The largest Western movie cemetery in the world is actually in Spain (but not in Almería)
Pilgrims walking the Santiago Way are not the only ones to be seen in the surroundings of the village of Santo Domingo de Silos in the province of Burgos. In fact, quite a few cinema buffs and other inquisitive types make another kind of pilgrimage to this area.
Midway between Santo Domingo de Silos, famous for its monastery, and the village of Contreras, lies an enclave more similar to Arizona than Castile, where one of the most emblematic movie scenes of the 'Spaghetti Western' genre was filmed.
A cinematic cemetery
5,000 wooden crosses aligned in concentric circles jut out of the rocky terrain. This is the place known as Sad Hill, the scene where Clint Eastwood, Lee Van Cleef and Eli Wallach fought their final duel in the 1966 film The Good, the Bad and the Ugly.
Whilst most people might associate the Spaghetti Westerns filmed in Spain with the region of Almería, the genius of Sergio Leone has left behind its indelible mark here among the oak trees and mountains of Burgos.
A legendary film set
The Italian architect and cinema set designer, Carlo Simi, was charged with designing the film’s iconic final duel scene. The placing of the wooden crosses and the creation of desert-like vegetation was actually carried out by Spanish soldiers. The result was an on-screen atmosphere blending both tension and solemnity.
Magical hallowed ground without the departed
The oddest thing about Sad Hill Cemetery is that none of the tombs contain human remains, as far as we know. Despite being a fictional landscape of wood and stone, the empty graves only heighten the mysterious aura.
After the film’s production, the graveyard remained abandoned for nearly 50 years until the Cultural Association of Sad Hill started a crowdfunding campaign in 2015 to mark it as an official movie site of Spain.
The now permanently placed crosses form a peculiar circular labyrinth providing captivating views. Standing on the same central stone where Clint Eastwood and Van Cleef stood staring each other down, it is hard not to hear Ennio Morricone’s memorable melody from the film score. In fact, quite a few visitors often listen to the film’s music on their electronic devices.
An emotive and free visit
A visit to Sad Hill Cemetery is free of charge and no reservation is required. The most striking moments are either at dawn or dusk, when the crosses are bathed in golden light casting long shadows onto the terrain.
To reach Sad Hill, take the forest walking trail from the village of Santo Domingo de Silos, crossing the Arlanza River to the trail leading to the cemetery. The route is marked with signs and easily found.
You can also read this article in Spanish.
Follow us on Facebook to discover more fascinating places in Spain!