplona, Sangüesa is one of the most beautiful villages in Navarre. One of its most famous monuments is the Church of Santa María la Real, which has been declared a National Monument and is of Romanesque style. Other churches are those of San Salvador and Santiago. As for palaces, those of París Íñiguez Abarca, the Sebastianes and Príncipe de Viana are the most remarkable, although there are more. Undoubtedly, a walk through Sangüesa is full of surprises that leave no one indifferent.

Cascante

Cascante is located in such a privileged natural environment as the Bardenas Reales Natural Park. The Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Romero, its main monument, was built in the 17th century. You can also visit the Ethnographic Museum of Cascante, where you can learn about the traditions and popular life of the town. Finally, if you want to see Cascante as a whole, the best thing to do is to go to the Romero Park, where there is a viewpoint with excellent views.

Ujué

Ujué is part of the list of the most beautiful villages in Spain, and it is not surprising because of the charm of its medieval streets. The church-fortress of Santa María is its most famous monument, from where you can get an incredible panoramic view. However, also worth a visit are the Castillazo, the Palace of Carlos II, the Ermita de la Blanca and the remains of the Church of San Miguel. As a curious fact, the name of the town comes from the Basque language and means dove.

A palace that served as inspiration for Bécquer

The Royal Palace of Olite is one of the most important medieval monuments in Spain and the most visited in Navarre. Although it is popularly known as a castle, the truth is that it is a palace, as it was built for courtly rather than military purposes. Such is the fantasy evoked by this construction that its walls inspired even Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer himself.

In terms of architectural styles, Olite is in the French Gothic style, although it does retain some Mudejar-style details, such as the remains of plasterwork and stucco work. This palace, of huge dimensions, is divided into three parts. Firstly, there is the Old Palace, which is now a Parador. Then there are the ruins of the chapel of San Jorge. Finally, there is the New palace, also known as the castle of Olite. This is the largest part and the one that can be visited inside.

It was especially in this third part that no expense was spared. There were all kinds of luxuries. Among them, several vertical gardens up to 20 metres high and a zoo which was a gift from the King of Aragon, Peter IV the Ceremonious. It also had a pelota court and a game of Basque pelota rackets, which are mentioned in a 15th century document.

Splendour and decadence of the Royal Palace of Olite

To understand the history of the Royal Palace of Olite, it is important to put in context the place where it is located. Today Olite is a medieval town of around 3,000 inhabitants with an old quarter in which echoes of other times can be heard. Olite has Roman walls, Renaissance and Baroque palaces and many medieval streets that bear witness to the town's historical events.

If visitors would like to delve even deeper into the medieval atmosphere of the municipality, they need only attend its Medieval Festivals. During these days, the residents of Olite are transformed into merchants, craftsmen, puppeteers, troubadours and clerics for a few hours. Tourists can travel back in time.

Returning to the history of the castle, specifically to the history of the New Palace, it was built in the 15th century by order of the King of Navarre, Carlos III the Noble and Doña Leonor de Trastámara. From that time onwards it became the seat of the Court of the Kingdom of Navarre. During those years it was a geographic point of great importance.

However, in 1512 the Crown of Castile and Aragon invaded the Kingdom of Navarre and the palace of Olite came to be used only as a holiday residence for some viceroys. As a result, it fell into disrepair over the next three centuries. It finally hit rock bottom when the Spanish military officer Francisco Espoz y Mina set fire to it during the War of Independence in order to prevent Napoleon from fortifying it.

Fortunately, in the 1940s it was rebuilt and restored, allowing it to be open to the public today. In 1925 it was declared a National Monument. It also currently houses the Olite Classical Theatre Festival.

The Royal Palace of Olite, one of the most luxurious in Europe

On the outside, the apparent disorder of the palace, which can be explained by the continuous renovations and extensions carried out, is what gives it its fantastic appearance. The building is also surrounded by high walls with moats. The palace is entered through a semicircular arch that leads to the Orange Tree Courtyard, which was once a garden full of fruit trees. As a curiosity, although there were many gardeners, the kings of Navarre also used to take part in the care of these trees.

The palace, one of the most luxurious in Europe at the time, consists of numerous rooms, courtyards, gardens and galleries. However, only three rooms on the ground floor, the royal apartments, the queen's garden and the six towers are open to visitors. From the latter, you can enjoy magnificent views of the entire palace complex and imagine what it would have been like to live in such a palace at that time. The most remarkable rooms are the Excavations Room, the Arches Room, the Queen's Room, the King's Room and the Plaster Chamber.

As for its courtyards, two of them stand out. It is said that the Mulberry tree, which is still there, was planted by King Carlos III himself. The history of the courtyard of La Pajarera is also curious, as it was so named because it was home to the palace's birds.

As for the chapel of San Jorge, what has survived to the present day are only ruins, which can be seen from the tower of the Three Crowns. This private chapel of the kings was built in the 14th century by order of Leonor of Castile, but the poor quality of the materials meant that it deteriorated much faster than the rest of the palace. In short, the palace of Olite is a place to enjoy at leisure, to breathe the fresh air from the top of its towers and to fantasise about what life was like for the kings of Navarre in its interior rooms.

The path through the Nacedero de Urederra is 6.2 kilometres long and has a 90-metre gradient. In total, it takes about three hours to walk the route, although you can add another hour if you take your time at each stop.

What the route hides

Extend the route with the Balcón de Pilatos

The route through the Nacedero de Urederra can be extended by visiting the Balcón de Pilatos, a high climb. It is a spectacular viewpoint of 300 meters of fall from which to observe the beginning of the river Urederra. This viewpoint is located on the southern edge of the Urbasa-Andía Natural Park, from where you can also enjoy splendid views of the Améscoas valley and other places in Tierra Estella thanks to its more than 900 metres in height.

Ujué

According to the legend, the sanctuary was erected after a shepherd saw a dove coming and going from a hole of a rock. There, it found a virgin. Today the village is not only the centre of one the oldest pilgrimages in our country, but also a historic and cultural destination located almost 50 kilometres far from Pamplona. It is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful villages in Navarre.

Cascante

Sangüesa

Olite

Artajona

Etxalar

Burguete

Roncesvalles

What was an important passageway in old times, is now a fundamental spot in the north of the community because of its beautiful collegiate church and the pilgrims hospital. Roncesvalles is also a must place to visit for those who love Idiazabal cheese. Here you can try it and know for first hand its elaboration process. You will not forget this day trip.By: Marta G. Coloma

The Palace Court of Charles III the Noble

Planning Your Trip to Olite

You can read all about the delightful cuisine and places to stay in the area in our pages for eating and staying in Olite.Do you want to learn more about this place?

History of Olite

Olite and its origins

The area has been inhabited since the time of the Roman Empire (1^st century AD), which is when its walls were built. In 621, it was refounded by Gothic king Suintila, who gave the town the name Ologite and fortified it to protect it from the Basques.

It received its first jurisdiction in 1147, similar to that of Estella, at the hands of king García Ramirez the Restorer, thus attracting more people to join its population. The progression accelerated in 1266 with the receipt of the privilege of hosting a fair that lasted for 15 days.

Charles III

On April 18^th, 1407, the Merindad of Olite was created, leaving Navarre divided into five autonomous administrative units. The capital of Olite was promoted by king Charles III the Noble, who exercised over the village a special protection. This monarch became so fond of the village that he ended up building an immense and luxurious palace in the town to serve as a residence for him and his wife, the sophisticated Leonor de Trastámara. However, this would bring disillusionment for the king: “In the kingdom of Navarra I was neither welcomed nor treated as I should have been,” he came to affirm.

The king spent much of his time ruling in this palace. There, on November 6^th, 1419, he signed the Tratado de Olite, protecting the independence of the kingdom by preserving the peace with Castilla. The king died in this palace only 6 years later.

Becoming a city

In 1630, Philip IV granted Olite the title of the city. The following centuries were ages of depression and depopulation for the town, which ended up falling into an abandon. This was made worse by the gradual disappearance of the power of the Merindades from the mid-19^th century. In 1885, Olite suffered a serious Cholera epidemic that decimated most of its population. To celebrate the people that survived, the Fiesta de la Virgen del Cólera is celebrated every year.

During the Spanish Independence War, in 1813, the Royal Palace of Olite was set on fire by the guerillas Espozo and Mina to keep the French troops from taking it. Later restoration has managed to restore it to its original appearance and make it the big tourist attraction that it is today.

Things to Do in Olite

The Royal Palace of Olite

The main heritage and tourist attraction in Olite is its Royal Palace. It is undoubtedly the most important civil Gothic building of Navarra, of which it used to be said that it had “as many rooms as days in the year.” Its disorderly appearance is the result of many additions and a lot of remodeling. At the time of its construction, it was equated to the most sumptuous palaces of the continent.

A visit to its dependencies can be separated into two parts: the Old Palace, the ancient Roman and Visigothic fortress, which has been converted into tourist inn; and the New Palace, which corresponds to the extensions made by Carlos III. The masonry of Martín Pérez de Estella, the carpentry of the Tudelano Moor Lope “The Barbicano,” and the carvings by Jehan Lome de Tournay stand out the most.

Important churches

The Church of San Pedro, a Romanesque building renovated in the Baroque style, is distinguished by its tall, octagonal, Gothic tower with a square floor plan and topped by a slender, pointed arrow. The other parish of the city, the Church of Santa María la Real, was built in the 15^th century with a richly decorated door and a main altarpiece by the painter Pedro de Aponte. According to legend, the Convent of San Francisco de Olite was founded by the same San Francisco de Asís in the 13^th century during his pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

Medieval layout

Something else that is very interesting to see in Olite is the best and largest walled enclosure of Roman origin in Navarra, with a perimeter measuring 600 meters and the remains of 12 of its old towers in its layout. Another of the patrimonial emblems of the city is the Torre del Chapitel, which forms part of the Medieval Romanesque walls. Throughout its history, it has exercised the functions of the Casa del Mercado y Cámara del Concejo (House of the Market and Chamber of the Council). Also, it was one of the first public clocks in the Iberian Peninsula. Take note of the pointed-arch passageway at its feet.

Olite is the wine capital of Navarra. Its tradition of cultivating wine dates back to the Roman era, and it knew many successive golden ages during the residence of Charles III and during the Phylloxera plague that devastated the French vineyards.

During the 20^th century, it was the forerunner of the Navarran Wine cooperative movement. In its territory, you’ll find the biggest concentration of wineries with Navarran D.O.s, like Cosecheros Reunidos, Marco Real, Pagos de Araiz, Piedemonte, Ochoa, Señor de Andión and Vega del Castillo. To learn more about the history of wine in Navarra, you only have to visit the Museo de Vino de Navarra in Olite.

The Essentials

Important Information

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 29′ 15″ N, 1° 39′ 45″ W

Distances

42 km to Pamplona, 84 km to Logroño, 371 km to Madrid

Parking

Parkings at Ronda del Castillo and Paseo de Doña Leonor

Altitude

388 m

Population

3,875 (2013)

CELEBRATIONS

OTHER EVENTS

ARTISANS AND LOCAL SHOPS

Pacharán of Destilería la Navarra

On the Banks of the Border River

Planning Your Trip to Bera

History of Vera de Bidasoa

Vera de Bidasoa is a border town. Throughout its history, it has served as a defense for the kingdom of Navarra against the French and the Guipuzcanos (segregated by their king and added into Castilla in 1200). In 1402, Carlos III the Noble recognized the towns sacrifices by granting it privileges. The fact that it is a frontier town has also encouraged Vera de Bidasoa to be favored throughout its existence by one of the most flourishing economic activities in history: smuggling.

The patron of the Iglesia de Vera was the lord of Alzate y Urtubie, who in 1606 named Lorenzo de Hualde as the pastor. This was one of the main collaborators of the inquisitors when generating the paranoia about witches that unleashed the Proceso de Logroño, in which many of the townspeople and their neighbors were accused of witchcraft.

In the summer of 1794, Vera de Bidasoa was occupied by the French troops of La Convención, who plundered everything. It also suffered destruction during the Guerra de la Independencia and the Carlist wars. In 1872, the Pretender Don Carlos de Borbón entered Spain through Vera de Bidasoa to start the last of the Carlist wars.

Things to Do in Vera de Bidasoa

The Casa Lazarobaitia, built in the Renaissance style, once held the Pretender Don Carlos in 1872, just before the last Carlist war began. Another interesting building you can see in Vera de Bidasoa is the Casa Arostegia, erected in 1796. Joseph Bonaparte stayed there on his flight to France from Vitoria. Shortly after, Duke Wellington stayed there too. On the upper part of its façade, you can see the Legia family coat of arms.

The Casa Zelaia is a harmonious, traditional structure. It has a lattice of wooden beams in its upper floors and large wooden balconies. The Hornacina del Cristo de Contrabando rests on its grounds. It is a figure that, as its name implies, comes from the fruits smuggling. The foreign origin of the image is evident in the fact that it is bound by four nails, one in each extremity, instead of the three that is traditionally Spanish.

The Iglesia de San Esteban was constructed in the 16^th century in an old tower house that was converted for ecclesiastical use. Despite subsequent remodeling, you can still see its characteristics of fortress housing. It houses what is considered to be the best Romanesque organ in all of Navarra as well as an excellent wooden ashlar.

Coordinates

43° 16′ 42″ N, 1° 40′ 57″ W

Distances

65 km from Pamplona

34 km from San Sebastián – Donostia

484 km from Madrid

Parking

You can find parking on the Paseo de Julio Caro Baroja and around the bus station.

Altitude

56 m

Population

3,829 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

San Esteban (August 2nd-6th)

OTHER EVENTS

the queuing and parade of floats on Carnaval Monday, and finally, collection and presentation of the Iñude

Esta Artzaiak by the children on Fat Thursday)

Feria de Artesanía

Lurraren Eguna

Día de la Tierra (Fourth Sunday of October)

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

Nearby Destinations

The Capital City of La Ribera

Planning Your Trip to Tudela

History of Tudela

Muslim Rule

Despite the existence of archeological remains from the Iron and Roman Ages, the main development of Tudela did not really take off until the Moorish domination. At the beginning of the 9^th century, an important medina was erected, dominated by Armùs ben Yusuf, governor of the Marca Superior.

A century later, Tudela fell to the Banu Qasi dynasty, leading to its Golden Age. Its ruler, Musa ibn Musa was considered the “third king of Spain” after Abd Al-Rahman II and Ordoño I of Asturias. For five years, Tudela was an independent Taifa kingdom that coined its own currency.

Navarre Kings

In 1119, Tudela was conquered by the Navarre-Aragonese king Alfonso I the Battler, which meant that it fell under the jurisdiction of Nájera. But with his death in 1134, Tudela was incorporated into the kingdom of Pamplona, and it has been a part of Navarre since then.

During the 12^th century, the Navarre monarchs favored this town highly. Sancho VI the Wise made it his permanent winter residence. Such stays led to the birth in the town of the future Sancho VII the Strong. This Tudelan king exercised the principal sponsorships during his reign.

In those days, there were important Muslim and Jewish communities in the locality. Banjamín de Tudela was a distinguished member of the Jewish community. He went on long trips to the Mediterranean and wrote the book Séfer Masaot, which is about the Jewish communities that he visited on his journeys.

Becoming a city

King Charles III made the village a city in 1390. It was a city that was controlled by the Agramontese lineage. At the time of the Castilian invasion of 1512, they withstood a difficult siege until September 9^th, the day on which they surrendered. The king Ferdinand the Catholic decided to win over its inhabitants by going to the city himself to swear their jurisdiction on October 4th. The following year he granted the city the title of “Very Noble and Very Loyal” despite being a focus of insurgents.

In 1516, the Court of the Inquisition was settled in the city. It had previously been in Pamplona, but Tudela was deemed safer. However, this privilege was not enough to end the rebellion. It was one of the cities that rose up against the Castilian domination in 1521, supporting the third attempt by the Albrets to recover the territory. A few months later, it fell back into the hands of the Castilians.

Uprisings

After the expulsion of the Moors in 1609 by Philip III, various religious orders were settled in the city during the 17^th and 18^th centuries. In 1808, in the midst of the Independence War, the Battle of Tudela took place. The city was made a point of interest for the French invaders because of its strategic position near Zaragoza. Napoleon’s victory in Tudela was reflected in the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.Later, Tudela began to develop a flourishing economy based around its orchards. Little by little, it became one of the most prosperous villages in Navarre thanks to a strong horticultural industry that really took off in the 1950s.

Things to Do in Tudela

Main attractions

The main monumental attraction to see in Tudela is the Santa María Cathedral, built in 1180 over the old Mezquita Mayor. It was collegiate until it was incorporated into the Diócesis de Tarazona. Its Puerta del Juicio Final stands out with its heavily decorated eight columns and vaulted arches.

The current tower is from the 17^th century because the original one collapsed. The Museo de Tudela is located in its cloisters and the dependencies of the annex Palacio Decanal, from the 15^th century. Here, you can see diverse archaeological artifacts and pieces of sacred and worldly art. It displays a painting on a table, El Juicio Final, which is attributed to El Bosco and several canvases of the Baroque painter Vicente Berdusán.

Beautiful churches

The Church of La Magdalena is the best display of Romanesque art in the city. Built in the mid-12^th century, it is highlighted by its principal door with four sculpted vaulted arches and an interesting Pantocrátor in its tympanum.

The Church of San Nicolás was a Romanesque temple that has been completely remodeled in the Baroque style in the 18^th century. The tympanum of the main entrance shows an interesting stone representation of the Holy Trinity. This church was the first tomb of Sancho VII, before his body was moved to Roncesvalles.

The other great temple in Tudela is the Church of San Jorge el Real, a Mannerist construction from the 17^th century. It passed into the hands of the monarchy, which is why “El Real” is in its name. In its interior, it guards a main altarpiece from the 18^th century and two oil paintings by Vicente Berdusán.

In the cloister, you can find the Edificio Castel Ruis, the ancient Jesuit convent, which is currently the cultural center and the site of the Museo Muñoz Sola, which contains an interesting collection of French paintings by César Muñoz Sola.

Impressive palaces

The Palacio del Marqués de Huarte is a Baroque building built on the foundations of the ancient walls. Its façade is decorated with murals from the 18^th century, and its interior has a magnificent central courtyard with a Baroque staircase.

Another unique building is the Palacio de San Adrián, the historic residence of the influential family Magallón, Marquis of San Adrián. It was constructed in the 16^th century, and its façade displays the wooden eaves with figurative motifs of vegetation. Its central courtyard is full of Grecian mythological murals. Finally, it is also worth seeing the Plateresque façade of the Casa de Almirante, with the figure of Hercules with the anthropomorphic representations of Virtue and Vice.In the surrounding areas, you find the Bardenas Reales Natural Park, an enormous expanse of semi-desert upon which time and wind have wrought capricious forms of great geological value. When it comes to food, Tudela is known for its goods produced from an orchard in which delicious vegetables grow. The most famous are the asparagus and the artichokes.

Main Images: Natursports / Shutterstock.com

Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 3′ 55″ N, 1° 36′ 24″ W

Distances

93 km from Pamplona

85 km from Zaragoza

329 km from Madrid

Parking

You can find parking in the Plaza de la Constitución, the Camino de San Marcial, or the Plaza San Salvador.

Altitude

264 m

Population

35,369 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

San Juan (around June 21st)

Santa Ana (July 24th-30th)

OTHER EVENTS

Fiesta de la Verdura (Aptil-May)

Fiestas de la Azucarera, which culminate in the Fiesta de Santa Ana

The Fateful Ravine of Peñalén

Planning your Trip to Funes

Do you want to learn more about this place?

History of Funes

In 1076,  King Navarro Sancho Garcés IV was hunting in the nearby ravine of Peñalén in Funes when he was thrown off the cliff by his brother Ramón. The Navarra courts, which had authority in the elections of rulers, refused to crown the brother because of the murder of his brother.  Before power was restored,  the kingdom was invaded by Castilians and soldiers from Aragón, and the Navarrens opted to crown King Sancho Ramírez of Aragón. Because of this, the crowns of Navarra and Aragón were joined together. The story of Sancho Garcés IV was recounted by Lope de Vega in his work, El Príncipe Despeñado (The Prince Thrown Off the Cliff).

Things to Do in Funes

The Hermitage of Santo Cristo del Calvario is an 18th century building that was rebuilt during the 50's of the 20th century, when the garden atrium and the small belfry tower were added. Inside, there is an interesting wood carving of crucified Christ. Two kilometers from the town lies the Hermitage of Our Lady of Portegado.

Formerly, there was another hermitage with the same vocation in the center of the village, but its disuse and abandonment led to the erection of a new one in the second half of the twentieth century. Next to it is the Monument of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, which began to be built in 1959 thanks for volunteer work and money from the village. The stone sculpture is the work of Rafael de la Huerta. Between the Church of Santiago and the monument runs the 'Vía Crucis Monumental' formed by fourteen large crosses made of cast iron.

Coordinates

42° 18′ 50.1″ N, 1° 48′ 10.7″ W

Distances

66 km from Pamplona, 68 km from Logroño, 354 km from Madrid

Parking

Around Sancho IV Street and on both sides of the bridge

Altitude

316 m

Inhabitants

2,494 (2013)

CELEBRATIONS

OTHER EVENTS

ARTISANS AND SHOPS

Other nearby destinations

The Cistercian Order of the Peninsula

Planning your Trip to Fitero

The History of Fitero

In 1140, the Castilian king Alfonso VII initiated the founding of the locality of Niencebas (near Alfaro) of the first Cistercian community of the Iberian Peninsula. They were clerics from the French monastery Scala Dei, in Saint Gaudens. Among them was the monk Raimundo, originally from Toledo, who would be elected abbot of the community. In 1152, the Abbot decided to move his monastery to Tudején. Six years later, the Order of Calatrava was founded.

In 1157, the Treaty of Tudején was created between Alfonso VII of Castile and Ramón Berenguer IV, Prince of Aragon and Count of Barcelona. The territorial limits of the Castilian and Aragonese crowns were set on the site, which became known as  Castellón de Fitero because of its frontier character. The monastery belonged to the Crown of Castile until 1373. The history of Fitero began in 1482, when the monastery tried to repopulate the uninhabited population of Tudején, which would cease to exist from there on. The monastery maintained a religious disposition that didn't disappear until after the disentailment during the nineteenth century, despite the constant attempts of its neighbors to emancipate from the authority of the abbey.

Things to Do in Fitero

Important Information

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 3′ 29″ N, 1° 51′ 26″ W

Distances

99 km from Pamplona, 87 km from Logroño, 313 km from Madrid

Parking

In the Paseo de San Raimundo

Altitude

421 m

Inhabitants

2,123 (2013)

Celebrations

OTHER EVENTS

ARTISANS AND SHOPS

Other nearby destinations

The Land of the Indomitable Noblemen

Plan your stay in Elizondo

Another option is to put on that mountain gear and make a more adventurous plan. Follow the road N-121b to visit Zugarramurdi and its caves. After eating, you can choose between the nearby caves of Ikaburua, the Peñas de Itxusi, or the dolmens of Izpegi. To plan where you’ll eat and stay in the valley of Bidasoa, check out our pages about Eating and Sleeping in Elizondo.Do you want to visit this place?

History of Elizondo

Next to the church

The history of Elizondo began in 1025 with the installation of the Manner of Baztán by the Semen I Ochoaniz and the first documentation of hamlets around its first church. As such, Elizando means “next to the church” in Basque. The town was established as the capital of the valley.

As it was a province that connected southern Navarre (Hegoalde) to the dominions of ultrapuertos (Iparralde), it was a very important strategic holding. It was for this reason that in 1397, Charles III granted land and titles to many of the town’s locals. As they became free men, they reduced their loyalty to the Lord of Baztán.

Problems with Castilians and Basques

In 1512, the valley was occupied by Beamontés troops (Navarran partisans of the Castilian king). Castilians and people of the Basque country alike conquered southern Navarre, establishing a garrison in the Castle of Amaiur, located next to Gaztelua Mountain. From there they controlled the new border between “Castilian” Navarre and the part of the kingdom that remained loyal to the Albret dynasty.

In 1512, 1516, and 1521, the valley and its castle were points of contestation, changing hands many times. In July of 1522, a small garrison of some 200 Agramonteses (Navarrans loyal to the Albrets) was surrounded by an army of Beamonteses and Castilians.

In 1603, a new influential neighboring force was built by the “Nuevas Ordenanzas, Cotos, y Parámetros del Noble Valle y Universidad de Baztán”. Town meetings were established so that everyone could have a say in who would be the elected mayor.

Nobility in Elizondo

The nobility of most of its citizens made it easy for many of them to make a career for themselves in the army or in the bureaucracy of the Hispanic monarchy through the history of Elizondo. Juan de Goyeneche stands out among the others. He founded the first newspaper in Spain, and he was a politician and promoter of the palace and the factory of Nuevo Baztán near Madrid.

The Baztaneses have a reputation as lords that can be seen in literature. In the opera Carmen, written by Próspero Mérimée in 1845, a character says:

“I, sir, was born in Elizondo, in the Valley of Baztán. My name is José Lizarrabengoa. You know my land well enough to gather that my blood is Basque and old Christian. The gift of my name is not elevated by presumption or by whim, but by right of proven nobility. In my home of Elizondo, you can validate my lineage.”

Things to Do in Elizondo

A popular church and palace

Elizondo is nowadays a modern city that still conserves within its streets the historic center with the flavor of the lines of the great families of its past. The current Iglesia de Santiago was built in the 20^th century on top of the old building from the 16^th century. The floods of 1913 left the building so damaged that it was decided that the best thing to do would be to rebuild it completely rather than restore it. It is in the Neogothic style, and it has the typical red ashlar of the area, and two square-floor-plan towers with small domes stretching out of its exterior walls. It also displays beautiful and colorful images on its façade.

The most well-known building of the city, and the best example of the architecture of the nobility in the valley, is the Palacio Arizkunenea. Its construction was ordered in the 17th century by Miguel de Arizcun, the first Marquis of Iturbieta. With a floor plan in the shape of a “U,” it has a façade of recessed stone. A large coat of arms with ornamental motifs of animals, flowers, and horns of abundance is housed within its center. It currently hosts cultural activities. It is located on the street Jaime Urrutia, which is famous for its arcades and arches immortalized by Javier Ciga and the cultural center of Elizando.

The Town Hall, the administrative center of the Valley of Baztán, is another great building to see in Elizondo. It is a Baroque building erected in 1696 and inspired by the Palacio Jaiola de Elvetea. It is a building of reddish and white stones articulated in three floors and crowned by a remarkable wooden eave.

Houses with a lot of history

Another intriguing building is the Casa Istekonea, associated with Pedro de Mendinueta. It has an arched portico on its ground floor and wooden eaves cut by three attic windows. It highlights its crest, with the representative weapons, aligning it with the line of the Palacio de Arizkunenea. On its outskirts, lies the Palacio de Datue, a typical Baztanesa construction that was brought to life by Agustín de Jauregui, viceroy of Perú and governor of Chile in the 18^th century.

In the Casa Puriosenea you can find the Museo Etnográfico Jorge Oteiza, funded by private donations from the valley’s inhabitants. The space is organized into three sections that come together to create a tour through the traditional way of life of Baztán. The second floor also contains a permanent exhibition with the work of the painter Javier Ciga.

As for its cuisine, Elizondo is famous for its Urrakin Egina (literally “made with hazlenuts”), a sweet consisting of pieces of chocolate filled with whole hazelnuts, which will delight any lover of sweets.

Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

43° 8′ 42″ N, 1° 31′ 12″ W

Distances

50 km from Pamplona

64 km from San Sebastián /Donostia

484 km from Madrid

Parking 

You can find parking near the Town Hall.

Altitude

200 m

Population

3258 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

OTHER EVENTS

Baztandarren Biltzarra: Traditional dances and food of the from the Valle del Baztán (the Sunday before July 25th)

Ferias de Primavera y Octubre

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

The Village that Became a Kingdom

Planning Your Trip to Artajona

The History of Artajona

But the history of Artajona did not properly begin until the 11^th century, resulting from multiple fights among clerics. In 1070, Sancho Garcés IV of Peñalén, the king of Pamplona, gifted the region to the nobleman García Aznárez as a form of payment for his services, which in turn ceded the Iglesia de Santa María to the Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña. In 1804, the bishop of Pamplona, the Frenchman Pedro de Rodez, commissioned to repopulate the area and build a church for the clergy of the monastery of Saint Sernin de Toulouse. The new priory was granted land surrounding the region and the right to collect tithings from the inhabitants, which was bad news for the priests of the neighboring temple of Santa María. This situation triggered lawsuits with the monks of San Juan de la Peña. It was the French who finally won, and in 1126, they consecrated the church/fortress to San Saturnino. The construction additionally came to reinforce the imposing ramparts built around 1085, known as “El Cerco.”

This community, with its extensive land holdings, even became its own kingdom for a time. In 1144, the king García Ramírez of Pamplona married Doña Urraca la Asturiana, the illegitimate daughter of the king Alfonso VII of León, who gave him Artajona and its surrounding lands (including Olite, Miranda de Arga, Cabror, and Arga) as part of her dowry. García Ramírez died seven years later, and he was succeeded by his widow and her half-brother, Sancho III of Castilla. The mere existence of a foreign kingdom in the middle of his territories threatened the new king, Sancho the Wise, of Navarra, so he and his army attacked in 1156. The garrison resisted, but two years later, after much negotiation, Artajona was reincorporated into the kingdom of Navarra.

During the Guerras de Bandos in the 15^th century, the inhabitants conscripted to the Argamontés side, enduring three attacks at the hands of the Count of Lerín, the head of the Beamonteses, their enemies. Finally, at the beginning of the 16^th century, it was given to this family, whose allegiance to the Castillians is represented by its walls.

Artejona did not suffer any significant damage during the wars in the 19^th and 20^th centuries, although the locals would become famous during the civil war, on September 13^th, 1936, with the program “Los Cuarenta de Artajona” (which comprised the third company of the Tercio de Lácar). Before mounting the attack on San Sebastián, captain Ignacio Ureta Zabala, at the head of a Carlist military group, marched through the gates of Artajona, much to the surprise of its residents. Only one person was injured. He was caught in the revolving door to the building of the Diputación de Guipúzcoa.

Things To Do In Artajona

San Saturnino Church is another structure that forms part of Artajona’s skyline. Its building was erected in the 13^th century over the site of a former Romanesque temple, and it was built to be a fortress; there was a prison in its towers, and you had to cross a drawbridge to get to its highest parts. Its western side is the only one that does not comply with the defensive style. Distinguished by its arched entrance and the gallery that is arranged on both sides, initially designed to contain images of the apostles. The painted Gothic walls that are preserved inside are also particularly interesting. They are archaic and inspired by the Roman Byzantine style, and they were built toward the 1300s by the “Master of Artajona.” 40 years later, he added a frieze dedicated to San Saturnino in the presbytery. The walls of the Juicio Final and those of the Apostles, previously in the main altar, are now kept in the Museo de Navarra.

Downhill, outside the walls, we find the San Pedro Church, a Gothic building from the 13^th century, whose interior was renovated in the Neoclassical style during the 19^th century. Inside the church stands its main altarpiece with a great many colorful sculptures. The Basílica de Nuestro Señora de Jerusalén, from the 18^th century, houses a famous Romanesque carving of the Virgen de Jerusalén, clad with enameled copper. Legend has it that it was brought to Artajona from the Holy Land by a crusader native to the village.

Another one of the patrimonial attractions that you have to visit in Artajona are the four bells that are preserved here; two of them are Roman. You can see them ring, but only on special occasions. They are said to be the only bells in the world that are banded backwards.Four kilometers from the city (by the NA-6020 road), you will encounter, high in the Dólmenes del Portillo de Enériz, and 800 meters away from these, the Mina de Farangortea. The first part has two well defined sections: the burial chamber with a corridor. The mine follows the same structure but with smaller dimensions. Both graves, the southernmost in the province, are two of the most fascinating examples of Megalithic culture in Navarra.

The Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 35′ 28″N, 1° 45′ 52″ W

Distances

31 km from Pamplona

75 km from Logroño

154 km from Zaragoza

382 km from Madrid

Altitude

427 m

Population

1,721 (as of 2013)

FESTIVALS

Virgen de Jerusalén (September 7th - 15th)

San Saturnino (November 29th)

OTHER EVENTS

Carrera de Layas (November 29th)

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

The small town in the shadows of a big hill

Plan your stay in Monreal

Although the first written references to Monreal happened during the 12th century, it is thought that an important settlement existed in its place before that. You can still see the remains of the castle, which originally was a remodeled defense fortress to serve as the residence of the Navarran royalty. In 1149, García Ramírez awarded the town with the regional code of laws of Estella in an attempt to increase the importance of Monreal, whose population was growing because of the arrival of new inhabitants from the south of France. These new privileges allowed the town to achieve many activities, especially commerce, which made Monreal an important passing and stopping point in the Way to Santiago. It is known that the town already had a hospital made for pilgrims in the 12th century. The strategic, political, and economic importance of the town is reflected in many facts, like its seat and vote in the Navarran government.

Upon entering the 15th century, Monreal's support of Juan II against his son Carlos de Viana brought new privileges to the villa, one of which was the celebration of a weekly market, which aided in the growth of its arks. Years later, in 1521, the conquest of Navarra by the Castilian troops marks the decline of Monreal, dramatized by the demolition if its castle. Despite the progressive disappearance of its political and economic relevance, the villa was able to maintain its position as a strategic point. Today, despite the differences, Monreal continues to be one of themes popular stops in the final stretches of the Aragonese Way to Santiago.

Always protected by La Higa, Monreal can be considered a small but pleasant historical site with cobble stone streets and houses that conserve the old houses that reflect its rich past. Within its main monuments, you will find the Iglesia de la Natividad, the only surviving temple this town had. Despite the fact that its origins are Roman, the current architecture of the building is the result of a series of remodels that have almost eliminated all remnants of its original construction. Although it saves a certain element of gothic style, the current church is the result of reforms during the 18th century. The altarpiece inside stands out because of its interesting sculptural aspects. The other important monument in this town is the Medieval Bridge. Constructed employing a gothic style, its role was important in the town, as it was the main access point to the pilgrims that arrived at Monreal on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Currently, this bridge can be found in perfect condition and is completely accessible. On the outskirts of Monreal, you will see the San Blas transept, built in the 16th century.  

On the hill near the town, you can visit the ruins of the Monreal Castle, which is composed of the remains of its original tower. At almost 1,289 meters of altitude and occupying part of the peak of La Higa, you will find the Saint Barbara Chapel. This small construction is the only one that still exists of the eight that used to be located in Monreal. Its current location is not the original one because the chapel needed to be moves a couple meters due to the radio and television constructions that have been in the same place since 1977. Every first of May, Saint Barbara is the site of a popular pilgrimage in which many of the neighboring towns participate.

Must-see...

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 42′ 17″ N, 1° 30′ 24″ W

Distances

Pamplona 18 km, Jaca 93 km, Madrid 393 km

Altitude

545 m

Inhabitants

470 (2015)

Other nearby destinations

The Capital of the Carlists

Plan your visit to Estella – Lizarra

History of Estella – Lizarra

The place made its entrance into history when the Muslims were reconquered by Sancho Garcés I in the year 904. In 1090 Sancho Ramirez founded a borough of francs serving European pilgrims on their way to Santiago. The pilgrims must have been satisfied with the service judging from Aymeric Picaud who wrote in 1140 in his Liber peregrinationis : “Estella is a city of good bread, excellent wine, much meat and fish and all kinds of happiness.”

Since the earlier days, in the neighborhood of San Pedro de Rua was a Jewish quarter. This Jewish quarter was the 3rd most important place in Navarre. In fact, the people of Estella ( ” estelleses ”) are called Jews in that region due to their abundant population during the Middle Ages. On the other side of the river, there was a celebration of a market on the day of San Miguel. This triggered the formation of the village of San Miguel. Sancho VI the Wise founded the village of San Juan in 1187 for people of various social classes. Minorities lived there in excellent conditions: such as the rights to French, putting Their living condition of the Navarre above those Christian servants and of the higher class Jews. This contributed to the murders of Jews on June 3, 1328.

In 1512 was the invasion of the Castilian army of the Duke of Alba. The population surrendered, but Juan Castillo -defended resisted by Velaz of Medrano Until the a portion of the Estella people Belonging to the party revolted Agramontes Against the Spaniards and Expelled them from the city. But a few weeks later the people of Estella who supported the beamonteses (and the Castilians) opened their doors to the co-religionists, who returned to take over the castle on October 31. King Ferdinand Remained an important garrison and commanded fortifying the town in 1520, which did not prevent the Agramontes people from rioting in 1521 and 1547.

On November 14, 1833 the main military troops that supported the dynastic rights of Carlos de Borbon met in Estella, appointing General Thomas Zumalacárregui as the commander of the insurrection. It was a Carlist stronghold until the summer of 1839, when General Maroto made a pact, the Embrace of Vergara , a few months after shooting the generals who refused to negotiate in Estella .

At the start of the last Carlist War in 1872, the government garrison and liberalist volunteers controlled the fort of San Francisco until they were besieged by the Carlist General Dorregaray in July the following year. After a dramatic siege they were rescued by the army, but the Carlists reclaimed them a few weeks after getting attacked. For two and a half years in Estella, the Carlist emergenct bureaucracy of the State was organized. This is where the Officials for War, Justice and Finance, and Foreign Affairs reside.

On June 14, 1931 many mayors of the Carlist, Basque nationalist and rightist parties, who were in support of a Statute of Autonomy met in Estella. Their drafts were prepared by experts from the Society of Basque Studies ( Eusko Ikaskuntza ). The initiative did not materialize, but planted an important precedent in the history of Estella.

Estella was Governed in 1936 by a Basque nationalist higher (Fortunato Aguirre) and the government of Madrid Warned of the details of the uprising. On July 16 the General Batet (sent by the government) went to the Monastery of General Irache  to meet with Mola (head of the conspirators). The latter solemnly gave his word of honor that he was loyal to the Second Republic. Two days later came the revolt, Both Batet and the General would be shot by the rebels.

What to see in Estella – Lizarra

The Cistercian Church of San Pedro de la Rua is a Gothic building of three ships With three apses modeling the late twelfth century Romanesque style. Inside there are murals and chapels of later works: such as the Baroque dome plasterwork in the Chapel of San Andrés (1596). From the epistle you enter the cloister, Which has the north Pandas (galleries) With scenes of saints and the life of Christ and the west gallery with plant motifs and four columns entwined in center the arches (also seen in the Burgo de Osma and Santo Domingo de Silos ). The rest were lost in 1572 coinciding With the demolition of the castle located above. Each section consists of nine arches, supported by columns paired with beautiful capitals. The main entrance has Cistercians and Moorish influences like the lobed arch. The rectangular tower with arrow slits gives an appearance of a church-fortress.

The Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra or Palace of the Dukes of Granada de Ega, from the late twelfth century, is the only example of Romanesque civilization remaining in Estella and the rest of the Navarre community. There, on the left side of the facade to the street of San Nicolas, is the famous Capital narrating the fight between Roldán and Ferragut. At the southern end of this street is the Puerta de Castilla, the only one surviving are the walls. The Palace houses are dedicated to Gustavo Maeztu Museum, a painter of Generation of ’98 . Located next door is the Tourist Office.

In cavalcade of Tabernacles (named after the old Gothic arches giving Jacobean entrance to shops and hostelries) is the House of Culture Fray Diego , a plateresco sixteenth century palace with a beautiful courtyard. Later the Governor ‘s Palace , buildt in 1613, that has been attached to an new building, includes the Museum Carlismo guarding the collections donated by the Carlist Party.

On Tanners Street preceding the Prison Bridge or San Agustín, you must stop at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This building is from the Romanesque XIII century. The cover of twelve archivolts on the street of the pilgrims is from the fourteenth century and is decorated with statues of the apostles and Santiago Peregrino. The Tanners street leads to the Jewish quarter. There you will find the Gothic convent of Santo Domingo founded in 1259, focus of academic and cultural activity. Next to it stands today’s Church of Santa María Jus del Castillo founded in 1145 and built on the ancient synagogue. Its name refers to the castle of Zalatambor, of which some remains are preserved. It combines Romanesque apses along with Gothic and Baroque façades inside. After years of being closed, it has finally been opened as suitable for the Navarra Romanesque Exhibition.

Upon crossing the Jail Bridge you will arrive at the Church of San Miguel (XII-XIV centuries). The most remarkable aspect is the northern front, with a strong Romanesque sculpture of Cluniac influence. The head of the temple is composed of three apses of the Romanesque style, with the central pointed arch. The altarpiece of Santa Elena is composed of 13 sections of Gothic painting. The altarpiece is done in the baroque style.

On the street Ruiz de Alda, neighboring the church is the Renaissance Palace Eguía (XVI) and the stately mansion of the Ruiz de Alda (XVII), which has a splendid baroque staircase.

The meeting point for the neighbors is the Plaza de los Fueros , surrounded by beautiful buildings (two of them belonging to the eighteenth century) and the Church of San Juan Bautista with its neoclassical facade of the primitive 13th century construction, like the Virgin of the Torches. The Pierres Ricart (1562) inside the altarpiece is particularly noteworthy.

Outside the city lies the Basilica of Our Lady of Puy, a patron saint dedicated to the city, the pilgrimage place, and the place where several miraculous events occured. The present basilica is a 1951 building that retains the old porch.  The image of the Virgin of Puy under a canopy shaped eight – pointed star which was used by Charles VII in the First Carlist War is also well preserved.

A 11 km of Estella, in the valley of Allín, lies the Museum of Truffle that features content panels, interactive multimedia and audiovisual projections and life cycle search, display cases, a children ‘s interactive post, and different little stores.

Must-see...

Practical Data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42º 44’ 05’’N, 3º24’ 50’’W

Distances

Burgos 64 km, Bilbao 89 km, Madrid 311 km

Home of the Marvelous Foz de Lumbier

Planning Your Trip to Lumbier

History of Lumbier

In 924, Abd Al Rahman III attacked King Sancho Garcés of Navarre and seized the Pyrenees Valley, which he occupied only temporarily, as there are accounts that during the second half of the 10^th century, Lumbier was a retreat for Queen AndregotoGalíndez, the wife of García Sánchez I. At the beginning of the following century, Sancho VII the Strong granted the town fueros.

As with the rest of the towns near the Pyrenees Valley, in 1396 Charles III of Navarre granted hidalguía (nobility) to all its townspeople.

The inhabitants of Lumbier supported the Beaumont band, which backed the Prince of Viana’s claim to the throne. On August 16, 1512, once the Castilian, Basque, and Navarrese troops in the service of King Ferdinand reached the valley, the town surrendered without a fight, and as a result it was allowed to maintain its customs and privileges.

When the Peninsular War began, the valley was occupied by Napoleon’s troops until being liberated by Espoz y Mina’s troops in 1812. Upon encountering a group of afrancesados (Spanish supporters of the French) from Madrid—known as “gatos” (cats)—who were attempting to pass through the valley to get to France, the peasants of Lumbier hanged them without a trial and kept their belongings for themselves. This incident gave rise to the moniker “ahorcagatos” which is sometimes used to refer to the people of Lumbier.

Things to Do in Lumbier

In the historical quarter you’ll find the Church of the Assumption, a 14^th-century building which has a noteworthy tower with a square-shaped floor plan. Inside are two altarpieces in the mannerist style by local sculptor Juan de la Hera as well as a Gothic crucifix.

Lumbier Town Hall is the oldest town hall in Navarre. It dates from the late 15^th century and is a two-floor building with a porch with two arches on the ground floor. It was rebuilt in 1870 after a fire. Other examples of civil architecture in the city include the Antillón House, a Baroque building whose façade features an alabaster coat of arms in the Rococo style. It also has notable balconies. The Marquis of Jaureguizar’s Mansion, which was begun in the 15^th century and later renovated in the 18^th century, has a door framed by two columns and the family’s coat of arms.

One of the town’s main tourist attractions is its natural environment, especially the Foz de Lumbier, a narrow, deep geological formation produced by the continuous erosion of the Irati River. One kilometer long and 120 meters deep, the Foz can be explored by foot following a path along the old route of El Irati, the first electric railroad on the Iberian Peninsula, which covered the line between Sangüesa and Pamplona. At the entrance of the Foz there’s a parking lot and a recreation area for visitors. On the way back to Lumbier, you can visit the Foz Interpretation Center, a space where you can delve into the nature and history of Lumbier, with a special emphasis on the Foz.

Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 39′ 15″ N, 1° 18′ 20″ W

Distances

Pamplona 38 km, Logroño 120 km, Madrid 430 km

Parking

Easily accessible in the town

Altitude

467 m

Population

1379 (2013)

FESTIVALS

OTHER EVENTS

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

The Capital of the Kingdom and Contemporary Art

Plan your stay in Pamplona

Religion and Pamplona go together many times. Santa María's Cathedral is a Romanesque construction that was restored as a Gothic building in the 14th and 15th centuries, and the façade which is is neoclassicist. The Diocesan Museum is also interesting because of it sacred collection.  San Cernín Church was the center of the old Pamplona. It is named after the patron saint of the city, St. Cernín. Do not miss San Nicolás Church either, 12th century, whose external aspect reminds us of its defensive role in the past. San Lorenzo church keeps the image of the saint that is taken out in the procession during San Fermin Festival.

Regarding non-religious sights, the City Hall was built in 1423. We also need to highlight Navarra Palace from the 19th century, the Bullring and the Tribute to Ernest Hemingway. Saraste Promenade is one of the main streets of the city, linking the old town with wider parts of the city. Here you can see several scuptures of Navarre kings. However, the most symbolic monument is the Monument to the Fueros (19th century), which has a female figure holding on her left hand a representation of the regional laws of Navarre. On the base of the sculpture we have allegories devoted to Work, Independence, Peace, Justice and History. This promenade finishes in the Citadel, an impressive military fortress built in 1571. It houses several exhibition rooms.

Pamplona has numerous and important museums and art and culture centers. To get to know better the interesting history of Pamplona and the Navarre Kingdom, we highl recommend you visiting the Navarre Museum. This center teaches you about the heritage sites of the city since Prehistory to the contemporary era. Among the pieces to be noticed, you should not miss the famous Arqueta de Leyre, a small coffin keeping several hunting weapons. Another interesting thing to do in Pamplona is visiting its Planetarium, which is the main scientific center for exhibitions. You will also love the Baluarte Auditorium and the Huarte Contemporary Art Center.

In the outskirts of the city we find the university campus and the University Museum (which has more than 14 000 photos): do not miss the legacy of one of the best photographers from the 20th century, José Ortiz Echagüe. Finally, you should not miss Jorge Oteiza Foundation: a collection of 1650 sculptures. It is the best place to enjoy the most modern museography.

Must-see...

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 49′ 6″ N, 1° 38′ 39″ W

Distances

San Sebastián – Donostia 81 km, Logroño 84 km, Madrid 449 km

Altitude

449 m

Inhabitants

196 955 (2013)

Other nearby destinations

The famous roadside villa

Plan your stay in Puente la Reina

In the 11th century, the Navarran Queen decided to build a bridge over the Arga river to facilitate the passage of pilgrims in their Camino de Santiago de Compostela. Thus, a population known as Puente la Reina or Puente del Arga began to grow. At the end of the 11th century, King Alfonso I the Battler granted the Carta Puebla to the Franks settled there, giving them privileged status in Estella in 1122. The continual flux of pilgrims and merchants provided economic and population growth throughout this area.

During the Carlist Wars, Puente la Reina was a persistent loyal to the Carlist cause. The ruins of the fortifications from 1835 have been preserved in some places. This time also birthed the curious legend of the Txori (“bird” in Basque Country), that is still remembered and told today. In 1874, during the last Carlist war, Carlos VII established his headquarters at the Palacio del Patrimonial.

Puente la Reina remains to this day one of the main sites of the Camino de Santiago as it brings the French and the Aragonese paths together.

Another main tourist attraction in Puente la Reina is the main route out of the town: the bridge that is crossed each year by thousands of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Constructed during the 11th century, it is 110 meters long and four meters wide, supported by five pillars that in turn support six arches. It used to have turrets at both ends and numerous chapels along the path. It is one of the best examples of a Romanesque bridge in Europe.

Puente la Reina is structured around calle Mayor, where you can see numerous, noble buildings full of arts and treasures. The Iglesia de Santiago (church of Santiago), created in the 12th century and reformed in the 16th century, houses an interesting image of Santiago Beltza ("black" in Basque language) that receives its name because of the soot covering it at the time of its discovery. You can also find various china vases from the Ming Dynasty. In the Iglesia del Crucifijo (Church or the crucifix), from the end of the 12th century, you can see an incredible, Romanesque sculpture of the crucified Christ with his arms out known as the "goose leg".

Iglesia de San Pedro (San Pedro church), is a 14th century building containing several Baroque altarpieces and the famous Virgen de Puy who is featured in the famous Txori legend. Outside of the city, you can find the Comendadoras Convent of Sancti Spiritus, a set completely renovated in the 18th century after the demolition of the previous building.

The Casa del Vínculo is another beautiful building from the 17th century that highlights Renaissance architecture. Over the years, it has been used as a barn and a prison. Today it puts on exhibitions and serves as the city's tourist center.

On the Puente la Reina, you can see the Monument to the Pilgrim which marks the point at which the French and Aragonese paths cross and welcomes the pilgrims in transit.

A few kilometres from Puente la Reina you can find the Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate, a temple very characteristic of Navarra Roman style. Constructed during the second half of the 7th century, it is peculiar in that it is designed as an octogonal building with a circular gallery of thirty-three arches with decorated capitals. It is believed that this building may have traditionally been used as a hospice for pilgrims.

Must-see...

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

42° 40′ 0″ N, 1° 49′ 0″ W

Distances

Pamplona 22 km, Madrid 391 km, Logroño 64 km

Altitude

344 m

Inhabitants

2787 (2013)

Other nearby destinations

The first stop in the Camino

Plan your stay in Roncesvalles

Since prehistoric times, Roncesvalles has been gateway to the Iberian Peninsula from France. There, Romans carved a route linking Bordeaux with Astorga and the Celts, Goths and Moors travelled the same way centuries later.

In 778, to lift the siege of Saraqustra (Zaragoza), the mighty French army of Charlemagne undertook the way back by the same route they had entered months earlier. Passing through Roncesvalles its rear was attacked and massacred by surrounding tribes and, in the hollow of Luzaide-Valcarlos, fought Roldán, the first knight of Charlemagne. The battle of Roncesvalles was immortalized in the late eleventh century in the Chanson de Roland, an epic poem of unknown author that has left the iconic image of the gentleman playing his olifante and throwing his sword Durandal the river to prevent it from falling into the hands of their enemies.

In the ninth century, King Sancho Garcés Roncesvalles consolidates as the main gateway of the Camino de Santiago in Spain. With the massive influx of walkers a primitive population center around the Pilgrim Hospital, promoted in 1127 by the Bishop of Pamplona and work erected by Alfonso I Fighting begins to develop. Given its importance, since its heyday (XIII century) it has been under papal protection. The town of Roncesvalles grows thanks to its strategic location and the fame of his hospital.Do you want to visit this place?

What to see in Roncesvalles

Old view of the Collegiate of St. Mary

Wars and confiscations in the nineteenth century led to economic crises, until at last it began to recover in the mid-twentieth century thanks to the Camino de Santiago, when a new rise of the Jacobean route relocalized the population in its rightful place.

The main building of Roncesvalles is the collegiate church of Santa Maria built in the early thirteenth century as a mausoleum by Sancho VII the Fort. After long periods of abandonment it was rebuilt in the seventeenth century under its present appearance. Attached to the cloister is the Chapel of St. Augustine, in whose center lies the tomb of Sancho VII with its imposing dating from the thirteenth century headstone statue. At the gate of the chapel can be seen the chains, according to tradition, the king of Navarre Store snatched the emir Miramolin after the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa and forming part of the shield of Navarre.

The Sancti Spiritus to the Chapel, also known as Silo of Charlemagne, was originally intended for the burial that the Frankish king designed for Roldan. The current building dates from the twelfth century, which makes it the oldest in the town, and its structure highlights its roof slabs of limestone pyramid topped by a small dome Florentine cross. Attached to it is the Church of Santiago, a XIII century building completely refurbished during the twentieth century retaining its original, austere and simple Gothic look. The small bell volley shot comes from the old Ermita de San Salvador de Ibañeta, which centuries ago helped guide the pilgrims to the town. Inside is an interesting sculpture of St. James the Apostle.

Nothing remains of the original building of the famous Pilgrim Hospital of Roncesvalles. The present is the result of a complete renovation that during the seventeenth century, gave it its current neoclassical appearance. It is a large complex horizontal structure with a classicist access as pointed arch, with columns on their sides and triangular pediment and his effort.

On one side of the Priory House are housed two of the most interesting spaces of Roncesvalles. The first is its famous Library, which houses more than fifteen thousand volumes of various disciplines including prevail Theology and Philosophy. Some of the most valuable volumes are in another space: the Museum of Roncesvalles. This contains a lot of artworks divided between painting, sculpture, jewelry and tapestries that represent a comprehensive overview of local history. Chess stand Charlemagne, a reliquary known by his given name available checkerboard, and a triptych of the Crucifixion the sixteenth century belonging to the Flemish school.

Must-see...

Practical data

PRACTICAL DATA

Coordinates

43° 0′ 0″ N, 1° 19′ 0″ W

Distances

Pamplona 47 km, San Sebastián – Donostia 127 km, Madrid 449 km

Altitude

923 m

Habitantes

26 (2013)

Other nearby destinations

“The City That Never Failed”

Planning Your Visit to Sangüesa

There are numerous options to expand the getaway. For example, hiking enthusiasts have at their disposal the park of the Foz de Lumbier and Arbayún. If you prefer bird watching nearby, there is the Pitillas lagoon. Regarding the religious heritage, there are two important places of pilgrimage: the castle of Javier and the Monastery of Leyre. In Aragon awaits the medieval Sos del Rey Católico. The gastronomic and hotel offer is gathered in the pages about sleeping and eating in Sangüesa.Want to Get to Know This Place?

History of Sangüesa

In 1090, King Sancho Ramírez granted Sangüesa the Fuero of Jaca in order to stimulate the repopulation of the city. As a result, it became an important stop along the Camino de Santiago. Due to the prosperity generated by this development and the physical impossibility of expanding the city, in 1222 Alfonso I the Warrior ordered that the city be moved to its present-day location. Later, when Theobald II divided Navarre into merindades, Sangüesa was made the capital of one of these new administrative divisions.

Ever since then, the history of Sangüesa has remained connected to its role in the Camino de Santiago as well as its location on the border between the kingdoms of Navarre and Aragon. In 1503, King Henry II, the last king of Navarre before its annexation by the Crown of Castile, was born in Sangüesa; under his reign it obtained the title of city.

Sangüesa was once again ravaged during the Peninsular War, in which it was the stage of several battles involving the troops of Espoz y Mina. Today Sangüesa is a tourist destination whose main attractions are its wealth of monuments and its status as a stop on the Camino de Santiago.

Things to Do in Sangüesa

The city’s crown jewel is the Church of Santa María la Real, a Romanesque building with Gothic additions dating from the 13^th and 14^th centuries. Its façade is one of the most significant examples of the Navarrese Romanesque style. The church’s magnificent décor includes religious artwork and several reliefs of people and animals. In 1131, Alfonso I the Warrior donated the church to the Order of Saint John. It has been declared a National Monument.

El Salvador Church was built in the 13^th century. Its façade depicts Judgment Day and its portico was built in the 16^th century to protect the façade. Built in the Romanesque style, with later Gothic additions, the Church of Santiago is embedded in a section of the old defensive wall that surrounded the city. It has the appearance of a fortress, and its large tower with battlements stands out. Inside the church houses a 14^th-century stone sculpture of Saint James the Pilgrim.

When it comes to civil architecture, the Town Hall was built in 1570, making it one of the oldest city halls in all of Navarre. The ground floor has a colonnade with diminished arches. Another one of the city’s most important buildings is the Ongay-Vallesantoro Mansion, a 17^th-century Baroque building whose ground floor is made of stone, the rest of the building being made of brick. It is notable for its main façade, featuring a family crest and indiano elements attributed to a former viceroy of New Spain. Its wooden roof has several corbels in the shape of animals.

Another important building is the Palace of the Prince of Viana, built in the 13^th century as a royal residence. The palace is framed by two towers and throughout history it has hosted several meetings of the royal court. The Íñiguez Abarca Mansion, in the Renaissance style, has a notable gallery of arches on the top floor and a wooden roof. Finally, the Sebastianes Mansion is another of Sangüesa’s most significant monuments. It once belonged to a wealthy family of merchants and royal moneylenders. In 1503, it was the birthplace of Henry II of Albret, Prince of Viana and the last king of Navarre.

Over the Aragon River you can see the famous Iron Bridge (Puente de Hierro), which in 1820 replaced an old medieval bridge dating from the 11^th century.

Essentials

Practical Information

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Coordinates

42° 34′ 40″ N, 1° 16′ 57″ W

Distances

Pamplona 46 km, Logroño 128 km, Madrid 414 km

Parking

On Paseo Cantolagua, Calle La Celada, and Calle Magdalena, as well as next to the Church of Santa María la Real

Altitude

404 m

Population

5080  (2013)

FESTIVALS

San Sebastián (January 20), San Patronales (September 11-17)

OTHER EVENTS

Carnival, Feast of Corpus Christi

LOCAL PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS

Elena Carlos: handmade bags, clothing, and accessories. Miel Baigorri: homemade honey. Nicolas Navallas: brass and lead

Where to sleep in Javier

At bedtime in Javier, the accommodation offer is made up of a few services that can be complemented with the existing infrastructure in the localities of its direct surroundings. The Xabier Hotel is one of the best rated establishments in the town; It has 45 fully equipped rooms decorated in classic style and quality services such as restaurant, private parking and lounges for celebrations and private meetings. The hotel El Mesón is a family establishment with a long professional tour that offers its clients a total of eight rooms perfectly conditioned and within walking distance of the main heritage attractions of the town. Other amenities include a restaurant and free parking.

Where to eat in Javier

Although there are not many places to eat in Javier, local establishments give a solid and attractive offer. The restaurant El Mesón is a very popular place thanks to its cuisine, which prepares traditional dishes from these lands with ingredients of native origin. It has high capacity halls, so it is easy to find a free table in them or celebrate there wedding banquets, communions and other similar events, occasions for which the restaurant offers special menus. In his bar, also, an ample letter of skewers is offered. The hotel Xabier also has a very recommendable restaurant to eat in Javier. Their cuisine is homemade, of strong local essence and made with fresh products. It has a menu of the day and a menu, as well as special offers for large groups and special celebrations, both family and business, thanks to the large capacity of its lounges.

Finally, we leave you with a list of accommodations of where to sleep in Javier. Come visit Spain!!! Vente a España!!!